Subject: SMML VOL 1123 Date: Mon, 15 Jan 2001 23:39:08 -0800 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Photoetch books & tools 2: Re: U.S.S. SULLIVANS DD 537 3: Re: S-Boats and other treasures (not antiques!) 4: Re: S-Boats and other antiques 5: HMCS NABOB 6: Re: Hold and Fold 7: Re: Newcastle again 8: Austro-Hungarian battleship colors 9: German Navy Paint Schemes - WWI 10: S-Boat Sub Reference 11: Re: Info on USN Ops in the PI/Look what I got!! 12: Fleet Sub Questions 13: USN documents on small stuff 14: Re: Rigging, Hasegawa, Reviews and a Question 15: Re: Input welcomed 16: New Year 17: Re: Look what I got!! 18: Re: What SMML Clause gave me 19: Re: Reilly Am Battleships book 20: Re: Input welcomed 21: Xmas kits! 22: Under The Tree 23: Grozny 24: Re: Pigboat 39..........Attn Ned B. 25: Naval Lore 26: Some answers and a guestion 27: Amati - 1/72 U-Boot Type VIIb -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Infomation 1: Atlanta Model Expo 2001 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Ship books for sale -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Michael J. D'Silva" Subject: Photoetch books & tools Hi Denis, Useful PE books: 1. Photoetching for the Plastic Ship Modeller by Loren Perry This is the GMM handbook, inexpensive and highly recommended. 2. Building & Detailing Scale Model Ships by Mike Ashey (ISBN 0-89024-240-2) Probably one of the best ever books on Plastic Ship Modelling. It contains a lot of hints and tips on working with PE. Available from Kalmbach Books, WEM and other modelling accessory suppliers. The best tool for working with PE is the Hold & Fold, available from The Small Shop, P.O. Box 2701, Battle Ground, WA 98604. The telephone number is (360) 887-8367 and their Web site address is: www.thesmallshop.com I have all the above resources in my personal collection, and recommend each as highly as the other. Mainly because they all complement each other to provide the modeller with practically all the PE help he/she should need. The only reference I have yet to add to my collection is the new release, Basics of Ship Modelling by Mike Ashey, also published by Kalmbach Books. This should also prove a worthwhile resource, given the reviews from other modellers who have obtained a copy. Best wishes, Michael J. D'Silva Melbourne, Australia -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: ALROSS2@aol.com Subject: Re: U.S.S. SULLIVANS DD 537 >> she was in Measure 21, overall Navy Blue 5-N (actually, Al says she was in Measure 11, Sea Blue, but we know now that was not the cast). << Oh sure, Snyder, stick the knife in and twist it... :-}. Seriously, gang, I hope we all appreciate the work that John, Alan, and the others have done in the area of camouflage. I sure do. Al Ross -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: S-Boats and other treasures (not antiques!) >> I'm looking for useful references (books, plans, websites) for both technical/design and operational information on S-Boats and other pre-Fleet USN submarines (this should include the classes that preceded the S-Boats which were used for training in the pre-war and early-war era). << Your one stop book for this has to be Friedman's "US Submarines through 1945". It is published by the Naval Institute Press and has almost overwhelming technical details, photos, and an outstanding set of line drawings by Jim Christley. This covers all classes, including very early L, O, S, the V-class (Nautilus & Narwhal) and the pre-fleet boat P and T classes. One of the T's (Tautog) was the top scoring sub in terms of ships sunk. The development up to and including the fleet boats is covered thoroughly. Speaking with Jim Christley, he told me the publisher made Dr. Friedman take a lot of detailed text out of the book, so he asked could the book have chapter appendices? When they consented, he simple moved a lot of the material to the appendices in smaller print. Don't pass up reading these gems. The companion book, "US Submarines since 1945" picks right up where the first volume leaves off, with postwar Guppy, high speed diesel and nuclear submarine evolution. Check Ron Martini's submarine page for good deals on the price at: http://main.wavecom.net/~rontini/ronpage.html Ron also has an extensive coverage of ALL US submarines on his "Fleet" section of the website. Tom Dougherty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: ALROSS2@aol.com Subject: Re: S-Boats and other antiques >> I'm looking for useful references (books, plans, websites) for both technical/design and operational information on S-Boats and other pre-Fleet USN submarines (this should include the classes that preceded the S-Boats which were used for training in the pre-war and early-war era). << Friedman, Norman. U.S. SUBMARINES THROUGH 1945. Annapolis, MD: U.S. Naval Institute -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "J. London" Subject: HMCS NABOB Can anyone provide info on the colours used for camouflage on the escort carrier HMCS NABOB. Understand flight deck was dark grey while the sides were painted in a disruptive pattern of blue-grey and off-white. What did the pattern(s) look like? What were the colours in terms of available paints such as Humbrol? Info needed for a model being restored for a naval veterans' association. Michael London -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: Hold and Fold >> Regarding folding photoetch, there is a tool called a "Hold and Fold" which retails for around $40 which does what it says. It makes it easier to make sharp folds in photoetch more precisely than without it. I've heard it's the best thing since sliced bread, but haven't used it myself. << I have one and I can say without hesitation that it does what it says, it truely makes bending small parts from PE a lot easier. All the same bends can be done without it but it sure makes it easier and I think more accurate. Long curves and bends like main rails still have to be done by eye and trial and error, Cheers, Bob Santos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Roland Mar Subject: Re: Newcastle again This may be off-topic enough to be deleted by the listmaster, but I though I'd follow up with more details about how old technology underpins everything we do now. Mr.London pointed out that the standard railroad guage is based on the ruts left by Roman chariots. The following piece [not original with me] takes it further: The US standard railroad gauge (distance between the rails) is 4 feet. 8.5 inches. That is an exceedingly odd number. Why was that gauge used? Because that's the way they built them in England, and the first US railroads were built by English expatriates. Why did the English build them like that? Because the first rail lines were built by the same people who built the pre-railroad tramways, and that's the gauge they used. Why did "they" use that gauge then? Because the people who built the tramways used the same jigs and tools they used for building wagons, which used that wheel spacing. Okay! Why did the wagons have that particular odd wheel spacing? Well, if they tried to use any other wheel spacing, the wagon wheels would break on some of the old, long distance roads in England, because that's the spacing of the wheel ruts. So, who built those old rutted roads? The first long distance roads in Europe (and England) were built by Imperial Rome for its legions. The roads have been used ever since. And the ruts in the roads? The initial ruts, which everyone else had to match for fear of destroying their wagon wheels, were first formed by Roman war chariots. Since the chariots were made for (and by) Imperial Rome, they were all alike in the matter of wheel spacing. The US standard railroad gauge derives from the original specification for an Imperial Roman war chariot. Specifications and bureaucracies live forever. So the next time you are handed a specification and wonder what horse's rear came up with it, you may be exactly right, because the Imperial Roman war chariots were made just wide enough to accommodate the back ends of two war horses. There's an interesting extension to the story about railroad gauges and horses' behinds. When we see a Space Shuttle sitting on its launch pad, there are two big booster rockets attached to the sides of the main fuel tank. These are Solid Rocket Boosters or SRB's. The SRB's are made by Thiokol at their factory in Utah. The engineers who designed the SRB's might have preferred to make them a bit fatter (more thrust = larger, heavier payloads), but the SRB's had to be shipped by train from the factory to the launch site. The railroad line from the factory had to run through a tunnel in the mountains. The SRB's had to fit through that tunnel. The tunnel is slightly wider than the railroad track, and is about twice as wide as two horses' behinds. So a major design feature of what is arguably the world's most advanced transportation system was determined over 2000 years ago by a Roman army procurement clerk's estimate of the width of a horse's aft end. Lesson 1: History does mean something and will bite you (somewhere) if you don't watch out. Lesson 2: Imagine the effects of the state's bureaucracy ..... 2000 years from now. ;-) Roland Mar -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: ZMzimmerman@cs.com Subject: Austro-Hungarian battleship colors Happy New Year to all ship builders and buyers in the world. Several years ago in Warship International there was an article on the green pre war colors of the Austro-Hungarian battleships giving so Humbrol (I believe) matches. I have had to move and all my references are packed. Does anyone remember this article or know any other color matches. Thank you, Michael Zimmerman -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: GrafSpee34@aol.com Subject: German Navy Paint Schemes - WWI Henry asked about paint schemes for the German High Seas Fleet. I recommend this webpage: http://german-navy.tripod.com/sms_paint-overview.htm Also a book called "The Dreadnoughts" published as part of the Time Life series "The Seafarers" has several color paintings of the HSF by Claus Bergen. Bergen painted the German Navy from life and was very meticulous concerning detail and weathering. Cheers Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: GrafSpee34@aol.com Subject: S-Boat Sub Reference Ned Just so happens I am selling on eBay now a 1930's vintage booklet on the S-49 with nice interior photos: http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=541054826 I've copied several of the interior shots into the item description so you can get an idea how these boats looked inside, even if you aren't interested in buying. Cheers Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Info on USN Ops in the PI/Look what I got!! For information on early war operations in the Philippines: Winslow, W.G. "The Fleet the Gods Forgot: The U.S. Asiatic Fleet in World War II." Annapolis: USNI Press, 1982. Out of print, but worth finding. Roscoe, Theodore. "United States Submarine Operations in World War II." Annapolis: USNI Press, 1949, and "United States Destroyer Operations in World War II." Annapolis: USNI Press, 1953. These two books, both of which have been reprinted by USNI Press and should be available, more than any others are what got me hooked on naval history when I was a kid. Bulkley, Robert J., Jr., Capt. USNR (Ret.). "At Close Quarters: PT Boats in the United States Navy." Washington, D.C.: Naval History Division, 1962. Another out-of-print book that includes PT ops in the PI. For a look at the other side, try: Prados, John. "Combined Fleet Decoded: The Secret History of American Intelligence and the Japanese Navy in World War II." New York: Random House, 1995. Finally, nothing plastic or resin about MY Christmas present on this best-ever Christmas! ;^) Need I say more...? John Snyder Snyder & Short Enterprises The Paint Guys http://www.shipcamouflage.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: MDDoremus@aol.com Subject: Fleet Sub Questions I hope lots of you got to see the History Channel Subs programs this week (at least North America). Brought up some questions: Where was the 3" gun located on the early E-boat built Gatos? Forward or Aft of the conning tower. Jim Corley and I discussed this earlier, and placed it forward of the conn, but the show confused me. Looked like they started out aft. Any good evidence on Gato herself, 12/41 to 6/42? What is the correct pronunciation for Gato? I've always used Gaa toe. History Channel used something like Ga Tao. Same with Balao They used Ba Lay o Mark Doremus Eden Prairie, MN Soon to be St. Louis, MO. Any SMML'es down there? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Doug Wilde" Subject: USN documents on small stuff I am researching the two WWII Great Lakes training aircraft carriers USS Wolverine and USS Sable. I have/am obtaining extant drawings of the original steamers (Seeandbee and Greater Buffalo) as well as converted vessels from the National Archives and HCGL. These drawings contain a wealth of information BUT not everything. There must be a document, or set of documents, that lists all the small stuff that went into construction, was attached from naval stores, or loaded aboard before they sailed. Such items as, deck and running lights, anchors and chain, life rafts and cable reels, radar. You know, all the details one must include in drawings and any model that claims to be accurate. So, what do I ask the always overworked yet extremely helpful archivist to look for? Thanks. Doug Wilde -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Fkbrown90@aol.com Subject: Re: Rigging, Hasegawa, Reviews and a Question I have a few remarks for Rhino Bones, as follows: I whole-heartedly agree with you about being impressed with the spirit of cooperation that drives SMML. It was a pleasant surprise to encounter such a rare commodity in this age of the "me" generation. I had the same problem as you with "to wax or not to wax" the rigging of models of old-timey sailing ships. I intended to secure the belays with glue, which I doubted would hold on a waxed line, so I went ahead and did the rigging without the wax. Seemed O.K. to me, until I placed my pride and joy on display where it was back-lighted. Then I became aware of just how fuzzy thread really is, especially if the back-lighting is solar. Hoo-Boy!!! But it is too late now, I am not about to re-rig the model. I have taken the coward's way out, and removed it to a location where there is no back-lighting. Yea and verily, my advise for ye is to sin not as I, for if ye do ye will surely regret it. Franklyn aka aka ID Ten T aka ID10T -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Joel Labow Subject: Re: Input welcomed >> I have a chance to purchase John C.Reilly "American Battleships 1886-1923" it is pricey at about 130 US Dollars and I was wandering if any member possesing the book thinks that it is worth the price.Is it more than just a good reference source?? Does it contain any detailed drawings of the ships of the period?? Any informations will be greatly appreciated. << D.P. IMHO this book is an exceptionally good resource for those interested in ships of this era. In addition to a treasure trove of photos it contains a large number of detail drawings as well as detailed descriptions of ship's charactistics. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "more than just a good reference source" but it is surely one of the best references that I have seen.....259 pages of pure gold! Feel free to contact me directly if you have specific questions. Best regards, Joel Labow -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: nd.ward@virgin.net Subject: New Year I didnt get any modelling gifts, so I decided to treat myself!! Online I ordered Conways All the Worlds Fighting Ships 1860-1905. Ordered 30th. Dec, received 4th.Jan - impressive!! from whsmith online. Great Book, great service! Also online from WEM, I've ordered and received The WEM Flower class Buttercup, and the MODELKRAK Chen Yuen. The Chen Yuen ( one of several variations in spelling ) is a nice moulding, but lacking in any useful instructions or references. Identifying the parts is a problem. From my own references she seems to be in the configuration after she was captured by the Japanese in 1895, ie the after 5.9" turret has been removed, and replaced by 3 x 6" in shields. I don't know how she was painted, but I assume she was allover grey after capture. One of the references I used was 'Battleships and Battlecruisers' by Tony Gibbons, published by Salamander around 1983, anyone know how accurate this is? Does anyone produce 1/700 models of 'Victoria's Navy'? ie Royal Navy Warships 1860-1901? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: raisingirl@mindspring.com Subject: Re: Look what I got!! hi all.... Mistress Lorna asked: >> So ......... Did anyone get any cool plastic or resin under the tree this year? << Well, both are obliquely related to ships, so here goes: the guy I love/live with gave me an Accurate Miniatures SBD for my growing CV-10 collection, and an Academy Silverplate B-29 so I can build "Dave's Dream," which dropped the Able bomb during Operation Crossroads. I'm very lucky to have him. What a guy! :) jodie http://www.mindspring.com/~raisingirl/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "RON" Subject: Re: What SMML Clause gave me 2 new CW Books 1 ISW "Porter" 1 Tamiya "Indy" What I didn't get was a day extender so I could actually see some progress in a dozen or so unfinshed projects Ron -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: Reilly Am Battleships book >> I have a chance to purchase John C.Reilly "American Battleships 1886-1923" it is pricey at about 130 US Dollars and I was wandering if any member possesing the book thinks that it is worth the price.Is it more than just a good reference source?? Does it contain any detailed drawings of the ships of the period?? << A good book, but take a pass, You can get it for far less than that. Keep a watch for it on Ebay. Regards, Bradford Chaucer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Gmshoda@cs.com Subject: Re: Input welcomed Mr. D. Przezdziecki requested an opinion regarding American Battleships, 1886-1923, by John C. Reilly, Jr., and Robert L. Scheina. I bought a copy of the book when it first came out from the Naval Institute Press. The book fills a definite gap in history for modelists interested in battleships. It provides a lot of information about the design and contruction of the predreadnought battleship fleet that was the second largest in the world a before the dreadnought craze rendered it obsolescent. The book is well written and contains clear and sharp pictures of the ships. The drawings are also informative but are not the type that could serve as plans for a scratch built model. It is certainly a book that I would recommend. I think most battleship enthusiasts should have it. However, $130 may be somewhat steep. My limit lies somewhere in the $60 range. Although it's not as if I could afford to pay more, I have very frugal tendencies. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: "Ian MacCorquodale" Subject: Xmas kits! In reply to Mistress Lorna's thread on what we got for Xmas.... 1/400 scale Lee USS Enterprise 70's fit.... ooo! Not too shabby at all, although the best part thus far is the stand.... 1/600 Lee Iowa.... Thumbs down, stubby 5" barrells, and little nibs for harpoons, I dont recommend this at all. (Comes in all 4 ships of the class for those who enjoy a challenge or torture!) 1/300 scale Perry Class FFG.... Absolutely tiddly, No decals though. Comes with Bofors mounts, and Exocet to make the Taiwanese version. Personally I'm doing USS Elrod FFG-55,all dressed in INR/Opsail 2000 bunting. (That is if I can get my mitts on 4x 5's 1/350 decals) 1/72 Lindberg Sea King. Nice slap together kit, looks great in RCN 1950's scheme. (Thanks for the decals Darren!!) +Brushes,P Fishing tackle box for all the gear, paint and some dandy fine tipped brushes. Hope you all got a great pile o' plastic! Cheers, Ian http://www.geocities.com/macrachael/ Naval Photography...So much to Sea! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: "Jana & Pavel" Subject: Under The Tree Dear SMML'ies, I must have been a very good boy, or maybe just good at it? This Christmas I received not one or two models but SIX (the number is not a Freudian slip!) They are: NNT 1/700 KuK Radetzky NNT 1/700 S.M.S. Mackensen (1917) HP 1/700 H.M.S. Invincible (1909) B Resina 1/700 H.M.S. Iron Duke (1914) B Resina 1/700 H.M.S. Repulse (Waiting with bated breath for WE Renown) WSW 1/700 S.M.S. Blucher (1914) Quite a few books as well. Dreadnought by Robert K. Massie War at sea in the Age of Sail by Andrew Lambert War at sea in the Ironclad Age by Richard Hill Royal Navy by john Winton Regards Pavel -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: "John Rule" Subject: Grozny I felt inspired by the recent batch of quick reviews to pass this on. I obtained the Waveline kit for the soviet Kynda Class cruiser Grozny. The kit is well packaged in a rigid card box with a colour photo of the finished model on the top. The kit is a cast in gray resin and appears to be very crisp. The hull is a solid casting and is fairly well detailed but seems to have one major error in that the hull is significantly short for 1:700 scale. Based on the dimensions given in the kit instructions and confirmed in Conways the length is 141.7m which in 700 scale should be 202mm. The length of the kit hull is only 194mm which is significantly short. This probably can be corrected fairly easily. The hull width is correct. The kit also contains a bag of crisp resin castings for the superstructures, macks, funnels(or whatever), missile launchers etc. A small bag contains small whitemetal parts like anchors and small radar dishes. The kit additionally contains a sprue with the twin 76mm turrets from the Skywave Krivak kit a weapon also used on the Kynda class. The decal sheet from the Krivak kit is also included. The kit should make up into a worthy addition to anyone's soviet fleet especially if the length can be fixed. The side view in Conways should help or for that matter the plan in the kit instructions which although slightly distorted is closer to the correct length. The instructions follow the Waveline exploded view, which is quite good. The addition of photoetch from GMM, for example, for radar antennae, railings etc will enhance the model. Hope this helps. John Rule -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: Lump518176@aol.com Subject: Re: Pigboat 39..........Attn Ned B. I have read the book "Pigboat 39" author unknown, (sorry its been a long time). A great true story of a "S" class submarine in the Asiatic Fleet circa 1940 thru 1942. Great reading as I remember, not only of desperate combat, but of incredible stories of life in prewar P.I.. Jerry Phillips -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: "Ken Goldman" Subject: Naval Lore I don't know if this is true or not, but it makes a good story. >> Naval Lore Every sailing ship had to have cannon for protection. Cannon of the times required round iron cannonballs. The master wanted to store the cannonballs such that they could be of instant use when needed, yet not roll around the gun deck. The solution was to stack them up in a square based pyramid next to the cannon. The top level of the stack had one ball, the next level down had four, the next had nine, the next had sixteen, and so on. Four levels would provide a stack of 30 cannonballs. The only real problem was how to keep the bottom level from sliding out from under the weight of the higher levels. To do this, they devised a small brass plate ("brass monkey") with one rounded indentation for each cannonball in the bottom layer. Brass was used because the cannonballs wouldn't rust to the "brass monkey", but would rust to an iron one. When temperature falls, brass contracts in size faster than iron. As it got cold on the gun decks, the indentations in the brass monkey would get smaller than the iron cannonballs they were holding. If the temperature got cold enough, the bottom layer would pop out of the indentations spilling the entire pyramid over the deck. Thus it was, quite literally, "cold enough to freeze the balls off a brass monkey." << Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER unique wood sculpture and fine scale models www.walruscarpenter.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: "D.Przezdziecki" Subject: Some answers and a guestion In answer to Rhino Bones post- 2 and 3 -bar railing varies according to ship types,their nationality,and era.Best to check photo or archival reference to make sure which type was used.In 2 bar-railing 2 bars are visible above deck level,in 3-bar guess....3!!! Sam Pulling forgot to mention a great book by R.A.Burt "British Battleships 1889-1904" published by Arms & Armor Press 1988, ISBN 0-85368-914-8; long out of print now. Burt also wrote "British Battleships of WW I" Naval Institute Press ISBN 0-87021-863-8 and "British Battleships of WW II" no idea about the publisher or ISBN. All are great reference works,and in my opinion much better than Parkes book. Now Sam be an angel and tell me more about Reilly's "American Battleships 1886-1923" -pretty please???? Regards D.P. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: "enrico_villa@libero.it" Subject: Amati - 1/72 U-Boot Type VIIb Hi everybody, does anybody know something about this kit (i.e. accuracy, quality, amount of scratchbuilding required,...)? I have seen it in a hobby shop here in Milan, and I'm quite fascinated by this really big one: the problem (typical...) is that it's quite expensive (the equivalent of about 200$) and so I'd like to have some information before making the investment. Thanks and happy New Year (I know I'm quite late...)! Enrico -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Infomation -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: TechnoInfidel@webtv.net (John Collins) Subject: Atlanta Model Expo 2001 Greetings all: This is a contest advisory for those living in (or near) the Southeastern United States. IPMS Northmen and IPMS Atlanta are co-sponsoring the Region 3 Convention in the Atlanta area again this year. The contest will be 2-3 February 2001, at Meadowcreek High School, Steve Reynolds Blvd, Norcross, GA. Last year, the show drew over 800 models, and we expect even more this year. Ship participation was nearly that of the US nationals; quality also rivalled the nats. We were able to get more space at the school and will have separate vending and model rooms. While vending will not be at the nirvana level like the nationals, we still have commitments for over 80 vending tables and still expect a few more. One ship vendor compared us favorably with the big show--saying we were better organized, had better traffic, and he had better sales. And, especially compared to the Dallas nats, we're very inexpensive: $10 to enter with 10 models. It's such a deal, and we still make money. Personally, I would like to see as many SMMLmates there as possible, to put some faces with names. Please look me up; I will be at the Victory Models tables. We could always use a few more ship vendors and, I sure, you wouldn't mind some sales. If you need more information, please contact me offline. Thanks, John Collins IPMS Northmen Atlanta, GA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: SJantscher@aol.com Subject: Ship books for sale Hi All, I have the following two books for sale. Price does not include postage, which will be sent at actual cost. Photoetching for the Plastic modeler by Loren Perry. softcover 30 pp, $6.00 Super Illustration Battleship Yamato, softcover, Japanese text, 1/600 scale fold-out plans, hundreds of line and detail drawings,106 pp, $25.00 Thanks, Steve Jantscher Minnesota, USA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://www.smml.org.uk Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://www.tac.com.au/~sljenkins/apma.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume