Subject: SMML VOL 1227 Date: Sat, 28 Apr 2001 14:23:11 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: On the workbench 2: Paint drying out 3: Re: Model bases and covers, GREAT PRICES! 4: Re: USS Oregon Handout? 5: Bismarck Colors 6: Workbench thread (And all in 1/700) 7: Re: USS Oregon Handout? 8: Re: USS Oregon Handout 9: Last voyage of the Scharnhorst 10: Felix's paint problems 11: White Ensign Models 1:350 King George V class detailing set 12: Re: SMS Goeben as of 1914 13: Re: Did This Every Happen To You? 14: DD-1 Bainbridge 15: Re: SOVIET NAVAL RADAR 16: what`s on the workbench 17: Re: Paint separation 18: Re: Skyway pre: Fletcher 19: Punch results - price comparison 20: Re: Modelers' Wives 21: SMS Goeben 22: Re: Modelers wives -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Infomation 1: An open invitation for ship judges -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Jens H. Brandal" Subject: On the workbench It's interesting to see that the SMMLies show a wide repertoire and not being a ships only group. Being a bit of a "jack of all trades" modeller myself, I must admit I haven't finished a ship for ages (please don't throw me out - I'll make up for it - promise:)), but several are started. The main obstacle seems to be making a suitable base and seascape. Maybe manufacturers could provide a resin seascape base instead of a lower hull for waterline models? Anyway, I have an Airbus A340 which I started while studying in Glasgow, and it's still not finished. A Fujimi MiG-21 which only lacks paint, a Tamiya Type 74 japanese MBT (again only lacking paint), Reheat's Alan Shepard playing lunar golf is mainly assembled and a base is being prepared. Ships? Yes, Tamiya's 1:350 King George V is being transformed into HMS Howe 1944 with the aid of WEM photoetch, Tamiya's Yamato has been returned to the box for the time being, a Dragon Spruance is virtually finished seamfilling and sanding, but I need a Tamiya Enterprise to go with it... Yes, I have a problem putting paint to models:) Jens Hi Jens, well I did only put down ships on my list - otherwise the list of un-completed kits would take up too much space ;-). I always preferred the term "mongrel modeller" myself to cover my interests ;-). Anyway a fuller list would contain the following: Airfix 1/72 Mossie & Blenheim, Matchbox 1/72 Seafox (HMS Ajax), 1/76 Monty's Caravan, Revell 1/144 Junkers G.38. Plus some Airfix/Dapol trains, and of course the long running OOB build of the Airfix 1/32 E Type Jag. And that's all I'm going to admit to ;-) Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: BSteinIPMS@aol.com Subject: Paint drying out I can't speak for Humbrol, not using much of it, but I have bottles of Floquil over 30 years old which shake up and airbrush like new. One key technique for me is to replace the clear seal inside the lid of the jar with a circle cut from clear butyrate plastic (found in the RC airplane section of my local hobby shop) just as soon as the original seal starts ripping apart from use. The second technique is storing the jars of paint upside down. This seals the paint within the jar very effectively. While I don't do the following, many advocate placing marbles or BBs (small copper-covered steel balls for air rifles, not battleships) in the paint jar to displace the paint and reduce the volume of air within the jar. Sometimes my lids can be difficult to get off, but Micro-Mark sells a paint jar lid remover which works wonderfully. It looks somewhat like a pair of pliers but works much better, and is also inexpensive. Bob Steinbrunn Minneapolis Member, Nautical Reasearch Guild Tin Can Sailors -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Poore, Devin" Subject: Re: Model bases and covers, GREAT PRICES! Rusty, After you receive this cover, I'd be very interested in hearing your impression. I was in the exact same predicament with my 1/350th USS Farenholt, and had a beautiful cover custom made by Hotchkiss Manufacturing (http://www.chatlink.com/~hotchkiss/index.html). It did cost a bit more than yours, though! I'd be interested if the cover you get is totally free of air bubbles in the seams, totally free of blemishes, etc. All of my upcoming projects are 1/350th and in diorama, so the "available" case sizes usually don't have enough width for my liking. If you get a great product from BC Plastics, I'll be sending them an order for my BWN USS Juneau kit. Thanks, Devin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Tim Brooks" Subject: Re: USS Oregon Handout? >> GARY - are you on this list? What do I have to do to get what Bradford mentioned here? << Gary, if you're there, I would appreciate a copy as well. Maybe via email? Tim Brooks -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: rweilach@mindspring.com Subject: Bismarck Colors Not being adept at mixing paints, can anyone give me Polly-S or Tamiya paint matches to use to paint my 1/350 Tamiya Bismarck ? I think the general colors areas are: light grey hull dark grey cammo on hull dark grey superstructure and deck other??? Thanks, Rob -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: HAZEGRAYADM@aol.com Subject: Workbench thread (And all in 1/700) Now that the CVE Bogue is finished (Kinda...), a copy of the Albatross Sumner is,"On the ways." The 02 level deck house has been raised to equal the sweep of the hull forward, but 65% of it is still to go. Lots of 40mm stuff from Sky Wave is needed. Then a Tamiya Fletcher is next, but need to steal a copy of the Matchbox Fletcher's turrets (Which are accurate w/ offset barrels & two different profiles). Only 15% start. Next, a Hasegawa Essex per Larry Gertner's excellent article w/ major surgery. After another Bogue class (In British garb), next will be a 1/350 Fletcher because my eyesight may be severely hampered because of the use of photo-etch in 1/700 (The brass all by Tom's Modelworks, of course). That's why it takes me a year to do one model, if I'm having a good year! Bert McDowell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: USS Oregon Handout? >> GARY - are you on this list? What do I have to do to get what Bradford mentioned here? << I think Gary is on the list but if he does not reply, I'll supply you with the info you need, Bob Santos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: GKingzett@aol.com Subject: Re: USS Oregon Handout To Ned Barnett: To get your copy of the handout, what you should do is take off from work on Saturday April 21, come over to the Hornet and enjoy my dissertation. Second choice would be to make sure that when you attend the IPMS Hornet contest on the 22nd, people know you are there so they can meet you. Third and perhaps most practical, let me know where to mail you some stuff, and I will be happy to do so. Gary PS: The Rhinobones article in IPMS Journal did result in a nice nautical feeling model. I think my suggestions can result in a little more accurate model, with perhaps less work. G -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Jens H. Brandal" Subject: Last voyage of the Scharnhorst Broadcasting on Norwegian TV (NRK1) for Monday evening is a program about the search and discovery of the wreck of the Scharnhorst. I know that only a few SMMLies can enjoy this program, but it may find it's way abroad - I think BBC has shown interest. Jens -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Kurt Van Dahm Subject: Felix's paint problems Felix: The secret to keeping paint for any extended period of time is keeping air away from it. When you go to close up the jar, carefully wipe off the threads around the rim. Coat the jar threads with Vaseline being careful not to get any inside the jar. Now get some BB's or marbles and drop them into the paint until the paint level comes up to near the top of the jar, thus cutting down the amount of air trapped inside the jar when closed. Another alternative is to go to a photo store and get an aerosol can of the stuff they use to expel air from chemicals in the darkroom. I believe it is either CO2 or Nitrogen but it seals off the surface of the paint from contact with air. If you don't have Vaseline handy, cut some squares of aluminum foil and after cleaning off the jars threads, put a piece of the aluminum foil over it and then put the lid on. Replace the foils each time you open the jar. Take care, Kurt Van Dahm Westmont, IL NRG member -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Jens H. Brandal" Subject: White Ensign Models 1:350 King George V class detailing set Thought this would be an appropriate time to give a review - it will be sent to the SMML webmaster along with a few photos I have take of the brass bits in use. When seeing what the enterprising folks at White Ensign Models can do in resin and brass, I had high expectations when they announced a detailing set in 1:350 scale for the Tamiya King George V class battleships. I’ve always been happy with Gold Medal Models photoetch, but then I thought the Brits should know their own ships best, right? Shortly after release, an envelope arrives, inside that one is another envelope which contains two sheets of etchings and three sheets of instructions - The two brass sheets are of different thicknesses– a neat way of achieveing fineness and strength in the parts that need it and is very effective – for extra protection, the thin brass sheet is contained in a reasealable plastic bag The first sheet of instructions contains a parts map naming all the 84 different part - not counting the several duplicates. A brief introduction to working with and bonding photoetched parts is given, but this is no starter kit. The drawings are clear and the text explains which parts to use for which ship in the appropriate period - good for those lacking an extensive reference library. Even so, further research is needed for anyone wishing to use the set to convert the Duke of York, Anson and Howe – there are differences that are not catered for in this set. For the most part, the order of assembly is up to the builder, and each part must be treated like a complete model to get the most out of this set.. Following the order of the instructions, the modeller can add the external degaussing coil if so desired. The crane boom in the kit is the one part that is most in need of replacement, and this set does not disappoint. There’s just one aspect I am not happy about and that is the distance between the four sides of the boom. This makes folding to a box structure easier, but it leaves large gaps in between that are difficult to fill with superglue and sand to sharp corners. The solution is to cut the four sides into individual pieces and reassemble – the vertical face of the sides are glued to the ends of the horizontal ones. The compeleted assembly is more fragile, but a box structure is surprisingly strong and will take light sanding with a fine sanding stick. A photoetched hook can be used if the crane is modelled ”in action” - the end result is a vast improvement over the plastic part and a focal point of the model. A choice of ”starfish”are included either to replace the overly thick plastic parts or convert the kits. Funnel cap grilles and a sirene platform are improvements over kit parts. The platforms under the high angle directors that were only present on the DoY, Anson and Howe are included – a nice touch. The masts can be dressed up with radars type 279 or 281 depending on the desired timeframe. Foremast platform and IFF aerials to mention a few contribute to dress up these areas. The 281 is etched on the thin sheet and putting the model under a transparent case will be mandatory to prevent it’s destruction. The AA director radars are also dressed up with terriffic etchings, and the 284 gunnery radar will look better after the WEM magic touch. The Walrus is dressed up with wing braces, braces for the wing floats, propeller, undercarriage and of all things – two machine guns with their mounting rings. You’ll go mad, but it will be a good kind of madness when you put the plane on the catapult cradle. The kit’s overscale single barrel Oerlikons are replaced with gorgeous etchings of the gun, the splintershield and the shoulder braces. Twist the sight, add a magazine from 1 mm dia rod , add to the pedestal after removing the plastic moulding – voilá. The twin power mounts in the kit are rather poor – WEM comes to the rescue with a pair of barrels and a sight.. The plastic pom-poms are OK, but their platforms suffer from some awkward ejector pin marks. Getting your moneys worth from this set requires the removal of the splinther shields and removing all details from the guns except the barrels. This is then replaced with brass sides (again, twist the sights), fold up magazines and even ammunition. I glued the ammo strips to 1x1 mm plastic strips, split in half and loaded the magazines. Woe any 1:350 scale enemy aircraft from approacing! Make sure none of these parts are lost, as there are no replacements or spares. Parts are included to convert an octuple pom-pom to a pair of quadruple, When it comes to dressing up the 5.25” turrets, there are a lot of armoured windows included – plenty of spares too. The instructions make no mention of where to place them, but Robert Lockie and Chris Langtree emailed some images that cleared things up – thanks! Add to that a door, a pair of vents and a ladder on the rear of the turret, and the improvement is dramatic. Oars, rudders and propellers dress up the boats which are supported on deck by means of cradles. A DF aerial for the bridge front adds a delicate touch to this area. Ladders and railings in abundant supply round off the package, but no doors or hatches. This is no great loss however – two sets of WEM’s doors will supply your needs, or so I have been reliably informed. All in all this is a magnificent detailing set with only a minor gripe. Since I haven’t seen the competition, it is unfair to recommend which one to get, but I can definitely recommend it on it’s merits as a quality product which I guess will hold an extra appeal to those wishing to convert the King George V or Prince of Wales to other ships of the class. Bring on the resin AA directors, rear funnel platform, extra Carley floats, extra pair of searchlights and.... Jens -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: RhinoBones@aol.com Subject: Re: SMS Goeben as of 1914 >> The subject is a 1/200 SMS Goeben as of 1914 . . . Would there be any interest in a kit of this model? << It would, especially if you make it in 350 scale, make it for both the Moltke and Goeben configurations and maybe even add parts for the later Turkish configuration (to match up against the new Averof). Any one who owns a piece of the 350 scale WW I era of fleet would, by nature, be overwhelmingly compelled to own a couple of copies. If you were smart, and I suspect you are, you would also make the light cruiser SMS Breslau as the mate. Would there be interest . . . surely you jest! Regards, RhinoBones -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: RhinoBones@aol.com Subject: Re: Did This Every Happen To You? Before putting the bottle away, try tilting it upside down for a second. The paint makes a seal across the lid and prevents the light elements from escaping the bottle. But you knew this already. Regards, RhinoBones -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: RhinoBones@aol.com Subject: DD-1 Bainbridge Recently I picked up a copy of the Gulfstream/BWN DD-1 Bainbridge. The instructions give three painting schemes, one of which is olive drab. Cool. . . I think olive drab would look good against the typical shades of grey. Depending on the era, the instructions say that the ship was painted either olive drab, flat black or flat dark grey. My question to the ones who are knowledgeable in their naval history is; in which time periods was this ship painted in these color schemes? The bonus question is; would these colors be typical of all ships in the squadron she was deployed with during the time periods? Regards, RhinoBones -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Dengar" Subject: Re: SOVIET NAVAL RADAR If the gentleman who was looking for information cares to Email me off line, I have drawings of the Surveillance and Weapon control radars I will be pleased to send you. Gary McGee -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Drees Joe Subject: what`s on the workbench I've been making steady progress on my 1/350 USS Detroit. My first resin model so the going is slow. I have a 90% done 1/350 Fletcher DD that I look at real hard now and then and the never ending Titanic also in 1/350. I am ready to start painting a Tamiya 1/35 Pzkpf. III N and decal a Hasagawa 1/48 Stuka. I finished a Tamiya 1/350 KGV recently and it turned out pretty good. I would love to see a kit of a 1/32 or 1/35 quad 40 gun tub. Been reading "The Mighty Eighth". Good read. Joe -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: Darren Scannell Subject: Re: Paint separation Felix, Since nobody has answered this part of your question, I'll give it a try. I'm not an expert and I'm going from memory, so don't anybody shoot me for getting it wrong or trying to simplify things too much. Paints are a combination of pigments, carriers, retardants, things that hold the paint together (coagulants?/binders) and other fancy words that I can't remember (it's late, gimme a break). When you add thinner, turpentine, mineral spirits, etc, this balance is disturbed and the paint will separate over a few days/weeks depending on the amount of imbalance. Some manufactures include all these nice chemical things in their brand of thinner, helping prevent problems when using it, others don't. I suspect that some colours may require a slightly different balance, or each batch may be different, which may cause separation also. That's my theory and I'm sticking to it! Until I change my mind that is. Darren Scannell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "Timothy Dike" Subject: Re: Skyway pre: Fletcher >> Well, its a lovely sunny Friday in Reading... OK. Do any of you know anything about Skywave/Pit-Road doing a US pre war destroyer. I've heard something to the effect that they might be, but without being able to pin it down. << Mike, Pitroad is indeed working on a pre fletcher class DD, a Benson-Livermoore Class to be specific. If it's half the kit that their new Takao is (and I'll bet it will be) we are in for a real treat. Looks like the new Classic Warships book on Benson Class DD's will be out at or about the same time, so all we need is PE set to match and we will be taken care of. Any Photo etch guys working on this yet? Regards, Timothy Dike Webmaster and Editor ModelWarships.com http://www.modelwarships.com/index1.html -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: "Btbldr" Subject: Punch results - price comparison Here are the results of my research, and thanks to all those who helped out! Just so that y'all can keep me honest I used http://www.xe.com/ucc/ to convert prices to Canadian dollars. Also please note that variables not included here are things such as import duty and shipping fees etc. Please check these web sites to confirm or refute my research. Only Reheat and Historex offer hex punches, Waldron is round only. I have not seen any of these kits, and so cannot comment on quality or performance. The price differences are quite large! For those folks wishing to convert metric to inches and vice versa 1 inch has 25.4 mm. From http://www.aviaimports.com/ (Reheat set) Round set $131 for 14 punches at $9.35 per punch. Sizes : 3mm, 2.8mm, 2.6mm, 2.4mm, 2.2mm, 2.0mm, 1.8mm, 1.6mm, 1.4mm, 1.2mm, 1.0mm, 0.8mm, 0.6mm, 0.4mm. 2mm, 1.55mm, 1.3mm, .9mm, .7mm Hex Set $131 for 5 pieces at $ 26.20 per hex punch. Sizes : unable to confirm. From http://www.historex-agents.demon.co.uk/punch.html (Historex set) Round Set $62.50 for 9 punches at $6.94 per punch. Sizes : 4mm, 3mm, 3/32", 5/64", 1/16", .045", .040", .031", .024" Hex Set $87.26 for four punches at $21.75 per hex punch. Sizes : 1/16", 0.050", 0.035", 0.028" From http://www.rollmodels.com/f/catalog.htm (Waldron set) Round Set Large $64 for 6 punches at $10.66 per punch. Sizes : .160", .120", .089", .081", .059", .039" Round Set Small $117 for 10 punches at $11.70 per punch. ($132 from local store) Sizes : .063", .058", .053", .048", .043", .038",.033", .028", .023", .018" HTH Boatbldr -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Modelers' Wives Supportive wives? SUPPORTIVE wives??!!! As of August 23, when Caroline Carter becomes my wife aboard HMS WARRIOR at Festival of the Sea, I'll have the ULTIMATE supportive shipmodeler wife!! John Snyder The Token Yank White Ensign Models Hi John, You'll excuse me if I disagree - mine puts up with all of the ship modellers on the list without building ships ;-) Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: Jtennier@aol.com Subject: SMS Goeben Hi Steve: I would not be sure if I had the financial wherewithal to buy such a kit, but I personally would possibly be interested in having a set of drawings offered, with as many "accessories" as you would want to offer. You may consider offering a hull, the PE sets, and misc castings as a set or individual items. I personally would build the hull, etc and buy the PE and fittings as req'd. I was going to make your life more complicated and ask for it in 1/100, but my HMS Chester in 1/96 is a good four feet long, so that battlecruiser would require a garage for construction. How long does it work out to be in 1/200? Cheers John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: royrichey@att.net Subject: Re: Modelers wives My wife has no problem with my models in progress (5 1/400 Heller ships, 3 1/96 scratchbuilt ships) my collection of unbuilt kits (6 Heller 1/400 ships, 10 1/72 aircraft--including an AMT XB-70 Valkarie), my entire wall of books and magazines, nor my overflowing pile of tools, parts, plans, etc. At least as long as the door to my 'shipyard' stays closed. She gets no argument from me since to cat thinks the room is a litter box. Roy -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Infomation -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: An open invitation for ship judges I have been speaking to several SMMLies about becoming ship judges at the IPMS/USA Nationals this year. So I thought I would send an open invitation to anyone wishing to help judge this year. If anyone wants to become an IPMS/USA Ship judge, just show up at the OJT (On the Job Training) meeting. I'll be there as well as the Head Judge and other Category head judges. I look forward to meeting all of you. The Head Judge will explain the whole process and how it works. Back by popular demand, Aris Pappas has set up the "What Judges Look For" seminar this year as well. The last time we did this there were lots of complaints about why we didn't publicize this better. Apparently a lot more folks wanted to come and ask questions. Every Head category Judge will be there and we go over briefly what we look for in our respective categories as far as what makes a prize winning model. Questions are encouraged. Check out the IPMS/USA web site under the 2001 convention icon for a complete schedule of events. Feel free to contact me anytime and I will answer any questions you may have regarding judging ships or the process to become an IPMS/USA ship judge. I know there are lots of great potential ship judges here on this list and I hope to make judges out of a few of you. Rusty White IPMS/USA Head Ship judge -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://www.smml.org.uk Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://www.tac.com.au/~sljenkins/apma.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume