Subject: SMML VOL 1467 Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2002 00:31:19 +1100 shipmodels@tac.com.au -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Lathes 2: Banner Arizona/Pennys 3: WW2 magazine 4: Re: Fiji & Trinidad 5: Wooden Ships / Rattlesnake Article 6: Russia to build 2 destroyers for China 7: Finials, etc -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Anatomy of the Ship Hood + bonus -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Keith Bender" Subject: Re: Lathes Hi SMMLies. Lathes. Over the years I have gathered up three lathes. My best one turns out to be a lathe mill combo called a "Shop Task". It's a bench top machine, weighs about 400lbs. It has a mill head that is mounted on the lathe head and swings around so it is not in your way for lathe work. The compound table is 18" X 6" for milling. I bought this used for $800. six years ago and it has paid for itself many many times over. New they go for $2500 depending on the attachments you get, Yes this is high for the average model builder but if your running a small business it is well worth it. It has held up with the exception of a drive belt and holds your tolerance within .0005 of an inch. I also have a 1955 Unimat lathe / mil. She's all steel and cast construction. It was a model made when things were still of great quality and it still works like new. Many gun barrels have been turned on this lathe. My advice is to stay away from that plastic Unimat lathe / mil that "Model Expo" sells. Sherline is pretty good but not large enough or powerful enough for my needs but never-the -less still a good machine. Keith -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: IAAFru2@aol.com Subject: Banner Arizona/Pennys I want to convert the Banner Arizona Kit, into the Pennsylvania. What modifications will I need to make, or can I do a straight build out of the box, I do plane to use GM or Tom's photo etch, whichever one has the Pennsy. parts. But is there any other conversion kit, or modification I need to do. I will also eventually redoing the Arizona using photo etch. Any help is appreciated Thanks George -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Andrew Jones" Subject: WW2 magazine also forgot to mention, available at most good newsagents (or in Sydney Angus & robertson & Borders) ALso hope none SMML'iers were/are affected by the bush fires during their summer tour thru the state of NSW Andrew OZ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Sanartjam@aol.com Subject: Re: Fiji & Trinidad Hi John, Regarding the quad .5-in guns fitted to the Fiji and the Trinidad, I've looked at every drawing I can find on the class (including the one of Fiji in 1940 in Dominy's in "Cruisers in Action 1939-45") and I cannot find a single one that shows, as far as I can tell, any quad .5-in guns. Nor have I been able to make out any quad .5-in guns in any of the photographs of the early ships of the class. Since they don't seem to be on the turret tops, I have no idea where they were, if they were really mounted at all! As for the colors worn by the Fiji, I'm sure you know that Volume I of Alan Raven's series on Royal Navy camouflage states he has not been able to determine the colors of the Fiji's pattern. Perhaps you could use the colors worn by the Trinidad or the Sheffield, which also carried First Disruptive patterns? Incidentally, there is a really good starboard view of the Fiji in this pattern in Douglas Morris' "Cruisers of the Royal and Commonwealth Navies"; the photo is credited to the National Maritime Museum. Art Nicholson -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: JKrakow@aol.com Subject: Wooden Ships / Rattlesnake Article In a departure from the usual plastic model kits, this month's FineScale Modeller has a basic article on assembly of a wooden plank-on-bulkhead model of the Rattlesnake (built by a model railroader). For more detail about the Privateer Rattlesnake, check the March 1994 Nautical Research Journal for Harold Hahn's very thorough article. It includes a full set of plans based on updated research, and photographs of his beautiful scratchbuilt wooden model. According to Hahn, very little is known for sure about the Rattlesnake's career. (Sadly, Model Expo's vivid write up "she captured over a million dollars worth of British goods on her first cruise, establishing a reputation as a formidable vessel. The British ordered her captured at any cost" is just advertising piffle.) Hahn's research, plans, and models are impeccable. I also recommend his books on the Colonial Navy and Colonial Schooners, which are likewise well illustrated with his plans and models. Derek-- switching from plastic to wood requires a few different skills and materials, but no big deal and certainly nothing to fear. For the plastic modeller making the switch there is one important factor to bear in mind: putty is not a good option so parts fit is crucial. ("Measure twice, cut once" etc.) You might want to try building a hybrid (plastic hull, wooden masts & decks) or a solid wooden hull schooner before starting a plank on frame Man o' War. Dave www.PrinzEugen.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Andrew Jones" Subject: Russia to build 2 destroyers for China Jan 4: Russia secured a $1billion (usd i guess) contract to supply China with 2 modified Sovremenny class destroyers, Itar-tass news agency stated. Tass said the 2 new 956_EM vessels were due for delivery in 4 years & would be an upgrade on the first batch. The warships would be built at the Northern Shipyard company in St Petersburg. Jane's defence weekly last year reported that Russia was facing difficulties in building the ships as manufacturers of some kep companonets had remained beyond its borders in teh wake of teh Soviet Union's 1991 break up. So it seems that you modern russia/chinese ship modellers will have some new upgrades to do in the next few years to keep your fleets up to date -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: John Snyder Subject: Finials, etc Regarding the recent discussion and search for lamp finials for displaying full-hull models, we just this morning received a catalog from Toyway (P.O. Box 55, Unit 20 Jubilee Trade Centre, Jubilee Road, Letchworth, Herts., SG6 1SG) here in the UK. Nothing much of interest, EXCEPT in their listing for "Display Stands", which includes item #1029305, "Turned Brass Supports (3 pcs.). Toyway does not sell retail (and we can't get them ourselves), so it might be worthwhile asking if your local hobby shop can get these. Retail price appears to be 1.99 Pounds. Best, John Snyder White Ensign Models http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: John Snyder Subject: Anatomy of the Ship Hood + bonus We just received our first shipment of Conways AOTS Hood, price 25.00 Pounds (about $35.50). We also got an unexpected bonus: Conways AOTS Dreadnought, price 30.00 Pounds (about $42.60). We'd been told this book had been pushed off until late this year or next year, so it was a real surprise. Both books shipping now, with pre-orders taking priority. Hurry, hurry, hurry! Best, John Snyder White Ensign Models http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume