Subject: SMML VOL 1432 Date: Tue, 04 Dec 2001 00:27:40 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: F1M2 Pete 2: Re: Glue hints 3: glue hints 4: resin kit questions 5: Status AOTS HMS Hood 6: Re: Glue hints 7: LS 1/400th HMS Audacity 8: Brass rod 9: Re: Mystery merchant ship 10: Re: Oregon -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Infomation 1: Escort Issue 13 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Re: RG 1/72 S-100 Schnellboot 2: J-aircraft Ships Board has moved! 3: Re: Mitsubishi F1M "Pete" -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Mike C" Subject: F1M2 Pete The best reference I've seen is the old Maru Mechanic #20, but since they are as rare as hen's teeth, I would recommend Model Art #565, "Imperial Japanese Navy Seaplanes." It includes a three-view foldout, details of the airframe, hoisting rig, seats, and wing fold mechanisms. There are about half a dozen paint schemes, including a beautiful illustration on the one color foldout. Excellent coverage of the Jake and Seiran, as well. It was a recent release; Pacific Front may still have them. Mike -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: Glue hints >> I am new to this list and I have a few questions. 1. How do you avoid getting glue marks or fingerprints on plastic models? 2. What is the best glue to use for construction of plastic models? I have always used the tube stuff, but I don't like it as it melts the parts and smears all over. there must be a better way. << Geez, after my recent joke about glue thumbprints, folks are going to think I planted this question! Anyhow, here goes: For number 1, you just need to be careful of where you put your fingers and hold the model after gluing. However, we all foul up from time to time, so most of us have devised a way to remove these blemishes. Let the glueprint dry overnight. Using 400 sandpaper, carefully and lightly sand the area of the glue print. After you have removed it, lightly wet sand with wet-dry 600 sandpaper, and then finish up with the higher wet sandpaper grades (1200, 1600) that you find in the automotive painting section of a hardware or car-care store. There are also some plastic polishes you can use to remove any traces of the sanding and get a smooth, fine surface. Question Number 2. Testors makes a liquid version of tube glue in a handy square black bottle wtih a metal needle applicator that sticks off at a 45 degree angle. This allows you to place liquid glue precisely and in small controlled amounts exactly where you want it. I have used this type of glue on polystyrene models for years. There are no glue "strings", as they have made the glue totally liquid, as opposed to the more gel-like form in tubes. Widely available in local Hobby shops or dealers such as Squadron. If you move into resin kits, you will need to use cyanoacrylate (superglues) which come in different degrees of "fluidity", from thin and fast setting to gels. Tom Dougherty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Ted0330@aol.com Subject: glue hints A few thoughts on styrene glue- it's not completely clear to me what problems you're having. It' sounds like you're using a tube like Testor's. This will give you trouble! Try the liquid cement in an applicator bottle- not the stuff in a wide mouth jar with a brush- the container (as I get it here in TN) is dark bue-black with a long slender applicator tip and cover. This will allow you to exquisitely control the flow and placement of cement. Another thing you can do is put a little dab of cement on your modelling surface (newspaper or homasote board or whatever) and then use forceps to dip small parts into this 'puddle'. This way only as much cement as the aprt can hold gets on the part. Try CA glue and accelerator! It revolutionized my building. Ted Tsaltas -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Ted0330@aol.com Subject: resin kit questions I'm building 1:350 resin kits. Some questions- - Both kits (to date) have had no secondary gun barrels. Is this standard? Am I to fabricate them from brass rod? - Any tips on attaching brass rails and ladders? I can bend and cut them well, but struggle with CA glue spatter when I attach them. - I'm really thinking about an airbrush. I currently (and always have) meticulously hand-brushed everything. Should I get an airbrush? - I like 1:350, but the selection of kits in 1:700 is extraordinary. Is it worth down-scaling? Thanks, Ted Tsaltas -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Erwin Van Deynze Subject: Status AOTS HMS Hood Hi, Does anybody know the status on the Anatomy of the ship book on the HMS Hood? It was due for a reprint this year. Proxis (Belgian counterpart of Amazon.com) had it in their list at a reasonable price, so I ordered it. After a few mails each notifying of delays I finally got a mail they had to cancel my order, because it wasn't available and the publisher couldn't give any release date. TIA Erwin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Ed Grune Subject: Re: Glue hints Hi there IAAFru2! Welcome aboard. You will find us to be a generally pleasant group, but I do feel strange calling you IAAFru2. I hope I have a few answers for you. I'll try to answer number two first. >> 2. What is the best glue to use for construction of plastic models? I have always used the tube stuff, but I don't like it as it melts the parts and smears all over. << For styrene plastic models I use liquid glue. I use Tenax 7R (clear bottle/yellow label). This glue flows just like water and is applied with a fine pointed brush. Buy a brush that is only used for applying glue. The liquid glues evaporate quickly. Hold the two parts together. Dip the brush in the Tenax and then touch the joint. Capillary action sucks the glue into the joint. The glue then softens the two pieces and welds them together when the glue evaporates. One touch might flow the glue several inches. Start at one end of the seam, touch, and move. Repeat as necessary. I will bet that when you use tube glue you run a big string of it along each of the parts you want to join then bring them together. The excess glue squirts out the sides. Am I right? You touch the blob of glue and pull your finger away and you get sticky strings that go everywhere. Tube glue has a plastic dissolved in it which carries the solvent and this plastic is what makes the strings you see. The plastic also slows down the evaporation. By using Tenax the glue drys more quickly, lessening the time that you will have to stick your finger in the glue and then sticking it on a part that will show. That is part of the answer to number 1. For real small parts, hold them in place with tweezers as you apply the glue with the brush tip. And keep your fingers out of long seams as you apply the glue. Hope this helps Ed Mansfield, TX -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Phil M. Gollin" Subject: LS 1/400th HMS Audacity Looking at the Hannants Web Page I saw that as a "future release" (no date or details) they had the following LS ships; 7001 - 1/72nd Imperial Russian Torpedo Boat CHESMA 7002 - 1/400th 1904/05 Russo-Japanese war destroyer Stereguschy 7003 - 1/400th Oscar 2 SSGN "Kursk" 7004 - 1/400th Oscar 2 SSGN 7005 - 1/400th HMS Audacity Does anyone know anything about these kits - especially the HMS Audacity kit???? Thanks -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Fkbrown90@aol.com Subject: Brass rod A little while ago someone asked for help in finding sources of small brass rod stock. Unfortunately I do not have the screen name of that person, but here is a general response anyway. Try a model railroad hobby store, and ask to see their Walthers catalogue in the section for such supplies, especially look for a company called Specialty Shapes ( or something very close to that for a name). Then, for the smaller sizes, try unravelling some stranded wire of varying sizes and measuring the individual wires. This wire will be copper, and will need to be straightened, but just may be useful. If you live near a big city, go to an electronic specialty store (not Radio Shack, etc. that the general public uses, but one the serious electronics people use ) and see what they can find. If you are desparate enough, and live near a research center, ask their Purchasing Department if they have a source. Above all, be tenacious. Franklyn -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Daniel H Jones Subject: Re: Mystery merchant ship Will Gossett writes >> I recently acquired an original specification book for a "Steel Screw Steamer to be built for The Ellerman Lines, Limited by Palmers Shipbuilding & Iron Co., Ltd.", Jarrow-on Tyne, in 1913. The hullnumber was 837 and the ship was 401 ft. 2 ins. long and 51 ft. in beam. My question is: how would I go about finding the name of the ship, it's history and possibly locating plans for same? << I am about ninety nine percent sure that the ship in question is the CITY OF MYSORE. I found no listing in my data of the yard numbers at Palmers, however all other specs match. The ship is listed as being engined by Palmers, single screw, 534 shaft horse power, two boilers, speed 12-1/2 knots, tonnage (gross) 5,294, (net) 3,416. You could check your book to see if these figures match (or close). She was delivered in 1914, and was wrecked in February 1915 after only about six months service, on Kouriya Reef (Ceylon), while on the Calcutta-London-Dunkirk route with a cargo of jute and tea. I have found no images of the ship - not too surprising`considering her short life. Chronologically this ship is listed in some sources under the banner of the Hall Line - a company which was purchased by Ellerman in 1901. The Hall Line had a high reputation and the name continued in use even though the company was wholely owned by Ellermans. The CITY OF BOMBAY (III) would probably be very similar if not identical in appearance, built in 1910 by Palmers, and is almost identical in specifications except for being one foot narrower in beam and consequent slight reductions in tonnage figures.. She had a long career (active until May 1932 when she was broken up at Glasgow) and so offers a better chance of finding photos (I have not searched yet). As for plans - perhaps one of our U.K. readers might know if the plans from Palmer's yard found a home in a musuem or library collection. Good luck in your quest. Daniel Jones Plastic Ship Modeler magazine -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Gmshoda@cs.com Subject: Re: Oregon Thanks to Kurt for the photos of the battleships at the San Francisco Maritime Museum. Every chance I get to visit San Francisco, I visit those models to admire them. I wish I had access to the photos before I tried making a model of the Oregon. I would have made a much more accurate version. I had only a rough drawing to work from. The models are a marvel. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Infomation -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Leslie Brown" Subject: Escort Issue 13 The latest update of the UK IPMS Small Warships SIG website (www.brown.abelgratis.co.uk) has now been updated. I realise it is a little early but I hope you all have a very happy modelling Christmas! Regards Les Brown -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: SteveWiper@aol.com Subject: Re: RG 1/72 S-100 Schnellboot >> The word that we got from RG at the IPMS/UK Nationals in early November was that the kit was due for release in January. Peter Hall is already working on a dedicated photoetch set for it, which should be ready by the time the kit hits the streets. << Classic Warships is working very hard to bring out the Warship Pictorial #15 Kriegsmarine Schnellboote book in mid to late January. I had hoped to time the release with the kit. The book will be 64 to 72 pages packed with many photos of all variants of the German S-boats, also called E-boats. There will also be many drawings contained in this volume of almost every variant. I have managed to find a little original color photography as well as 8 color profile illustrations I created based upon photographic evidence. There will be more visual information in this book on the S-boats than has ever been in print before. Price will be $15.95 US Dollars retail, and will be available at all the same places you have found my books at before. Also printing with this book in January is #16 USS New Jersey BB-62. Thanks, Steve Wiper www.classicwarships.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Dave Pluth" Subject: J-aircraft Ships Board has moved! Hi all, The ships message board on Japanese Aircraft & Ship Modeling Homepage (j-aircraft.com) has now moved to j-aircraft.org. The new link should be: http://www.j-aircraft.org/bbs/jship_config.pl For those linking to this area on the site or with bookmarks, please take note. Thanks as always for your support! Dave Japanese Aircraft & Ship Modeling Homepage www.j-aircraft.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Bill Gruner Subject: Re: Mitsubishi F1M "Pete" The best reference now available is the Model-Art book No.565 on Imperial Japanese Navy Seaplanes; 266 pp., even includes 1/48 fold-out plans for the Pete. We have it in stock for $39.00. By the way, we just received the new Model-Art publications "Imperial Japanese Navy Single Engine Fighters" (NEW expanded edition, now 260 pages), and "Imperial Japanese Night Fighters" (Army and Navy), both in stock for $39.00 each. Thanks, Bill Gruner Pacific Front Hobbies -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume