Subject: SMML VOL 1877 Date: Sun, 18 Aug 2002 00:13:42 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Patrol Craft models for book 2: Re: To rust or not to rust 3: Re: One for you Russian fans out there/chastisement 4: Interesting items on eBay 5: Photo Etch 6: Keith Bender 7: Re: weathering 8: Re: Weathering 9: Realistic paint jobs ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Information 1: Austin Scale Model Show ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: WVeigele@aol.com Subject: Re: Patrol Craft models for book Steve, My email address is wveigele@aol.com Yes. I would like the photo of a PGM. Bill Veigele ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: NAVYDAZE@aol.com Subject: Re: To rust or not to rust OK, here I go again. Rust, I love rust, I collect piece of it, photograph it and so on, to use for reference for models or art. There are a lot of different shades of rust from the bright orange of new rust to the deep maroon/brown of old rusting metal. To me a painting of a ship is not a painting without some rust somewhere - same with models. But what I see sometimes is rust in the traditional red/brick color that is just smeared on - not always accurate. Remember, that rust is either on exposed metal or coming from exposed metal or from under the gray paint itself. When it leeches thru the paint it may indeed have a smeared look to the overall gray paint, at least in spots. If it is coming from rusted metal in may run down and stain the paint below it and still has the red/brick color. However, rusted metal, is usually very darkish brown, with tints of maroon and black in it. The areas around it will have the typical smudged red/brick color. But where to put it is also important. You have to imagine if it is raining, or if water is coming over the bow, etc., then where is it going to go to drain off the ship. That will usually be a source of rusted paint, as is hawspipes for the anchor. Usually if you can put no rust anywhere else on the ship you are going to get it on the anchor and below. Also it will be noticed directly on the bow itself as the wave action will loosen or knock paint off, giving rust a change to "grow". The main deck or foc'sle will usually have some rust somewhere, especially around equipment like winches that get a lot of use and not much maintenance in some cases In extreme case of rust on a ship it will not only be in large areas but also it can even follow the frames of the ships hull itself and those areas will be very dark, almost like someone outlined the frames with dark rust. A while back we talked about "oil canning", I have found that anytime there is a dent or crease in the hull which leaves some sort of edge along the dent, that is one of the first place you will find the dark rust. Well, there is probably more I can say on rust, but I think that is all for tonight. One think you may want to do is take a look at some of the armor models built by our fellow modelers. Especially those models of with desert colors such as in Africa during WWII. The color value is about the same between Navy gray and desert tan and you can see how they use it on their models - again watch for the dark rust they use. As I said there are many different colors of rust for different reasons Michael Donegan NAVYDAZE Naval & Aviation Artist http://www.navydaze.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Roland Mar Subject: Re: One for you Russian fans out there/chastisement Bokh Pomagat, Gospodin Cornelisson! Eh Kommitet po Gosudarstvenoy Besopaznosti. Yah ochen' zhalkii! ;-) Roland Mar ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: paulship37@aol.com Subject: Interesting items on eBay I saw these items for sale at eBay: U.S.S. Tennessee - Battleship at Peace & War http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1556578371 RARE 1969 Book Soviet Merchant Ships 1945-68 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1556558322 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: NAVYDAZE@aol.com Subject: Photo Etch Is there any companies that just make a PE sheet for radar, I would need both modern and W.W.II for 1/700. Thanks Michael Donegan NAVYDAZE Naval & Aviation Artist http://www.navydaze.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "John Anderson" Subject: Keith Bender Keith Bender, Please Contact me I really need some motivation for the project, we have been discussing, Riverwind14@attbi.com John Anderson ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Ted0330@aol.com Subject: Re: weathering Glad to see some discussion of weathering. I admire those who do it- some of the 'distressing' looks vividly real. I recall tips I read about model RR scenery- it should have the appearance of the ground as seen from an airplane at about 500-1000 feet (for HO scale- 1:82). When you look at the ground from that height, you don't see patchy grass, only green. You don't see subtle variations in the color of soil, only brown. Patches of tall grass and weeds stand out, but only as green bundles. This same scale effect applies to ships. Even in 1:350, let alone 1:700, the ship is being seen as if it were thousands of feet away. My issue with weathering is not that it does not represent a real phenomenon, or that it 'uglifies' a model. It's out of scale. Ship modellers concern themselves with the scale effect on lightening shades of paint, a significant concern for visual realism, then worry about 'oilcanning' or subtle variations in shade from weathering. None of those details would be visible in the scales we typically work in. The charm of a model is you get to engulf the whole object with you eye in one glance, as if far away, while seeing details as if you were up close. Out of scale details detract from this satisfying illusion. Weahering, while admirable, almost always looks out of scale. Even on HO RRs in 1:82 weathering can look clumsy unless very subtly done. How much more so in 1:350? Ted Tsaltas ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Fkbrown90@aol.com Subject: Re: Weathering To Rusty White Thanks for your opinion. That, to me, is one of the valuable assets of SMML, the sharing of opinions and experiences, which can often relieve other SMML people from the task of "reinventing the wheel", as it were. A case of "Ya pays ya money and ya takes ya choice", or as the hippies used to say, "Whatever turns you on!" By the way, is this how you got the sobriquet "Rusty" White (please forgive me, I just couldn't resist myself)? Franklyn Brown ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "stuart page" Subject: Realistic paint jobs Hi! I am fairly new to ship modelling and have so far only made 2 models - the Hood and Belfast - both 1/600 airfix. I painted both of these models using the traditional humbrol paints without any effect added to show weathering, rust, or realism. I am now in the middle of putting together the tamiya 1/350 p.o.w. and am unsure how to add the following effects when painting:- 1. Weathering 2. Rust 3. A realistic 'steel' look to the ship(as i find some models look too plastic) I would be grateful if anyone could help me with this. Stuart Page - future gold medal winner(in my dreams!) Hi Stuart, Better watch out mate as dreams sometimes have a habit of coming true ;-) Shane ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Information ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Bruce Burden Subject: Austin Scale Model Show Hi gang, The Austin Scale Model Show will be help on 24 August, at the Crockett Center, 6301 US-290E, 1/2 mile east of I-35. Doors open at 9:00AM. For more information, please vist out website at: http://www.kithobbyist.com/ASMS Thank you, Bruce ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume