Subject: SMML VOL 997 Date: Mon, 21 Aug 2000 23:32:46 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Awnings 2: Re: Judging criteria "straying" 3: Re: Anchors and documentation 4: Heller Hood Question 5: Awnings/Canvas 6: Re: I"p"MS 7: Figurehead identification 8: Re: WW 1 fiction and Savo 9: WW2 LCMs 10: LCM 11: Awnings 12: Looking for plans on EDF Space Battleship Yamato 13: Review of Planet Models Type IID 14: Re: Planet Models Subs -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Web site updates 2: INR/Opsail 2000 site -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Bruce Burden Subject: Re: Awnings >> I read an article recently (don't remember the author) and it appeared that the author had made some awnings using tissue paper saturated with thinned white glue. Did I read the article correctly . . . is there a technique for making awnings in this manner? << Armor builders use tissue paper and white glue & water to represent canvas tilts/covers quite often. Simply thin the white glue to the point you can spritz it (30 - 70 mixture or so), position the tissue paper (do NOT use toilet tissue/paper, it is designed to disintegrate in water!) and gently spitz the paper with the glue mixture. Don't go to heavily initially, since you can tear the paper with the weight of the water and glue. If you can support the tissue paper, this will help reduce the sags you get. A very light series of spritzes will help reduce any sags as well. If you are using double layer tissue paper, you probably just want to use a single layer of paper. You can also visit a stationary store (a good one!) and look at their linen samples. Linen stationary can be thinner/finer weave than tissue paper, and is generally available in more colors than tisue paper. You can also look into using the covering tissue the flying aircraft boys use, but be warned - that paper is designed to shrink when wet. It could very well collapse your supports... Bruce -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: James Corley Subject: Re: Judging criteria "straying" Rusty sez: >> As for the dig about I"p"MS, we would be seeing far fewer quality and diverse entries (no resin, multimedia, metal or wood models would be allowed) in the ship categories if not for the rule change that allow these entries (no metal or resin figures either). << from F&W Standard Desk Dictionary: Plastic (plas'tik) adj. 1. giving form or fashion to matter 2. capable of being formed or molded; pliable 3. pertaining to modeling or molding 4. Surg. Efficacious in recreating or remodeling injured or destroyed parts n. 1. Any substance or material that may be molded 2. Chem. One of a large class of synthetic organic compounds capable of being molded, extruded, cast or otherwise fabricated into various shapes, or of being drawn into filaments for textiles. Mold n. - 1. a form or matrix that gives a particular shape to anything in a fluid or plastic condition (others follow but this is the only mentioning plastic) Are you now specifying which plastics are allowed? Resin is plastic, by definition and chemically. The old rule did not rule out any of the above items, rather it said the majority of the model had to be plastic. In fact resin conversions and photoetch have been part of the IPMS Nationals for 25 years or so. Which definition here they are talking about was obviously the second set (noun), but does that limit it to styrene? I would, if inclined to limit materials used, choose to draw the line at a technological point - "modern" materials and techniques only. This would eliminate the wood models that have no plastics at all ... after all wood ship models have been around forever or at least as far back as ancient Egypt. Resin and white metal (not really lead anymore) would fit under the "Any substance or material that may be molded" part of the dictionary. Wood cannot be molded as defined above, it can be shaped, carved, cut, etc., but it cannot be made liquid or plastic! I suppose if the wood were particle board it would count (liquid and a synthetic organic compound ... wood + glue) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Anchors and documentation >> A question here - was it supposed to have anchors? No, that is not a silly question. Subs (US, anyway) in WWII removed their anchors (see Clear The Bridge by O'Kane as he discusses this) when going to combat zones. << To my knowledge (remember, I'm not a naval architect), all US SURFACE ships used anchors except for some very small ones. Otherwise holding them in one place away from a dock or port would be impossible. How did these submarines secure themselves in place when in an undeveloped area (no dock or port)? They had to have some kind of anchor. >> Other ships, like the Perry FFG class have anchors which are hidden in an internal "well". I know this one personally as my USS Boone (FFG-28) took Best In Category and Best Ship in the Region 10 meet today - the head judge told me afterwards that they were nervous as they didn't see any anchor. Fortunately, I had included pictures which demonstrated a Perry's anchors cannot be seen. << You just made my case here. You provided documentation to justify the lack of a visible anchor. That saved you from being penalized by the judges who may not have been sure of the anchor situation. Rusty White IPMS/USA Head ship judge "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Frank Allen Subject: Heller Hood Question Hi Everyone Frank Allen of "Battle Cruiser Hood" here. I was recently contacted by a gentleman who has an old Heller 1/400 Hood kit that he would like to finish...unfortunately, he has lost the assembly instructions! Can any of you help him out? Please let me know, and I will put you in touch. Thanks Frank http://hmshood.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Rod Dauteuil" Subject: Awnings/Canvas Hello, Regarding scale awnings, I usually make a small frame out of the thinnest Evergreen plastic strips, then glue (with model glue) tissue paper to the frame. After the glue dries, the tissue paper can be trimmed to the shape of the frame. Then using a 50/50 mix of white glue and water, brush the emulsion on the tissue gently (or it'll tear) and let it dry. As it dries it takes on a wrinkled appearance. Then it can be painted and looks quite realistic. Same also works for lifeboat covers, or anything else you'd use canvas for. Rod. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: I"p"MS >> As for the dig about I"p"MS, we would be seeing far fewer quality and diverse entries (no resin, multimedia, metal or wood models would be allowed) in the ship categories if not for the rule change that allow these entries (no metal or resin figures either). << Rusty. I am an old I"p"MS member too, but I for one have never been happy with the rule change (resin is a plastic by the way). I model in all materials from wood, paper, plastic and metal but I always thought it was a "CHALLENGE" to produce wonderful models "MOSTLY" in plastic (even the old rules alowed some photo etch, etc. we had the percentage rule). There are enough "plastic" figures on the market to make any figure you could want with a little "WORK". Sorry, It's always been a sore point with me and you touched the nerve. Cheers, Bob Santos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Laurie Menadue" Subject: Figurehead identification Hi listees A bit off line, but can anyone advise where I can get a wooden (full size) figurehead identified. I have several emails out to museums but no responses. regards Laurence -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: GKingzett@aol.com Subject: Re: WW 1 fiction and Savo SMML'ers, While trying to pick up on the thread of WW 1 fiction, I went digging through my stacks of books looking for Buller's Dreadnought, by Richard Hough, published by William Morrow and Co. in 1982. I recommend it highly. I have always admired his writing. His book Dreadnought was the first technical book I ever read, lo these many years ago, which combined accuracy with excellent writing to make a subject come alive. Let's face it, over the years we have been exposed to some thoroughly dreadful writing. Hough's work is always enjoyable. You will enjoy Buller. While digging, I came across The Shame of Savo, by Bruce Loxton, published by Naval Institute Press in 1994. Mr Loxton is Australian, a retired, very high ranking RAN officer with much international experience. The book seems thoroughly researched, and is copiously illustrated with maps and pictures. Although there is plenty of blame to go around and much to be learned, his primary point is that HMAS Canberra was accidentally torpedoed by USS Bagley. Seeing the international nature of SMML, I wonder, is this a generally accepted viewpoint among naval historians? If not, can someone give me some other references to get other viewpoints? Since the Battle of Savo was so important, I would like to know if there is one generally accepted story of what did happen in Iron Bottom Sound 58 years ago. Gary -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Bill & Kaja Michaels" Subject: WW2 LCMs Here's what I know about LCMs so far: The book "Allied Landing Craft of WW2" has two pages devoted to the LCM(3). There is an outboard profile and a top view drawing, as well as several photos. There is an entry that says the LCM (6) was an LCM(3) with 6 additional feet spliced in. There is also a photo that shows a "3" after conversion to a "6", that shows the additional 6 feet (unpainted) spliced in amidships. The photos of the boats are unidentified, and show different boats with different armaments. There is an LCM3 on display at the USS Massachusetts park in Fall River Mass. (That boat has been stripped of any sort of deck fitting or other detail that a visitor might trip over.) It is of limitied value for detail info, but seeing it helped me better understand the drawings in the book. If someone has unearthed a decent set of drawings for the LCM3, I'd love to hear about it. I've got an RC version on my projects list, to go with my 1/16 scale RC Sherman..... Bill Check out my US Coast Guard subjects model list at: http://www.tiac.net/users/billkaja/kitlist.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Ned Barnett Subject: LCM >> Need some help. I am looking for 2 view drawings of Landing Craft Mechanized that could cary one tank: LCM [ 3 ] -- 50' long and/or LCM [ 6 ] -- 56' long [either model 1 or 2] If anyone has this, please contact me off-line. << Don't contact him offline - I'd be interested, too. Thanks for sharing ... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Ned Barnett Subject: Awnings RB - This is an old technique - at least 25-30 years old - for making tarps for use on tank models. I've done it (not recently) and it's remarkably effective for tarps. However, awnings have to support their own weight (tarps were generally draped as camoflage or weather-protection over AFVs or the equipment they carried. If you dye the water/white glue mixture, the tarps come out pre-painted. I suggest using acrylic paints rather than RIT dyes, as this should impart some strength when dry, and should permit you to safely shade/countershade the tarps with washes and dry-brushes of acrylics. Assuming a gentle hand, a small distance of free-standing tarp and decent tensile strength for the tissue, it should work. PS - don't use the ones with embossed flowers (and I'd stay away from the ones with permeated hand lotion, scents, etc.). Good luck - and tell me how it works. Ned -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: NEVENGER@aol.com Subject: Looking for plans on EDF Space Battleship Yamato OK so this is a little off the beaten path of the SMML group, but I figured I would give it a try. I am a fan of the old Japanise Amime SiFi Star Blazers series. So far I have failed to find detailed plans for a model of the Space Battleship Yamato (also known as the Argo) that I want to build from scratch. I have the kits for the model that Bandi made but plans would be nice. I am seeking the Body plans (frames would be nice but unlikely), Outboard profile, and topside view. Any help would be cheerfully accepted. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "edger1" Subject: Review of Planet Models Type IID To all, I've never done a review of any model kit before but since Tom D. wanted some more precise info on the Planet kit, I'll give it a try. Type IID All the parts for the kit are in a grey-green resin. the hull is in 2 parts (upper and lower) The dividing line is just at the top of the saddle tanks. There are some pin holes along the keel of my sample but nothing major. The upper part of the hull has raised detail for deck plates and hatches. This seems to me to be a good starting point for a scriber. There are no flooding ports (the actual term for these holes have escaped me at the moment) at all so they will have to routed in by the modeler or painted on. There is a large resin pour plug on the stern of the lower hull which needs to be remove prior to installing the upper deck. The rudder, diving planes, props, shafts and supports, net cutter, guns and conning tower are all resin. You have the option of placing the 37mm gun in the tower or on the deck forward of the tower. Oh yeah, there is an anchor so don't forget it! If you want to add railings and antenna wires, that is where you'll need to scratch-build to get the most out of the kit. I'm going to try styrene rod to make my rails. There is a set of decals which would be great for pre-war subs only. They represent the large numerals seen on the sides of the conning tower. A stand is also provided in resin. I hope this helps any who is interested in these kits. I assume that the quality of the other subs is comparable. (Type II A, B, C and XXI). The directions ore one sheet with an exploded view and color call outs in Czech, German and English while the other side has to paint schemes and history and tech data. It cost $34.98 at my local shop. All subs are listed at the same price. Dave Edgerly MSG, USA (ret) Hi Dave, Nice review. Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Darren Scannell Subject: Re: Planet Models Subs Tom Scrawled: >> Thanks, Tom Duugherty << Tom, Tom, Tom... getting so excited about a sub topic that you can't even take the time to get your own name right?!?! For punishment, you now have to build a target. : ) Darren -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Mike" Subject: Web site updates Hi, Just to let you all know that the site is again up-to-date on the Archives, and the index for the search is also refreshed. Should anyone out there have any photos, articles, reviews, etc, that they would like to send in, please mail me at this address. Mike SMML Webmaster -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Ian MacCorquodale" Subject: INR/Opsail 2000 site Hi Group, INR/Opsail 2000 site completed with side trips to Groton Submarine Museum, Nautilus and USS Albacore museum in Portsmouth NH, is now up. Thanks again to SMML'ers for the NY advice and Mike Leonard for getting me there! Cheers, Ian http://www.geocities.com/macdale_2000/ P.S. Anyone make 1/350 Plessy Shield Launchers for my Halifax kit? What a mess.... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://www.smml.org.uk Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://www.tac.com.au/~sljenkins/apma.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume