Subject: SMML VOL 1408 Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2001 00:13:34 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Some good reference material on German Warships 2: Re: decals 3: Turbinia 4: Request for info on scale anchor chains 5: Re: Blank decal sheets for inkjets 6: Re: Painting photo etch parts 7: Torpedo colors 8: Re: Scale anchor chain 9: Metal Black 10: Priming Brass PE 11: More Varyag information, Bosporus pictures 12: Russian/Soviet carriers - 'where are they now?' 13: HP Models - Schleswig-Holstein -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Part 3 of the Tamiya Bismarck w/GMM PE is Online -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: NEVENGER@aol.com Subject: Some good reference material on German Warships I just wanted to say that I just got in 2 books that I ordered from Japan on German warships. They are from a company called Delta Publishing and most all of the text is in Japanese, but can you say loaded with pictures. They even had a few I had never seen before (I have about 80 navel books so I think this is pretty good). Opps almost forgot the name of the books are German Surface Ships of WW II. Of note there are 4 books in the series and I only got the first 2. I will be getting the last 2 as soon as I can. The books are about 160+ pages each with 1 to 3 pictures a page. Some are even in color at the front of the books. In the back they do some technical data stuff with drawings (in English). Sincerely, Rich -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Mjojrr@aol.com Subject: Re: decals That was very interesting about utiliziing ALPS Printer for making Decals. However, I don't need to make many deacls, Is there any place I can send a picture and have a sheet of decals made? I need the Decals made in a very small scale, because they will be used on 1/700 scale ships. RETLOU -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: david_l._miller@ccmail.wiu.edu Subject: Turbinia Last night I saw a show on the development of warships on PBS. I was fascinated by the material they had on the Turbina. This was the first ship to ever use a steam turbine for propulsion. I think it is a very attractive ship! This morning I found a few photos and sketches on the web. Taubman does not have a plan set listed for the Turbinia. It would seem that there should be plans available for such an attractive and historical ship. Does anyone know where or if plans are available? Dave Miller -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: JRKutina@webtv.net (John Kutina) Subject: Request for info on scale anchor chains Check your local shopping mall and usually you will find a vendor that sells inexpensive gold/silver colored chain necklaces - usually bought by teenagers. Spray them or use a co;lor marker pen to get the color you want. John Kutina Seattle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Bruno Gire" Subject: Re: Blank decal sheets for inkjets I tried last summer the Micro Mark blank decal sheets designed for inkjet printers. This works well at last with Canon and Epson printers. The printing has to be protected after (I spray two coats of satin acrylic varnish). Standard blank as well as inkjet designed sheets both work perfectly with my Alps MD 1000 dry inks printers : I can even print white and metallized colors, and - more useful- use the overlay function to have white as an undercoat. This is great for making red hinomarus to be laid on a green camouflaged wing - for planes - , making red/white parking strips to be laid on dark grey carrier decks or more generally any pattern to be laid on a dark surface. Bruno Gire Bordeaux, France -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Painting photo etch parts >> I use a couple methods for prep of brass parts for painting. (1) If the parts are cast or delicate, soak the part in distilled white vinegar for 15 -20 min.. Handle the part w/ tweesers only (keeps finger oils off the part). This etches the surface slightly which improves adhesion. Rinse the part by imersing & swishing in distilled water, followed by a dip in DISTILLED alcohol ( absorbs water & de-oils the part). (2) If the parts are flat of strudy enough to take it, use 5/0 steel wool to remove the surface comtaminants. Blow off the part w/ compressed air. A dip & swish in laquer thinner cleans the part (use the tweesers!). (3) Adhesion can be improved using the "blackners" found in model railroad shops to blacken rail, brass locos, etc. Blackners micro-etch the surface & the "black coating" helpd adhesion. Tweesers & gloves needed here. Make SURE you rinse off the blackner completely using the method in the instructions. (4) Dry the part after immersion in any fluid w/ a hairdryer. Pay close attention to crevices & places that hold fluids. (5) Preheat the part w/ a hairdriver to improve adhesion. (6) I prime prepared brass parts w/ Floquil Model Railroad metal primer (laquer based "original" type). Allow this to dry for several days before overcoating to allow the solvents to escape. Overcoat w/ enamel or acrylics as desired. << David, I can't believe you go all that trouble just to apply photo etched parts! Hey, if it works for you great. It must take you a year to build one model going that extensive route for all PE parts. You don't need to prep PE brass in any way for painting. Using steel wool or anything else will inevitably damage the delicate parts. There's just no need to do that. Immersing them in solvents of any kind does no good either. The photo etcher by law must thoroughly rinse away ALL chemicals used in the etching process from the sheets before they leave the factory. Photo etching uses very toxic chemicals in the process, (that's why PE costs so much) so they MUST be cleaned away or the photo etcher opens themselves up to potential litigation or fines from OSHA. Heating the parts in any fashion could severely weaken the parts. Half Hard Brass is a soft alloy with a very good memory (it stays exactly where it's bent). Being such a soft alloy, heat will weaken them. The parts need only be AIRBRUSHED one or two THIN coats of paint. Undercoating only thickens the delicate parts, or could fill the voids on small details like radar. I have NEVER had a single problem with paint failing to adhere to PE parts. Paint will flake away from every bend and cut. There's no way to prevent that. That must be where this paint adhesion wives tale must have started. Don't brush paint the parts unless absolutely necessary. Using a paintbrush can easily fill the voids or thicken the delicate parts. If brush painting is the only way, use well THINNED paint. I don't where this preparation for painting PE stuff started. It just isn't necessary. Rusty White Flagship Models Inc. Purchase on line with your Visa/Master Card http://okclive.com/flagship/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Paul Leugers Subject: Torpedo colors What would be the color of the torpedos used on a US destroyer in 1944. Different colors on the head and the body? And were the interiors of the torpedo tubes painted, or natural metal? Paul L -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Keith Bender" Subject: Re: Scale anchor chain Hi SMMLies, I been using a brand called "Builders in Scale". You can find it in the Walthers Model Railroad catalog. They have brass and blackened chain in 12, 15 and 40 LPI. I also use some from another catalog that has many different sizes. I use 15 LPI for the anchors of the Tamiya 1:350 Missouri's and 40 LPI for the bow parravane down haul chain. I must go did it out of my files then I'll report on it tomorrow, see you then, Keith -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "John Rule" Subject: Metal Black As was said in yesterday's SMML >> Adhesion can be improved using the "blackners" found in model railroad shops to blacken rail, brass locos, etc. Blackners micro-etch the surface & the "black coating" helpd adhesion. Tweesers & gloves needed here. Make SURE you rinse off the blackner completely using the method in the instructions. << If you need a cheap version of the metal blackener, try Wall-Mart or equivalent and ask for Silenium Disulphide in the sports section. Once the puzzled look has disappeared from the clerks face, explain that it is used to coat gun barrels (as in shotguns). In the US you can probably buy it 45 gallon drums but up here in peaceful old Canada yo will have to buy small bottles, but they are pretty cheap. Make sure you clean the brass thoroughly first! Sincerely John Rule -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "VanBuren, Peter M" Subject: Priming Brass PE I have had good luck with the goofy-named Mr. Metal Primer by Gunze-Sanyo. The stuff comes in a bottle is not actually primer in the sense of paint. Instead, the solution is of water-like consistency and seems to be more of a mild acid that lightly etches the brass or stainless steel then evaporates. Since it all but disappears in the evaporation process there is no problem with building up multiple layers of primer and then paint on delicate parts. I use an old brush as the stuff seems to cause bristles to kind of fluff out. You do need to be careful that you don't bend up delicate brass then with such a brush. I have found that while Mr. Metal Primer does work well on delicate parts like railings and radars, it is less effective on broader flat surfaces, like rotor blades, so you may still need to use a paint primer there. Peter -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: doug brown Subject: More Varyag information, Bosporus pictures Greetings, If you are following the Varyag story (being towed from Ukraine to China, purportedly for casino/resort use), here are two good links with pictures. The BBC article has shots of Varyag in Bosporus: http://kpnews.com/main/10044/ Varyag emerges from storm Kyiv News Nov 8 2001 http://news.bbc.co.uk/hi/english/world/europe/newsid_1632000/1632156.stm Giant vessel shuts the Bosphorus BBC Nov 01 2001 These sites have interesting background on the Varyag transfer - only time will tell whether it ends up as scrap or another Chinese museum ship like Kiev and Minsk. The purchasers say they intend to use as casino/resort at Macau, but there is some doubt on this. http://www.terravista.pt/aguaalto/2088/feer04.html http://www.veriomail.com/vpweb/news_archives/1998/military/mch98001.htm Doug -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: doug brown Subject: Russian/Soviet carriers - 'where are they now?' Greetings, The Varyag-under-tow story encouraged me to update on the destinations of related Russian/Soviet naval classes. Based on information from www.hazegray.org and other sites, the following list seems to be the story. One missing piece is the destination of Novorossiysk -- hazegray says that it was scrapped in South Korea, but a Jane's Defence reference says that it was transferred to China for museum use, much like Minsk and Kiev. Anyone know and have a reference on the actual final destination of Novorossiysk? Moskva Class Project 1123 Helicopter Cruisers Moskva -- Built by Nikolayev. Laid down 15 Dec 1962, launched 14 Jan 1964, completed 25 Dec 1967. Towed to India for scrapping 6/1997. Leningrad -- Built by Nikolayev. 15 Jan 1965, launched 31 July 1968, completed 2 June 1969. Scrapped in Greece starting 9/1995. Kiev Class Project 1143 VTOL Cruisers Kiev -- Built by Nikolayev. Laid down 21 July 70, launched 26 Dec 1972, completed 28 Dec 1975. Sold for scrapping 2000 and arrived in China for breaking up 29 August 2000. Sold to Chinese developer for warship museum. http://english.peopledaily.com.cn/200104/19/eng20010419_68082.html April 19, 2001 Former Russian Carrier to Stay in Chinese Park Minsk -- Built by Nikolayev. Laid down 28 Dec 1972, launched 30 Sept 1975, completed 27 Sept 1978. Towed to China 8/1998 for use as a casino/entertainment complex. Now part of "Minsk World", Shenzhen http://abcnews.go.com/sections/travel/DailyNews/Minskworld000928.html http://english.peopledaily.com.cn/200005/09/eng20000509_40374.html Novorossiysk -- Built by Nikolayev. Laid down 30 Sept 1975, launched 26 Dec 1978, completed 14 Aug 1982. Final destination? Hazegray>> Arrived at Pohang, South Korea for scrapping 18 Jan 1996; scrapped 1997. Jane's Defence Weekly, quoted in London Times>> "The Novorossiysk was sold directly to China for scrap in May 2000 allegedly to become another 'tourist carrier'." Baku class - improved Kiev Gorshkov (ex-Baku) Project 1143.4 -- Laid down 12/78, launched 1 April 1982, completed 11 Dec 1987. Renamed Gorshkov 4 Oct 1990. To be transferred to India. http://www.milparade.com/2000/42/05_01.shtml Kuznetsov Class Aircraft Carrier Project 1143.5 Kuznetsov (ex-Tbilisi, ex-Leonid Brezhnev, ex-Riga) Built by Nikolayev. In service for delivery voyage 21 Jan 1991. Full operational capability 1995. Now in service, Northern Fleet. Varyag (ex-Riga) Ownership was transferred to the Ukraine and the ship was laid up unmaintained, then stripped. Under tow to China as of Nov 2001, heading for Suez Canal as of Nov 8. Purchasers say they intend to use as casino/resort at Macau, but some doubt on this. http://www.terravista.pt/aguaalto/2088/feer04.html http://www.veriomail.com/vpweb/news_archives/1998/military/mch98001.htm Ulyanovsk Class nuclear aircraft carrier Ulyanovsk Laid down at Nikolayev 25 Nov 1988, formally cancelled 1 Nov 1991, scrapped starting 4 Feb 1992. Doug -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Pletscher-Lenz-Schneider" Subject: HP Models - Schleswig-Holstein Hi Mike >> I recently got the 1/700 pre-Dreadnought German battleship Schleswig-Holstein, ca. 1939, and it's a beautiful kit << At a first look into the box, the parts may look nice and pretty. But when it comes to accuracy, this is the worst model I've ever seen. Almost every part has to be corrected or replaced to get an accurate model. The model also doesn't present Schleswig-Holstein in her WW 2 fitting, but as she appeared before her 1936 re-building. If you want to know more, you can read my article in Plastic Ship Modeler No. 22 on building this model. The Schleswig-Holstein is surly one of the worst HP models. But the problem is the same with all HP models I have. At first glance they look quite good, but when it comes to building an accurate model ... Falk Pletscher -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Brent Theobald Subject: Part 3 of the Tamiya Bismarck w/GMM PE is Online Howdy! I was able to post the 3rd installment of John Higgins' build of the Tamiya 1/350th Bismarck with Gold Medal Models photo etch recently. This installment is basically a photo essay of how to work with pe. It is our hope that this will help other modelers learn how to use pe. Or at least encourage them to try it. There will be one more installment in this series dealing with the finishing and weathering of the model. http://www.rollmodels.net/reviews/Bismarck/part03.htm Also, I am currently looking for someone to build the Arizona with GMM PE and another with Tom's Modelworks PE. Please contact me at: mailto:brent@rollmodels.com. Have a good one and remember to have fun! Brent http://www.rollmodels.com Now with searchable catalog! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume