Subject: SMML VOL 1416 Date: Sun, 18 Nov 2001 01:40:47 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Zertorers 2: Re: Resin molds 3: Re: Graf Zeppelin and Aquilla 4: Re: Resin molds 5: Re: Turned Brass Barrels 6: Re: Resin Molds 7: Re: Resin molds 8: M. Ainsworth's New 1/1200 ship modeling book 9: Re: MKL Soviet river gunboat project 186 10: Re: Turned barrels for 1/350th/1/700th scale guns 11: Re: resin molds 12: Re: Cutting PE -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Classic Warships 1/350 Heavy Cruisers in Stock -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Peter Chant" Subject: Zertorers Can a Kriegsmarine, or German, expert please help me. In the Z23 Class/Type 1936A (Mob) and Type 1936B (Mob) what does Mob stand for? Peter Chant Plymouth UK -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Mike Settle Subject: Re: Resin molds >> I have a few pieces that I have scratchbuilt and would like to mold and copy in resin rather than tediously scratchbuilding each copy. Is there a good compound to make the molds out of that will hold up. I tried dense modeling clay but there was some loss in tecture when I made the resin copies. Any help would be appreciated. << Sean, there is no substitute for a good, high quality silicone. There are several brands on the market, but I have had good luck with the Dow Corning brand. Alumilite carries them, as well as a good line of resins. Check it out at: http://www.alumilite.com/ Mike Settle -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "D.Przezdziecki" Subject: Re: Graf Zeppelin and Aquilla Of course all "what if scenarios" suffer from the problem that we tend to introduce some new factors but keep rest of the history stay as it really developed. Non the less Having just watched rerun of "Hood Story" and "Search for the Bismarck" on the History Channel it strucked me that if Germany could extend their air cover much further with the use of an aircraft carrier than the chase for the Bismarck might have ended quite differently. While Bisnarck AA guns could not cope with Swordfish biplanes even a couple of Me 109 should have made a short work of shooting down the whole lot of them and so allowing Bismarck to reach Brest safely. Interesting question would be this: if the German carrier would have been made opertional quite a lot of British carrier borne planes would have been made useless immediatelly. Would have British adopted American TBs already than in service (even as a stop-gap) or would they persisted with trying to develop their own designs?? Regards D.P -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: Resin molds >> I have a few pieces that I have scratchbuilt and would like to mold and copy in resin rather than tediously scratchbuilding each copy. Is there a good compound to make the molds out of that will hold up. I tried dense modeling clay but there was some loss in tecture when I made the resin copies. Any help would be appreciated. << Sean, I'm currently doing a major conversion of the 1/350 New Jersey to the amphibious assault hypothetical version proposed in 1981 by Howard Pulver. So I'm having to make copies of the 5" guns, Sea Sparrow box launchers, CIWSs, captain's launch and numerous other fittings from my DML Ingersoll and Tamiya Enterprise kits. Anyway, I would suggest getting an Ace Resin molding kit from the company. They advertise in the classified section of FSM. It costs about $30.00 and comes with everything you'll need to make molds and cast parts, including instructions how do the whole thing. If you run out of RTV or resin, you can purchase extras of both from the same folks. This isn't the best resin I've ever used, but it works just fine for small to medium size parts. Don't let anyone give you grief about copyright infringement or any of that stuff. It's perfectly acceptable to make copies for your own personal models. Just don't sell the molds or copies of the parts to anyone and you'll be okay. Rusty White 2003 IPMS/USA National Convention Chairman OKC IN 2003! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Gernot Hassenpflug Subject: Re: Turned Brass Barrels >> Turned barrels for 1/350th/1/700th scale guns. Does anyone make those? << Pitroad also produces turned brass barrels. If you are interested in IJN ships then you have 14cm, 15.5cm, 20.3cm, 36cm,40.6cm, and 46cm available. Gernot Hassenpflug -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Vincent Mccullough" Subject: Re: Resin Molds >> ...Is there a good compound to make the molds out of that will hold up. I tried dense modeling clay but there was some loss in tecture when I made the resin copies. << You can use room temperature vulcanizing (RTV) rubber. It's a two part compound that you mix, and then pour in around your master. MicroMark sells it, along with instructions on how to use it. BTW, Don Preul has a trick that he uses here. He makes the boxes that you pour the liquid into out of Legos. You can make any size mold box quickly and dissasemble it when you are done. Attach the part to a "sprue" sticking out from the side of the box, suspending it halfway between the top and bottom of the box, so that when you pour the first half of the RTV mold it comes up to the halfway point on your master. Some of the guys in the Washington Ship Model Society are using this trick, and it works great. Vince McCullough -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "J. London" Subject: Re: Resin molds >> I have a few pieces that I have scratchbuilt and would like to mold and copy in resin rather than tediously scratchbuilding each copy. Is there a good compound to make the molds out of that will hold up. I tried dense modeling clay but there was some loss in tecture when I made the resin copies. Any help would be appreciated. << Try RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanised) rubber available through most good hobby stores but perhaps on special order due to limited (6 month) shelf life. This is a two-component silicone elastomer which cures at room temperature, usually overnight, with the catalyst provided. A fast-set catalyst (sold separately) is also available. You will need a plastic container - I make up a box out of plastic card - just large enough to take the master with about žin clearance from the sides, and another plastic container to mix the RTV and catalyst. Picks up the finest detail from the master and can be used over and over again. Not to be used with metal or wood so masters are best carved from a block of hardened resin. Michael London -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Victor M. Baca" Subject: M. Ainsworth's New 1/1200 ship modeling book As announced in SMML Vol.1415, Michael Ainsworth's new book "Warships In Miniature," is outstanding and clearly shows the scratchbuilder's art in small scale. Ainsworth (aka Mike London) also includes scale drawings and ample prototype ship photography, giving the modeler enough info to scratchbuild any of the models shown in the book. We received a review copy from the U.S. Naval Institute and I've taken to reading the thing late at night as a way to relax and wind down after a long day of model building. Although I build in larger scales, I intend to use this book as a source for problem solving and inspiration as well as a handy warship reference. The plans shown in Warships In Miniature allow the scale ship modeler to construct an accurate replica. Also included are model drawings for smaller warhips (destroyers) rendered in 1/700 scale to compliment the same subject in 1/1200. In all, Ainsworth includes no less than 48 plan sets, including the ones duplicated in 1/700. You'll find destroyers, cruisers, aircraft carriers and battleships in this nifty new book. Warships In Miniature clearly describes the use of plasticard, resin and mold making techniques. There's also a full and heavily illustrated discussion on scratchbuilding all the fittings and weapons found on warships. Ainsworth begins with details on materials and scratchbuilding technique then launches into modeling separate classes and types of ships, with full building plans for each example provided. Warship models for British, American, Japanese, German, Italian and French navies are each given their own chapters with numerous ship types in each one. The text is clearly written and this book should become the "Bible" for modelers wanting to make the next logical step from collecting in 1/1200 scale to scratchbuilding their own models. One neat feature of this book is that all the technical stuff like working in resin and making the little "bitts" and pieces that comprise a ship model are all up front at the beginning. What follows in each chapter are individual ship's photos of the model/prototype ship along with the subject's plans. The text for each subject offers a fascinating read on that particular ship's history, design rationale and a short paragraph or two on modeling notes. For the researcher, modeler, collector or warship enthusiast--this one's a keeper. Even better, it's from a fellow SMMLie, well done, Michael! Look for an expanded review in the Winter 2000-2001 issue of MSJ. Victor Baca Editor & Publisher Model Ship Journal -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Harold Stockton" Subject: Re: MKL Soviet river gunboat project 186 Friedrich Kappes asked in SMML 1413: >> Which of these images show the true Project 186 type river monitor? http://www.geocities.com/friedkappes/projekt186.jpg http://www.geocities.com/friedkappes/project-186.jpg Or is one of them showing the early look, and the other the look after modifications or of after-war built vessels? Is the latter showing the Zarnista radar? << All that I can add about Mr. Kappes question is that I have never seen anything even closely resembling the Project 186 types depicted in the Czech plans that he illustrated in his hyperlinks. The Russian and then Soviet"armored cutter" Fleet, starting with their Armored Type "D" in 1916 and the later "GVIU" class, well all very shallow draft vessels with recessed areas for their propellers. These riverine craft were designed for armed reconnaissance, and to be able to protect themselves if they got into a fight. The basic hull form for these vessels did not change much between the earlier Type "D" mentioned above, to the later armed cutters of the "N-5" class of 1931 and "BK-5" of 1937, except in their armament, which was always of then standard Soviet pattern equipment. A serious consideration was given in November 1931 to come up with a purpose built design for an armored cutter that was developed in the Projects 1124 and 1125. Each of these very similar designs were built along similar ideas of the earlier armored cutters below the waterline with propellers that did not extend below the very shallow keel line. The Projects 1124 and 1125 initially were equipped with the Model 1927/32 76.2 mm turret from the Kirov designed T-28 tank, a short barreled weapon, in their "BKA"class. Because of the availability of these turrets in some numbers, and the obsolescence of their extremely large and cumbersome tanks, these were fitted to quite a few Projects 1124 and 1125 hulls in the "BKA" class of armored cutters. The most potent armament ever fitted to a Projects 1124 and 1125 hull was exemplified in their armored cutter "S-40," that had a short barreled 82 mm cannon that they referred to as a "destroyer." These vessels often had to defend themselves against German tanks from the Pz. I to the Pz. IV. As the different turrets were developed for the different longer barreled versions of the Soviet T-34 tanks with the 76.2 mm weapon, these were added in the forward position of the Projects 1124 and 1125 hulls in place of the less effectual T-28 weapon. I have no records that the 85 mm weapon turret of the T-34 was ever used on any of the "BKA" class of armored cutters. Secondary armament ranged from turrets with 7.62 mm "Maxim" to 12.7 mm DK machine guns, 20 mm ShVAK and captured German 37 mm Rhinemetal cannons. Since all of the Soviet river monitors used standard tank turrets, the first so-called Project 186 looks suspiciously like a redrawn "Yaz" class monitor that would have had a 100 mm or 122 mm turrets from either an IS-3, T-10, T-44, T-54, T-55, or some other redundant tank chassis. The turrets on the first illustration look totally spurious to any Soviet tank turret design that I am aware of. The second drawing has somewhat familiar lines to period Soviet tank turrets, but the forward hull lines are completely spurious. Both hull designs are completely inconsistent with what seemed to be then Soviet thinking for river monitors or armored cutters. I am of the opinion that these drawings are the creation of a very furtive Czechoslovakian mind. One thing is certain about all of these armored cutters, including the major Soviet warships, there were few if any applications of radar being fitted before the end of late 1952 and early 1953. The closest thing that I can make out to the so-called Zarnista radar is the NATO named "Skin Head" radar (H and I-Band, in use since 1952/53) surface search set that was fitted to the Soviet P-4, P-6, P-8, MO-VI, and some MP-4 patrol craft, hardly necessary for a riverine craft of WW-II. Harold Stockton -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "William W, Yaun, Jr." Subject: Re: Turned barrels for 1/350th/1/700th scale guns >> Does anyone make those? I faintly recall reading something to that accord in SMML 2xx/3xx/4xx or something but canīt for the life of me find it again. Would be interested to hear if someone does those and whether anyone has used them, if available. << Thors, Pacific Front Hobbies has 1/700 turned brass guns (manuf. in Japan) for WW II US and IJN ships. They are very good. Warren -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Kenneth Perry Subject: Re: resin molds I've had much success with two part silicone mold material. I used the brand that Micro Mark sells and have had no problems, no air bubbles. The price might not justify for only a few pieces. Ken -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Edd Pflum Subject: Re: Cutting PE I've been reading a lot of nonsense lately about ways of securing PE pieces while they are being cut. This is a wasted effort. What actually happens is that the severing of the piece from the PE sheet creates a tiny, but incredibly dense, burst of energy. This high energy "micro-burst" creates a "window" into an alternate universe which sucks the PE part out of our space-time continuum. Under the proper conditions of planetary alignment, cell-phone radiation and relative humidity, this window MAY re-open, depositing the part back in our universe. I believe this adequately explains why the section of railing I searched fruitlessly for for more than 45 minutes, reappeared on top of the carpet (slightly mangled) two weeks later. Edd Westmont, IL -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Bill Gruner Subject: Classic Warships 1/350 Heavy Cruisers in Stock JUST ARRIVED - Classic Warships 1/350 resin kits of USS New Orleans and USS San Francisco, both 1942 fit. These are excellent kits with photoetch, and as they are very limited run, and might not be produced again for several months, I would suggest buying them now. Price is $190.00 for either, or $360.00 for both. All prices + shipping. I still have a few 1/350 Californias and Tennessees in stock (all full-hull), and one North Carolina (waterline). Thanks, Bill Gruner Pacific Front Hobbies 541-464-8579 fax: 541-957-5477 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume