Subject: SMML VOL 1655 Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2002 13:44:34 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Beijing Model Shops and Zheng/Chen Ho Sailing Ship Model 2: Re: Moving models 3: Re: What was the colour of cinammon in 1904? 4: Re: If Fine Arts Models! 5: Re: Skipjack 6: Tightening rigging 7: Re: USN WWII Carrier decks 8: Re: more Skipjack (SSN-585) 9: USS SKIPJACK COLORS 10: Wilhelm Gustoff -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Kerry L. Jang" Subject: Beijing Model Shops and Zheng/Chen Ho Sailing Ship Model Hi All, Two things: 1) Does anyone know of a good place to buy models in Beijing, China? I will be there in July and would like to do some shopping! 2) My local hobby shop just called me, the new TRUMPETER kit of the Ming Dynasty Treasure ship sailed by the eunuch Zheng Ho just arrived. I have not seen the kit contents yet (maybe this weekend), but the box is HUGE I am told, about the same as the Heller Victory kit. The price retails in Canada at $159.00 Canadian dollars. Cheers, Kerry Jang -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Peter K. H. Mispelkamp Subject: Re: Moving models I have had to move completed models twice - but luckily, both were local moves. Since I had about 60 completed items (that is "ships" and those wretched "winged things") I did not want to hand carry them all. I took the bottom of an old Heller big ship 1/400 kit box and literally sewed them them in with black thread - sort of like tie-downs on an a CV. Be careful not to put too much pressure on the landing gear of completed aircraft and you should be alright. As for the ships, big ships can be nestled against each other - but you might want to protect their sides from scraping their neighbours with a very slim piece of cardboard cut to height of the hull. . Once all the models that could fit were "tied down", I simply placed the box on the back seat and drove very slowly :))) My wive was kind enough to ride shotgun and hold another box in her lap. This worked for me - but as I have said they were local moves. My collection of over 200 unbuilt kits was much easier to pack and move:))) - guess there's something to be said for "procrastination". Hope this helps - and have a safe move. Sincerely Peter K. H. Mispelkamp -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "D.Przezdziecki" Subject: Re: What was the colour of cinammon in 1904? It seems to be even more confusing than that Pirie. The only colours actually mentioned in Russian sources are olive, soot (black) and ochre and the only mix which makes any sort of sence according to the sources is 4 (olive) : 1 (soot) :2 (ochre)*. Now Russians called this mix "gray olive" but mix those ingredients any way you like and the only colour you will get will be olive green and even than it will be only medium olive green and not dark olive green. I also have some doubts (with all due respect) about the possible interpretation of McCully's report as "either-or" since he seems to be quite clear that only upper parts of capital ships were painted such to better blend with local condition. Also there is a photo of Pobieda which show that at least one ship was painted in two tone scheme. Taking into consideration colours mentioned in Russian sources, my opinion is that Pobieda's hull was left in the original olive green but that her upper works were painted either ochre or a mixture of ochre and soot. So I have to conclude that McCully's notes were (IMO) either garbled or innacurate or both. BTW could you tell me more about the "rust" colour paint chip mentioned by Ronnberg??? Does he mention what country had used this colour it and when??? Regards D.P. * it was Falk Pletscher (to my knowledge) who first come up with 4/1/2 ratio for the early Port Arthur scheme and I am in complete agreement with him on this issue. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: BECJPARKER@aol.com Subject: Re: If Fine Arts Models! If the Fine Arts Models web page puts the wind in your sail take a look at this page. http://www.maritimereplicas.com/home.htm -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: Skipjack >> What is the right colour scheme for the USS Skipjack SSN-585 ? Revell suggest black hull and grey superstructures, but I found photos of models painted all black or also red and black. And is there an article about how to improve the Revell kit? << You actually have several choices of color schemes for the Skipjack class. During various periods, one or more of the submarines were all black, or half black (upper hull) and half red (lower hull). Some of the subs (e.g., Scorpion) had a black with light gray vertical surfaces. See: http://home.cshore.com/sbice/sculpin.html http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/8319/Launch.jpg http://www.geocities.com/Heartland/Plains/8319/Setrls.jpg http://snook592.topcities.com/main.html http://srd.yahoo.com/goo/skipjack+uss/1/T=1019088219/F=fac7516ff5a000a34fc41b90f11ae88f/*http://www.subnet.com/fleet/ssn585.htm Here's the Gray paint scheme I mentioned on Scorpion: http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/systems/ship/images/uss-scorpion16.jpg and some color pictures at: http://www.globalsecurity.org/military/systems/ship/ssn-585-gallery.htm There was an extremely detailed article on fixing the Skipjack kit (Aurora, then Monogram, now Revell) in the SubCommittee Report by Ken Hart about 10-11 years ago. Came complete with top, portside, bow, stern and botton drawing views. It's a whole lot of work, to say the least... You will need a new propeller, reconfigure the sail, rescribe the correct details, etc., etc. Tom Dougherty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Doug Bauer" Subject: Tightening rigging I've heard a good way to tighten stretched sprue rigging is to carefully apply heat and it will tighten right up....but what's the safest way to do this? I tried very slowly approaching the plastic stays with a heated soldering iron, even blowing the heat onto the rigging to avoid getting too close, but that apparently isn't the way to get the job done. I'd appreciate any suggestions. BTW, thank you Duane Fowler for the info on the DKM flags and jacks a few SMML posts ago.. Doug Bauer Poway, CA -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Doug Wilde" Subject: Re: USN WWII Carrier decks I just uploaded an image that may be of interest. This is a close-up of the damage done to USS Wolverine's wood deck by the prop of a plane tangled in the crash barrier. http://www.cox-internet.com/wilde/Images/deck.jpg The comments on the original photograph were: Left Comment - "Gash cut in steel deck below wooden deck" Right Comment - "Tip of prop torn off in crash" You'll notice some of the bolts that hold the (now missing) plank in place, those light dots near the bottom. Also note the pitch paid between planks. Also a nice close-up of the tie-down/drains. The official caption on this Restricted photo was "Rip in deck caused by prop of SNJ-3C crashing into barriers, tip of prop at one side." The other photograph is of the plane, 45 degrees nose down, as its prop digs into the deck, pieces flying through the air. RG19 Box 413 IX64 vol. 5 Other photos show anywhere from nine to eleven planks between drains. Doug Wilde -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Ives100@aol.com Subject: Re: more Skipjack (SSN-585) I found the Ken Hart article and plans for fixing the SSN-585 Skipjack kit from the old SubCommittee report. It describes how to accurize the (Aurora, Monogram, now Revell) Skipjack kit. Excellent set of line drawings with the article. It was issue # 7 in 1991 (the only one I have for that year). I scanned the article and drawings, so, if you really, really want a copy, send me an email. I will do one semi-mass mailing to all who request it by Friday. CAUTION: You may want to toss those Revell kits after reading this and get a Blue Water Navy Skipjack. Tom Dougherty -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "John Anderson" Subject: USS SKIPJACK COLORS >> What is the right color scheme for the USS Skipjack SSN-585? Revel Suggest black hull and gray superstructures, but I found photos of models Painted all black or also red and black. And is there an article about how To improve the Revel kit? << Pietro, Post your Request on the sub committee web site under general posting I am sure there are some USS SKIPJACK experts there Here is the URL The SubCommittee: Message Boards Good luck John -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "David Ian Moore" Subject: Wilhelm Gustoff To answer an inquiry from a friend, would any SMMLie have info they could provide re Kits, plans or modeling specs on Wilhem Gusto. I realize a recent thread mentioned the specifics of the disaster. Thanks Ian Moore -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume