Subject: SMML VOL 2003 Date: Thu, 07 Nov 2002 00:29:20 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Resin Kits 2: Missing Ship and lathe 3: Re: Deck Color 4: Re: Swastika and EU legislation 5: Re: Yamato models 6: Teak Decks 7: Yamato Models 8: Chilean navy 9: Re: The absolute word on wood deck color ;-) 10: Trust eyewitnesses? 11: Re: Wood deck colors 12: APB On HMS Espiegle 13: Re: Union ironclad colors 14: Coast Guard's need for speed benefits local boat builders 15: Re: SMML V2K and counting 16: this may sound like a stupid question 17: 1/250 Yamato kit -- and a thank you 18: Hasegawa Hikawamaru 19: HMCS Kootenay 20: SMML V2K ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Edward F Grune Subject: Re: Resin Kits Roger wrote in SMML 2K+1 ... >> In the past I have always made plastic kits(apart from a brief foray into Billing territory). I now have a cast resin kit and I dont want to ruin it by using the wrong paint. Should I use oil or water based paints or will this have no effect on matters. << One of the benefits of cast resin models is that they take a variety of paints, enamel or acrylic. You may paint your model with the paint that you are most comfortable with. You do not have to go out and purchase/learn a new system. There are some additional points that you must address. The resin parts must be well cleaned to remove traces of mold release or RTV residue that may prevent the paint from adhering to the surface. I have found that a good brushing with an old toothbrush and some dish detergent work well. Follow with a good rinse and an air dry. If I'm going to be painting in acrylics I may prime with a light gray or white flat primer. I have used Krylon Gray Primer out of the spray can or a well-thinned coat of Testors MM Flat White for these applications. It has worked well for me. Hope this helps. If you have more questions - ask away. Ed Mansfield, TX ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "John Anderson" Subject: Missing Ship and lathe >> is there any way you can post photographs of the model? Given the small potential market for a model like this about 1000 SMML readers might be of some help in finding/ identifying it...... << Send me some Pictures of the ship and the lathe and I will post them at our clubhouse and nail the hide of the offending thief to the front door and send it to you, I hope it has not made its way over here but if so I will keep a range finder looking John Anderson Power Squadron Officer San Francisco Model Yacht Club Sub Comm. # 2160 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "john fiebke" Subject: Re: Deck Color Two years ago I took a two hour trip from Richmond VA to Norfolk specifically to look at the decks of the Wisconsin because I couldn't figure out what color to paint the decks of a battleship. The deck was not grey..and she is a museum/reserve ship. The deck was dry and a very light tan color. The closer you got, the darker it appeared to be, but it was a lot lighter than I had imagined (not a dark honey colored tan). I also noticed at the navy base that the black boot toppings on real ships are not all that straight...so all my models are innacurate anyway. You can't win. I've heard that colors are relative from person to person....maybe some eyes are better able to pick up tans than other eyes...just like the film discussion that took place recently. John Fiebke ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Erwin Van Deynze Subject: Re: Swastika and EU legislation Hi! As far as I know, there is no ban in the EU on the Swastika. However, certain countries (Germany I'm sure, don't know for the others) ban the swastika on toys, and because models are still looked upon as toys... Wienne ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Aragiannis Evangelos" Subject: Re: Yamato models HI, check out this site: http://www.watakan.com/yamato_freek/scale.html If you are able to view Japanese fonts it would be better. cheers, E.A ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Kelvin Mok Subject: Teak Decks There had been much discussion about the colour of teak decks. I visited the North Carolina undergoing restoration last year and the weathered teak deck was greyish with a bluish tint. Where the teak had been sanded the colour was teak tan. But what is the reason behind having teak deck liners in the first place? Smaller ships do quite well with ordinary armoured decks and presumably BBs have much thicker armoured decks. Why then the necessity to lay teak planks over the deck armour in BB? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Robert Hernandez" Subject: Yamato Models >> Can any one assist with a review of the Doyusha 1/250 kit of the Yamato. I hav seen one one here for A$160 and I hav always wanted a big Yamato. Is it a rebadged Arii? Any help/comment appreciated. I have run through a Google search over the last few days but am currently going cross eyed with little or no joy. Regards & congrats on reaching 2000. Keep it going! << Denis I have never seen any reviews of this kit. I have examined the model and it is rough (thick plastic) and not very accurate. It is a very old mold. The ARII is a much newer, better and more accurate kit being an old Otaki kit in 1/250 scale. I would locate the ARII kit if I were you. The Nichimo kit in 1/200 scale is also a good choice but it is a pricier kit. Good luck! Robert ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: chris rogers Subject: Chilean navy the deck colours of the lattore clas are same as RN as where the weatherworks they didn't change them only norfolk and antrim got modified the plans you seek are in the hands of a of a bloke called wilf you know who I mean Mike chris oz ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: ELLshipmodeler Subject: Re: The absolute word on wood deck color ;-) I have asked some "experts" on the subject and here are the replies. My bottom line is - at the bottom. >> From Dana Wegner, Curator of Models for the US Navy: The teak decks were tan color when they were fresh, but they oxidized to a gray color. When they were holy-stoned or heavily washed they returned to the fresh color and re-oxidized. Up until WWII the U.S. Navy left the decks natural color (either tan or gray, depending on the age and condition) but during the war they camouflaged the decks with, I think, ordinary paint and swabbed them down. As far as a difference in color between wet or dry, I don't know. << The following four comments are from USNA classmates who stayed in the Navy: 1. It all depends on how well one takes care of Teak Decks. Left alone they will turn a light grey. Maintained they look like fresh teak. I am on the Board of the Constellation (Sloop of War - 1854) in Baltimore and our teak decks look a dirty brown due to the high traffic and not enough people to maintain. 2. After a seemingly endless summer of holystoning the fantail of USS New Jersey in 1954, I thought I'd never forget the look of those decks. I remember the decks as a light greyish brown color. Jersey in 1954 had just returned from WestPac, and duty conducting naval bombardment in Korea, and the sailors said that the holystoning had not taken place regularly when they were on station, shooting. 3. My memory from a '54 cruise on the USS Misery, with many a Friday AM holystoning, and visits to New Jersey and Missouri when they were in Long Beach in the '80's was that wood was quite light tan when wet and being stoned. When dry they became a gray-tan (but always more tan than gray). 4. Our son Charlie was on the Missouri in 90-92 during when they replaced some of the teak deck while in a yard period in Long Beach. I am looking at a 1' x 2" piece of that deck right now and would describe it as a light yellow brown (dry) turning a toned brown when wet. (Note: This wood has been kept inside away from the elements) So this conclusively make the bottom line to the question of wood deck color - - - You take your choice and represent the ship as you wish, - but make it realistic. Gene Larson Alexandria, Virginia Member, NRG ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Doug Wilde Subject: Trust eyewitnesses? I like eyewitness accounts and recollections but always will trust the photographs, especially after recent experience. While reading the proceedings from a Board of Investigation I came across the testimony of the Industrial Manager. As part of that testimony about a vibrating mast he said the mast had six legs. When shown a photograph of the mast he said "I would like to amend my testimony to say the mast has five legs..." (which was correct). His office was responsible for installing the extra legs that brought the total up to five. He saw the ship every day because it returned to port every day. The testimony was being taking aboard that same ship, pretty much under that mast. Add another 60 years and how accurate are their recollections? I'll still interview them, for their story must be preserved, BUT I still want a picture. Doug Wilde ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: "Arthur Taylor" Subject: Re: Wood deck colors In SMML 2002, Bill & Kara Michaels advocate the use of Pollyscale "Concrete" railroad acrylics to represent the color of a weathered wooden deck. Each to his own; but IMHO I think this would be too gray to represent the extremely light color of a well kept deck, particularly considering the lightening effect that many apply to their models (railroad or ship) to get the effect of atmospheric perspective. Floquil/Polly used to have a line called Flostain, lacquer-based. Particularly useful for weathered wood was a color called Driftwood. Depending on how much the pigment was stirred, you could apply a range of intensities from almost colorless to full (very light silver gray). This line has been phased out, alas. But you might get the same effect from using their existing Floquil lacquer (e.g. Concrete) diluted with their Diosol thinner or plain lacquer thinner. Again try it at first almost colorless, and then reinforce to taste. Another technique is to use a substance called Weatherit. This is another model railroad product, a liquid which like the ones previously mentioned, can provide a delicate grayed wood. My experience with all of the above has been with basswood. Brian Taylor ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Victor M. Baca" Subject: APB On HMS Espiegle >> Last week a friend of mine who was away undertaking research in Scotland, returned to find that his outside workshop had been broken into. His lathe had been taken and worst of all his working 1/48 scale model of HMS Espiegle (J 216) an Algerine Class Fleet Minesweeper. << Hi John: We go to press on 30 November and, if the thieves are not apprehended by then, I will gladly print photos and a graphic 'watch for' in the Winter 2002 issue of Model Ship Journal, showing the HMS Espiegle model. As it stands now, if you can get pictures to me by 25 November at the latest, we will run a full page showing the model and local police contact information for the jurisdiction. Contact me offlist and we'll do anything we can to assist. Best Regards, Victor Baca Editor & Publisher MODEL SHIP JOURNAL ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Ken Goldman" Subject: Re: Union ironclad colors I have ben reading THE MONITOR CHRONICLES, mostly a collection of letters written by one of her crew, George S. Geer. In his letter dated 24 August 1862, he states: "We have made some alterations in the Color of this Vessel. We have painted her a very light Lead Color." You are stuck using your own judgment as to the shade of gray that would indicate. Based on numerous complaints about the heat below deck in his earlier letters, that was likely the prime reason for the change from standard black. Ken Goldman THE WALRUS AND THE CARPENTER unique wood sculpture and fine scale models www.walruscarpenter.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: John Kutina Subject: Coast Guard's need for speed benefits local boat builders http://seattlepi.nwsource.com/local/94245_boats05.shtml ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: SMML V2K and counting I want to add my voice to every one thanking Shane and Lorna for a totally great job. This has to be the best mail list - hands down - on the net. And to all my fellow participants, the level of friendship, cooperation and community spirit is truly something to behold. Lets keep it up for the next 2000 issues!!! Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "Andrew Jones" Subject: this may sound like a stupid question But im thinking of scratch building & im working off just a verbal description of something Now this is where it probably sounds silly for you professionals out there... now I know the dimensions of something & they are all in feet or metres ( then cut it down to cm etc), now im hoping to work it into 1/72 scale/25mm ... now If I just divide the real life length by 72 that should give me the actual model size right??? Im not used to the scale scratchbuilding style of work... so I just wanted to double check thanks Andrew ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: "Don Macdonald" Subject: 1/250 Yamato kit -- and a thank you Hello from Portland First off I want to say thanks for the information on difference on the Battle ships and dredknoughts it helps OK on the 1/250 Yamato kit