Subject: SMML VOL 1947 Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2002 14:06:57 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Washes -- Be Careful -- 2: Future 3: Acceptable Errors 4: hood and bismarck 5: Proposed battleships 6: Errors 7: Re: That open letter to Jim Baumann 8: Taiwan launches first stealth boat - SEPT 27, 2002 9: US Navy denies collision 10: Future -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Quick note ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Kerry L. Jang" Subject: Washes -- Be Careful -- I use washes all the time. I like oil paints but I use mineral spirits instead of turpentine now. Turpentine is stronger than mineral spirits and can dissolve acrylic paints (I usually use acrylic paints like Tamiya). On my most recent model I painted it using WEM colourcoats paint (enamels). After it was dry, I airbrushed on a coat of Pollyscale acrylic matt (as a barrier coat), and did the wash using oil paints and mineral spirits. It worked fine. Washing over matt paints gives far better results than gloss. I don't like Future as a clearcoat at all. It never seems to work for me and Pollyscale gloss works a treat. Dr. Kerry Jang Vancouver, Canada ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "James M. Pasquill, II" Subject: Future I too read all the glowing reports of success with Future and tried it as a gloss base under some decals. First problem was brush streaks which I removed with a fiberglass filament eraser. Then when I tried days later to apply the decals the decal setting solution (Solvaset) lifted the Future. Jim ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Kerry L. Jang" Subject: Acceptable Errors Franklyn and Ken comments are dead on. Like these gentlemen, when I am scratchbuilding something, I strive for the greatest accuracy I can (assuming my plans are correct - many are not! -- and this also depends on if my skills can make the part well enough to do the plan justice!), but when I am kit building, I find that I am more lax. I think it is sheer laziness on my part -- it is easier to scratchbuild the part to the way I want it in the first place (you have total control over the process) than it is to fix someone else's mistake. Cheers, Dr. Kerry Jang Vancouver, Canada ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Robert Morris" Subject: hood and bismarck I came across an interesting paper at the Society of naval architects and marine engineers website. It's an analysis of the Hood and Bismarck sinkings. www.sname.org/AM2002/am2002_technical.htm Robert Morris North Benton OH USA ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "stuart page" Subject: Proposed battleships Hi, I was just wondering if there was a company that made a model of the proposed M2 battleships and G3 battlecruisers that were cancelled due to the washington treaty. If not, maybe its one for them to think about. Stuart Page GREAT Britain ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "George Peat" Subject: Errors I have found that the best way to TRY to avoid as many errors as possible is to spne more time on research before I start building a particular model. Drawings, Photographs where possible. contact with people who served on board again not always possible and then decide which period to build. I can quote several examples of errors pointed out by observers one in particulay being a gentleman who served on board HMS Rodney which I had built as she was in June 1943. [photographic evidence] who stated that Rodney did not have items in the place I had shown them, 20mm A/A guns, and when I asked him when he had served on board he replied July 1944 to 1945. I had built her to a period before he served on board. This can and does apply to all ships and periods, Decide when your model is represented, if necessary when launched, or as fitted and go for it as well as you can. There are modellers I know who put every bit of equipment that the ship was ever fitted with and then say that is is an accurate model The main thing to remember is that it is a hobby and if the builder believes he or she has done their best that is all that matters. Regards and good modelling George Peat ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "D.Przezdziecki" Subject: Re: That open letter to Jim Baumann Jim, I have prepared stinging and devastaingly clever rebuke to your post but than a couple of people took me gently aside and shown me the error of my ways. Please understand pre-dreadnoughts are my passion and after almost 20 years of research I think that I know quite a bit about them. That means that although I am not a "rivet counter" I do count portholes and tend to react (overreact??) strongly when I see error or mistake above certain level. Thinking about it cooly I probably should have offered assistance in private rather than grabbing for a loudspeaker but your Borodino "did my head in" :-) and once you press the "send" button of your Outlook Express what is done is done... I have also suspected you of hubris until another person, who shall remain nameless, informed me that it certainly wasn't one of your faults. In short, I overreacted and I apologise for that. If you decide that bygones can be bygones and if you decide that you find that you have a need for references about pre-dreadnoughts do not hesitate and let me know. Regards Darius Przezdziecki ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: JRKutina@webtv.net (John Kutina) Subject: Taiwan launches first stealth boat - SEPT 27, 2002 http://straitstimes.asia1.com.sg/asia/story/0,1870,145582,00.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: JRKutina@webtv.net (John Kutina) Subject: US Navy denies collision http://www.news.com.au/common/story_page/0,4057,5178726%255E401,00.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Jim Johnson" Subject: Future Mr. Miller, I suggest that whatever you are using, it can not be Future floor wax. (It is not polish, it is a clear acrylic coating). The results you report can not be correct if you are using Future. Throw the bottle you have away and get a fresh bottle. I find it almost impossible to leave brush marks in future. If you get runs, you can wipe them off with a cloth or your fingers with out leaving a mark! The stuff is very self leveling. I usually use an airbrush and have never had a cloging problem. I shoot it straight from the bottle. Some people thin it with water ar alcohol but I havent found the need. I clean the airbrush with water followed by alcohol and have never ever had a problem. Future dries in a half hour or less. It can be used to seal areas of putty so the paint doesn't soak into the putty. It can be used as a gloss coat under decals so they don't silver. It can be used over the decals to seal them. It can be used as a clear gloss top coat. Clear parts can be dipped in it and they end up clearer. I haven't had any adverse reactions when overpainting with lacquer, enamel or acrylic. As a matter of fact, I use it under Alclad II metal finish as an undercoat with excellent results. If the first coat doesn't look great, put another coat over it. Second coats work better with an airbrush unless you let it sit overnight. A second coat with a brush tends to disolve the first coat unless it is properly cured. Future is wonderfull stuff. I don't know what you have, but it sure isn't normal Future. Go buy a new bottle at the supermarket, it will last you 20 years. HTH Jim Johnson ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Tom & Carolyn Harrison" Subject: Quick note Just a quick note, Back from fantastic vacation and our site is back up a running, we invite you to check out the new detailing sets and especially our new book and publication section. www.tomsmodelworks.com FYI our Hornet and Essex detailing sets are right on sechedule, they will be available when the kits are released. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume