Subject: SMML VOL 2010 Date: Wed, 13 Nov 2002 01:28:51 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re Stripping Paint 2: Re: stripping paint 3: Airfix kit of RN frigate LEANDER 4: Re: 1/700 Kursk 5: Re: B & W Potemkin 6: Paint scheme on Iowa Dec 44 7: Re: Various 8: Re: Arunta 9: Interesting items on eBay 10: Stripping. . . 11: Teak Decks... 12: Re: B & W Potemkin 13: Can anyone help! 14: Re: Site Update: Building a minaiture sailing warship 15: Re: Subject: Potemkin "Black" and "White" Color Mix 16: Re: Potemkin "Black" and "White" Color Mix 17: Re: black and white color mix 18: Re: Arunta -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: Re: Lack of Plastic 1/700 Modern Airwing and Warships ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "dengar" Subject: Re Stripping Paint Hi Roy, I have used "Oven Cleaner" Very successfully, the local brand is Mr Muscle,which is a non caustic formulation. Hope this helps Cheers Gary ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Andrew Jones" Subject: Re: stripping paint Hey there I have used 2 types of Oven cleaner....of course I would suggest you dig out of your spares a test sample, cuz I think some would eat the plastic away..in Oz Mr Muscle is supposed to be good, but I find that you really have to rub hard, yet there is another, the brand escapes me that cleans a bit faster... im not sure what happened..but I think its best to use a "fresh can" not one that has been sitting in the shed for a while, as I tried it use an old can on some Tamiya paint & it left a yellow tinge everywhere regards Andrew ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Mike Potter Subject: Airfix kit of RN frigate LEANDER I'm considering building the Airfix 1/600 kit of the RN frigate LEANDER. I see WE's PE sets for this kit. I'd like to do it as a modernized frigate of this class, with either Exocet missiles or with Ikara installed forward. Does anyone know whether Airfix updated this kit to include Exocet missile launchers, the Ikara system, a Lynx helo, triple 12.75-inch torpedo launchers, and additional Sea Cat launchers? Or has anyone a source for these weapons in 1/600 scale? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Thomas Drysdale Subject: Re: 1/700 Kursk The Tamiya Kursk only comes as a waterline model. The hull is only made of five parts but it does give the option of eight different periscope/radars. It has a really neat set of decals for portraying either the Kusrk, Omsk, or Tomsk. There is the usual waterline big slab of metal to keep it down. I am no expert but it compared well to photographs I found and it is very nicely cast. The only changes I made were to remove the solid protection screen at the top of the sail and replace it with thin, clear plastic. The model really makes you appreciate the size of the beast when it sits beside other 1/700 models. A nice weekend project. Cheers, Tom Drysdale ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "David and Alison Muir" Subject: Re: B & W Potemkin An old painter's trick, taught to me by the very talented guy who did the rendered perspectives for my architectural practice: intermix a small amount of each colour used on the picture...it kills the starkness and adds interest to any "flat" areas. Also works on models: just add a minute quantity of the colours to the base. So...black gets a touch of white, a touch of deck colour, a touch of sea green or blue...white gets a touch of black etc etc. The amounts should be small, almost indistinguishable once dry. Can also be done over the base colour using washes or, believe it or not, coloured pencils. His modelling techniqe was to intermix the base then shade using pencils and/or pastel powder building it up in tiny steps like a watercolour. David M Sydney, Oz ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: David Gatt Subject: Paint scheme on Iowa Dec 44 G'day all, Work on my Dec 1944 Iowa is progressing however I have 1 concern at present. It's the camo on the ship. In particular I can't work out if the aft port section of the superstructure was painted dark blue or light grey. My main source, Iowa Clas BB by Sumrall shows her paint scheme Measure 32 1B on page 174. If you look at the aft structure on the port side it simply has a blue stripe going up towards the stern. Where on the starboard side it is all dark blue. My problem is that on pg142 it shows Iowa entering a dry dock showing the port aft quarter and it is very dark looking. So if the photo is dated correctly the illustration is incorrect. I'm at a stand still as I can't continue untill I resolve this. On my web page in gallery One I have pics showing how she is painted at present (check out the last few pictures on the page) Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks david gatt http://homepage.mac.com/davidgatt/modelsite/Menu10.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Edd Pflum Subject: Re: Various Subject: Stripping paint Roy wrote: >> I am in need of some information, what is the best way to stip the paint off of a plastic model. It is an enamel paint and I would, if at all possible not weaken the plastic. << Polly-S has a product called "Easy-Lift-Off" that does the job. Subject: Teak Decks Kevin wrote: >> [SNIP]< 1862 - 1945 http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1582064280 Book:BUILDING & DETAILING SCALE MODEL SHIPS http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1579301658 rare 1971 HC OCEANOGRAPHIC SHIPS Fore & Aft http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1579402189 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Frank Allen Subject: Stripping. . . . . .paint, that is- Try Floquil/Polly S/Testors (I can't recall how they package it now) "Easy Lift Off". "ELO" works very well and can be used to remove anything from mere decals down to multiple layers of paint and primer, and I should know...I've stripped many a "HOOD" model with it. Works better than oven cleaner (at least I think so). A tad expensive, but a can will last you a long time. Frank (Who curses the day Testors took over Floquil.) http://hmshood.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Richard Sweeney Subject: Teak Decks... Interesting theory on the Teak decks, Except Battleships were by far NOT the only ships with teak decks, I think You'll find most ships above destroyers had teak decking, and as trivial as it may seem at times. I believe that their being less slippery than Painted Steel was a major reason for their retention, while other forms of low slip/no slip decking were searched for. Also realise many of the smaller craft, subchases and the like were built in small yards where wood working skills far surpassed their skills with Steel. My 2 Cents worth. Rich Sweeney ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Pieter Cornelissen Subject: Re: B & W Potemkin >> Unfortunately, there are not too many color photos of warships painted black. Lets say I start with Tamiya's XF-1 Flat Black. What would be a good mixing color (XF-2 Flat White??) and at what mixture? Would a very little gloss help appearances? << Potemkin's color scheme is quite close to the traditional scheme for transatlantic liners. In order to get photo's and other reference stuff the debrisfield is a good starting point. Cheers, Pieter Cornelissen ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Lawman555 Subject: Can anyone help! Okay SMMLies, this is not actually related to a model, as such, but does anyone know of a wooden ship repair facality somewhere in the NE United States that is trustworthy and reasonable? I have found the remainder of a WWII Submarine Chaser and would be interested in any opinions/etc/advise that any of you might have for a restoration project. Thanks ahead of time. Jim Myers ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: Kerry Jang Subject: Re: Site Update: Building a minaiture sailing warship Hi Eveyrone, My latest progress on a 1:192 model of L'Ambitiuex is on-line. You can access it directly at: http://www.nutsnbits.com/nutsnbits_00002a.htm I really appreciate the list's comments and advice. The model is progressing well thanks to everyone's input and help as I work on it. The rest of Daniel Munoz's nutsnbits site full of pretty inspirational model building. Cheers, Kerry ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: GKingzett Subject: Re: Subject: Potemkin "Black" and "White" Color Mix I am a firm believer that all ship colors need to be scaled down to appear proper at scale viewing distances. I am still learning about it, and working out the details, but here is what I know so far. Black and white both need to be greyed to achieve the proper appearance. Black should be greyed with white; As a rule of thumb, I use the square root of the scale, 1:350 needs about 19% white in the black, 1:700 needs about 27% white in the black. On the other hand, white is so much less powerful than black, it needs only a small trace of black to achieve the toning down. Go very easy with the black, you can always add more. In both these examples these colors will look very dead. You can add a few drops of a deep yellow to warm them up, to give the impression of sunlight, or add a few drops of deep blue to give a crisp cool feeling to them. The greying down of the other colors is more complex. I bought a couple of artists books which show the color wheel. There is a section in each of them which shows what colors to mix to produce a gray. They also show that you don't have to do much, a very light touch of the correct supplement or complement is all that is needed to produce the effect we are seeking. I would welcome other people's comments on this topic. I know there are several artists on this list, we could all benefit from their insights. Gary ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "Harold Stockton" Subject: Re: Potemkin "Black" and "White" Color Mix Trains, Planes and Armored modelers have known for years about "scaling" the paint that they used to finish their modeling subjects. One always strives to start with the pure paint match that is required for the scheme one has chosen, but it is then necessary to "cut" the paint down for the scale effect of distance. Fine artists depict distance in their paintings with colors taking on more and more gray as an illusion to give depth and perspective. So too must a scale modeler. Because of the smaller scales in ship modeling in 1/600 or 1/700, it would not be unheard of to cut a pure black by as much as 10% to 15% with pure white that would end up with a very dark gray. But conversely, a pure white would only need to be adjusted by as little as 1% to 2% with pure black to take the edge off of it for a true scale effect. Yellows would be cut with white to soften their harshness. And when weathering is added to a model so adjusted for scale color effect, the resulting model will take on that very realistic finish so sought after. Harold Stockton IPMS 1274 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: Procladius Subject: Re: black and white color mix I also think straight black and white are too stark, especially on 1/700 ships. I use acrylics, and for white I usually substitute a Pollyscale German aircraft color, RLM 63 Lt. Gray. For black, I like to use another Pollyscale color, Grimy Black, or a 50 - 50 mix of Grimy Black and Black. Charles Watson ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "Alan Scheckenbach" Subject: Re: Arunta Thanks Bert and Shane, I've passed the information on and we'll chase down the books. Alan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: Lack of Plastic 1/700 Modern Airwing and Warships >> However a lot of other airwings are not yet available. For example, and just to mention a few, and for sure the most wanted: LHA Saipan and LHD Wasp Class: (AV-8B Harrier II, OV-22, CH-46E Sea Knight, CH-53E Sea Stallion, AH-1W SuperCobra (1), UH-1N Twin Huey and. Single engine too!) RN Illustrious : Sea Harrier FA2, Harrier GR-7, Sea King ASW Mk5/6, SeaKing AEW-2 RN Ocean, Albion and Fearless : AH-64 Apache, Sea King Commando HC-4, CH-47 Chinook (1), EH-01 Merlin, Gazelle, Lynx/Super Lynx Mk5 (all versions, Navy, Army wheel, Army skid) << Hi Ayala (and others), Check the WEM Airstrike series, and you'll find most of those aircraft already available. Best, John Snyder White Ensign Models Home Page for WEM, http://WhiteEnsignModels.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume