Subject: SMML VOL 1028 Date: Tue, 10 Oct 2000 23:20:25 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Kids these days 2: Re: photoetch s.o.s. 3: WW2 Kids Toys 4: Re: Photo etch SOS 5: Re: photoetch s.o.s 6: USS Wisconsin 7: Re: LPH kits 8: Russian surface ships in 1/700 9: Re: Arizona sales 10: Seawaves Magazine 11: NNL 12: Screws & Photoetch SOS 13: Drat ... 14: History Channel Update 15: Remembering Pearl Harbor but getting the Tamiya kit 16: Midway Memorial 17: Re: Sailing ship rigging 18: Re: Sailing ship rigging 19: Re: Sailing ship rigging 20: Essex-class LPH conversions 21: Sailing Ship Rigging 22: Brass mounting pedestals 23: Re: photoetch s.o.s 24: Re: Nassau Kit 25: Warspite Wooden Decks: A Last Word 26: Re: Czechoslovakia no longer exists! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Infomation 1: Thanks to the Hornet Gang of SMMLies 2: Model Clubs 3: Battle of Atlantic -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Ise Book by Gakken for sale 2: Warship Books announcement 3: Re: Kitty Hawk = JFK -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS Hi gang, Word has reached the "lofty towers of SMML" of three SMMLies doing very well last weekend at the IPMS Vancouver competition. Congratulations to the following: Kerry Jang: who won first prize with his 1/700 JMSDF Ohsumi & best Naval Subject Bob Brown who placed 2nd with his Asigumo (sp) & 3rd with a Sumner class DD. Rob also won best Naval Diorama as well. Keith Butterley took out a 1st in the 1/600 or larger with his Airfix HMS Belfast with WEM add-ons. You can check out Keith's work at Internet Modeler. I'm not sure if the others have shots of their work on the net yet. If they are, could someone please post the url & if they're not - well you know we'll be wanting to see them very soon ;-). So, stand up & take a electronic bow gentleman, you deserve it. Shane & Lorna -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Shahriar Khan Subject: Re: Kids these days hi, What you're saying about kids isn't necessarily right. I'm 12 and from the age 0f 6 since, the time i could read, i've been reading history. I can answer questions about Ancient Greece to the Gulf War. i know quite a few people who read about history. the people who don't read or learn are those kids who are too busy being 'cool'. But on the other side i'm not one of those kids who has no friends (I've got a close circle of 10), or a nerd. so it depends what angle you look at. History to me is a diverse rich tapestry of life in the past. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Edward F Grune" Subject: Re: photoetch s.o.s. tomoyuki wrote: >> can anyone recommend any special [sprue] cutter for the job,the distributor and the price? << I use a #11 x-acto knife cutting against a plain old white kitchen tile. This allows me the control to place the cutting tip as close to the part on the etched attachment as possible. I clean-up the little cut-off nubs using a jewelers file or sanding stick. Some people recommend cutting on glass, but I've found that the tile isn't as breakable and is cheap. The white tile also shows the part in good contrast. If you're plagued with flying parts - you can put the tile and photoetch fret into a clear storage bag and reach in the bag to cut. The bag will stop the flying parts. Ed Mansfield, TX -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: GrafSpee34@aol.com Subject: WW2 Kids Toys Further to the recent topic of kids and their apparent disinterest in history, stroll down the action figure aisle at Toys R Us and you might be surprised to see a line of 1:6 and 1:18 scale WW2 soldier figures and equipment, both Axis and Allied. The line has been rapidly expanding since last year. so presumably these things are actually popular with kids despite Playstation and Pokemon. By toy standards, the details on these figures and accessories are excellent. Model builders may want to take a close look at the 1:6 US Navy WW2 twin bofors and the 1:18 P-51 and Bf109e, all of which come with posable crew figures. There is also a massive 1:6 scale Stewart tank. The basic shapes make a very good impression, and might be good starting point for an accurate large scale model. The lastest batch of new releases include a 1:6th Waffen SS panzer grenadier, and a plethora of Wehrmacht infantrymen in 1:18. I do wonder why there is still no reaction from those "concerned parents" who always make a big public fuss over war toys. I suspect they just don't recognize the SS camouflage uniform, or maybe it just seems harmless nowadays compared to the chain saw murderer figures sold in the other aisle -- no kidding. At any rate, the memory of WW2 seems to be alive and well in lots of kids imaginations. I am sure that many of the kids who play with these things now will be part of the next generation of military model builders and history buffs. Cheerio Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Photo etch SOS >> can anyone recommend any special cutter for the job,the distributor and the price? << First, I wouldn't recommend using any commercial cutter (sprue or photo etch) of any kind to cut photo etch parts from their sprues. Photo etch parts for ships are for the most part extremely delicate due to the scales involved. Also, most photo etch parts are too close to the sprues (at least they are on my sets) and each other to cram a cutter between them to do the job without damaging surrounding parts. Use a good ol #11 blade in a Xacto knife with a piece of glass as a backing to cut the parts from the sprue. Also be sure to wear protective glasses when clipping the parts. They can easily fly into your eyes. I use a magnifier when clipping PE parts. This allows you to get much closer to part with the blade. Hope this helps. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ Order online with Visa & Master card (US only) "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Steve Holton Subject: Re: photoetch s.o.s In spite of some advertisements sprue cutters or "photo etch" cutters are not the way to go in my opinion. I use a sharp single edge razor blade against a piece of glass. I got the local glass man to cut a 8 by 8 inch piece of 3/16 glass and polish the edges for cutting PE. I recently retired and got back into modelling after a long hiatus and have been going through the learning curve on PE - I had never encountered it in the past - too old ;) I found two Kalmbach books my Mike Ashley ( "Basics of Ship Modelling" and "Building and Detailing Scale Model ships" ) very helpful - particularly in catching up on many years of new developments in modelling. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: dlfowler@apple.com Subject: USS Wisconsin Howdy, I am trying to get together a decal sheet for converting the Tamiya 1/350 modern New Jersey into any of the Gulf War era Iowa Class BBs. So far I have been able to get images of the bridge ribbons and awards of all of the BBs except the USS Wisconsin. I have images of most of the other areas of the ship. Would someone know where I might be able to get ahold of an image of the Whiskey's bridge? I'd greatly appreciate it! Regards, Duane Fowler -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: James Corley Subject: Re: LPH kits >> Is there any real difer3ence between the Revel Tarawa kit and the new Academy Nassau LPH-4 kit?? << Tons of differences! The Italeri is a repop of the DML 1/700 kit with a new small sprue with new antennae and 2 RAM launchers. Other than that, I cannot recall any diferences. I guess they wanted to call it 1/720 so it would fit next to their carriers. Not too much of a difference in size (2.9%) JZ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Poutre, Joseph A" Subject: Russian surface ships in 1/700 In addition to the ships Pelle mentioned, there are: Leningrad/Moskva by Kombrig (or Combrig) HP Models lists the following: MN-SU-001 Soviet Raketenkreuzer "Adm. Usakov" ex "Kirov" MN-SU-006 Soviet Flottentender "Beresina" MN-SU-011 Soviet Landungs-Schiff "Ropucha-I-Klasse" MN-SU-012 Soviet Landungs-Schiff "Ropucha-2-Klasse" MN-SU-014 Soviet Bugsier-und Bergungsschlepper MN-SU-015 Soviet Schwimmkran (The first four are east to translate, but what are those last two? I think the last is a floating crane, and Altavista says a Bergungsschlepper is a salvage tractor.) These came from the Ship Model Review List, maintained by myself and Dave Wells, with much assistance from fellow ship modelers. http://www.quuxuum.org/rajens_list/shiprev.html Reviews are always welcome. Also, the lead ship in this year's poll by Pitroad is the Kirov, at 17 votes. (The next is USS Wasp, CV-7, at 11 votes.) This one would make many people happy, I think. I'd pick one up right away. I'm planning to build a Soviet SAG to complement my USS NJ SAG. I have the Udaloy, Sovremenny and Krivak (only one model it in, though) and when (hopefully) Pitroad comes out with the Kirov she'll be the centerpiece. Joe Poutre -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Burl Burlingame / Pacific Monograph Subject: Re: Arizona sales The Arizona Memorial Association sells piles of crappy Revell kits of the Arizona, and would happily sell better ones, and anyone producing a kit of anything in the future should keep in mind the "impulse purchase" market at ship memorials. However, that said, the crappy Revell model is only a few dollars and ICM's Koeing is something like $75, well out of the impulse market. A decent, accurate 1/700 Arizona under $20 would sell very well, particularly if the fiddly bits were left to the aftermarket brass etchers, and the kit deliberately designed for that purpose. In terms of a broader market, everyone who's a ship modeler will buy one Arizona, but only one. In 1/350 scale, there are whole classes of ships overlooked that you could build dozens of. This includes every destroyer, destroyer escort and submarine class of every navy. Tamiya produced a nice Fletcher, but only one edition. It would be interesting to know how sales of their Fletcher have gone, because logically, they should sell a lot more of that than any Essexes or Arizonas. Burl -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: JRKutina@webtv.net (John Kutina) Subject: Seawaves Magazine http://www.seawaves.com/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "chenyangzhang" Subject: NNL Hi Leigh There's a review of one of their models on the Warship website. The reviewer recommends them highly. Chris Langtree -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Mike Connelley Subject: Screws & Photoetch SOS Howdy: Perhaps my adventure in making the screws for my Revell Arizona may give you an idea or two. For the prop shaft, I used an appropriate sized piece of brass rod. For the prop hub, I chucked an appropriate diameter piece of brass rod into my dremel and filed it down while rotating to get the proper profile of the prop hub. For the prop blades, I used the Flagship models photoetched blades in 1/400 scale. I cut off each blade and glued them on, one by one, at the proper position angle (i.e. 120 degrees apart) and at what looked like a good pitch. I also used pliers to put a certian "twist" in the blades...making sure I put the blades with a right handed twist on the right side and vice versa. For the Tamiya Missouri, instead of using photoetched blades (the look too 2-D in larger scales to me) I filed down the kit blades to be thinner and have more pitch and twist. On the photoetch sos question, all I ever use is an x-acto blade. Use either a scalpel or #11, but make sure it's reasonably sharp. Place the etch on a hard surface (I use a sheet of glass) and just press down with the blade. If you use a softer surface, the etch may bend before it cuts which can lead to crappy cuts and frustrations. I really have never come across a need for a special tool to cut photoetch from it's sprue. It may be helpful to place a piece of tape over the photoetched fret and cut through the tape as you cut the part off...this will prevent the part from shooting off at ballistic speeds into the jaws of the carpet monster. Cheers Mike Connelley -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Ned Barnett" Subject: Drat ... At IPMS Hornet last night, I just missed meeting the charming Caroline Carter - she'd been at the club meeting just two months before, and was actually in SF - but it was her last night stateside this trip, and she couldn't make it. Thanks to her, I've become a big fan (and regular customer) of White Ensign Models - she's about the easiest, most helpful kit/accessory supplier I've run into, even tolerating my bizarre schedule and impulsive purchasing decisions. More than that, I've been told reliably that she's even nicer in person than she is on the list - and that says a lot. So ... Drat! Better luck next time. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "Ned Barnett" Subject: History Channel Update Earlier this week, I was able to do my on-camera interview for History Channel's modern marvels - topic, war-driven military technology (like the ball point pen, the microwave oven and the Weather Channel) that became adapted to civilian use, often without civilian awareness of same. They must have liked what I was saying, because they extended the interview by more than an hour and I suspect they missed their plane (or barely made it). Of course, when they're through editing, I'll probably be on for 15 seconds (my first installment on my 15 minutes of fame). But it was fun anyway. It's supposed to be aired December 12 (subject to change). I'll keep you posted. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Ned Barnett" Subject: Remembering Pearl Harbor but getting the Tamiya kit To PT191 - I think I now understand. You read that part of the post where I explained how, from a PR perspective, the whole Pearl Harbor thing is old news - then explained why. I wasn't giving my feelings (which are the antithesis of the PR perspective), merely explaining why Tamiya wouldn't have a serious PR problem issuing an Arizona. If you go back and reread it, you'll see that I clearly differentiated between the two, leading with my own feelings ... then expressing my professional opinion of the PR perspective. Here's a suggestion: Before you set off to rip a list-member a new one "in public," be sure you get your facts straight by contacting them off-list. To anyone for whom a list represents a valued virtual community (i.e., a place where their reputation is important) a quick knee-jerk attack on the list is always going to generate anger and a reaction in which the attackee feels the need to rehabilitate his/her image with the valued group. Lots of bandwidth could be saved by you (or anybody) getting the facts right before launching a righteous (or self-righteous) jihad against a list-colleague. Bottom line - I never forgot Pearl Harbor; but, from a PR perspective, America has moved on and, as a society, has long since forgiven and FORGOTTEN - so Tamiya has no problem at all. However, there are simple PR steps Tamiya could take to honorably and honestly diffuse the anger of those who really do still remember Pearl Harbor Ned -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Schiefet@cs.com Subject: Midway Memorial Greetings, Someone sent in a message regarding a proposed memorial on Midway a few issues back. I erased the message. Please contact me off line. A friend has asked for more information. Thanks, Steve Singlar Pelham, NH -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Jim Roberts" Subject: Re: Sailing ship rigging >> Does anyone know of a website that includes close up drawings of the sail and rigging arrangements of sailing warships from about the time of the Armada to the 18th century? << There's a world of difference between the rigging practices and arrangements of 1588 and those of 1788. Actually, there is nowhere near as much solid information for the former as there is for the latter. One of the reasons for this is that rigging was sized and accomplished according to unwritten formulae and rules. It wasn't until the early 18th century that rigging information began to be recorded. For these reasons, I think it unlikely that there is anything on the world wide web that fits exactly what you are asking for. However, there are several books that you might find useful, and all may be borrowed from the library (through the Inter-library Loan Program if necessary), or found on the internet through various used books sites, auction sites, etc. The first is _The Rigging of Ships in the Days of the Spritsail Topmast_ by R.C. Anderson (an abridged paperback version of this was published under the title _Seventeenth Century Rigging_ about 25 years ago), _Masting and Rigging English Ships of War_ by James Lees, and _Steels Elements of Mast Making, Sail Making and Rigging_ by David Steel. The Lees book is a recent one and the second or third edition should still be in print. It covers the late 17th century to the mid 19th century. The Steel book was originally published in 1794, but has been reprinted numerous times and later editions are still fairly common among used/rare maritime book dealers. This book describes late 18th century practices. Jim Roberts Budd Lake, NJ Member: Nautical Research Guild Ship Model Society of Northern New Jersey -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: Mike Settle Subject: Re: Sailing ship rigging >> Does anyone know of a website that includes close up drawings of the sail and rigging arrangements of sailing warships from about the time of the Armada to the 18th century? John, As I'm sure others will suggest, the absolute best site for sailing ship information is The Information Seaway. Check their site out at: http://www.seaways.com/ Mike Settle I am not agent #1908 of the non-existent Lumber Cartel (tinlc)tm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: Sailing ship rigging >> Does anyone know of a website that includes close up drawings of the sail and rigging arrangements of sailing warships from about the time of the Armada to the 18th century? << Every ship was rigged separately, you need to seek info one the specific ship you are interested in. Also rigs changed over time as ships were refitted and altered, often with significant changes to the mast structures and rigs. I'd suggest that you drop in on the Ship Modeling Forum run by Clay Feldman, publisher of Model Shipways/Ships in scale. It's hosted on Onelist.com. They're the stick and string folks :-) Ask specific questions there. Regards, Bradford Chaucer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Jodie Peeler Subject: Essex-class LPH conversions hello all.... James Corley wrote: >> From what I've seen in a pair of cruise books and a few other sources, just add helos. Well, it's not quite that simple but here is a description of what I can see of Valley Forge, Boxer & Princeton: SCB-27A mods to island including pole mast << Uh...actually, the modifications to the island were quite restrained compared to the -27As. If you notice, on the LPH conversions (and most all the unconverted Essexes that served past about 1955) there was an addition to the front of the funnel to serve as the new support/base for the pole mast, and the funnel cap was modified (to a pair of stepped caps). This was done when the tripods were replaced with the pole mast, and was done to (among others) the Antietam, the Boxer, the Valley Forge, etc., etc. The 27A modifications to the island were more extensive, notably in that they lopped off part of the island aft and also raised and streamlined the funnels. Having modified a Hasegawa Essex-class kit to a -27A (and owning BGP sets for the -27A), and having done numerous comparisons, I can attest that it's quite different.... For what it's worth, and since this has been a hot topic of late, I've posted some color scans of some USN photos of the Princeton in May 1969, on the way out for Apollo 10: http://www.mindspring.com/~raisingirl/lph5-1.jpg http://www.mindspring.com/~raisingirl/lph5-2.jpg http://www.mindspring.com/~raisingirl/lph5-3.jpg http://www.mindspring.com/~raisingirl/lph5-4.jpg The big dome on the forward flight deck is part of the Western Union television relay equipment (along with the little green Ford Econoline van you may be able to see parked between a gun mount and the island). The SH-3s belong to HS-4, and you can also see an H-34 on the flight deck aft, which appears to be the ship's bird. Unfortunately, I don't see "Old 66" anywhere, but maybe she was just playing peek-a-boo, knowing that researchers 31 years later would be looking for her.... jodie http://www.mindspring.com/~raisingirl/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Joel Labow Subject: Sailing Ship Rigging I don't know about websites but two tried and true references for English warships are Seventeenth Century Rigging by R. C. Anderson (Model and Allied Publications 1969) and The Masting and Rigging of English Ships of War 1625-1860 by James Lees (Naval Institute Press 1979). Both are profusely illustrated with photos and drawings. I don't know if they are still in print but you might find them via interlibrary loan or on abe.com. Best regards, Joel Labow -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: Denis & Marilyn Campbell Subject: Brass mounting pedestals I've been reading the posts on different mounting methods - and I have used all of them, a seascape made with artists' gel medium, keel blocks (drydock) and brass mounting pedestals. I tend to go into places like hardware stores and browse until I see something that will accomplish what I want to do, without really knowing the proper name of what I have found - I just know when I see it that it will work. Most table lamps are built on a backbone which is a steel pipe about 1/2 inch diameter threaded on both ends. There is a base, with a countersink around the hole drilled to fit the pipe and a nut and washer secure the bottom end of the pipe to the base in the countersink. Then a body of wood, pottery or whatever (bored out to accomodate the pipe backbone) is slipped over the pipe to rest on the base and then various brass pieces (also bored out to accomodate the 1/2 inch pipe backbone) are piled on up to the start of the upper threads on the pipe. The socket then screws unto the top of the pipe to hold the whole assembly tightly together. A thing called a harp (I remember that name) clips into holders on the side of the socket and another brass thingy (a finial, I believe) screws into a recess in the top of the harp. These finials on top have two drawbacks for me: they are too small in diameter usually (especially for 1/350 scale) and are closed at the top with a decoration of some sort - an eagle or feather or artistic shape. I go to my local lighting store and ask to speak to the person who does lamp repairs. They will have an assortment of the brass shapes stacked between the base and the socket (don't know what they are called - but not finials). They are open on both ends and have an interior bore of about 1/2 inch and are usually highly polished and finished with a protective coating. I then buy (at the hardware store) flat head machine screws long enough to go through the base into the hull by at least 1/2 inch, Bore holes in the base where the pedestals are to rest and countersink on the bottom so the flat head will be recessed. Bore matching holes in the hull (I usually position the hull on the base before the decks are mounted and bore hull and base in one operation then turn the base over and make the countersink). With a styrene ship, push the machine screws up from the bottom through the base, the brass pedestal and the hull bottom, slip a 1/2inch or larger flat washer over this inside the hull and secure with a wing nut to fit the screw, then epoxy the flat washer/wing nut assembly together and to the bottom of the hull inside. I have not worked with a resin kit but the only difference would be figuring out the mounting to the hull bottom - I would probably use a bolt with a coarse thread and epoxy it into a hole in the bottom of the hull (This hole should be, I imagine, a pilot hole so that the threads can cut their own threads into the resin as they are tightened up) And, any remarks from Duane Fowler or Mike Connelley about securing a hull to the base will not be appreciated. (They will understand) Denis Campbell Avon MA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: Subject: Re: photoetch s.o.s >> umm..i know this might sound stupid but i never use any photoetched parts on my ship before this.i'm wondering whether the usual sprue cutter can be used to cut photoetched parts. can anyone recommend any special cutter for the job,the distributor and the price? << Fingernail scissors from the drugstore work great. Also flytying scissors. Sprue cutter does not do well IMHO. Kevin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: Rick Heinbaugh Subject: Re: Nassau Kit Bradford Chaucer wrote: >> Is there any real difference between the Revell Tarawa kit and the new Academy Nassau LPH-4 kit?? << Which Revell kit? The new Nassau is a rebox of the DML kit, released in the past by DML as Tarawa or Saipan. - Pretty nice kit, in 1/700. I think that one was also released by German Revell. Tarawa included some LCMs and LVT7s and Saipan had a sprue with an LCAC and Osprey aircraft. They both had fairly nice helicopters - well shaped, but devoid of detail. (But this IS 1/700 scale we're talking about - how many panel lines do we expect?) It is NOT the same as the original Revell (USA) Tarawa kit in 1/720 scale. That one was quite crude, compared to DML's kit. I strongly recommend the Nassau kit. It's not new, but it's a good starting point. Rick Heinbaugh Seattle, WA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: maeisen@erols.com Subject: Warspite Wooden Decks: A Last Word Folks: Well, I won't beat this horse to death; I just wanted to thank all those who offered their two cents worth on this worthy topic of discussion (or speculation, I guess). BTW, Caroline, that was a good point concerning the calking, though I'm still agnostic on this matter. However, I WILL NOT repaint the decks of my 1/2400 GHQ Warspite model; I'll keep them the original color I painted them, which is teak (since I almost ruined my eyes painting the decks the first time around). And you know, when I finally get around to finishing the WEM 1/700 Warspite kit, I might just end up painting the decks teak as well... just because its prettier than gray! So there! Best wishes to you all! Mike Eisenstadt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: john.baumann@talk21.com Subject: Re: Czechoslovakia no longer exists! Dear Pavel, A glaring error indeed on my part. My apologies, no offence intended here. It is hard to get out of the habit of continuing to refer to the former names of countries that have since divided. I am one of the old school…... Regards, John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Infomation -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Ned Barnett" Subject: Thanks to the Hornet Gang of SMMLies At the invitation of Duane Fowler, I got to attend last night's IPMS Hornet monthly meeting - and was thrilled (well, pleased) to find out that IPMSers and SMMLies coexist in calm camaraderie - besides me, there were four other SMMLies (not counting me); given that my memory only works when talking ships or models (and not people), I can't recall the names - but you guys know who you are. It was a small group, with relatively few models on display - but it was still great talking plastic, resin and PE with real-live people, at the meeting and the obligatory after-meeting dinner, which (as FNG) I was "invited" to pick up the tab (or something like that - I actually scooped everybody's cash off the table then paid with magic plastic - necessary since I'd dropped my last dollar on Duane's exceptional Fletcher deck anti-skid decal and some other stuff at the meeting). The club meets in the Goat Locker onboard Hornet; but an added treat, it being fleet week and all, was the USS Key West moored to the dock adjacent to the Hornet, and a new/old wood-hull surplussed Coastie 83-foot boat (civilianized, but still with the .50 mg mount on the deck aft). Anyway, I want to thank everybody for their hospitality. It was great, and you made me feel like I belonged even though I didn't have a model to bring, show and tell. Ned -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Ned Barnett" Subject: Model Clubs Just a suggestion, but after last night's enjoyable experience at IPMS Hornet, I'd like to encourage every SMMLie who's in a local club to let us know when-and-where the meetings are (monthly reminders are useful) - I attended only because I was in the SF Bay/Oakland area on business - without the invitation, I wouldn't have had a clue. So - how 'bout everybody who's in a club to post monthly reminders of meetings - and especially, give us an invitation to local/regional model contests we can think about participating in ... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Ned Barnett" Subject: Battle of Atlantic >> One of the special themes that has been announced for the 2001 IPMS-USA Nats in Chicago next July will be the "Battle of the Atlantic 1939-1945". The obvious ship category candidates for this are (in no particular order): Flower class corvettes, the Bismarck, the Hood, U-Boats (particularly U-505), and Jeep Carriers (particularly the Guadalcanal). What are suggestions for other ship-based subjects? << Ed - Don't forget the following: Destroyers, from four-pipers (Revell) to Fletcher (lots); DEs (Revell); cargo ships (Revell and Resin); the Queens in warpaint (lots); then you've got the Wildcats and Avengers that flew off the Jeeps; the patrol bombers and ASW aircraft - Catalinas, Sunderlands, Liberators and even Ansons and Hudsons (on our side) - and the anti-convoy or SAR Kondors plus the flying cogs on the other side ... plus, of course, the U-Boats ... all were critical to the Battle of the Atlantic. Ned -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: SteveWiper@aol.com Subject: Ise Book by Gakken for sale I have accedently ordered an extra copy of the Ise book by Gakken, so it is up for sale. This is one of their better books on IJN ships. It has alot of great drawings and really good photos of this class of Japanese battleships. The first $25 dollars takes it! Steve Wiper -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Keith Butterley Subject: Warship Books announcement Hi all, New books from Poland, From AJ Press Polish Navy 1939 Canada $36Cdn, US/Intl $24US, UK 18 lbs. plus shipping From BS Press the Profile Morskie people USS Drayton, Canada $27Cdn, US/Intl $18US, UK 13.50 GBP plus shipping The Russian DD Tazkient, Canada $27Cdn, US/Intl $18US, UK 13.50 GBP plus shipping Regards Keith Butterley http://www.warshipbooks.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Shaya Novak" Subject: Re: Kitty Hawk = JFK We have been saying it for awhile now. go here: http://www.navygames.com/cv67jfk.htm Shaya Novak Naval Base Hobbies The Store for The Model Ship Builder www.modelshipbuilding.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://www.smml.org.uk Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://www.tac.com.au/~sljenkins/apma.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume