Subject: SMML VOL 1412 Date: Wed, 14 Nov 2001 00:52:03 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Turbinia 2: Re: Painting Photo-Etch Parts 3: New question, flight deck crews 4: Re: Removing PE parts from the sheet 5: DD torpedo tube interior color 6: Painting brass 7: USS Oklahoma planes 8: USS Detroit 9: Re: Painting Photo-Etch Parts -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: OzMods new arrivals -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Chris Herron" Subject: Turbinia >> The Turbinia is in the Science Museum, Newcastle-upon-Tyne located at the south-east corner of the Town Moor just north of the city centre. The best pedestrian access is from the south via a tunnel which starts at the intersection of Claremont Road and Queen Victoria Road. There is a parking area off Claremont just west of the tunnel entrance. The nearest Metro station is Jesmond to the east. It an easy walk but pedestrians have to somehow get across the multi-lane Great North Road and I am not sure of the location of convenient crossing places. Perhaps there is a "Geordie" out there who can advise. It is many years since I visited the little ship. << Hi there, Just in case anyone is planning on visiting the Turbinia, it was moved from the Town Moor site a few years back to rejoin the rest of the museum. It's a bit more convenient to get to being on Blandford Street, which is about a ten minute walk from the Central Station. Well worth a visit (and I think it is free to get in to aswell ?), with some fantastic builders models on display there also. I can remember being taken around there as a kid by my Grandfather as he used to work at the Naval Yard at Elswick. He was very proud of the countless ships that he'd been involved with on the Tyne from the 1930s through to his retirement in 1970, and had the odd story or two to tell! Definitely worth the trip! Chris -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: Painting Photo-Etch Parts >> Then how do you remove the parts from the sheet without disturbing the paint? << I know a lot of people are going to cringe at this because you are supposed to cut the parts loose with a sharp blade on a hard surface. I don't, I always is a very small sharp pair of sissors. If you're careful how you go about it the only place the paint is disturbed is where you actually make the cut. I let that go until after the parts are installed on the model and then touch up those tiny bare metal spots with a small brush. When the job is done, I can't see where I touched them up. Cheers, Bob -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: New question, flight deck crews A fellow modeler asked me this question at our last meeting and I was unable to answer it. My own modeling interests are for an earlier period and while I served during the Korean War, I was a long way from aircraft carriers. The question is:"Did US Navy flight deck crews wear specific colored jerseys in the Korean War period, and if so, what were they?" I'm sure someone on this list can answer this for me. Cheers, Bob Santos -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Removing PE parts from the sheet >> Hi Bob; Then how do you remove the parts from the sheet without disturbing the paint? << Rusty here, I AIRBRUSH the entire sheet the most prevalent color of the ship (Haze Gray in most instances). Any parts that need to be painted different colors can be by brush painting. However, USE VERY THIN PAINT to prevent clogging of the delicate parts. Removing the parts is simple. I use a SHARP no. 11 Xacto knife and blade on a hard surface such as glass. Place the blade closest to the part itself, then put your index finger on top of it to keep it from becoming a missile. WEAR EYE PROTECT WHILE DOING THIS! When you hear the characteristic "snap" the cut has been made. Carefully lift your finger (the part may be stuck on your finger) and apply the part using electrician's tweezers. You will have to touch up the parts at every cut and bend, but this is easily done on each part as you go along. Don't wait until all the PE is applied to do your touchups. You will be forever finding spots you missed when the light hits them just right. So do them as you go along. Hope this helps. Rusty White 2003 IPMS/USA National Convention Chairman OKC IN 2003! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: BSteinIPMS@aol.com Subject: DD torpedo tube interior color >> I am still working on a 1/96 Patterson(DD392) and need to know the color of the torpedos and interior of the tubes. << During the time I was building a 1/192 model of a FLETCHER class destroyer, USS KIDD (DD 661), I attemped to wring this information out of a large number of sources, including visits to ships mounting the original hardware. The best I could come up with is this: the interior of the torpedo tubes mounted on the launcher were a polished steel color, well greased, not painted. This minimized friction between the torpedo and the tube. The torpedoes themselves, I believe, were a dull bronze color. Those with a high explosive warhead had this section painted flat (non-specular) black; those with a practice warhead had this section painted Insignia Yellow. This is what you'll see on the USS CASSIN YOUNG (DD 793) at the Charlestown Navy Yard in Boston. Bob Steinbrunn Minneapolis Member, Nautical Research Guild Tin Can Sailors IPMS/USA #3345 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "John W. Wressell" Subject: Painting brass I seem to recall some discussion in the last month or so on painting brass. if anyone has some suggestions I'd appreciate hearing them. Thanks, John Wressell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Fernando, Yohan" Subject: USS Oklahoma planes Hello, I was wondering if anyone could give me a quick rundown on the general painting scheme of the Oklahoma's floatplanes around September '41. Thanks, Yohan Fernando -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Roger/Sharon Torgeson" Subject: USS Detroit Does anyone know of were I can get two US triple torpedo tubes in 1/350 scale? I want to do a conversion of the IS USS Detroit to what it look like in 1944. Is it just me, or does it seem that the daily number of postings on SMML is way down? Roger Torgeson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Darren Subject: Re: Painting Photo-Etch Parts >> Then how do you remove the parts from the sheet without disturbing the paint? << Sharp #11 xacto on a hard surface, press firmly and it pops right off with a tiny area to touch up. I've done 2 and 3 colour frets this way, e.g. titanic stairs - brown steps, mask then white rails. Small scissors also work. The key to remember here is that when airbrushing, use a light coat with only enough to cover the brass, heavy paint peels off easier. Light coats also deter bleeding under masking tape. For those of you who brush, you're on your own! Just my 2 cents worth from a guy who never washes or preps PE or styrene. Darren Scannell -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Greg Anderson" Subject: OzMods new arrivals NOW AVAILABLE! OzMod's Injection Moulded 1/144 F-86 SABRE Injection moulded! Detailed cockpit! Detailed wheel wells and doors! Moulded in dark grey styrene! Ultra Clear Vacform Canopy (open and closed provided - 2 sets supplied in kit)! Decals for USAF Korean War and RAF mid-fifties! PRICE Aus$13.75 (plus Aus$3 posted within Australia = TOTAL Aus$16.75) (Aus$7 posted overseas = TOTAL Aus$20.75) (Take advantage of the low Australian dollar. Aus$1 = US$0.52 or UK£0.34) STILL AVAILABLE! BUT SELLING OUT FAST! OzMod's Injection Moulded 1/144 Mig-15UTI Injection moulded! Detailed cockpit! Moulded in dark grey styrene! Ultra Clear Vacform Canopy (2 supplied in kit)! Decals for North Vietnam Air Force and Polish Air Force! PRICE Aus$12.65 (plus Aus$3 posted within Australia = TOTAL Aus$15.65) (Aus$7 posted overseas = TOTAL Aus$19.65) (Take advantage of the low Australian dollar. Aus$1 = US$0.52 or UK£0.34) OTHER OZMOD'S PRODUCTS (Prices as of November 2001) COMPLETE KITS KIT DESCRIPTION PRICE OMKIT4801 1/48 DHC-4 (C-7) Caribou (vacs, resin, metal, decals) $118.80 OMKIT14401 1/144 DHC-4 Caribou (vacs, resin, metal, decals) $ 38.50 OMKIT14402 1/144 Mig-15UTI (injection moulded, decals) $ 12.65 OMKIT14403 1/144 F-86 Sabre (injection moulded, decals) $ 13.75 OMKIT3501 1/350 HMAS Vampire (Daring Class Destroyer) (resin, p/etch, decals) $143.00 OMKIT6001 1/600 HMAS/HMS Duchess (Daring Class Destroyer) (resin, decals) $ 38.50 OMKIT6002 1/600 HMAS Voyager (Daring Class Destroyer) (resin, decals) $ 38.50 OMKIT7001 1/700 HMAS Vampire (Daring Class Destroyer) (resin, p/etch, decals) $ 38.50 OMKIT7002 1/700 HMAS Vendetta (Daring Class Destroyer) (resin, p/etch, decals) $ 38.50 COVERSION PACKS OZCONV4801 1/48 C-130A Hercules Conversion (resin) $ 17.60 OZCONV4802 1/48 Douglas A-26K Invader Conversion (resin) $ 15.40 OZCONV4803 1/48 F-111 Wing Tanks (resin) $ 15.40 OZCONV4804 1/48 F-111 Pave Tack (resin) $ 4.95 OZCONV4805 1/48 RAAF Macchi MB326H 90Gal Tanks (resin) $ 4.95 OZCONV4806 1/48 RAAF Macchi MB326H Gun Pods (resin) $ 4.95 OZCONV7201 1/72 C-130A Hercules Conversion (resin) $ 14.30 OZCONV7202 1/72 RAAF CH-47C Chinook (resin) $ 11.00 OZCONV7203 1/72 "Early Warning" Constellation Conversion (resin) $ 17.60 OZCONV7204 1/72 Northrop F-5 Wing Tip Tanks (resin) $ 2.86 OZCONV7205 1/72 Douglas DC-3 Passenger Door (resin) $ 2.86 OZCONV7206 1/72 RAAF Macchi MB326H 90Gal Tanks (resin) $ 3.31 OZCONV14401 1/144 Boeing 727-100 fuselage (resin) $ 17.60 OZBASEXX-1 1/40,000,000! Australia (Display base) (resin) $ 6.82 NOTE: Prices given above are in Australian Dollars (Aus$ = US$0.52; UK£0.34) Payment can be made by phone, fax or E-mail with Visa, Mastercard or Bankcard - or by post with cheque, bankdraft or money order. Please make cheques, bankdrafts or money orders payable to "OZMODS AUSTRALIAN MODELS". POSTAGE & HANDLING CHARGES WITHIN AUSTRALIA: 1/48 Caribou or 1/350 Vampire (for one kit, insured postage) $20.00 Kits/conversion packs valued up to $15.00 $6.00 Kits/conversion packs valued $15 to $40 $8.50 Kits/Conversion packs valued $40 to $80 $14.00 (insured) Kits/Conversion packs valued $80 to $120 $20.00 (insured) Overseas postage and handling charges available on request. Order now! Phone, fax or E-mail your order - Payment by Visa, Bankcard, Mastercard - Or post your order with Cheque or Money Order. E-MAIL OZMODS NOW FOR FULL PRODUCT BROCHURE! After SCALEDOWN 1/48 F-111 Upgrades and Conversion Sets??? OzMods can provide you with details. OZMODS AUSTRALIAN MODELS & PRINTPRO PUBLISHING SERVICES Proprietor: Greg Anderson Postal Address: PO Box 1083, Gailes, QLD 4300, Australia. Phone: (07) 3424 1724. Fax: (07) 3389 0923. Mobile: 0421 044 824. E-mail: mailto:ozmods@optushome.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume