Subject: SMML VOL 1407 Date: Fri, 09 Nov 2001 02:54:55 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Painting Brass 2: Re: Blank decal sheets for inkjets 3: Re: Torpedo A/C Short 186A???? 4: 1/2000 scale Bandai and Fuman ship models 5: Scale Anchor Chains.... 6: dust question 7: Re: H-P Models 8: Re: Fujimi Kitty Hawk 9: HP-Models 10: Sovremenny build review and info section 11: Re: Great Lakes Freighters 12: Re: Acryl II Marine Colors -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Mullins, David" Subject: Painting Brass I use a couple methods for prep of brass parts for painting. (1) If the parts are cast or delicate, soak the part in distilled white vinegar for 15 -20 min.. Handle the part w/ tweesers only (keeps finger oils off the part). This etches the surface slightly which improves adhesion. Rinse the part by imersing & swishing in distilled water, followed by a dip in DISTILLED alcohol ( absorbs water & de-oils the part). (2) If the parts are flat of strudy enough to take it, use 5/0 steel wool to remove the surface comtaminants. Blow off the part w/ compressed air. A dip & swish in laquer thinner cleans the part (use the tweesers!). (3) Adhesion can be improved using the "blackners" found in model railroad shops to blacken rail, brass locos, etc. Blackners micro-etch the surface & the "black coating" helpd adhesion. Tweesers & gloves needed here. Make SURE you rinse off the blackner completely using the method in the instructions. (4) Dry the part after immersion in any fluid w/ a hairdryer. Pay close attention to crevices & places that hold fluids. (5) Preheat the part w/ a hairdriver to improve adhesion. (6) I prime prepared brass parts w/ Floquil Model Railroad metal primer ( laquer based "original" type). Allow this to dry for several days before overcoating to allow the solvents to escape. Overcoat w/ enamel or acrylics as desired. Hope this helps! David Mullins Amarillo, TX -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Blank decal sheets for inkjets I noticed that Micro Mark sells blank decal sheets made to work with inkjet printers. I don't know how well they work, or if they work at all. I have heard on this site and others that inkjet ink doesn't adhere well to normal decal paper. Just passing on what I saw in the MM catalogue. Rusty White 2003 IPMS/USA National Convention Chairman OKC IN 2003! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Les Pickstock Subject: Re: Torpedo A/C Short 186A???? The Gremlins have crept back in. Should, of course, read Short 184. I was getting it confused with something else. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Lkjohnson214@aol.com Subject: 1/2000 scale Bandai and Fuman ship models Hi, I am trying to track down some of the older Bandai and newer Fuman ship models in 1/2000 scale.Yes, they are small, but quite nice and fit easily into my budget and space constraints. And its a handy scale for scratchbuilding and casting. You should see the Carl Vinson and Wasp I am working on now) I have over a hundred kits but still need some to fill the gaps in my collection, namely Japanese cruisers, Kongo, Shokaku, Enterprise, North Carolina/Washington and Essex(the more Essex kits the better as I would like to build the whole class and do some conversions to illustrate the various mods done to the class). If any one knows where I can find any of these, drop me a line. Many thanks LD Johnson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Pacific NW Aerospace Subject: Scale Anchor Chains.... Hello,, Does anyone have any suggestions on what to use for replacement 1/350 & 1/429anchor chains and where to obtain such material? Thanks, Bob -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Douglas G. MacAhonic" Subject: dust question Hi all. I find the best way to clean dust off the few models I have on shelves (most are in a glass cabinet) is with a compressed air can. These are generally bought at computer stores and are used to clean the dust out of the tower, keyboard etc. They come with a fine tube to attach to the spout for small areas but you have to practice as to not damage your model. I keep a few inches away when I do it and also clean them frequently. I have seen some models with thicker coats of dust than paint on them. Regards Doug -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Mike Leonard" Subject: Re: H-P Models Henry Chen wrote - >> There seems to be quite a few interesting resin ship kits by H-P. Can you share some of your experiences on the qualities of these ship models? Or any lead as to any review articles on internet. << I recently got the 1/700 pre-Dreadnought German battleship Schleswig-Holstein, ca. 1939, and it's a beautiful kit. Length is nine inches, beam about an inch and a quarter, resin parts are perfectly cast (no air bubbles and very little excess to remove). Instructions are in German only but diagrams are easy to follow. Does not include any brass. A generic set of paper flags are provided, but they're the type from which the swastika has been purged. There is a color profile of this ship in Tony Gibbons' "The Complete Encyclopedia of Battleships" (1983), showing a rather fantastic looking camouflage pattern in shades of green and grey from "early in World War II". None of the photos of the ship seem to indicate if this has any relation to reality. Mike Alexandria, VA USA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: annobon4@aol.com Subject: Re: Fujimi Kitty Hawk Hi Concerning the request about the USS Kitty Hawk kit by Fujimi. It displays the ship as she was in 1998. So there is alot of domes on it. It proabley looks the same today as she did back in '98. Also I was just reading Popular Mechanics. The idea of building a new Titanic 2 ocean liner has died as there is no money to do it. All interested parties abandoned it. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Bill Oreto" Subject: HP-Models I purchased the HP 1/700 Arizonia. I have not built the kit as of yet, but I was impressed in what I saw. Instructions were better than I expected (though some have panned them unjustly and I have seen far worse) and kit molding was equally good. Its comparable to Samek casting quality and detail. I'm a intermediate builder so I don't "nit pick" a kit. I look for accuracy, ease of building, clean casted parts and decent instructions. The HP Arizonia "fit the bill" I can not speak for the quality of other HP offerings. The kits are pricey but I do plan to take the "plunge" and go for their other USN selections when budgets permit. The HP kits are available at Pacific Front and NNT, both fine dealers. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: AAA Hobby Subject: Sovremenny build review and info section I have posted the first photos of my quick build review of the new Trumpeter Sovremenny kit, along with numerous photos and ships data at http://www.aaahobby.com/sovremenny.html James Corley AAA Hobby Supply email: aaahobby@earthlink.net -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Doug Wilde" Subject: Re: Great Lakes Freighters No, but... Have you seen the collection at the Lake Erie Islands Historical Society at Put-in-Bay? http://www.leihs.org/ Go down to the link for the model boat collection. They have photographs of all their models. A wonderful collection built by one individual, all to the same scale, following the development of commercial shipping on the Great Lakes. Contains the only model of Seeandbee that I've been able to find. Well worth the ferry ride over, if ever in that part of Ohio (or SE Michigan). Also see the Perry's Victory and Peace Memorial, third tallest National Monument in the US. I wonder what the fourth tallest is? Doug Wilde -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Sean D. Hert" Subject: Re: Acryl II Marine Colors >> While I can't tell you the date of the release of these paints, I CAN comment on the report in FSM in which Testors claims these paints were developed in consultation with Snyder & Short. The "consultation" consisted of Testors contacting Randy Short to inform him that they were going to release a line of paints based on the S&S chips. That's not consultation in my book, and I will be forwarding a letter of clarification to FSM in that regard. It was simply a large company telling a small firm what whas going to happen. This situation is similar to Model Expo's line of paints, which they developed after buying one each of our paint chip sets and informing us that they were going to do so. To give credit to Model Expo, they later also added our paint chip sets to their stock. The ONLY line of paints developed in consultation with, and direct involvement of, Snyder & Short is the White Ensign Models "Colourcoats" line. << Wow. Well, that explains why I hadn't heard anything about it here before then! Thanks for the clairification John. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume