Subject: SMML VOL 1865 Date: Mon, 12 Aug 2002 00:16:29 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Resin 2: Armored windows, glueing pe getting it straight 3: Yawata maru 4: Re: Chinese cruisers 5: Re: Competitions/Contests, models, and Coasties 6: Re: IPMS and PE 7: Re: BOB STEINBRUNN'S RULES 8: Re: Show costs ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: NAVYDAZE@aol.com Subject: Resin OK I think I am about ready to bite the big one and try a resin model. Any suggestions. Since I guess most of you have built some you might be able to give me some tips on which one to start with. I have read everything I can on it, but obviously what attracts me to them is the wide spectrum that is not available in styrene. Of course I am not sure which I prefer 1/700 or 1/350, I think I would lean towards the latter. Also have any of you decided that Resin is the way to go and you are not doing any injection styrene any more or would I still most likely be doing both if I like the resin. OK SMMLies I need your advise Michael Donegan NAVYDAZE Naval & Aviation Artist http://www.navydaze.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Kjetil Lindahl" Subject: Armored windows, glueing pe getting it straight The problem with glueing PE with superglue is that it gives no time for adjustment and is hard to remove. For parts like doors, hatches and railings that have large bonding surfaces thinned white glue like Microscale Kristal Clear and a paintbrush works much better and gives you time too align the part. If the parts are primed first it is more than strong enough. For doors you can drill a hole where the door will be placed to stop glue from seeping out at the edges. White glue does not work on radars, masts, cranes and other assemblies that needs strenght or has tiny contact points, but it is often possible to glue a piece of thin styrene strip to the attachment point on the brass part with superglue, trim the plastic down so you have a tiny attachment point of styrene on the brass part and then use plastic cement to attach it. You can strengthen it with thin superglue when the parts are in place. Kjetil Lindahl ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "John Sutherland" Subject: Yawata maru The Yawata maru is actually an Aoshima kit - not Hasegawa unless they have grabbed the moulds. The kit was issued with her two sisters - Nitta Maru and Kasuga Maru. I have all three. All the instructions are in Japanese. From the box art - the ships seem to be black lower hull and funnel (the latter with broad white/red/white/red/white banding provided as a decal), white upper works, wooden trim and teak or cyprus decks. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Lars Scharff" Subject: Re: Chinese cruisers Hi George, thank you for the hint. I know only the article about Chinese Imperial Navy. Does the article about the Elswick cruisers contain a photo of Chih Yuan not taken in Solent in 1887 ? At this time she was painted grey, but after her arrival in China, she was painted in a typical victorian colour scheme. But I never seen any photos of her in this scheme, only a drawing of her sister ship after the Battle of Yalu in 'Chinese Steam Navy' by Wright. Or is it a photo of a builders model? Best regards Lars Scharff ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Competitions/Contests, models, and Coasties For Bob Steinbrun: Well said, friend. Written like the modelers' Bill Bryson (anyone who has read any of Bryson will know what I mean). Bob's words should be included in the handout material at every IPMS/USA Nationals. I've attended a few of these events, as entrant, as judge, as vendor. Bob hit the nail right on the head for all of the above. >> For fun, I spend a good deal of time and some money as a living history reenactor [1833-1865, mostly 1846, Army. << Ah, the Year of Decision; great period. >> The greater reward for the amateur historian/modeler however, would be to bring back the memories of someone who dedicated a portion of his life to protecting us all. << That's one of the reasons--in these days when I have no time to build models--I wear my uniform while on the WEM stand. Even here in the UK it draws in the veterans, whose faces light up at seeing someone else who served, even if not in the same Navy. I've had delightful times at the past two Scale Model World (IPMS/UK) events, and at the Fleet Air Arm Model Show talking with RN and merchant navy vets from WW2 and later. So keep it up, Roland (and others); it DOES mean something important to some very important people. Best, John Snyder The Token Yank White Ensign Models http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: IPMS and PE Rusty, I will not comment more on the plastic subject but I want to clear up one point of history. Modelers HAD heard of using PE 10 years ago. I used self-designed PE on a ship model that was the basis for a series of articles I wrote that appeared in the March 1984 issue of a ship model magazine. Figuring the magazine lead time, the model was started in 1983 which means I used PE almost 20 years ago. And some others including Loren Perry I think did so before that. Cheers, Bob Santos ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: BOB STEINBRUNN'S RULES I agree 100% with Bob Steinbrunn's Rules. Every modeler, upon submitting a model into a competition, should have to read them twice and sign his or her agreement!! Cheers, Bob Santos (who stopped competing years ago) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: AAA Hobby Subject: Re: Show costs >> I've been reading the thread about the IPMS Nationals. My question is this. How much did that show cost? Back in '97 my IPMS Chapter Delaware Valley Scale Modelers hosted a Regional contest and this costed $13,000. << I don't remember the bid amount for this show, but as comparison both the Phoenix and Orange County bids were projecting total costs in the $90-100K range. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume