Subject: SMML VOL 1357 Date: Tue, 04 Sep 2001 05:47:43 +1000 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Charles F Adams 2: USS Goldsborough 3: Re: unrealistic paint job 4: Re: Ship Scale Question 5: Re: Eduardo and 1/600 Scale 6: Doyusha three monster? 7: The Fairmile "D" dustjacket print! 8: Re: saluting cannons for U.S.S Constitution 9: H.M.S.Tiger 10: Graf Spee Badge 11: K-boats 12: RN County DLG and its deck colors in the 70's and 80's 13: Re: USS CF ADAMS (DDG-2) 14: "Unrealistic Paint Scheme" 15: La Argentina 16: Re: 'K' Class Submarines 17: Ship scale question 18: Re: "Unrealistic" paint job 19: Re: "Unrealistic" paint job on the Bismarck 20: WWII US Navy book recommendation 21: 1/72 Scale Subs, Mini-Subs & Figures 22: Riverboat Robt. E. Lee 23: Italian Navy Book 24: D+S USS Enterprise 25: Varyag Model 26: Weathering 27: 160 scale decals -- ship numbers 28: HMS Khedive 29: Information needed 30: Spanish battleship Pelayo - new model from Jadar -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Infomation 1: ROCON 22 2: Small Warship SIG Website -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Kynda Class destroyer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Dave Shirlaw Subject: Re: Charles F Adams The US Navy paints over hull numbers when they have been "stricken". Charles F Adams and Oliver Hazard Perry, like Knox in Bremerton, retains their hull number as they are in "donation hold" status in hopes they will be preserved. Dave Shirlaw Editor, Seawaves Magazine www.seawaves.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Andrew Jones" Subject: USS Goldsborough If i remember correctly they stripped her back to just a hull as they used her gun mounts to replace one on the RAN ship that was damaged/destroyed by a fire some years ago & they never repaired it till they aquired the US version & th erest of parts also made their way into the RAN destroyers. I think the torpedo tubes from the US navy destroyer like the old RAN destroyers will be added onto the ANZAC class frigates as with the CIWS systems as i think only the 1 destroyer had them fitted in the place of the old Ikara systems, and even then the ANZAC dont have CIWS mounted so if we did have any CIWS off the destroyers thay are now in storage till we can afford the cost of some new ones ( i think that was passed in the last budget, but with the Phalanx now sort of being phased out to be replaced my RAM or its new version the RAM system mounted on the old Phalanx mounting, they may hold off till til the new technology is available for the open market ). As for what happened i think once the navy got what they wanted & from the pictures i saw of her they stripped her guts out, i think they sold her to a scrapper in India, if i remember correctly..But im sure someone may correct me in this regards. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: tom Subject: Re: unrealistic paint job Thanks to all for the great feedback. These two will get finished light grey and mounted together to show off their graceful lines. I know I'm preaching to the choir here but these are both REALLY nice kits, the detail and quality on the PitRoad Atlanta is as good as any injection molded plastic I've ever seen and the WEM Dido stands right up to it. Tom K -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Marc Flake Subject: Re: Ship Scale Question Eduardo: Don't forget the Revell "box scale" kits Yorktown/Hornet, North Carolina, New Jersey (or Missouri), Bismark and Scharnhorst, all ranging between the scales of 1/520 to 1/540 to 1/570. Gold Medal makes brass sets for these and 1/600, generally. I've chosen 1/700, which I think has a greater range in a more constant scale (I do, however, trangress into 1/720 and have plans to build a few 1/350 submarines). I think you can build as many or more WWII capital ships in 1/700 than in 1/600 -- even if you stay with the inexpensive injection kits. I'm sure that Yankee (fan) Felix Bustelo will have a lot to say in favor of 1/600, though. Marc Flake -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Hank Lapa" Subject: Re: Eduardo and 1/600 Scale There was also a 1/600 USS Enterprise (WW2 carrier) from Aurora. I have one of these kits, unbuilt, at least for a few more days. And I think WEM have etched brass for that scale, don't they? Hank -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "pwesty" Subject: Doyusha three monster? Hi Does anyone know what the level of detail is in Doyusha three monster size Yamato class model are, and are the worth the price including the Shinano? Thanks -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Subject: The Fairmile "D" dustjacket print! Hi you all I have already had a couple of enquiries about these. I have no problem sending them off in a postal tube to wherever. I DO NOT take plastic, as the bank would rub their hands, as they do. A money order from the USA just last week cost me £5.00 (Wiped out the profit, and then they sent me a letter by first class post (26p) to inform me, and charged me 50p for the privilege. (94% profit on a stamp) which did not need sending anyway as it would be in my statement. If you would like this product may I suggest you send me cash £ or $ to the value of £12 to cover the cost of the postal tube and airmail postage. Yours "Aye" John Lambert -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Ken Goldman" Subject: Re: saluting cannons for U.S.S Constitution Thanks to all who answered my question. I guess it's past time to visit my uncle in Boston so I can see for myself. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER unique wood sculpture and fine scale models www.walruscarpenter.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "John Barnum" Subject: H.M.S.Tiger It sounds like you may have the old Frog kit as she is a similar scale. Being ex R.N. I always use Humbrol 127. I actually tried it on one of my old ships and it was very near the same shade.I think if you chose to use it you won't go far wrong. The decks would be green but I'm not sure what shade was used in the 1960s. My first ship was H.M.S. Bacchante in 1972 and the shade we had was Humbrol 88. If you wish to see some of my work using these colours then please try www.holly86.fsnet.co.uk John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "John Barnum" Subject: Graf Spee Badge Hello to everyone I am just about to start building the Airfix Admiral Graf Spee before she was painted in the camouflage for the South Atlantic. The two books that I have ,"Monografie Morskie No. 8" and the "Vom Original zum Modell Deutschland Class" show different colours on her badge. One shows the quarters being Grey and Yellow , while the other book shows it as blue and cream. The diamonds and cockerels on both badges are red. I would be grateful for any help. Thank You John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Robert Lockie" Subject: K-boats There was a good article on the K-boats in Military Modelling February 1976, with GA drawings, by fellow SMMLie John Lambert, so they are pretty well done. Robert Lockie Swindon UK -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: johnny chen Subject: RN County DLG and its deck colors in the 70's and 80's I first posted this at SteelNavy, but I had no luck. Continuing with my Falkland warriors, my next project is a modern Royal Navy 'County' class Batch II DDG, specifically either HMS Glamorgan or HMS Antrim. I just got the Skywave/Hi-Mold kit for Devonshire (Batch 1 County DDG) and I'll be modifying it to batch II standards. As of now what I known to be notable differences are the exocet launchers at b-position; AKE-2 in lieu of AKE-1 at main mast, slightly different foremast. My questions are: 1. What other specific external parts that needs to be modified? 2. Deck colors: I notice that some parts on the deck are colored Deck Tan -- Am I right? 2. Deck colors: I saw pictures that RN cruisers and DDGs were painted green. Is this true or just a lighting effect distortion? I know that they are currently painted bluish dark grey. If they were once green, when did RN shifted to the current scheme? Thanks to all in advance. Regards, JTChen. http://members.fortunecity.com/akula88 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: CA139JOHNF@aol.com Subject: Re: USS CF ADAMS (DDG-2) Craig Bennet wrote: >>, I know that a group wanted to bring the class ship USS Charles Adams there to be a museum. But it didn't work out. << Craig, Where did you get your info? As of a couple weeks ago the Saginaw Valley Naval Ship Museum was still in the running for her. She wasn't stripped because she is in donation hold status. John Frohock -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "maeisen@pop.erols.com" Subject: "Unrealistic Paint Scheme" Folks: Regarding the issue of finishing models in "unrealistic" colors (such as a light gray), to allow details to shine through, I would note that many, maybe even most museum models in the U.S. (and elsewhere for that matter) that I have seen, are finished in a rather "plain" semi-gloss or gloss grey, not the actual camouflage worn by the ships during their operational service. They still look spectacular! If you choose to finish your models this way, you could always tell people that it is a model of a Gibbs and Cox model, and not a model of the actual ship! It's a hobby; enjoy! Yours truly, Mike Eisenstadt -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Lou Meszaros Subject: La Argentina Does anyone know where I can get a set of plans for La Argentina, an Argentinean Light Cruiser? Thank you, Lou -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "Leslie Brown" Subject: Re: 'K' Class Submarines There was an article on these boats (by our own John Lambert) in Warship No8. There are a number of photographs plus reduced scale versions of John's superb drawings. Regards Les Brown -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Reynaga, Tim@EDD" Subject: Ship scale question Eduardo, I too have striven for scale consistency in my plastic fleet. It makes it so much more convenient to display and compare vessels of different nations and eras if you use a constant scale. It also makes building a reserve of spare parts for upgrades, conversions or even repairs much easier. In actual practice, though, I think most of us are unable to resist straying all over the place with scales in pursuit of interesting subjects, unusually good kits, gifts from the kids or whatever. (I have ship models ranging from 1/35 to 1/2400 scale, for example.) Nevertheless, most of us have a favorite scale which we try to stick to as much as possible. Probably the best scales using your criteria would be 1/600, 1/400, or 1/350. Some things to consider: * In 1/600 there are a bunch of capital ships available from Airfix which generally good to excellent quality and inexpensive. A few other companies also make this scale; Heller makes a very nice Forrestal, Arii has Yamato/Musashi and Revell makes some (North Carolina/Washington, Bismarck/Tirpitz, Scharnhorst/Gneisenau, Titanic, Queen Mary) in 1/570 scale, which is pretty close. Aftermarket photoetch and even some affordable resin upgrade parts are readily available for many capital types from White Ensign Models and Gold Medal Models. This scale is great for a beginner as it offers the opportunity to build a wide variety of good kits inexpensively, so you can afford to make mistakes. * 1/400 scale WWII capital ships are primarily limited to Heller; mostly German, French, and British for capital units. US and Japanese ships are notably absent from this line. Heller ships are generally accurate in outline but with rather simplified details, and these kits frequently go in and out of production. Lee(?) has Iowas in 1/400, Revell makes a USS Arizona in 1/426. Hasegawa makes a few in 1/450, but these are noticeably smaller. 1/400 scale kits are significantly bigger than 1/600, making for more impressive displays, but they're also somewhat more expensive (about $30-35 for a 1/400 Heller Bismarck as opposed to $10-15 Airfix 1/600 or Revell for $15-20 in 1/570.) Photoetch upgrades are available but more expensive than 1/600 (Gold Medal Models 1/600 Bismarck at about $15.00, their 1/400 Bismarck is about $36.00, for example) * 1/350 scale plastics are available mostly from Tamiya. They offer Yamato/Musashi, Bismarck/Tirpitz, Missouri/New Jersey, and King George V/Prince of Wales. ICM of Ukraine also promises a Essex and Hood in the future. Trumpeter has a USS Arizona for about $30 and the Italian cruiser Pola for $20. Kits in this scale aren't cheap (Tamiya's Bismarck goes for about $50-60 at present, Gold Medal Models photoetch for it is about $36.00) but they are far and away the most detailed and impressive of the lot. Surprisingly, due their superior kit engineering and larger size, they are also the easiest for a beginner to assemble. Whichever scale you go with, you can't really lose. Each has its advantages and disadvantages, but whichever one you end up going with, you are still building ship models, and that's way cool! Have fun with it, Tim -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "Poutre, Joseph A" Subject: Re: "Unrealistic" paint job I have a KGV painted in US measure 22 and a Deutchland painted Ms. 21. The deck gray on my US SAG ships is probably too dark, and the haze grays don't all match. So? We're building models, not real ships. If you wanted to paint HMS Ark Royal in Mountbatten Pink, I'd have no problem with it. The only exception is a model intended to represent a particular ship at a particular time, and even then there's some leeway. For instance, I have color photos, both personal and professional, of the ships in my SAG dio, and their color varies depending on angle, lighting, cloudiness, depth of water and possibly astrological alignments. Which one is correct? Should they all be identical? - Slight but noticible variations from ship to ship are more typical and realistic. Modelling should be fun. Don't let paint Nazis ruin it for you. You're building the models to demonstrate your skills at building, not painting in this case, and to compare the ships, so I'd say plain grey for both would suit your purposes. If you put it up for judging put a note by the dio explaining why you did what you did. Joe Poutre -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: "Harold Stockton" Subject: Re: "Unrealistic" paint job on the Bismarck After I waxed less than eloquent on the matter of "scaled" or toned-down paint for the particular paint chips for a model's scale, I did not mention that a person should also make sure that the particular colors chosen are indeed what the particular vessel actually appeared in, and not from some one else's imagination. A good case in point is the following link to what is a very common mistake on the very striking disruptive camouflage scheme for the battleship "Bismarck." Look at the following build article at: http://www.rollmodels.net/reviews/Bismarck/part02.htm In John Higgins build of Tamiya's 1/350 scale kit, he makes a particular point of painting the entire kit in Testors Model Master Light Sea Gray for the hull above the waterline and the superstructure, which is definitely wrong, even for this vessel's career upon her completion. The correct scheme for her early completion era would be a two tone scheme of the entire superstructure being painted in Hellgrau (RAL 7038), and the hull being painted in a locally mixed Mittegrau that was obtained by mixing a small amount of Dunkelblaugrau (RAL 7026) with large amounts of the pre/early war Hellgrau 50 (RAL 7001). By the time of the Rheinubung operation the Bismarck had her full disruptive scheme, which entailed the for and aft foreshortening area of the hull were painted in Dunkelgrau (RAL 7037), while the false bow and stern waves were done in white. The diagonal bands were never painted in the black and white as is so often shown in artwork and model form, but rather in the special "Norwegian" color of Mitteblaugrau (a rather bright mid-range blue that was not too dissimilar in tonal quality to the RAF and USN "Ocean Grey.") and the deck color yellow of Deckfarbe Gelb (RAL 1003). And, these hull marking areas were all carried down to the actual waterline and did not stop at the boot topping. Also, in W. W. William's article on the Bismarck's different colors that appeared in the November 1983 issue of ARMY AND NAVY MODELWORLD, he mentions that the entire crown areas and barrel tops of the main and all secondary weapons and turrets were painted in the Dunkelgrau (RAL 7037), and not just the very tops of the main turret areas. Mr. Williams also did an excellent article on the Sharnhorst's dappled superstructure that she wore during Operation "Cerubus." But, that is another story. In closing, painting a model in one's own choice of colors can be very fulfilling and pleasing to the imagination. But, if one's models are going to be entered into competition, it is advisable to get the basics right before we start to take a modeling judge to task for not doing our homework in the first place. Happy modeling and competition modeling are not necessarily mutually exclusive, just do the necessary research and, quote and document your sources. Harold Stockton -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: Randall.O'Malley@clarica.com Subject: WWII US Navy book recommendation If you want some great photos (b&w) of the US Navy in action in WWII then you should look at: Steichen at War by Christopher Phillips ISBN 0-8109-1639-8 This is an art quality book full of beautiful prints from the file of Edward Steichen's Naval Aviation Photographic Unit. Useful to the historian and the modeller, there are dozens of bright, crisp detail-packed pictures of everything from aircraft carriers to battleships and subs to land based Navy and Marine aircraft. Sailors and airmen are shown in action, on leave, and being buried at sea. The time period spans from Operation Torch to Tokyo Bay. There are some really good shots of carrier elevators and AA guns. Every photo is labelled with the ship's name, month and year and the photographer's name. As someone who studied professional photography in college and as an experienced modeller I give this book full marks. It can be borrowed from the Brampton Public Library in Brampton, Ontario, CANADA, and is probably available on the used market. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: john.baumann@talk21.com Subject: 1/72 Scale Subs, Mini-Subs & Figures HP-Models (Harald Popcke, Caspar-Baur-Str. 34, 46483 Wesel) was recently at a UK Show where I picked up a catalogue listing. The following kits are, or will be available: 1/72 Mini-Subs: Neger, Hecht, Biber, Seehund, Molch, Marder & Hai 1/72 Scale Waterline Models: U-Boot Typ XXIII: Out now U-Boot IIA, B, C, & D: due September 2001 U-Boot VII B U-47: due July 2001 U-Boot VII C & D: due August 2001 Kriegsmarine Figures in a set of 6 are out, three other sets of 10 due this year. Regards, John Baumann -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 22) From: Alan Simon Subject: Riverboat Robt. E. Lee Recently received this 1/163 Lindberg kit as gift. Normally am warship modeler, but kit appears challenging, despite Lindberg's characteristically "heavy-handed" molding. Any experience with warped parts, fit-up or other assembly problems? Any recommendations for accurizing/detailing (including info sources)? Thanks in advance for your comments. Alan Simon Atlanta, Ga -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 23) From: Marc Flake Subject: Italian Navy Book I came home today and found on my doorstep a package for which I had been expectantly waiting. It's a book called "Navi E Marinai Nella Seconda Guerra Mondaile." This is a *must have* book for anyone interested in the Italian Navy. Not only does it have a couple of hundred black and white photos, but it also has 32 color profiles of Italian ships and boats from crusiers on down to MAS boats. If, like me, you have been waiting for the sequel to "Regina Marina Italian Battleships of World War II," this is it. There are no color profiles of battleships in the newer book, that was taken care of in the earlier one. I don't mean to imply this is the *official* sequel -- it just seems that way. The only downside is that it is all in Italian. I have some Latin and a little more French, so I can puzzle out most of the stuff -- also, I have Bragadin's history of the Italian Navy in WW2, so using the dates on the photographs, I can figure out what battle is being illustrated. There are some incredible action shots with shell splashes taller than battleship and cruiser masts, the Italian view of a B-17 raid on a harbor, and a huge mushroom cloud emanating from the Roma after it was hit with a guided missle. There are camouflage patterns galore for all type of ships and boats, including the little auxilliary cruisers like the Barletta and the submarines. One of the authors is Erminio Bagnasco, who also co-authored the Italian Battleships book and "Submarines of World War 2." The book is in a landscape format, like those two books and the Squadron In Action series. And it's an inch-and-a-half thick. I first saw this at Articles of War, who wanted about $40 for it. I did a search on AddAll and found a shop in Italy that was selling it for about $27. The shop owner offers free postage, if you accept the Economy Postage rate. I did and it took the book about 6 weeks to get to me via registered mail. He says it has taken as little time as three days to get to New York with that postage, but it usually takes 20 to 30 days. He offers other options, incuding 48-hour delivery via Fed-Ex, that he says is less than first class mail(which takes 7-10 days) for a book this size. You can contact Gian Paolo Strati at: LIBRERIA ATHENAEUM International Bookshop Via San Gallo 79 / R 50129 Firenze Tel/Fax + 39 055 4625122 athenaeum@galactica.it If you like Italian ships, you'll love this book. Marc Flake -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 24) From: "Rodney Dauteuil Jr." Subject: D+S USS Enterprise Somebody recently poste that this book may have been going for $19.95. I just bought mine and the printed retail price on the back cover is $14.95. This book may inspire me to complete my 1/144 scale Enterprise! Rod -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 25) From: Dave Shirlaw Subject: Varyag Model I have received a few enquiries about the Varyag model kit I saw in Oregon. HobbyTown USA Dave and Sharla Mansius, owners Clackamas Promenade 8952 SE Sunnyside Road Clackamas Oregon 97105 Phone (503) 652-5899 www.hobbytown.com Dave Shirlaw Editor, Seawaves Magazine www.seawaves.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 26) From: "Joseph Richardson" Subject: Weathering Hello all, I need your collective advice/wisdom on weathering products. I am completing a HUNT CLASS II model in 1/350 and a J CLASS in 1/700 and wish to weather them both showing the results of operating in the North Atlantic convoy environment. I have seen many products advertised in the Micro.Mark catalog, (Rustall, powders, pastel chalk), but don't want to experiment when the knowledge is out there! Would appreciate your comments, recommendations, encouragement. Thanks in advance, Joe Richardson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 27) From: JRKutina@webtv.net (John Kutina) Subject: 160 scale decals -- ship numbers I am doing a 160 scale diorama involving a WW II LST and several LCTs. Is there a supplier[s] that would have either 160 or 144 scale decals for white bow identification numbers? Thank you for any help on this. Regards, John - Seattle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 28) From: "Phil M. Gollin" Subject: HMS Khedive At the International Festival of the Sea at Portsmouth I was lucky enough to meet an ex-sailor who had been on HMS Khedive when she went to the far east towards the end of WW2 (February 1945). I had a nice chat and asked him what colour the flight-deck was. He replied that it was unpainted (or stained wood) ("just wood"). That's great for on escort carrier. Now the question is what colour is that ???? I was also fortunate to meet some of the reprobates from this board - very nice to see you all. Regards, Phil -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 29) From: Kurt Van Dahm Subject: Information needed Ahoy: A friend need help in finding plans and other information about this ship. His Father emigrated to the US from Germany aboard this ship. Need information/plans for the steamship ''Grosser Kurfurst'', built by F. S. Schichau, Danzig in 1899 for North German Lloyd of Bremen. Later [1917] seized by the U. S. renamed ''Aeolus'' then went to the Los Angeles S. S. Co. and renamed ''City Of LosAngeles''. scraped in Japan 1937. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks and take care, Kurt Van Dahm Westmont, IL NRG member -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 30) From: "Pletscher-Lenz-Schneider" Subject: Spanish battleship Pelayo - new model from Jadar Hi all I received the 1/700 Jadar model of the Spanish battleship Pelayo the other day. At a first look in the box, this seems to be a good kit. The parts are molded clean and sharply with a light tan resin. Detailing is very nice and looks pretty good. There is also a fret of PE parts with davits, railings and ladders, and other parts including a bridge platform with the railing attached to be bended up and the ladders attached to be bended down. The (seperate) railings have no "bottom line", so every strut has to be fixed separately. I guess this will be a hard job to do. A nice feature are the banks of the boats which are, framed by the oarlock, offered as PE parts to be fixed on the open boat's hulls. The building instructions (including painting instructions) are in Polish and English and contain a drawing which was taken from an article in the Polish magazine Okrety Wojenne 3/2000 (as quoted with this drawing) A closer look at the kit and this article in Okrety Wojenne, however, shows that it is not quite as good as it looked at first glance. The torpedonet spars are molded on the hull sides which I first thought was a fine feature. But as the hull sides are heavily rounded, the spars are too. So they should be cut off and replaced with strait rod. The drawing from Okrety Wojenne 3/2000 in the building instruction is a mix-up of the hull as in the original configuration and the midship battery as after the 1897/98 refit when the gun port before the wing barbette was closed. Fortunately the kit shows hull and battery in the after-refit configuration. There are, however, some details which are not correct: Instead of the fighting tops and open platforms which are correctly shown in the drawing, there are two tun-type lookout stands at the masts of the kit. The searchlight platforms at the masts are way too small, and the searchlights are simply molded to the mast side. All those beautiful davits are shaped inccorectly, as far as I could see from the few photos in the article in Okrety Wojenne. None of them was of the gooseneck type. The fore pair of davits was of a soccer goal type (as correctly shown in the drawing) and the rest consisted of strait and bent-off bars. The hull section of the midship area should be more bell-shaped, and, according to a drawing in the article in Okrety Wojenne, the stern should be more protracted at the waterline. The admiral's walk is missing in the kit, although it is clearly visible on a photo in that article. It is however, also missing in the detail drawing of the stern in the after-refit configuration of this article. Nevertheless, especially when taking in acount that this is a debut, I still regard it as a good model. You can see a completed model on Jadar's wbsite at www.jadar.com.pl. Falk Pletscher -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Infomation -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "James Kloek" Subject: ROCON 22 ROCON 22 will be held on September 23 in Rochester, NY. ROCON is one of the longest running IPMS Contests and Shows in Western, NY, and draws entrants from all over upstate New York and southern Ontario. Entries in our ship categories have been steadily growing in the past few years, and all interested SMMLies are encouraged to attend and enter. We will have vendors (since Ted Paris lives in Rochester, ISW is always well represented) and a raffle. The show will be held at the 40 & 8 Club on University Avenue, doors open at 10, judging starts at 1:30. If you need directions or further information, please email me off list. Jim -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Leslie Brown" Subject: Small Warship SIG Website Issue 10 of our newsletter 'Escort' is now available on the Small Warships SIG website - www.brown.abelgratis.co.uk I hope you enjoy it! Les Brown -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "John Anderson" Subject: Kynda Class destroyer Have customer looking for a plastic scale not to important 1/700 or larger preferred any assistance would be for great help Thank You John Anderson West Coast 1/72nd -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume