Subject: SMML VOL 1961 Date: Sun, 06 Oct 2002 02:47:11 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: The Dangers of the Old References 2: Re: Could use some information Dumous Gato SUB kit 3: Scratchbuilding CVE hull 4: Takasago 5: Ballast placement for realistic pitch and roll 6: Ballast 7: Re: Could use some information Dumous Gato SUB kit 8: Scratchbuilding a 1/350 CVE Hull etc 9: Re: Dumas Gato Sub Kit 10: Re: Flower Class Hull 11: Steel Navy's October Mystery Model no.1 12: Re: Old References 13: Scratchbuilding hulls 14: Re: CVE ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Information 1: Tri-State NRG meeting -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: HMS Glowworm from WSW ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Dave Pluth" Subject: Re: The Dangers of the Old References >> I have to disagree, IMO only the most conceited of authors believe that their work can be the last and definitive word on the subject. << I would disagree completely with this statement. If your research isn't good enough to become the definative word on the subject and stand up to the test of time, it's not worth publishing. How many books do we see that come out with high expectations, but when we see them, they are simply the same regurgitated bunch of information that has been previously published. Dave ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Albert Choy Subject: Re: Could use some information Dumous Gato SUB kit I have built both Dumas' subs -- the Bluefish and the new Akula. Compared, it is generally easier to build the Akula. If you are handy with your hands you should be able to buld either ship. The instructions are good -- though you do need an ability to measure, cut and visualize how the parts come together. If you can handle this, the ship easily comes together. If you follow the instructions the sub should have no problems with leaks. The only issues I had related to: 1. the rear dive panes. The design is somewhat flimsy. This can be fixed with glass resin reinforcements. 2. with bit of ingenuity. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "David L. Miller" Subject: Scratchbuilding CVE hull Last year I scratcbuilt a CVE (Liscomb Bay) at 1/350. The hull turned out about 18 inches long. I obtained a good set of plans from Floating Drydock. The plans were for a model about six feet long, so I had to convert them to a 1/350 plan. I built the hull out of basswood and sheet aluminum. A bit of auto body filler was used. I successfully resin cast 16 Avengers for the flight deck. The basswood hull could have been used to make a mold for resin casting, but I did not do this. I did not feel my casting skills were up to the task, and I did not want to "practice" on the wooden hull. A few weeks ago I tried to resin cast a small (9 inch) steamer hull, and it turned out to be a mess and waste of materials. I ned to figure out what went wrong before I invest in more material. Dave Miller Macomb IL ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "John Rule" Subject: Takasago >> While it is impossible to categorically say that red or yellow were NEVER used, there are builders models of the ships of the period and from the period with black hull stripes but I haven't yet seen one with either red or yellow. << Good point. Sincerely, John Rule ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: RCClem Subject: Ballast placement for realistic pitch and roll I have used #6 buckshot. If you need enough weight and have enough volume to play in, try to place your ballast as forward and aft as you can. But don't seal it down just yet. I have found that small models with all of the ballast concentrated amidships tend to pitch unnaturally in small ripples. Is the correct term small 'polar inertia'? Correct me if this is incorrect. Ballast concentrated at the ends increases the inertia and causes the bow to 'plow ' into waves more realistically. But too much can be bad. Experiment before sealing it down so that you are not continually getting submerged. Most models are too small in the beam to make this practice work for rolling. Roger Clemens Hinsdale, Illinois ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Victor M. Baca" Subject: Ballast >> Help please, whats the best stuff to use to ballast a plastic hulled model and still allow for installation of r/c. << I like using lead for ballast. You can purchase a bag of lead (or bismuth) shot from a gun shop and have enough for several models. It can be placed in a small plastic bag so you can add, remove or move the ballast around the hull or mix it with epoxy for a more permanent ballast. If gun stores make you uncomfortable, you could also obtain lead from a sporting goods department that sells airgun pellets or BBs. I used to have a shooting range at my old house and "harvested" .22 and .45 caliber bullets for ballast taken from the target backstop's berm. Got twice the fun from a day at the range. BTW, whatcha building? Victor Baca ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Terry Wiltshire Subject: Re: Could use some information Dumous Gato SUB kit Don This months issue of the UK magazine Model Boats (Oct 2002) has a six page article in full colour on building the Dumas Bluefish. How easy it is for you to get a copy depends are whether you are in Portland England or the other one! Good Luck Terry Budapest ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Jeff Herne, NJAHOF" Subject: Scratchbuilding a 1/350 CVE Hull etc To Peter Randall: Contact me via email and I'll explain my methods, email is director - at - njahof.org To DP: I think you missed the crux of Mr. Raven's comment. While it is true that only the most conceited of authors consider their work to be the definitive end-all, the point I believe Alan was making was that once you become an author, you become the TARGET for people deliberately trying to question your work, or any information that you tend to offer. I guess it's human nature to try to unseat the 'expert'. Trust me, I know. I still get hammered for errors in my book that were made by the printer neglecting to make the changes to the manuscript prior to it's printing. Jeff Herne ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Ives100 Subject: Re: Dumas Gato Sub Kit Many in the SubCommittee have built this R/C "starter" submarine. Ask your questions at: http://www.subcommittee.com/ There are a set of message Boards- post tot the General one for Dumas Gato information & help. Tom Dougherty ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "M Brown" Subject: Re: Flower Class Hull Allan Pew at APS does 2 Flower Class hulls in Fibreglass. The original hull & the mine version with the squared off stern. Michael Brown ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "D.Przezdziecki" Subject: Steel Navy's October Mystery Model no.1 Those members of the SMML who are intereted in discussing the Mystery Model are invited to contact me offlist, this way nobody will be abble to protest that they are being informed about things they do not want to be informed about. Regards D.P ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: WRPRESSINC Subject: Re: Old References I am very upset to learn that you will not be an author in the future. I shall stand down from holding myself in readiness. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: EDWARD GRUNE Subject: Scratchbuilding hulls Peter Crandal asked for suggestions on building a CVE hull in 1:350 scale. I hope that Jon Warneke of ISW won't get mad for passing on some of his secrets. This trick becomes apparent when you look at some of the raw masters that Jon had at his booth at the IPMS Nats. 1) Obtain a set of plans that show the hull lines and have them scaled and copied to you preferred scale at a copy shop (i.e. Kinkos). 2) Laminate the hull lines onto sheets of Evergreen stock. Also laminate a copy of the hull elevation as the backbone or keel of the project. 3) Cut the hull lines from the Evergreen. Allow for the thickness of the keel. Glue these ribs into their locations along the keel. 4) When all ribs are in place, wrap the hull with masking tape. Leave some space along the topside for pour holes. 5) Mix and pour resin into the masking tape wrapped keel and ribs. Be careful with the volume of resin you pour at one time. It generates heat and can warp your styrene. 6) When the pour is complete and the resin is hard, remove the masking tape. Using a sanding block, sand any excess resin back to the rib lines. Pay special attention to the bow & stern compound curves. 7) Use progressively finer sandpaper to polish the hull. Apply filler putty where needed. 8) Build any additional structures (hangars, deck houses, etc) from styrene stock. Build appropriately shaped boxes and apply them to the hull. Add other external details from other materials (wire, solder, styrene strip stock, GMM hatches, etc). I used this method and Alumilite to make the hull on a 1:350 scale Great Lakes whaleback ore freighter - the John Ericcson. It came out nice. I have the keel and some ribs cut for a 1:350 scale Paulding class destroyer. There are other possibilities, such as laying up planks of wood - bread and butter style. All will entail adding material and taking away material that doesn't look like what you want the finished hull form to be - until you are satisfied. Ed Mansfield, TX ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Lkjohnson214 Subject: Re: CVE Hi, I have scratchbuilt three waterline CVEs in 1/300 for wargaming (A SANGAMON and two CASABLANCAs) They were built from Evergreen and Plastruct strip from the waterline up to the flight/gallery deck with horizontal decks made from .040" sheet. With the hull sides made from .080" x .250" and .100" x .250" stock and adding plenty of cross bracing, I ended up with hulls that were as rugged as a brick outhouse and stable. Not a sign of warpage in 5 years. Any questions, drop me a line LJ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Information ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: annobon4 Subject: Tri-State NRG meeting Hi Guys For any one interested living in the tri-state area the NRG -Nautical Research Guild is holding it's 2002 convention in the Philadelphia area at the Bucks County Sheraton Hotel from Oct 17-20,2002. It will have guest speakers,model ship displays,and RC Demonstration. Being sponsored by the Philadelphia Ship Model Society. Craig Bennett ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: rms Subject: HMS Glowworm from WSW I have received notification of two new kits from WSW/B-Resina: WSW 700-43; HMS Royal Oak, 1939. $95.00 BR 712; HMS Glowworm, 1939 G-class destroyer. $22.00 Other recent releases: WSW 700-42; Schleswig-Holstein, 1939. $46.00 WSW 700-19; Potemkin, 1905. $46.00 Shipping for all orders is $5.00 (U.S. addressess). Shipping is the same for one kit (cheap) or 10 kits (really cheap). I will fax a purchase order to WSW in Germany on Tuesday, 8 October. For a complete listing of all currently available kits and accessories, ordering and general information, please check out our web site: www.wic.net/~rms/ Questions/orders? Please contact me off list Thanks! Lisa D. Norman / aka Rocky Mountain Shipyard ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume