Subject: SMML VOL 2001 Date: Tue, 05 Nov 2002 11:48:02 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Keep your eyes open please 2: Resin Kits 3: Re: Handling a Fighting Sailing Ship 4: Cutting Square Edges 5: Small Parts 6: Re: Type 22s 7: Re: Wood Deck NJ - color 8: Re Type 22 Frigate 9: SMML 2K 10: Re: Wood Deck NJ - color 11: Sails, sailing ships, watches et al 12: Did You Ever Wonder 13: HMS Poppy et al 14: Re: Norman Friedmand's new book - U.S. Amphibious Ships and Craft 15: NJ deck color /question on dreadknoughs 16: Interesting item on eBay 17: Small parts 18: Where to get 1/600 Airfix HMS Amazon? 19: Re: SMML VOL 2000 20: Re: Small parts 21: SMML 2000 issue!!!! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: lamkeel Subject: Keep your eyes open please Hi you all Last week a friend of mine who was away undertaking research in Scotland, returned to find that his outside workshop had been broken into. His lathe had been taken and worst of all his working 1/48 scale model of HMS Espiegle (J 216) an Algerine Class Fleet Minesweeper. Gordon is a resident of Coleshill in Birmingham and the Chairman of the Surface Warship Association. His model is well known at various international model shows here in the UK, Isle of Man, and Germany and a regular award winner having been photographed for various model magazines. As its value is upwards of £9,000 with all its working parts it is a cruel loss. I (We) would appreciate a location, recovery and CONVICTION. (The Police have been informed (but at the time of writing had yet to attend ..... a normal state in our pleasant land at this time). Any information would be appreciated gents. (Gordon is an ex Chief ERA and served aboard Espiegle during his RN service). Yours "Aye" John ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Roger Buckley" Subject: Resin Kits Hi there In the past I have always made plastic kits(apart from a brief foray into Billing territory). I now have a cast resin kit and I dont want to ruin it by using the wrong paint. Should I use oil or water based paints or will this have no effect on matters. regards Roger Buckley ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Peter Webste Subject: Re: Handling a Fighting Sailing Ship I don't know about the arrangement for dealing with the rigging, but each gun deck was divided into divisions with an officer in charge of each division. The crew for each gun had a set full complement number. The number of men for a piece could 'ideally' be calculated by so many men per hundredweight of metal. I can't remember the exact ratio at present. Each man had an assigned position and set duties for the handling of the gun in action. The gunner's hand books of the period set this out including the revised positions/duties as the number of men reduced (though they didn't go as far as specifying how two or three guys would shift a couple of tons). If sevicing a piece became impractical one would assume the survivors would fill in for other gun crews. Peter Sydney, Oz ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Denis Keegan" Subject: Cutting Square Edges Try using a Chisel held at right angles to the work by a Square. The FLAT side against the surface of the plastic of course. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "John Rule" Subject: Small Parts >> It's damn difficult to get pieces of plastic less that 3 mm long to sand cleanly. How are you guys doing it? << Cutting a square edge is difficult with a knife type blade. Try using a razor saw with a mitre box. Sincerely, John Last message. Off to Scalemodelworld. Hope to see some of you. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: roberto paredes Subject: Re: Type 22s Hi Guys, To add more information about HMS Sheffield, there is a rumor that the RN is offering this vessel to Chilean Navy. Due to the Chilean government just stopped the native frigate building, so the Navy need as soon as possible a replacement for our old County destroyers. The Royal Navy is offering a batch of ships, starting with the Sheffield. The same rumor is talking about include in that offer one Type 23 (not credible from my point of view), the ship (from second hand) would be deliver in 2004-5 (??), Does anybody have any news about it? The T22 batch 3 has space to receive a Mayor Staff, but the T23 not. So due to the Irak crisis, the RN just sold the Sheffield right now. Thanks in advance for any help to complete these doubts and rumors. Roberto Paredes Sitio No Oficial del Ejército y Armada de Chile http://www.geocities.com/licanwin/homeffaa.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: NAVYDAZE Subject: Re: Wood Deck NJ - color I think I would have to disagree with you on the wood being gray all the time - I can remember several ships I have been aboard (ie: USS HELENA & USS OKLAHOMA CITY where the decks were indeed light tan/brown - I would say perhaps there is a gray tint to them. Any teak will age out to gray - but only if it is not cared for - I surmise that the above ships were well cared for by their loving and wonderful deck departments, the back bone of the fleet. Mike Donegan - ex 3rd Division on the "Hawk" Navydaze ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Daniel Taylor" Subject: Re Type 22 Frigate Hi In Vol 1997, Andy Airlie asked about the WEM Type 22. I built HMS Brave for one of her former First Lieutenants and would admit to being very pleased with the kit. (Is admit the right word? It's 2am and English isn't as easy as it was during the day). For reference I could only get hold of some smallish plans, but the officer 1 in question provided a couple of lovely large photographs of the ship whilst in commission. It showed, as I suspected, that it is an excellent rendition. The ship prved easy to build. It is a mix of resin and etched brass and is supplied with transfers (decals) and a number of pages of instructions. The hull and main superstructure is provided as a single piece. The version I got was waterline and the bottom was pre finished by WEM. To be honest, the base was not absolutely flat, but nothing that couldn't be fixed with the minimum of effort. There are a myriad of parts and in most cases they need a slight clean up and a dab of cyano. I really like WEM's doors as they remove so much work from the scratch built (monotonous) ones I have done in the past. The only parts I felt the need to replace were the masts, where a length of thin brass rod seemed better than the resin alternative. Much stronger when it comes to clumsey handling anyway. It comes with a Lynx and three ship's boats Only a slight comment on the instructions - they are, in places, a little difficult to follow. Those for the Brave are based around a Type 22 Batch 1, so on occasion you have to work quite hard to interpolate diagrams and to apply a bit of background knowledge. In conclusion, then, a great kit but not really for the beginner. None of you are that, so not a problem. It went down very well with the offiver concerned and looks very stylish - only partially a comment on my own finishing! Hope that's helpful Dan Taylor ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Edward F Grune" Subject: SMML 2K Hello SMMLies On the occasion of the 2000th issue of SMML, I went to the archives and re-read SMML #1. Greg Lee was talking to himself. My how far we've come. I'd like to take this opportunity to thank Greg for starting SMML and keeping it going through the early days. I know that Greg left the position of listmaster during some trying times. If he'e still onboard, or if someone communicates with him - please pass my good wishes to him. I'd also like to thank Shane & Lorna for their wonderful job of keeping the spirit of SMML alive and going. Keep up the good work Ed Mansfield, TX ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Wood Deck NJ - color >> Unless you want to represent the deck as just holystoned or wet after a rain, the color is gray, not teak color. Being exposed to the sun the wood surface ages. << What you describe is true only of museum ships, sitting idle with no crew to maintain the decks. If you want to portray the ship in service, the wood will not be gray. If a museum ship is what you're modelling, then go with weathered gray. Best, John Snyder White Ensign Models Home Page for WEM, http://WhiteEnsignModels.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "rt.rogers" Subject: Sails, sailing ships, watches et al Frankly I am a little surprised at the recent discussion about this topic. Especially with respect to the way in which "watches" were kept. Surprised because I would have thought that anyone using this site would have read at least one of the great sea-faring authors. For those who haven't, may I reccomend, as a starter, the following - All of whom describe life under sail in such a manner as to make you believe you were keeping watch yourself! The fictional authors are:- C.S Forrester, Nicholas Monsarrat and, more recently, Alexander Kent.. For more truly historical research may I recommend:- 1. N.A.M. Rodger's "A Naval History of Britain" (Part I, Part II still to be published) 2. Dean King's "Every Man Will Do His Duty" (1st hand accounts from the age of Nelson) And, just to prove I'm not UK biased!! 3. Stephen Howarths "From Sea to Shining Sea" (A history of the USN) I look forward to comments! Happy sailings Ransford (Taff) Rogers ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Math Mathiasen" Subject: Did You Ever Wonder Ever wonder where the word SHIT comes from? Well, here it is: Certain types of manure used to be transported (as everything was years ago) by ship. In dry form it weighed a lot less than when wet, but once water (at sea) hit it, it not only became heavier, but the process of fermentation began again, of which a byproduct is methane gas. As the stuff was stored below decks in bundles you can see what could (and did) happen. Methane began to build up below decks and the first time someone came below at night with a lantern, BOOOOM! Several ships were destroyed in this manner before it was discovered what was happening. After that, the bundles of manure were always stamped with the term "S.H.I.T" on them which meant to the sailors to "Ship High In Transit." In other words, high enough off the lower decks so that any water that came into the hold would not touch this volatile cargo and start the production of methane. Bet you didn't know the history of that word. Neither did I. I always thought it was a golf term. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Chris Drage" Subject: HMS Poppy et al HI all Corvetters, Just been speaking with John Beardmore ex-navigation officer of HMS Poppy. He informs me that the foc'sle extension was completed in 1943 and it went to abaft the pompom platform as the drawings show. The port side had the 'standard' dinghy just aft of which (adjacent to the funnel) was the port (fwd) Oerlikon. It had a splinter shield like the others. Just aft of this were the two (stacked) carley floats then came the edge of the foc'sle and two throwers were located below on the quarter deck, just forward of the aft, port zareba. John also has some new material showing the 'Popeye' gunshield art work. I haven't seen this yet. He did inform me that at an earlier point in the war Poppy had: EG 24 ......painted on her funnel much in the same design as Bluebell. He says that this was painted out at some point but can't remember when. Now for all you UK Corvetters: TUNE INTO C4 ON SATURDAY NOV 9TH 19:00HRS TO SEE "CONDUCT UNBECOMING" This features HMS Poppy at some point and an actor plays the role of John himself. John tells me that there are some shots of Poppy. Get those VCRs working guys! Just want to express my thanks to Shorna and Lane for all the hard work in compiling the ever-worderful SMML. Over 2000 issues! Wow! We all raise a glass to you two! Cheers! PS...is the rumour true that the real success in producing SMML every day so consistently is due to a hard-working, dedicated Kiwi you have imprisoned there? ......ducking..... Regards Chris ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Friedrich Kappes Subject: Re: Norman Friedmand's new book - U.S. Amphibious Ships and Craft Hi John! Did you buy the book? I have 2 questions on US landing craft... http://picpage7.tripod.com/lcu1600.html and http://picpage7.tripod.com/lcm.html Friedrich The FriedrichFiles http://www.geocities.com/friedkappes/flagship.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Don Macdonald" Subject: NJ deck color /question on dreadknoughs Hey this is your old Rustbucket ;-), On the color of the NJ decks I have to agree on what the color of the decks are, Reason is I had been on board the BB-63 one time when IT was up in Bremertion for puplic tour and the NJ was right next to it. I look over on the deck of the NJ from the Moe and saw the decks were a gray and dark color of some kind even the Moe's deck was just about the same but not as gray it did even surprise me but I do know weather and salt water will do some color changes, WHen I did my wisky I did it as a or tryed to do it as a weathered deck, OK I hope I am able to help, Now can some one help me With a dreadknough question? and I May even have that spelled worng? OK what is the major difference between the battle ship and the Dreadnough, Both have small arrms and big turrets, one more when did the change O cure to change the classes of battle wagons or is just the US that call them The Battle ship? This is one thing I have never known what the difference is and why? Can any body help me with this one? For I was watching the History channel and our ships were called battle ships and the British was calling them the Dreadknough? Thank you Don In Portland Oregon The Portland Rustbucket ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: paulship37 Subject: Interesting item on eBay I saw this item for sale at eBay Essex Aircraft Carriers by Andrew Faltum http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1578844826 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: Robert and Rose Brown Subject: Small parts Hi John: This is what I do to get nice straight cuts: Put the part in the cutter, press down the blade (or saw) and make a small cut, not all the way through. Rotate the tube 90 degress and do the same, then rotate another 90 degrees, etc etc. Keep the piece firmly against the stop each time. Eventually your last cut will go easily all the way through and you will have a nice 90 degree cut angle. Hope this helps Rob ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: Robert and Rose Brown Subject: Where to get 1/600 Airfix HMS Amazon? Hi Micheal: Nice job on your HMS Ambuscade. I have a few Amazon's still in the original shrinkwrap, along with some Narviks, Rommels, and Leanders. Contact me offlist and I'll get you the details. r2brown@canada.com Cheers Rob ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: CapnAgee Subject: Re: SMML VOL 2000 Wow! 2000 issues and I understand you haven't started taking Prozac yet. I have enjoyed your work and admire anyone who can put up with all the problems of running a website. As a retired Air Force (American) Public Affairs type with many, many issues of base newspapers behind me (as editor), take the praise (isn't that the British spelling?) from everyone but remember to use these words "... send money!" Congrats and remember, it's 80 degrees in Phoenix today. Ray Agee aka CapnAgee ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: "D.Przezdziecki" Subject: Re: Small parts John, I use two very simple jigs: 1- a square (about 5 by 5 cm) piece of plastic card 1,5 mm thick, drill a hole of the diameter of the plastic rod you want to cut in the middle of the square making sure that it is 90 degrees angle to the plane of the card. Now if you support your mitre blade on the card and if you turn the rod round while cutting you should have nice 90 degrees cut. Just remember to add the thickness of the blade to the required length of the rod, 2- again a square of plastic card this time about 3 by 3 cm and as thick as the height of the depth charge. Drill hole in the middle, again making sure that it is 90 degrees to the plane. Fit should be relatively tight but not so tight that you can't remove the part afterwards. Place a sheet of sand paper on a flat surface (I have it glued to a piece of plywood) and, without applying to much pressure, sand both ends of the rod. If your hole was trurly perpendicular to the plane of the jig you will have two 90 degrees ends. Regards D.P ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: "D.Przezdziecki" Subject: SMML 2000 issue!!!! Well, well, well doesn't time fly??? Happy 2000 issue Lorna and Shane and many happy returns!!! Best wishes Darius Przezdziecki ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume