Subject: SMML VOL 1946 Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 02:03:51 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Color of Polish Ships 2: Yamato wreck video 3: Re: How many errors do you allow in your models? 4: Re: Wash Technique 5: Re: DUKW 6: Re: seals Izumo 7: Re: "Errors" 8: Future ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "David N. Lombard" Subject: Color of Polish Ships I'm trying to do justice to Mirage's various ships. According to a known-to-be-questionable reference, "The Painter's Guide to World War Two Naval Camouflage", >> Both the 1937 and 1942 editions of "Jane's Fighting Ships" indicate Polish Naval vessels were painted "grey-green" during the early part of the war << Comments? Mirage's instructions reference somewhat generic Tamiya colors. Didn't check the Humbrol colors. BTW, Mirage is now coming out with PE. They currently have sheets for MAZUR (35 and 39 fits) and KAZSUB. Part, another Polish manuf, also has PE for MAZUR available, but they don't indicate the year. Hopefully I'll be able to get the PE from some *wonderful* local model shops, Brookhurst Hobbies (Garden Grove, CA) or The Military Shop (Long Beach, CA). No affiliation, just trying to support my local stores... David N. Lombard Rossmoor, Orange County, CA N 33 deg, 48', W 118 deg, 5' ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Richa5011@aol.com Subject: Yamato wreck video Lou wrote: >> Has anyone seen the documentary of the expedition of the Yamato? Was it made into a video? << Yes there is a video of what was broadcast on Japanese TV, but it was in Japanese (no subtitles)...so I just enjoyed the film and hummed quietly to myself. Nat ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Ken Goldman" Subject: Re: How many errors do you allow in your models? I enjoy scratch building little fiddly bits, so if I know something is wrong on a model I will try to correct it, but I will give more weight to adapting my "correct" parts to the overall look of the model (does it visually fit with the rest of the kit) than I will to dead-on accuracy. If I am scratch building the whole thing, however, I get compulsive about getting it right and end up on the receiving end of strange askance looks from my wife. As for sins of ommission or commission, I would tend to leave off small details rather than add things I knew were wrong. Then again, if the model looks way cool, I might just build it as designed and just have fun buiding the thing. Sometimes ignorance is bliss -- and there generally is an out-of-the-box competition category. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER unique wood sculpture and fine scale models www.walruscarpenter.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Wash Technique >> My prefferred way doing it is this; Once I finish painting the model and ready for a wash, I apply a nice coat of Future. Let it dry completely. I give a black wash with terpentine. This stuff is strong, takes a long time to dry and sticky, but if you apply a nice coat and wait enough to handle, it is the best medium to flow nicely on the future. << OK, when you head down to the art supply store to pick up your turpentine and tube(s) of artists' oil paint, also pick up a small bottle of drying oil. Add that to your wash, and you'll make a substantial reduction in the drying time required. I also agree with Tim Reynaga regarding black being too dark for a wash on teak decks. Using artists' oils, choose raw umber or burnt umber (or a mix of both) for a much better look. For washes over gray (or grey) surfaces, I like to use Payne's Gray. Best, John Snyder White Ensign Models http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Dirk Emmermacher" Subject: Re: DUKW Hello Paul, hello Gary, hello Steve and Mike too. Its nice to know that and Italeri kit is available. I will take a look to my dealer and hope to find a kit. Best regards. Dirk IG Mikromodell http://www.mikromodell.de mailto:emmermacher@hotmail.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Pieter Cornelissen Subject: Re: seals Izumo >> http://www.kurasc.kyoto-u.ac.jp/radar-group/members/gernot/izumo/main.html << WHooooooaaaa! Eerrrr...lets put this another way. Gernot, could you please be so kind as to comment on the quality of this kit and the effort needed to get to this detail level before I order one? Pieter Cornelissen Delft, the Netherlands Founding member of 'Predreadnoholics Anonymous' ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Fkbrown90@aol.com Subject: Re: "Errors" To Kerry Jang It depends somewhat on how one defines "error". If a genuine major mistake is made, and correction thereof is impractical, for any reason, a "cover up" may be a viable solution. Sort of a "Who's to know ?" approach. I recently completed a model of a W W 1 110 Ft. wooden hulled submarine chaser. A total of 440 were speedily produced in some 38 small boatyards scattered on all four coasts of the U.S. in 1917 and 1918. These different boatyards tended to use different regional techniques. Whereas Anti Submarine Warfare was being quickly developed, many of the boats were receiving up-dates and re-fits almost as soon as they were commissioned, sometimes in their war zones. As a result, I have concluded from my literature research that no two vessels were exactly alike. Each wore a large hull number on the bows, therefore what number should I choose for my model? I decided to select a number almost at random, and then "load" the model with every feature I could find in the many photos and drawings I could find. I doubt if there ever was a boat so equipped. But the model does demonstrate equipment that did appear on the ships, as a class if not on any particular chaser. Sort of a generic approach. True, if one looks carefully at pictures of the original whose number I used, there are "errors" as there will be equipment on the model not appearing in the pictures. This would be true for any of the 440 numbers, however. My justification (if any) is that in doing so I display an overview of the state-of-the-art of that genre rather than a precise portrait of any specific example. Therefore I do not consider any anomalies as an error, even though a crew member (none of whom are alive today) could look and snort "We never had that on old 96!!!". "Ya pays ya money and ya takes ya choice. If ya think one is bad, the other is woice." Franklyn ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: David Miller Subject: Future Unlike many others, I can not report good results with Future floor polish. Since it is so highly recommended I have attempted to use it about three or four times, for different applications and have encountered the following problems. 1. When applied by brush or sponge, it retains brush marks. It does not give me the smooth, level, finish mentioned by others. 2. Applying Future with an airbrush is a pain. I repeatedly clogs the airbrush, and gives a poor finish, with bubbles. 3. LONG drying time. I recently used Future to finish a prop spinner on a plastic airplane model (sorry!), and it looked great, until I touched it 24 hours later. It still had tack, and left fingerprints. 4. While "drying", it seems to attract every bit of dust within 15 miles. I do not have such dust problems with solvent based clear coats. Have any of you modelers had similar problems with Future? Any solutions? Dave Miller Macomb, IL ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume