Subject: SMML VOL 1867 Date: Tue, 13 Aug 2002 02:08:24 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: They are lost and needs to be found 2: Russian Guns 3: Re: First resin kit 4: Re: Rigging questions 5: 15.0cm turrets 6: Re: USE OF SUPERGLUE & IPMS RULES 7: Competitions 8: Re: IPMS PE 9: IPMS & PE 10: Superglue and PE ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Pwesty" Subject: They are lost and needs to be found Hi list I was just wondering if anybody knows of any plans by anyone to go after the lost carriers? What I mean by this is if anyone is out there is looking for Lexington(cv-2) Hornet(cv-8) and Wasp(cv-7)? Just wondering ;-? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: NAVYDAZE@aol.com Subject: Russian Guns I have noticed on some of the Russian guns such as the 130mm/70s that the base of them is really rough and irregular - it almost looks like concrete or poorly cast metal at the very best - anyone know what the base of these guns are made of Michael Donegan NAVYDAZE Naval & Aviation Artist http://www.navydaze.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "David Griffith" Subject: Re: First resin kit >> OK I think I am about ready to bite the big one and try a resin model. Any suggestions. << Dear Mike, May I suggest to you the subject I chose as my first resin ship, last year? The Flower Class corvette by L'Arsenal in 1/400. It really is quite delightful. As a first try, its biggest virtue is that it's small and inexpensive, but by and large excellent quality. Most of the resin bits are very well cast, with no airholes, although I did replace the depth charges as they didn't look too convincing. Most of the photo etch is very good, too; except the railings, which look like a post and rail farm fence and need replacing with something else, like White Ensign. OK, so at 6" long it doesn't have much of a "Wow" factor, but then, as a Brit, brought up on Jack Hawkins in "The Cruel Sea", etc, I consider that it has a pretty high "Ahhh" factor on the charm scale! Just to throw in my own three ha'p'orth about the judging thread; I'll be taking this model down to Telford to enter in the British IPMS Nationals in November. I don't care if I don't win anything (and if Jim Baumann is entering, then I certainly won't be winning gold, and deservedly so). But I think that people look much more closely at models on the competition tables than on club tables, and this is the whole reason for exhibiting something, so that others can look and (hopefully) admire, ponder and be inspired, and thereby promote our hobby. And, as you might guess, if someone asks me, "How did you do such-and-such?" I'm not going to turn round and say "That's for me to know and you to guess." Regards, David Griffith ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "David Griffith" Subject: Re: Rigging questions Sean Chow wrote, >> I'm pretty new to building ships but not too bad at them. However I'm really bad with the rigging. Could someone please tell me what it's made of. Is it heated sprue, nylon, thread? What type of glue is needed? << Dear Sean, Welcome to the hobby! I don't think there is a better place to get your questions answered. In terms of bringing a model to life, rigging is worth far more than its weight. The problem is finding something that is sufficiently fine that it doesn't appear overscale. I've mentioned what I'm using before on the list, but perhaps you haven't subscribed for all that long, so I hope that longstanding members won't mind if I repeat myself. (Flame me off list if any of you are annoyed!!) For the heavier rigging I use the material that hairdressers use for hair extensions, the man made stuff, not real human hair, and black in colour. Just go into a shop, grin and ask. The girl will be more embarrassed than you! The really fine wires, aerials, signal halliards, etc, I do with braided nylon sash cord, teased out to individual fibres, almost invisible, and stained with a black marker pen. This stuff is almost impossible to see without a light coloured background. For glueing, you can use, amongst other things, polyurethane varnish, old-fashioned stationer's gum, or fisherman's rod varnish. All of these dry clear but are very tacky while they do it. Rod varnish does require acetone to clean your brush, though. You don't have to pull the fibres up tight, as that will just pull the masts to bits if you have a tremor like mine. Leave a little slack and then apply heat by holding a small soldering iron or a cigarette just underneath the fibres. They will droop a bit and then pull up tight themselves. Don't get too close or they will melt and snap! Hope that helps. Regards, David Griffith ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: royrichey@att.net Subject: 15.0cm turrets Questions for the Kreigsmarine guys and gals. I need the length, and the width of the 15.0cm twin turrets mounted on the Scharnhorst class. I have a decent drawing, but no scale. Roy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com Subject: Re: USE OF SUPERGLUE & IPMS RULES >> May I suggest to the person who said that one cannot use superglue with PE, as the former sets up too quickly, that he buy the thick type and let it become stale before use. It always worked for me. << I would also suggest purchasing the "slow set" glue. This allows plenty of time to position or re position the parts on the model. >> IPMS rules. When entering into a competition, LIE: This way, the rules will not apply to you. << I'm really hoping this comment was made tongue-in-cheek (hard to tell in this forum). Of course anyone can lie on the entry form and probably get away with it. We take this VERY seriously when accusations of impropriety are made. Usually (although there is no set procedure) the accusations should be backed up by multiple witnesses present at the competition. However, if it can be proven that one has lied on the entry form, it could prove to be very embarrassing to the modeler in question. They will indeed be asked about the accusations by the Chief Judge and a decision will be rendered as to whether the model is allowed to remain in competition by him. All of this can prove to be quite embarrassing even if held in private meetings. So why not fill out the entry form TRUTHFULLY and save everyone the potential problems. It's only a model contest. If this comment was made tongue-in-cheek disregard this post. Rusty White # 20181 Head Ship Judge Chairman 2003 IPMS/USA National Convention http://www.ipmsmetrookc.org OKC In 2003! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Lou Meszaros Subject: Competitions Bob, Well written, I hope you don't mind if I post to my modeling community in www.modelwarshipcombat.com Thanks, Lou ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: SantMin@aol.com Subject: Re: IPMS PE Sorry Rusty, I inadvertently deleted your original posting but I thought there was a statement in there to the effect "no one heard of PE 10 years ago." I stand corrected and apologize. Cheers, Bob Santos ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Loren Perry Subject: IPMS & PE From: SHIPMDLR@aol.com >> I'm well aware of the contribution both you and Loren have made to the photo etch industry and I would never think of denying you that. I personally had Loren provide me with a history of GMM when I wrote the article for the 20 year anniversary issue of FSM. I gave Loren credit for his contribution then, but they chose to edit the manuscript. << I believe Rusty's assertion, having seen first-hand how a magazine's editing can have a major effect on an author's article. I was experimenting with computer-generated drawings around the same time Rusty was, and the earliest samples of computer art seen in a GMM product are the nets and ladders found on the current 1/700 IJN Carrier set and 1/700 Modern British Warship and British Carrier sets. All of this was produced on an inexpensive dot-matrix printer, and pasted up the old fashioned way onto a hand-drawn master drawing. The lettering on some of these and other early sets were also computer generated. (Previous lettering was accomplished with dry-transfer sets.) And our hand-drawn 1/350, 1/400, and 1/700 Watertight Door sets were likely the first 3-D relief etched ship details available commercially. But in all fairness, it was indeed Rusty White who pioneered 100% computer-generated artwork for PE ship detailing sets. I give him full credit for forcing GMM into the computer age all the way. Our first 100% CAD-generated ship detailing products were the 1/350 Emden, the 1/350 Modern USN Warship, and the 1/700 CVE/CVL sets. And our entire range for N and HO scale model railroaders was computer-generated from Day One. Loren Perry/GMM ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Loren Perry Subject: Superglue and PE From: WRPRESSINC@aol.com >> May I suggest to the person who said that one cannot use superglue with PE, as the former sets up too quickly, that he buy the thick type and let it become stale before use. It always worked for me. << There's a saying out there that goes something like this:"Just because I can't do something doesn't mean it can't be done." Superglue (or more correctly, cyanoacryate - CA - adhesives) can indeed be used with PE. It's done every day by hundreds, probably thousands of modelers every day. It's the only adhesive I personally use on PE. My preferred brand is ZAP CA (in the pink label) by Pacer Technologies. Their ZAP-A-GAP (green label) is also one of my favorites. Both have a shelf life of about six months (much longer if kept frozen in storage.) Anyone who says superglue can't be used on PE just hasn't tried enough, or is using an inferior brand. Try modeling-type CA glues, not the hardware store variety. There's a big difference. Loren Perry/GMM ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume