Subject: SMML VOL 1099 Date: Wed, 20 Dec 2000 22:26:38 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Lines for CSS Alabama 2: Re: CW books 3: Re: Adaptor to mate Paasche braided hose with an Aztec Airbrush? 4: Re: What's the difference? 5: Re: Cleaning acrylics from an airbrush 6: Re: white glue 7: Vosper Thornycroft RV Triton Demonstrator 8: Re: HMS COCHRANE 9: Hornet deck markings on Revell kit box top 10: Re: white glue 11: HMS Cochrane 12: Re: CW books 13: Re: California 14: RC suggestions 15: Re: airbrush adaptors 16: points arising 17: ARII 1/400 Scale Missouri/New Jersey 18: Acrylics vs enamels 19: Anyone remember this Japanese docu-drama? 20: HMS COCHRANE 21: WW2 Warships in Color 22: Golden Hind help 23: Re: Triple Hull Warship Demonstrator - RV Triton 24: Pearl Harbor Damage and salvage 25: Re: California 26: Job advert 27: Re: Vosper Triple Hulled Warship Demonstrator 28: USS San Diego camouflage 29: IJN Aircraft Colours -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Books for sale 2: Fleetscale 81" 1/128 HMS Hood Kit for Sale 3: FOR TRADE: Cruisers for Corvettes -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Edwparent@aol.com Subject: Lines for CSS Alabama I am trying to gather all of the known photographs and plans for this famous Confederate raider. The vessel was built in UK by Laird & Sons in 1862 and was also known as "Hull #290". I have managed to obtain enough info for a model except for the hull lines. Can someone send me copies of these in exchange for other information that I have? Thanks, Ed Parent -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Craig R Bennett Subject: Re: CW books Hi Steve Why not finish up the US early war carriers you have produced Lexington and Yorktown class carriers. All that remains is the Langley, Ranger, and Wasp. Either as individual books or one photo album. If that's of any help. Craig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Robert Vancel Subject: Re: Adaptor to mate Paasche braided hose with an Aztec Airbrush? >> Would anyone know where I can get an inexpensive adaptor so that I could use my Paasche braided hose with my Aztec 470 airbrush? Bare Air sells such a kit, but the hardware costs more than $20, and I'm looking for a cheap, simple solution. Can anyone offer any suggestions? << Michael, I've been doing this an awfully long time, and to date, do not know of any such adapter. I've inquired with Testor's/Aztek, Paasche (where they informed me I've been saying it wrong for over thirty years...) and even Badger about an adapter. I suspect you might be able to pick up one of those 'threaded inside and out' tubes that might work at a hardware or gas-stove stores. Robert "Dr Al Roberts" Vancel/oWf Al Team # 78 Matching Night Vision Tiara sold separately... -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "J. London" Subject: Re: What's the difference? "The big floaty things" can be defined as follows. The original pinnace was a sailing ship of about 20 tons but in the context of ships' boats they were very fast oared boats, up to sixteen oars, that have now been supplanted by motor driven craft. The whaler is a boat carried by warships and is propelled by oars, sail or, sometimes motor. They are used as general work boats. As the name implies they are based on boats used in the whaling industry. Cutter is used to describe certain Coast Guard craft (up to 2,000 tons) in the States but also refers to a small sail boat, Bermuda or gaff rigged used as a general purpose work boat but also as a pleasure craft. A gig is a narrow, fast oared boat and was frequently used as the senior officer's personal boat. A launch was the largest ship's boat carried in the early days of steam warships but is now rarely seen with the disappearance of battleships and large cruisers. They frequently carried a small gun in the bows. They were originally propelled by oars, but could also carry sail, until these methods of propulsion were supplanted by small engines. Michael London -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Cleaning acrylics from an airbrush >> If acrylics dry in my airbrush, a brief soak in acetone, then some run through the brush cleans it right out. << Ken, I don't doubt the acrylics can be cleaned from the airbrush after they dry on the parts. However, to soak all the parts of the airbrush in acetone would mean removing the rubber and Teflon washers from the parts. To expose those parts to acetone would cause damage and eventual deterioration and failure of the washer and seals. I've done this before and while it's not terribly time consuming, it is a pain (to me anyway). My simple Pasche H and Badger 150 cleans up in mere minutes after enamels have dried on the parts. No soaking, or fuss and no removal of the delicate washers. Don't think I don't remove those parts from time to time and give my airbrush parts a good soak. I just don't have to remove all the washers every time the enamels dry on my airbrush parts. I tried acrylics in the past and I just didn't like the cleanup problems with internal and external mix airbrushes. The cleaning process you describe MUST be done EVERY time acrylics dry on the airbrush parts. If this doesn't bother you Ken, power to ya. I've seen your work with that airbrush and obviously it works very well for you. However, I guess I'm lazy. I thinks enamels are easier to clean from my airbrush. Rusty White Flagship Models - Photo Etched Details for Warships http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ We now accept Visa & MasterCard world wide via Pay Pal "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Ken Goldman" Subject: Re: white glue "White glue" refers to casein, water based glue like the brand name Elmer's. Although white glue can be used for woodworking projects, that is not a recommended use. Carpenter's glue, or yellow or tan glue, an aliphatic resin product, tends to be more stable and has better strength than white glue, which tends to "creep" long after it has dried and produces a raised seam at the joint even after the glued wood has been sanded and finished. This is not a serious problem, however, in the kinds of small joints in wood scale modeling projects. Either product can be applied with a fine brush to fill tiny gaps left after attaching superstructures to decks, funnels to superstructures, etc. if the area is to be painted later. If this is a final step to correct these gaps after the model is otherwise finished, then only use white glue. It dries clear and will seem to suck up the surrounding color to make the seam invisible. Woodworker's glue, on the other hand, dries anywhere from a light yellow-tan to a dark yellow-russet color and would then have to be touch-up painted. Whichever product you decide to use, there will be a slight tendency for the dried glue to swell from the moisture of acrylics applied over them. Though not always a problem, it is better to use enamels over seams treated this way, or to spray a solvent based sealer over the seams before using acrylics. It is also possible to seal the white glue with a series of light, quick-drying coats of airbrushed acrylics. Once the acrylics have dried, the glue will be sealed from water damage. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER unique wood sculpture and fine scale models www.walruscarpenter.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: PaulinR@t-online.de (Heinz Weilert) Subject: Vosper Thornycroft RV Triton Demonstrator Hi Nick, You should try www.janes.com for some information (including a short video-clip!) on this new vessel. Florian Riedel -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Roland Mar Subject: Re: HMS COCHRANE Mr. Pletscher, It may be that the HMS COCHRANE insignia was picked up by the German Squadron on a visit. The Brits name their naval bases as ships. I believe that HMS COCHRANE is the Royal Navy base at Rosyth in Scotland. Also, I believe that the Royal Navy Sailing Assn. unit in the Forth is listed as HMS COCHRANE. Each "ship" has its own badge, and therefore it would not be unusual for visiting allied units to exchange them as memorabilia. Hope this is of some help, Roland Mar -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Loren Perry Subject: Hornet deck markings on Revell kit box top I built the boxtop model for Revell's 1/480 scale kit years ago and painted the white stripes as Roland Mar's posting describes. Evidently I also missed the width change in the broad stripe where it narrows down aft of the amidships elevator. Other than that, the white striping on the kit boxtop matches Mr. Mar's description, so anyone having this kit can use the box art as a reference. P.S. Revell's photographer was a little clumsy and damaged this and several other models I built for box art photography, so you'll note that the masts and rigging are not quite as true as they should be. Some of the rigging was torn off, and a signal flag is missing; I "signed" all my box art models with the signal flags on the yardarms - they spelled out LP.) Other box top models I built for Revell include the 1/240 Buckley, 1/240 Ward, 1/350 Modern New Jersey, and 1/480 Yorktown. My friend Bruce Richardson built the Revell 1/350 WW2 Missouri, 1/300 USCGC Taney, and HMS Bounty for box art photography. Loren Perry/GMM -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: white glue >> What is meant by "white glue"? Any type of wood glue?? << The most notable "white glue" in the US is Elmer's. As Shane says, any white glue will work. Rusty White Flagship Models - Photo Etched Details for Warships http://www.okclive.com/flagship/ We now accept Visa & MasterCard world wide via Pay Pal "Yeah I want Cheesy Poofs" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Leslie Brown" Subject: HMS Cochrane According to 'Ships of the Royal Navy' by J J Colledge, Cochrane was a merchant cruiser, originally named Ambrose, which was converted into a depot ship, taking the name Cochrane in 1938. She was sold and broken up in 1946 having been originally hired by the RN in 1914 and purchased in 1915. Regards Les Brown -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: SteveWiper@aol.com Subject: Re: CW books >> So much fun, so little time. I cast my vote for pre-WWII USN Destroyers, and maybe even WWI-era destroyers. Then after that, Essex class carriers, maybe? Pleeeeeease?????? (I'm sounding just like my kids, since it's just before Christmas. Ho ho ho!) << Charlie, I hope you are referring to the prewar USN destroyers. I am working on my book on the Benson/Gleaves class destroyers now, to be published in April, and also have enough material for a book on the Sims class as well. I plan to eventually cover all of the USN destroyer classes, starting with the four stacked, flush decked variety. After those, I plan to cover Farraguts, Mahans, Porters, Somers, Gridleys, Bagleys, and Benhams. That's a lot to do. May take a few years, depending on my success in selling these books. The only foreign destroyers I might have enough information and photo access is on the German destroyers of WWII. Steve Wiper -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Jim Johnson" Subject: Re: California Keith says: >> This may explain why WRPress considers it the land of "fruit and nuts << The quote I always use is "California is like a bowl of granola, take out the fruits and the nuts and all you have left are the flakes" I'm glad Ohio is out of gunshot range of the left coast. :^) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Beth and Russ Gordon Subject: RC suggestions I would like to get started in RC Warships and am looking for suggestions for a first project. I would like to build on a Scale Shipyard hull but have never done any scratchbuilding before. Any suggestions on resources, particular materials recommended for particular areas, ie superstructure, decking, etc and recommendations for a good type model to start with would be greatly appreciated. I live in the high desert of CA, there aren't too many ship modelers around. Thanks My email is bar_g_ranch@yahoo.com Russ Gordon -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Jim Johnson" Subject: Re: airbrush adaptors There are adapters available to adapt most brands to other hoses. The big problem is finding them. I have found it much easier (and just about as cheap) to just get an air hose for the new brand and not worry about adapters. Almost all hosed have one end that is 1/4" NPT and all the compressors I have seen have 1/4" pipe outlets. You can even, for a few bucks worth of fittings, have a manifold and hook up two or more airbrushes. I have one with four airbrushes, a moisture trap, a regulator and a large gage. Each airbrush has a valve. I probably have about $40 to $50 in the system. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "Chris Drage" Subject: points arising Hello all, Well, that set the cat among the pigeons! Luverlee-jubbly >> Nonsense! There are various reasons to either airbrush or brush paint a given area of a ship model, but scale brush stroke?! In 1:700 scale, or even 1:350, airbrushing will give a better representation of the paint job even if the intricacies of the model require one to use a brush. << I have to disagree here Ken. When buiilding aircraft models I air brush - when building model railway items for my son some years back, I used both air brushing and brush painting. It's nothing to do with scale brush strokes whatever they are! It's all to do with 'what looks right' in any scale. I found carriages are best air brushed yet other items like wagons look better brush painted. A model aircraft always looks 'right' when its been air brushed . Ships look better brush painted. >> You said that ship models should be brush painted like the originals. Does this mean that you don't use an airbrush at all, or do you just brush paint small areas and details? << I always brush paint my model ships - especially the decks and hulls. With all items that show weathering, brush paint in the direction that water would run creating fine streaks. You end up with a impercepticle streaking which is what you get on ships' hulls and decks due to water movement. There are no hard and fast rules to this. In the end it's down to your subjective judgement as to what effect looks 'right'. Seascapes are always brush painted! Regards Chris He tao rakau e taea te karo kupu kaore e taea te karo (Te reo Maori) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: Felix Bustelo Subject: ARII 1/400 Scale Missouri/New Jersey Hi Folks, I was browsing around the Web and I noticed on the Hobby Link Japan site that there is a new 1/400 scale kit of the Missouri and New Jersey battleships from ARII. Does anybody know if these are new molds or a re-issue of some old kit. Anybody know the quality? Let me take this opportunity to wish everyone on the SMML Happy Holidays and a great New Year 2001! Regards, Felix Bustelo International Maritime Modeling URL: http://members.tripod.com/~Febus65/imm.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "Jens H. Brandal" Subject: Acrylics vs enamels OK, I may have been a bit trigger happy throwing accusations of arrogance, but I do regard the people at WEM to be "switched on" and considering John Sheridan's background I wouldn't accuse him of not doing his homework when it comes to paints. There seems to be a common opinion on the SMML that acrylics are too fast-drying for successful brush-painting, but as I mentioned a way of delaying the drying of acrylics to get better results when painting by brush; are there any other means to achieve satisfactory results when brushpainting acrylics? One problem I've had with the Aeromaster acrylic matt and satin varnishes is that of cleaning the airbrush. I certainly don't find that plain water does the job, and household ammonia are OK, with methylated spirits also working reasonably well. I haven't tried the "coloured" Aeromaster paints, but the Tamiya paints do solve easily with methylated spirits. Any suggestions for cleaning out the goo that the Aeromaster clear leaves if unattended for too long (and I'm not even talking half an hour here!) There have been some valid comments on the favourable characteristics of acrylics vs. enamels, and to throw in some support for enamels; they cure faster than acrylics. Note that I said "cure", not "dry". Even several weeks after painting, the surface of Tamiya acrylics is softer than an enamel painted one. This increases the risk of leaving fingerprints that necessitates sanding or at least smoothing out the paint with polishing cloths. Fair enough, enamels do take some time to cure as well, but the surface is harder, meaning it polishes out far better. Important if you want a smoothe paint job on cars for instance (yes, I build the occasional car too). Jens -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Burl Burlingame / Pacific Monograph Subject: Anyone remember this Japanese docu-drama? Help! I'm appealing to the Smellies' corporate memory world-wide. About a decade ago, a Japanese film company made a one-hour docu-drama about Kazuo Sakamaki, the chap captured following the Pearl Harbor attack who became the first prisoner of the Pacific War. It was quite a production, with actors and models and what-not. When it aired briefly on American-Japanese television stations, it was called "P.W.No.1: Footsteps of a Midget Submarine Captain" but that may not have been the title in Japan. Does anyone have any further knowledge of this documentary? Burl Burlingame Pacific Monograph, 1124 Kahili Street, Kailua HI 96734 808-263-6087 buzz@aloha.net A historical interpretation company. Visit our web sites at http://www.PacificHistory.com/ and http://www.PacificHistory.net "Without Bill Clinton, radio talk shows are like deer ticks without a deer." -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: "sell4853" Subject: HMS COCHRANE Nick (& SMML) If you look at the following sites you will find that HMS COCHRANE is the main naval base at Rosyth, Scotland and also will see the details of the crest http://64.224.51.168/cochrane.htm http://www.wedesign.demon.co.uk/hmscochr.htm All the Best for a Very Merry Festive Season from Dear old "Blighty" and Norman SELLS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: WW2 Warships in Color A friend of mine who's a novice ship modeler mentioned a new book "Warships of World War Two in Color" by Richard Henson. I found a copy at a local bookstore after some searching. It features over 50 Allied and Axis warships, ranging from aircraft carriers to motor torpedo boats. The quality of the artwork ranges from pretty good to abysmal. Worse, the colors appear to be totally fabricated. I don't think a FLETCHER or GEARING class destroyer, to cite just one example, ever had a deck that was painted TAN, as this book would indicate! Caveat emptor... MWL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: "Rod Millard" Subject: Golden Hind help I'm looking for a instruction pages for Imai 1/70 scale Golden Hind. If anybody in the groups has one please contact me at millard@pathwaynet.com Thanks Rod -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: "Ron Hillsden" Subject: Re: Triple Hull Warship Demonstrator - RV Triton The full set of pictures is at: http://www.trimaran.dera.gov.uk/pages/buildstate/buildstate.html and Marine Modelling Magazine sells model makers plans.... Ron Hillsden Victoria BC Canada Club: http://members.home.net/vmss/ Flags: http://members.home.net/ron-hillsden/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: Schiefet@cs.com Subject: Pearl Harbor Damage and salvage From: William Swan >> For those of you looking for the Official US Navy version of salvage and damage with photos and descriptions go to Pearl Harbor: Why, How, Fleet Salvage and Final Appraisal by Vice Admiral Homer N. Wallin, USN, United States Government Printing Office 1968 A copy of which I was able to pick up in a thrift shop for $1.00 recently. << I have the book William refers to and it is worth purchasing - very thorough in the coverage of the salvage ops. Also keep an eye out for "Decent into Darkness". This is a true account written by a navy diver who dove on numerous wrecks in PH, including Arizona. There are a couple of sections where the descriptions are not for those with weak stomachs. Happy Holidays, Steve Singlar Pelham, NH -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: NAVYDAZE@aol.com Subject: Re: California Keith Butterley replies in reference to California: >> This may explain why WRPress considers it the land of "fruit and nuts". << Now Keith you have offended all of us who get to play on the carrier USS HORNET - do you have a carrier to play on - "fruits and nuts" we can tolerate with that kind of playground around! Michael Donegan Navydaze Naval & Aviation Artist. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: "Gollin, Phil" Subject: Job advert Any British (E.U.) researcher want a dream job ? Today's Guardian (note to foreigners - a well known pinko/liberal paper) advertised the job of Historian Grade 2 at the Naval Historical Branch, based initially at Great Scotland Yard and then transferring to Portsmouth. Job is to write Staff Histories and Monographs, concentrating on the Period 1945 to the Present. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: "Dunn, Michael W" Subject: Re: Vosper Triple Hulled Warship Demonstrator Nick wrote: >> I recently saw a picture of the new trials vessel built by Vosper and DERA to test designs for a triple hulled warship. Does anybody know of any articles, web sites or other sources of information on this vessel?" << Hi Nick, RV Triton was launched back in August, and is a VERY nice vessell. Pop over to their website (http://www.trimaran.dera.gov.uk/) or pick up the Dec/Jan copy of Warships International Fleet Review from WH Smiths - there's a 2 or 3 page article on her there & she is the cover photo too. I'm planning an article on her for SMML in the New Year. Mike SMML Webmaster -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: Damian Pliszka Subject: USS San Diego camouflage Hi group, I'm researching camouflage of CL-53 USS San Diego. She wore 31a/24D scheme calling for Haze gray and Navy blue. But... On the cover of Floating Drydock's Camouflage Part 1, there is a photo showing Fletcher class wearing Ms. 21 (Navy Blue), USS San Diego in 31a/24D and Iowa class battleship in Ms. 22 scheme (Haze Gray and Navy Blue). There is clear visible that lighter color on USS San Diego is much lighter than Haze Gray on battleship. Can anyone help me what colors were used on USS San Diego? Maybe you have detailed camouflage scheme? I'll be grateful for any help. Damian Pliszka Slupsk, Poland -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: "Cooper, Mike" Subject: IJN Aircraft Colours Dear SMMLies You may remember that I asked the SMMLie-verse about colours for Japanese Nval aircrfat. I received a great deal of great stuff, and I'd like to reinforce the point that the place to look for this information is www.j-aircraft.com. That said, there is an awful lot of redaing to be done, and a great deal of debate from people who clearly know the subject and are keen to use primary source material. Here's the answer I've given to my now bewildered mate who started this off by building a Jake. "Your Jake is a late Jake with radar etc c.1944 I've not been able to find an exact reference for the colours used on Aichi aircraft, and there were variations between manufacturers. Your best fit is probably uppersurfaces in "D1" a very dark green matching FS595b 34052-077 quoted on samples of a 1943 date. Undersurfaces are either a. natural netal, or more likely b. "J3" or "J2 - two strong light or light-medium greys. From recovered examples the former is quoted as an olive-green grey close to 16350. The latter is a blue grey in the range 36307-314." Now, I'm hardly ever going to built Jap a/c in 1/72 myself, but I think I've learnt enough to give me a good idea of what I'm looking for in 1/700. The big surprise to me was J3 - I'd always assumed that Zeros, for example were a light grey, but no, they're almost a light khaki-grey. Just in case I don't get onto SMML before Yule, have a good whatever you celebrate Mike Cooper (Wet Reading UK) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Craig R Bennett Subject: Books for sale Hi For Sale the following 3 books 1. MJ Whitney Cruisers of World War 2. An International Encyclopedia Covering 18 countries with 106 classes of cruisers with data on specifications,modifications, service life,and photos. 2. The Little Giants - US Escort Carriers against Japan An accurate account of US Escort Carriers in the pacific war with personal narratives, photos, maps, battle damage drawings and squadron assignments to individual escort carriers and their air group make up such as plane types. 3. The Big E - The story of the USS Enterprise CV-6 by Edward Stafford. A personal narrative from veterans of the ship and it's operations in WW2.There are some photos. All these books are hard back and in mint condition with dust covers, except the Big E book which is mint but no dust cover. Prices are $10.00 a piece with 3.00 for S&H charges. Craig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Joel Labow Subject: Fleetscale 81" 1/128 HMS Hood Kit for Sale I have finally succumbed to my wife's insistence that we don't have room for this monster kit so I am (sigh) parting with it on eBay. The URL is: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=529657831 .....feel free to e-mail me if you have any questions. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Bob Pearson" Subject: FOR TRADE: Cruisers for Corvettes Greetings all, I have come to the sad conclusion that as much as I like the Samek 1/700 German cruisers Nurnberg and Konigsberg, I won't be building them in the forseeable future. However I am currently building various Flower Class corvettes (one each WEM and L'Arsenal done so far). Therefore I would like to trade each of these $45 USD cruisers for a $34 L'Arsenal corvette ... or for three WEM corvettes . . Or for the Revell 1/72 Snowberry. Anyone interested please contact me offlist. Further on this theme I have started on a series of corvette profiles and am wondering if there are any comparable collections of RN corvette photos like in the 'Corvettes of the RCN 1939-45" book. Regards, Bob Pearson Managing Editor / Internet Modeler http://www.internetmodeler.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://www.smml.org.uk Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://www.tac.com.au/~sljenkins/apma.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume