Subject: SMML VOL 1210 Date: Sat, 14 Apr 2001 23:20:20 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Rigging Attachment and Badger Paint 2: Arizona Memorial 3: PE set for Glencoe's "Oregon" 4: John Leyland 5: Working with metal 6: Line Drawings 7: cleaning files 8: Plastic Model Cases 9: Reducing material for molds 10: 1/400 IJN Cruisers & Koop Hipper Book 11: Re: R. E. Lee Steamboat Kit 12: RN Ship Deck Codes 13: Re: Type 42 Flightdeck Markings 14: Camouflage colours 15: Re: Billowing sails 16: Re: Coventry's Flight Deck Markings 17: HMS Bluebell 18: Gato plans 19: Re: Type 42 Flightdeck Markings 20: Re: Royal Navy's Type 42 Question 21: Re: Camouflage Volume 2 22: NP-3 23: Vote for Ocean Liner Kit -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: OH' Boyycott -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Poore, Devin" Subject: Rigging Attachment and Badger Paint I've seen a lot on WHAT to use as rigging, but nothing on HOW to attach it. On the full scale equivalents, it's pulley's and the like; what does everyone use? I'm working in 1/350th, and on my first attempt I simply glued the end of the run to the rear of the mast cross member, coated the tip over with a little glue and painted it. It doesn't look that bad, but that gray blob where the line terminates doesn't look realistic to me. As far as the question about the Badger acrylic line of paints: I've been passing along my recommendations for this line ever since I discovered it two years ago. I've never dealt with any paint that has responded so well in an airbrush. But, for the record, I do thin it a bit for spraying. I've sprayed it straight before and some colors don't respond as well unthinned (pigment consistency?). Devin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Michael471295@cs.com Subject: Arizona Memorial I am new to ship modeling, though my very first model was a tugboat built in 1972. I am working on compiling information to build an accurate replica of the U. S. S. Arizona as she sits today, including the memorial above her. The plan is for a diorama including the Arizona and Memorial as they sit in Pearl Harbor. The display will be built to show the underwater view. I am trying to be as accurate as possible, and have compiled info from the National Park Service site, as well as info obtained from the Arizona Memorial foundation. I want the project to be a fitting tribute to those who lost their lives on December 7th. Hopefully the result will be museum quality. So, if any one has and would be willing to share information about the ship, the memorial, or related information I would be most appreciative. thanks, Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Ray Mehlberger" Subject: PE set for Glencoe's "Oregon" Being a neophyte to ship models, I only have a few odds and ends of ships that interest me. Mainly I am a armor builder. But I have the Glencoe kit of the "Oregon". I recently read a review of a author that built it and he said he used some PE by a company called Tom's Modelworks. However, he never says where you get this set and how much it is....or what is in the set other than hand railings. Can anyone fill me in a bit. Thanks, Ray Mehlberger IPMS/USA #12269 (AMPS member too) Contributing Armor Editor for Internet Modeler Magazine www.internetmodeler.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "maeisen@pop.erols.com" Subject: John Leyland Folks: Would anyone know how I could get in touch with John Leyland, whose awesome USS Enterprise model graced the cover of Fine Scale Modeler several months back? A happy Easter or Passover to all in SMMLiedom! Thanks for the help! Yours truly, Mike E. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) FROM: Mike Bartel SUBJECT: Working with metal >> Having worked with white metal wargame models for 30+ years I have some advice for you. 1) For drills and burs I would suggest using relativly low speeds. At higher speeds you produce too much heat and will clog the tool and possibly damage your model. 2) I stop frequently and clean the drills and burrs with a fine point insturment. A needle or #11 Exacto blade point works well. 3) Fine files clogg up as well. Clean frequently with needle or knife point. I haven't had good luck with a file "comb" or brush on the finer files. 4) Always prime before painting. Good luck << I'd like to add that in working with metal kits, I have found that when drilling holes in metal (pewter, brass, steel, etc.), a hand-held pin vise works well with a bit of oil on the tip. Clean the burrs frequently, as Chuck says, and re-oil. It will go faster, and not dull the tool as quickly. Pewter is a soft metal anyway, and it is easy to work with. If you are careful, you can even solder the larger parts of the kits together. Though my casters tell me this, I haven't yet tried it. I tried casting some masts in pewter, but I think that brass rod would be better on the built models. Holes will have to be drilled (or drilled out) for them and the rod cut and assembled, but the result is a better-looking and stronger mast than if a cast piece were to be used. For this reason, you will find many IHP kits including brass rod of varying thicknesses. Mike Bartel -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "B. Fish" Subject: Line Drawings Now for some good news, for those of us scale ship builders, In what ever scale your working in, you can contact the research Dept at The San Diego Air & Space Museum Archives and Ask for, and get, with-in five days from the first queries, Information Your looking for regarding any floatplanes used on Light, & Heavy, Cruiser and Battle ships and this goes for most all Navies around the World, most Battle Grp. had there own Scout Observation floatplanes, denoting name of ship And squadron colors, the reply sent to me, stated No charge {US queries only} if this service request is not abused, For one to build the right battleship, or Cruiser, or Carrier, we must have The right aircraft markings Happy modeling and "Happy Easter Weekend" Everybody. Bruce -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Clem Jensen" Subject: cleaning files A writer commented that he found it difficult to clean small fine files. They can be cleaned by using a light gauge [ .010- .020 ] sheet of brass. Using the edge of the sheet rub it back and forth on the file. The softer brass will form teeth which in turn will take the yet softer debris out of the file. Clem Jensen -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: BEN8800@aol.com Subject: Plastic Model Cases I was looking for a plastic case for my 1:350 Tamiya Enterprise aircraft carrier model and the Amati submarine. Both rather long cases. I searched the internet and found a great company with really reasonable prices. It is B & C Plastics Web site: www.bc-plastic.com E-mail: gstein@bc-plastic.com The cases are made with 1/8" acrylic and the top and front and back is one piece of plastic, bent at the top joints. The ends are glued on. The cases come with a nice baseboard of a fiberboard but with a maple looking veneer top and bottom. The edge is rabbeted for the plastic case. He will stain the base but I got mine unfinished. I got two cases of the following sizes: 43" long x 14" wide x 12" high 39-1/2" long x 6-5/8" wide x 9" high The cases were shipped by UPS and packaged in plastic nuts. The total cost for both cases plus the shipping was only $ 219.50. A real bargain. The largest case was $70 for the plastic and $20 for the base. I have never seen prices this low for a case. For small models like an auto or small scale plane the cases are less than $10. The guy who does the cases is George Steinberger in Greenfield, Wisconsin. He will give you a quote via the web site or E-mail - calls you on the phone with the quote and calls you when he has sent the shipment. He's quite nice. Give his web site a look. Ben -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: JRKutina@webtv.net (John Kutina) Subject: Reducing material for molds >> There is a mold product that reduces the original by 50%.It is called Reduc-It. It is not plaster, but after you reduce the original, you can make a casting, then pour plaster over it. I know you can get it form Rio Grande, I don't know where else. 1-800-545-6566 www.riogrande.com << This material is sold in one pound quantities for $30. Those of you that are professional model makers may have some interest in this material - "Reduc-it" I have not used it yet so I can give no comment on its effectiveness Regards, John - Seattle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Peter K. H. Mispelkamp Subject: 1/400 IJN Cruisers & Koop Hipper Book 1/400 IJN Cruisers I have only just caught up to all of last week's SMML issues - had a really bad cold and was barred from entering the basement! So, I think we have confirmed the existence of all four Mogami class cruisers, at least one Tone and four Tamiya Nati class kits in that scale. I for one really hope that Tamiya either changes its mind or lets someone else use these molds - its a real shame to just let them sit in a warehouse somewhere collecting rust! Is there anyway to put some pressure on them? I am drooling at the chance the chance to get my glue-conjoined and paint stained fingers - not to mention X-acto lacerated pinkies!- on them, but know I am afford them on Ebay. If any of you see them for a reasonable price at a kit swap meeting, let me know! Koop "Hipper" book. My review copy just arrived this week. It looks good, but I am disappointed that it does not have any good drawings of the Seydlitz CA conversion or for the original armament scheme for the Seydlitz & L~tzow ( 4 triple 150mm turrets). Anyway - happy modeling! Sincerely Peter K. H. Mispelkamp -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Paul Jordan Subject: Re: R. E. Lee Steamboat Kit >> I just purchased an Ideal Robert E. Lee Steamboat (sidepaddler) kit (presumably, the same kit as Pyro, Revell, etc.). It did not come with an instruction sheet. Would someone be willing to scan or photocopy me a copy of one? << Hi John: I posted your request on the Paddleducks Forum and we have someone who has a complete instruction booklet for the Revell model. If you are still looking for this, please contact me at pjships@hotmail.com and I will give you the email of the Paddleducks member who responded. Cheers Paul (Jordan) Moderator, Paddleducks@Yahoo.groups.com Global Crisis Help Centre for Model PaddleWheel Ship builders and their loved ones !! http://334648.home.icq.com//////index.html -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Subject: RN Ship Deck Codes Hi Everyone, If anyone needs to know any of the Royal Navy's flight deck code letters, I have a full list in my possesion. The original letters for HMS Coventry were apparently CY though later changed to CV and not OV as someone has said. The current HMS Coventry, a Type 22 batch2 still has CV on its deck All the best Peter Hall -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Craig R Bennett Subject: Re: Type 42 Flightdeck Markings Hi Guys Wow! That was decent of you John Currie to take time out and look at the local library. Anyways, using the Skywave decal sheets I have this to share on the Type 42 helo deck markings Sheffield D-80 - SD Birimingham D-86 -BM Cardiff D-108 -CF Coventry D-118-CY or OV Newcastle D-87 -NC Glasglow D-88 -GW Exeter D-89 -EX Southampton D-90 -SP Nottingham D-91 -NM Liverpool D-92 -LP Manchester D-95 -MC Gloucester D-96 -GR Edinburgh D-97 -EH York D-98 -YK Also I have looked at my other references and most of the photos are of ground level views very few aerial views that provide any further information. Craig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: WRPRESSINC@aol.com Subject: Camouflage colours G5 Black pigment 72lbs White lead 12lbs Raw linseed oil 16 pints White spirits 3 pints Liquid driers 4 pints G10 Blue-black paste (pattern no BBP370) 7lbs White lead 56lbs Zinc oxide 21lbs Raw linseed oil 8 pints White spirits 14 pints Liquid driers 3 pints G20 White lead 50lbs Zinc oxide 28lbs Black pigment 1lb Green pigment 1/2lb Ochre pigment 1 1/2lbs Raw linseed oil 8 pints White spirits 16 pints Liquid driers 3 pints B15 Blue black paste (pattern No BBP371) 14lbs White lead 61lbs Blue pigment (Egyptian) 11 1/2lbs Green pigment 1lb Black pigment 1/2 lb Raw linseed oil 11 pints White spirits 10 pints Liquid driers 3 pints -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Kelvin Mok" Subject: Re: Billowing sails >> improve on the vacuum-formed billowed sails provided in ship kits, however, I prefer to use actual fabric. An old linen handkerchief makes a marvelous sail, << Billowing. AH! I had that word on the tip of my tongue but just couldn't pull it out. Obviously not an old tar. Ken mentioned vacuum-formed sails and now I remember I also built those soft-bagged Airfix sailing ships like the Santa Maria and Golden Hind that went for 90 cents each. There should be close to a dozen of these cuties in the Airfix line. These were the models that had the thick injection molded sails that bugged me for something like 30 years. I needed something small and thin that would hold sexy compound curves and looked like sails and just couldn't come up with a solution. I did try (Chinese laundry) starched fabrics but on that scale it didn't work. These little ships were cheap, cute and didn't take up a lot of space. The hulls were open below the waterline so that they would fit onto a base molded with the bow wave and wake of a ship under full sail. Therefore to remove the sails and show only the bare masts and yardarms was not an option. Not a convincing one anyway and neither was leaving the kit sails on. Moved on to other things. I do armour and this method is great for making deep tank track impressions for diaromas. It will even reproduce the fine shallow track detail of a T34. I gave my acrylic gel paper idea some more thought. On sail making some of the possibilities are to cut model sized swaths of sailcloth and overlap them as in a real sail. Pre colouring the swaths has interesting possibilities. Use the same method with thin strips of paper for the reinforcing seams and the edges of the sailcloth. In places where the ropes of real ship's sails are shrouded by canvas the paper can be easily wrapped around the thread and still show the rope detail under the "shroud". The material will allow small paper eyelets or reef ties to be attached where appropriate. I don't think you can achieve these same scale "sail making" effects with cloth. Tissue paper and paper towels are practically free and the best stuff comes from MacDonald's for superior wet strength. Acrylic gel extended also comes cheap, a tube or bottle lasts just about forever and has so many wonder properties for model painting that my earlier post on this (SMML archives?) received a good reader response. Kelvin Mok -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "M & R Brown" Subject: Re: Coventry's Flight Deck Markings The Leander Class frigate H.M.S.Charybdis carried CY on her flight deck. The old Cherry B outlasted the Type 42 Coventry. So it is most likely that the "old" Coventry had the same deck letters as the current one which are CV. Now for the next question. What call sign should she be flying? Cleopatra's was GMLU but I haven't seen anything that states the RN's full call sign list or how it is arrived at. Michael Brown -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Btbldr" Subject: HMS Bluebell Hi Looking for reference photographs of HMS Bluebell (K80) - late WWII - Can anyone help me out? regards Malcolm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "Mark Pagdin" Subject: Gato plans Hi, I would like to build a Gato class Submarine 1:100 scale can anyone help me out with getting the plans - plan, elevation and sectional views thanks Mark -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: "Peter Chant" Subject: Re: Type 42 Flightdeck Markings Hello The Flight deck letters for both the HMS Coventry are CV. The letters CY are HMS Charybdis. My source is Sturtivent & Ballance "Squadrons of the Fleet Air Arm" from Air-Britain Publications, which gives all the codes from 1945. F.Y.I. HMS Coventry was carrying a Lynx HAS2, code XZ700 (on the boom) 336 (on the cabin) CV (on the tail) when she was lost in 1982. Peter Chant Plymouth UK -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: johnny chen Subject: Re: Royal Navy's Type 42 Question I was the originator of the post. Actual I've been to I've been to Jeremy Olver's Type 42 page (http://www.btinternet.com/~warship/Today/type42.htm) but the code for HMS Coventry is blank. The new Type 22 batch 2 FF, which was named Coventry has a deck code of "CV". Just this a.m., I just got a reply from "Warships1.com" regarding this similar post == "I served on Coventry for a short while when she deployed on "Global 80", and can confirm that her deck code was CV". Can anybody else confirm his post? Thanks. JT -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Marsh Edwin Subject: Re: Camouflage Volume 2 Chris Langtree wrote: >> I've just received my copy of Alan Raven's Camouflage Volume 2 and once again I find myself having to warn people to beware and check it very carefully. Like the last volume I'll confine myself to the JKNs something I've made a study of. << Mr. Langtree, For the past few months, we've all watched you prattle about this or that, saying how this person's so uninformed, or that person's incorrect, and how you've torn yourself away from your seminal treatise on the J-K-N class of RN DD's to set us straight. Well, I guess it's now time for you to put up or shut up. It seems that since all you were able to find in this book was wrong, and since your research is the basis for this determination, let's see some of it. Let's see the photos that show an uncamouflaged Kandahar superstructure, along with the sourcing for the photo. Let's see just how complete, accurate, and sourced your work is. You have shown in the past an ability to state your position without actually providing any real basis for that position. Now I believe it's time that you, with no published works to your credit, provide some sort of tangible proof that you're right, and that Mr. Raven, with hundreds of accurate and published works to his credit, is wrong. You make four specific charges of incorrectness. Prove these four: 1. Kandahar illustration wrong 2. Nepal illustration wrong 3. Norman illustration wrong 4. Nepal second scheme wrong Otherwise, your statements here are just as flippant and irrelevant as those made by you on so many other occasions. I look forward to your comments. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: David Sepos Subject: NP-3 >> What I want to know is what does an NP3 do? << Personally, I've never heard of one, but the 'N' prefix usually designates permanent flight test aircraft. In this situation, they may be test aircraft for new elint equipment destined for the operational EP-3 units. Something has to haul the new gadgets up in the air and test them before they are deployed with active units. Dave -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: Edwparent@aol.com Subject: Vote for Ocean Liner Kit How about the GREAT EASTERN. It was historically significant in the laying of the Atlantic Cable. It was the largest ship ever built at the time. I have never seen a model kit for this vessel. It would make a great display with all of its sails stacks and paddlewheels and a propeller to boot! Ed Parent -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Shaya Novak" Subject: OH' Boyycott I never said we should not eat a Chinese Restaurants (although I'm not into that kind of food) or not buy from Chinese Grocers or launderers they are Americans now and are hard working people making things better here. BUT!! I know that companies like Trumpeter are ripping off other manufactures Korean (DML) or Japanese (Tamiya) kits in 1/350 & 1/700 scale buy producing the kits with minor adjustments like adding electric motors and of the sort. I will not sell those particular kits and they are allot cheaper. That was my policy even before the incident. We all know how they rip off other businesses around the world. I have changed my message on my site those, Chinese kits I have, I let you know they are made by the Chinese it's your discretion whether to buy or not to. My American dealers would be hurt. I personally will not build one of their kits. Plenty of other kits. Shaya Novak Naval Base Hobbies The Store for The Model Ship Builder www.modelshipbuilding.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://www.smml.org.uk Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://www.tac.com.au/~sljenkins/apma.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume