Subject: SMML VOL 1448 Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2001 00:27:05 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Ar 196 Planes in 1/400 scale 2: Re: HMS Hood Documentary and Other Hood News 3: Re: Finials 4: Re: Finials 5: Re: Baltimore Class 6: Re: BALTIMORE-Class 7: Re: Finials 8: Best PE for USS Arizona? 9: Navigation lights 10: Revell/Monogram USS Enterprise 11: Re: BALTIMORE-Class 12: Re: Revell S-Boat 13: Re: Yamato Hull question... 14: FINIAL 15: 1/700 scale russian insigna 16: Lighting 17: 1/350 USS Utah & Florida 18: hood -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Warship Books announcement -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Daniel Bauer" Subject: Ar 196 Planes in 1/400 scale Hello from Guam, I am looking for some extra AR 196 Floatplanes to add to two project KM ships. I want to open up the aircraft storeage areas of the Prinz Eugen and I need two planes to convert the Schanhorst back to it's 1939 detail, ei. plane on turret"C" in stern area. Thanks for help in advance, Dan Bauer -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Frank Allen Subject: Re: HMS Hood Documentary and Other Hood News Documentary: Although it is a possibility, the "forward magazine explosion" theory is not supported by all the experts involved in the Hood expedition. The historian supported the theory whereas the naval architect did not (he currently believes implosion played a major part in the forward damage). There are aspects of the wreck/bow area which support both sides...based on his expertise, I'd be more inclined to believe the architect (Bill Jurens) though. Anyways, the main thing which Channel 4 did not tell everyone last night is that they have not allowed many expert to see their tapes. They even withheld materials from some members of the expedition research staff until very recently! As a result, a truly detailed "forensic analysis" by properly trained people has yet to take place. Yes, some of the observed events of 24 May do fit with what was seen on the ocean floor, but others do not. We need to find out what the construction experts and explosives experts say and then piece it together. Though still technically unproven, Channel 4 probably put that theory in the programme simply to provide a "new angle"...something "new" or controversial to sell their product. Despite the shortcomings of the video documentaries and the odd behaviour of Channel 4 (post expedition), it was an exciting Summer and I was proud to part of it in a small way. In other HOOD news: 1. The Anatomy of the Ship book is at Batsford now (first few copies). The rest are on the way to the warehouse with shipping dates in early January. 2. Heller is reissuing their 1/400 scale Hood in the Spring of 2002. This is per a comminque from Heller to the Hood Association. At any rate, it will be out before the ICM kit (which is growing into a monster...the plans look good though...appears very accurate). The kit is large but is not very detailed. Hopefully we will see some new PE/detailing parts issued? Frank http://hmshood.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: ALROSS2@aol.com Subject: Re: Finials >> I've looked everywhere I can think of to find something even remotely resembling finials as discussed on this site. Apparently we don't have them in Australia. << I missed the earlier discussions, so this may be duplicative. Have you gone to your local hardware store and asked for brass lamp finials? I've used these on small models for years. They have a solid round top, but are drill most of the way through. I just cut off the solid top, smooth it off, complete the drilling, and end up with a subtly-shaped pedestal. Al Ross -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: aandmblevins@att.net Subject: Re: Finials Try BlueJacket ShipCrafters or Model Expo. Both have websites and sell brass pedestals. Becaue it is common to employ oversized comercially produces pedestals that seem to make the pedestals look too big for the model, on smaller scales I use brass rod and tubing to make my own pedestals for models. Start with a small diameter brass rod which is made to fit into holes drilled hole in the base and the hull of the ship. The tubing is fit over the rod in the desired length you want between the hull and the base to form the pedestal. It can also be done in increasing diameters to vary the shape of the tube. I use CA to fasten the tubing lengths to the rod, then place it in a drill to taper and then polish the tubing. Al Blevins -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: ELLshipmodeler@aol.com Subject: Re: Baltimore Class >> I thought I saw something on this list about a 1/192 kit forthcoming. << I think that was my wishing out loud on the SMML. Gene Larson Alexandria, Virginia Member, NRG -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Steve Sobieralski Subject: Re: BALTIMORE-Class It's not a kit but Don Pruel offers a 1/192 Baltimore class hull. It's not shown on his website - http://www.jdproduct.com/ - but I know it's available as I ordered one from him last week. Steve Sobieralski -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Vincent Mccullough" Subject: Re: Finials Bob, Here in the states, I've found finials at lamp stores or lamp repair shops. I suspect that they must have them in Oz, so I'd check there. However, I suspect that what you are really looking for is what is called a "shade riser." They are designed to screw onto the "harp" on on a lamp and then lift the shade by a bit. Some examples that I found searching the internet can be found at: http://www.shoporium.com/shops/antiquelampscustomshades/view_item.php3?id=42314 and http://www.libertybrass.com/ckring.htm There are also spindles that are used to transition between a lamp base and the lamp hardware. See: http://www.paxtonhardware.com/LampFit/Lamp%20Part%20Pages/Finials.html for examples. Vince McCullough Washington Ship Model Society Nautical Research Guild -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Joe Drees" Subject: Best PE for USS Arizona? I just got the Banner 1/350 Arizona and was wondering who makes the best PE for it. TIA..............Joe -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Fkbrown90@aol.com Subject: Navigation lights SMML came through with some interesting stories and suggestions about the painting of turnbuckles on U.S.Navy small vessels in wartime, both on and off line. Thanks. But no one responded to my inquiry about the appropriate painting of the red and green navigation (running) light bodies and backing boards. I know it is small potatoes, but why not, with a little effort, do it right? And SMML is indeed a proven source of consensus of what is correct. Any comments? My guru Art Herrick) is gonna kill me if I don't get it right. Franklyn -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Rodney Dauteuil Jr." Subject: Revell/Monogram USS Enterprise Hello, My local hobby shop has just gotten in the new USS Enterprise model and I was able to open the box for inspection. The packaging of this model really astounded me. The first and only thing I have to say is it is a huge ripoff for those who don't know what they're getting. The box literally measures 3 feet by 3 feet square, and about 4 inches deep. It is divided into roughly 5 sections. In the middle is the hull packed lengthwise, then there are two compartments on on either side of it, all separated by cardboard dividers. Each compartment holds a single parts tree. This model only has about 4 or 5 parts trees in total, and with this arrangement it really shows how loosely the box is packed. Come on Revellogram, what on Earth are you doing? A box this size gives the appearance of a model packed full of goodies. But not here. This model is just the usual run of the mill CVN65, which has been issued in years past with a considerably smaller box. Aside from the packaging, there have been no upgrades to the kit except for the instructions. The decals appeared to be the same as their late 1970's issue. Some parts are molded in black while others are gray. All I can say is for $89.00, Revell must really be optimistic. This mold has been around for years, it's not like it's new tooling where they have to earn back development and production costs. Ridiculous, absolutely ridiculous! Buyer definitely beware. On a lighter note, I'm in the process of building a Piasecki HUP Retriever from a Ukranian kit. While this is slightly off topic, I know there are some USS Hornet/Alameda people here on SMML and have to ask for help. I've been on the Hornet twice and have seen the HUP in the hangar bay. As I recall there is only one seat in the cockpit, on the left side, and there is a floor hatch next to it. I also seem to think there is another seat midway down the fuselage near the oval door. Can somebody contact me (off list) to verify some details of this helicopter? Thanks, and sorry to ramble on about the Revell kit, Rod -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Keith Bender" Subject: Re: BALTIMORE-Class Hi SMMLies, J&D Productions makes an awesome Baltimore hull in 1:192. It sells for $300. Hey no whining please this hull is well worth it and will save you a ton of work. The plating is all there as bilge keels,shaft exits, suction and discharge openings and more. Lets just hope your work will complement the hull. Keith -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Marc Flake Subject: Re: Revell S-Boat Thanks to Michiel Woort for his report. Also, if you go to www.steelnavy.com and click on the "What's New" box, there's a good in-box review, including some scans of the sprues, instructions and decals. Was the Airfix kit an S-100 class boat, too? Marc Flake -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Devin J. Poore" Subject: Re: Yamato Hull question... Dan, The hull plating question is something I mulled over for quite a while this past summer. Here's what I arrived at after asking around at a lot of different places (mind you, this is with resin, but it should work with styrene as well): Take an extremely sharp knife and a straight edge. Scribe the line into the hull where the weld line should be. This will leave you with an indented scribe, with raised furrows of plastic on either side of it. Apply a good thick coat of paint or primer, and this will fill in the space between the furrows, forming a nice raised line. I did this on my Blue Water Navy USS Juneau resin kit and the results were great as far as I'm concerned. I have a couple of "in progress" photos on my web page showing the results thus far: http://users.rcn.com/devinj/modeling.htm Devin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "DUCKMAN" Subject: FINIAL I WOULD SURE LIKE TO HELP ON THIS "FINIAL" THING, BUT I THOUGHT A FINIAL WAS THAT PART OF A FISH BETWEEN THE DORSAL AND THE TAIL. DAVID IN DIXIE -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: annobon4@aol.com Subject: 1/700 scale russian insigna Hi guys A few issues back I learned that 1/700 scale russian insigna was available from GMM and other person said that a company also made them available in 1/300 scale that may be usable. Who are they again? By accident I deleted it. Any information would be appreciated. Craig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "Devin J. Poore" Subject: Lighting I have a display case I built several months ago. I'm considering lighting it, but I don't want to get into the whole "it fades the paint" thing. What type of lighting is recommended in such cases? Do those new LED fixtures have the same problems with fading items over the long term? Devin -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: IAAFru2@aol.com Subject: 1/350 USS Utah & Florida Hi guys and gals. Anybody have a good source for a 1/350 scale USS UTAH, this seems to be the forgotten Battleship from Pearl.!! Also possible Florida, as this was the class, and could be converted. Also looking for R/C of same if any one know of source. Thanks George -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "graham and melanie" Subject: hood ooooooppps part 2 was on last night -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Keith Butterley Subject: Warship Books announcement Hi all, New titles available on the Maritme Books page HMS Hermes 1923 & 1959 Stalin's Ocean Going Fleet Ship's in Miniature The Army's Navy Dreadnoughts in Camera Please visit the site for full details. I would like to extend from my family to yours, a very Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. All the best! Keith Butterley http://www.warshipbooks.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume