Subject: SMML VOL 1546 Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2002 12:40:46 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Color Cross-references 2: Hi-gloss, Lo-gloss 3: US CVN's under construction 4: figures 5: Tamiya 1/72 PT-15 JMSDF boat 6: Re: 1/96 ships lifeboats 7: Re: Pearl Harbour bridge 8: Paris model shops 9: Re: Talcum Powder Craze 10: Washes and dry brushing 11: Re: Talcum Powder Craze 12: Fehgrau 13: The Scotsman - International - Investigators say torpedo most likely cause of Kursk disaster 14: talcum powder again/scale effect of flats/history in color 15: Starboard up and forward memories 16: Colors -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: New Classic Warships and WR Press books 2: WEM 1/350 Knox kits REDUCED.. and important news for 1/600 Scale modellers -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Frank Laturnus" Subject: Re: Color Cross-references I assume it means "Feldgrau (=field grey)", uniform color of WWII German infantry. Frank Laturnus -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: david_l._miller@ccmail.wiu.edu Subject: Hi-gloss, Lo-gloss I think the suggestion to use hi gloss paint and then dull it later, is particularly relevant if you are going to apply decals to your model. Decals apply best to a gloss surface. Dull surfaces result in "silvering" of the decal, where any clear part of the decal shows up on the model. I spray a clear gloss over flat colors prior to applying the decal. After the decal has been applied and has dried for several hours, you can apply a dull coat over the decal, to seal and protect, and to restore the dull finish. Nonetheless, I sometimes still get some noticeable silvering. Very annoying!! Dave Miller, Macomb -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Rod Dauteuil Subject: US CVN's under construction Somebody recently posted that there are several US ships under construction, namely 2 CVN's. Have they been assigned names yet? Rod -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "hjbosma" Subject: figures Hello, I am looking for figures. Scales between 1:100 and 1:87. Maritime kind. I know that a lot of you modellers dòn`t use the figures included with their 1:100 sailing ship kits. I ,for example, have always trown them away!!. But now I need a lot of them for a special project! Has anybody figures he never will use in his sparebox??? I gladly pay the expenses if you are willing to send them over to me in Holland. Please send your reactions direct to my Email: hjbosma@kabelfoon.nl Thanks in advance Hans -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Boatbldr Subject: Tamiya 1/72 PT-15 JMSDF boat Hi Gil I asked the same question here and on other sites a while back, and I also even tried Tamiya themselves (wrote them). Tamiya didn't bother to reply and I got no photos' here either. So in conclusion, the ship either does not exist at all, or photographs of it are non existent. Hmmm I didn't try the Japanese defence attaché though.....(but by then I had lost my enthusiasm anyway) regards Boatbldr -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Ron Wild" Subject: Re: 1/96 ships lifeboats Why don't you attempt to make your own using the vacuform system. It's relatively easy to do. All that is required is to carve the first one from a fairly hard wood, then use that plug as the mold. You can make as many boats as you wish from the one plug using styrene plastic (available at any plastic shop or sign shop.) If you are interested in making the vacuum machine contact me off list and I'llsend a sketch. It can mostly be made from a piece of plywood. From Ron Wild Kelowna, BC Canada -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: annobon4@aol.com Subject: Re: Pearl Harbour bridge Hi Burl The bridge that connects to Ford Island is that apart of H-3 ? H-3 means Highway # 3. The were two highways that cross Ohua thru the Pali Mts. When I was there in 1991 H-3 was under construction. Correct me if I'm wrong but doesn't H-1 run along the north coast while H-2 goes directly across the island. H-3 is along the southern coast? By the way I had heard that the Sugar cane industry died there. What happen to all those thousands of acres of land used for it. Craig -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Poutre, Joseph A" Subject: Paris model shops This information is a few years old, so I recommend calling each place before going. The quotes are from various posts on rec.models.scale. I have not shopped any of these places yet. The first place was generally agreed to be the best in Paris by multiple posters. Best shop IMHO is Kit-N-Doc in Clichy (just on the north end of Paris). Take the metro line 13 direction Asnieres to Mairie de Clichy station and exit rue Martre. You will walk about 8 block from the station. The address is Kit-N-Doc 144 rue Martre 92110 Clichy The people are very helpful, and speak english. I suggest you call them to get the hours they will be open. Oh buy the way these people also publish the Replic magazine so if you are interested in back issues you need to ask them, they are not on display. EOL' (1/700 models) 70, boulevard Saint-Germain 75005 PARIS Phone : 01 43 54 01 43 Metro : Maubert-Mutualite (closest) or Cluny The shop is very easy to find (actually there are three next to other: R/C models, die-cast and plastic models) and has large stocks of plastic kits although the ship models are under-represented. They stock the usual 1/700 plastic ranges. Prices can be a little expensive (with the odd bargain once a century) and the staff sometimes behave as if they were running a Polish food store in 1981. Central Train (1/700 models) 81, rue de Reaumur 75002 PARIS Phone : 01 42 36 70 37 Metro : Sentier or Reaumur-Sebastopol This shop is easy to find also. Although they concentrate on trains, they have large-scale naval models and some 1/700 plastic kits right at the back of the shop. Prices tend to be reasonable and the staff is relatively friendly. Fernac (1/700 models) 17, rue de Maintenotte 75017 PARIS Metro : Etoile Another easy to find shop. Again, also concentrate on trains but have quite a few 1/700 models (mainly Revell). Prices are variable: you can find some things at good prices while others are expensive. They also do mail order and their stocks are often renewed so it's probably worth a visit. Librairie du Musee de la Marine (1/1250 models and books) Palais de Chaillot 17, place du Trocadero 75016 PARIS Open daily _except_ Tuesdays from 10h to 18h Metro : Trocadero This is located at the entrance of the Naval Museum (in the right wing of the Palais de Chaillot when you are facing the Eiffel tower). A very good naval bookshop with good prices (proceeds go to the museum so that's two good reasons to buy from them). Apart from the books, they have a large selection of photographs and postcards. Also worth checking out are sets of affordable plans made by the Friends of the Naval Museum Association, these are usually relatively large (1/100 to 1/200) and cover some of the ship models on display in the museum itself. They also sell a large range of 1/1200 metal models (the only place in Paris that does, to my knowledge). Very much recommended. You can always visit the museum while you're there if you have the time. Librairie Maritime et D'Outre Mer (books) 17, rue Jacob 75006 PARIS Phone : 01 46 33 47 48 Metro : Odeon Not very easy to find (it's in a little side street). This has a large selection of naval books although the prices of imported books tend to be very high, up to 30% more than the Naval Museum bookstore in some cases (note that the price of French books is fixed so you'll find pretty much the same, within 5%, everywhere). Definitely a second choice after the Naval Museum bookstore. Joseph Poutre -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: MPalmisano@gafri.com Subject: Re: Talcum Powder Craze >> Actually, one very famous model builder told me it is best to paint with good quality high gloss and then dull it down afterwards. Any comments? << I think all this is alot of unecessary work. There are plenty of paints out there (Poly S, Tamiya, and others) that airbrush on perfectly flat. As flat as you'd ever need for any model. with a ship model and it's fine detail, especially when covering photoetch, you want as thin a coat of paint as possible. Gloss paint is thicker than flat, and dulling it later with Dullcote or a flat clearcoat will make it even thicker. Why go to all that trouble when there are flat paints everywhere that look fabulous right out of the bottle? also remember that a flat paint will look different if hand brushed vs. airbrushed. It will dry alot flatter coming from the airbrush than handpainted on. For handpainting figures of any scale, I haven't been able to beat Poly S paints. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Kelvin Mok" Subject: Washes and dry brushing >> would like to know any recommendations: India ink/water, black oils/mineral spirits, etc. << If you are using acrylic paints thinning it to a wash may cause it to lose its adhesiveness and bead up. The way to restore it to paintlike adhesiveness is to add a little clear acrylic gel extender (sometimes labelled as an acrylic retarder) available at the artists' supply shop. I suppose you can use the gel with diluted India ink. If enamels thinning it with regular paint thinner works and can be used as a wash. Kelvin Mok -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: NAVYDAZE@aol.com Subject: Re: Talcum Powder Craze Ulrich, yep that is how the aircraft modelers do it. they need to the gloss so the decals will adhere. Sometimes they use gloss coat for the colors or they will use flat and then add a gloss coat. Decals are applied and In either case they finish off later with a dull coat of clear flat to finish & seal I see no reason why you could not do this with ships also if you had a favorite brand that has a color only available in gloss. Mike Donegan NAVYDAZE -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Pletscher-Lenz-Schneider" Subject: Fehgrau Feh is an old German word for squirrel. Falk Pletscher -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: JRKutina@webtv.net (John Kutina) Subject: The Scotsman - International - Investigators say torpedo most likely cause of Kursk disaster http://thescotsman.co.uk/international.cfm?id=193432002 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "john fiebke" Subject: talcum powder again/scale effect of flats/history in color Somebody asked how talcum powder-dulled paint worked in an airbrush. I only ever used it to brush paint clothing on 1/35 and 1/48 scale figures. As I can barely get my airbrush to spray acrylic flats, I would imagine that the powder would clog it. Granted, I have a very finicky double action badger anthem, which only really loves enamels and laquer. I actually can't think of anything besides clothing that would need a finish as flat as the talcum powder method that I described produces. Which brings up another question I've often wondered. As you move smaller in scales, is the flatness of paint effected by the same scale effect that lightens color? 1/700 scale flat should be slightly glossier than 1/96 scale flat, if it is indeed affected. I was just wandering this after spraying clear flat over my 1/700 indianapolis and thinking it looked way to flat. And on a different topic, did anybody happen to catch the History in Color marathon on the history channel here in the states? One of them was on the U.S. Navy, mostly color film of ships in the Pacific. What was most striking was the huge variation in color of the deck blue on aircraft carriers, ranging from a brownish-blue to a light navy blue. Some of this, i'm sure, was in the color film reproduction, but there were still obvious variations. Also of note was just how weathered some of the ships were. One of the heavy cruisers looked like the ocean had more or less sand-blasted the hull. Good news for me, as weathering is my favorite part of building a ship. john fiebke -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Jim Johnson" Subject: Starboard up and forward memories The recent thread about the directions for moving about the ship brought back some memories. The directions were only used during general quarters. Usually there was enough room and little enough traffic so as not to matter. We had a lot of drills but we didn't have many actual GQs. I remember one of the few very vividly. The ship (USS America CVA-66) had just come back from a med and was undergoing a minor overhaul in the yards in Norfolk. The main item on the agenda was to install an avionics shop in the forward portion of the hanger bay. It lowered the hangerbay overhead by one level (normally 3 decks high, the front 50 feet or so was now 2 decks high). This was for the A-6 Intruders that we were going to carry the next deployment. Just behind us, in dry-dock, was the USS Forestall (CVA-59). It was being repaired from the huge fire and explosions that had occurred on the flight deck. The whole aft of the ship was removed down to the waterline at the stern and tapered up from there. One of the things we were told is that most of the people who lost their lives in the disaster were below decks, particularly under the flight deck under the fire. Flash ahead 6 or 8 months. We were off shore of Viet Nam on Yankee station, Gulf of Tonkin. The chow lines on the ship were on the second deck. There was one forward which was hardly ever used for anything other than bomb assembly. The one that was usually in use was the after one. There were two serving lines. With 5000 men aboard, the lines were usually quite long. At 2100 hours, one line would change from the evening meal to Hamburgs and hot dogs with fries. (The fries were powdered mashed potatoes that were extruded through a machine and deep fried). My friends and I would often go and eat then to avoid the lines. We were sitting in the mess decks between 2100 and 2200 hours. Someone came on the 1MC (the public address system) and blurted out "there's a plane on fire on the flight deck forward." My friends and I sat for a split second looking at each other, then the 1MC sounded the GQ alarm, adding "this is not a drill". I ran across the mess decks and up towards the hanger bay. My GQ station was as a roving investigator in the area ahead of the hanger bay from the hanger bay deck (the main deck) and up. As I was running through the hanger bay, I was looking out of the elevator doors. These are almost always open. Looking out of number one elevator, which is the most forward elevator and on the starboard side, I could see that the entire area was as light as day, even though it was well after sundown. All I could think about was the sailors on the Forestall who had perished in the same area and circumstances as I was headed to. We sat and waited to be told to go and investigate for any damage. I made sure my oxygen breathing apparatus (OBA) was put on properly. We waited about 20 minutes and the all clear was sounded. What had happened is that a A-7A Corsair was being launched form one of the bow catapults and his load of magnesium flare had come off his MER (multiple ejection rack) and ignited. They rolled around the deck until some brave souls managed to get them overboard. I imagine that someone got in serious trouble because they weren't attached properly and someone got a great pat on the back for pushing the flares over the side, but airdale goings on usually didn't filter down to us snipes. All I know is, I'm glad to be typing this story to all of you 35 years later. Jim Johnson MM2 (ret) -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "Loren Pike" Subject: Colors AAAmodels posted: >>> 7000 Fehgrau 35237 <<< What does this color translate to? Cannot figure this out! Feh? Some shade of grey - maybe haze grey. >> As a short answer: Medium Dark Gray. Don't know German, BUT the 35237 is in the FS color range as a BLUE. As I look at the "chip", I would call it a "blue-gray", with a touch of green in it. Anyway, take a look at a FS color chart. Comparing FS 35237 to Dunkelgrau 51 (RAL 7000) on the Snyder and Short Enterprises' WWII Naval Colors Kriegsmarine Set #1, I would have to say that they are "close" but not exact. I've looked at these side by side under a couple of different light sources (incandescent & florescent) and can sometimes see a difference, other times they look alike. Guess it's in the "eye of the beholder"!! Loren -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Randy Short Subject: New Classic Warships and WR Press books Snyder and Short has plenty of the new CW #15 Schnelleboote and #16 New Jersey at $12 each, plus s&h. New WR Press Flushdeckers will be in in a week or so. Randy Short at Snyder and Short: www.shipcamouflage.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "WEM" Subject: WEM 1/350 Knox kits REDUCED.. and important news for 1/600 Scale modellers Hi Folks, We have three WEM 1/350 Knox kits here, absolutely spitting perfect except for very minor chips/cracks to the bulwarks. This makes these kits "seconds" as far as we are concerned, but should be easily repairable for a modeller of intermediate skills. The kits have all the usual etched brass, decals, comprehensive instructions etc. The kit is usually priced at 112.80 Pounds post free (about $160.00) but to three SMMLlies out there, these are to clear at 95.00 Pounds ($134.90) each. Remember what Ray Bean (of PSM) said recently.... "FOR THOSE OF YOU CONTEMPLATING A PURCHASE OF THIS KIT, ITS AN EASIER BUILD THAN THE STODDERT KIT, AND MONEY WELL SPENT. Bravo Zulu to WEM, their casters and builders of the master.." Look for Ray's stunning build in a future issue of Plastic Ship Modeler magazine. Other news... Peter Hall's master patterns for the 1/600 Type 42 destroyer, HMS EXETER 2002, are being passed to WEM for production (this should make that CPO John Currie happy!). This will come complete with photoetched brass and decals, and we envisage it being the first of a new 1/600 range IF enough orders are placed. Parts from this model will also be added to the WEM PRO 600 range to detail up those old Airfix kits. The kit has the code WEM K 601 and can be built either full hull or waterline (a la 1/350 KNOX etc.). At this stage we are unable to give a price as this will depend mainly on the actual cost of casting. However, please feel free to place pre-orders with me personally, or go to http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/wemorder.htm for the WEM online order form. This IS quite a commitment by us to the 1/600 Scale modeller, so we look forward to hearing back from those enthusiastic folks who've been posting to the SMML over the past few days .. we know who you are ;^) Cheers, John and Caroline Snyder White Ensign Models http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume