Subject: SMML VOL 2013 Date: Thu, 14 Nov 2002 13:28:11 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Matchstick ship models 2: On the subject of teak 3: Re: Teak 4: WW II Sub Chaser 5: Re: Lafayette class sub 6: Re: USS Texas, BB35 7: Re: USCG White 8: USS Texas 9: Re: Teak 10: Re: USS Texas, BB35 11: Re: USS Texas 12: Re: Revelle Lafayette Class 13: Potemkin Black and White 14: KIT REVIEW 15: Re: 1;1 subchaser 16: Found on Ebay 17: Re: Can anyone help! 18: Re: USGC White 19: Re: USCG White ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Information 1: 2003 IPMS Convention T-shirts ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: JFR1945 Subject: Re: Matchstick ship models >> I am looking for information and photos on matchstick ship models. I know there is a great model at the Naval War College Museum in Newport, RI. << The American Visionary Art Museum, Baltimore MD (410-244-1900), has a very large (10ft?) matchstick passenger ship. I can't remember for sure, but I think it is of Titanic. John Reeder ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Edward F Grune" Subject: On the subject of teak Bruce D. Rauss wrote in SMML2011 >> I believe that teak is highly resistant to splintering. Much more so than oak or other hard woods. That's one of the reasons it was used in WWII USN carrier flight decks. << Teak is relatively splinter resistant, and it is also very rot-resistant due to some of its water-resistant properties, but ... IIRC, US aircraft carrier decks in WWII were covered in Douglas Fir. Ed Mansfield, TX ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: ELLshipmodeler Subject: Re: Teak There have been a lot of guesses and two cents worth regarding the use of teak/wood on decks. Why not ask an expert rather than make guesses. Here is a reply from the Curator of Models for the USN. Many of the guesses were correct. Even the curator leaves some room for expansion of the reasons. >> There were several reasons for wood decks on U.S. steel ships. The first was simply tradition. Other reasons included traction, foot comfort, wearability, and insulation from sunlight and ice. The traction aspect is easy to understand. And you can imagine the difference between standing watch on a steel deck as opposed to a wooden one. I think the chief reason was that wood was easier to keep neat than painted steel. The paint on a steel deck would wear out quickly in high-traffic areas and required constant touch-up, while a wooden deck would just wear-down in thickness. I have always been intrigued by the use of Linoleum instead of wood in some U.S. ships during the period between World War I and II. << Gene Larson Alexandria, Virginia Member, NRG ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Jim Chaconas Subject: WW II Sub Chaser To: Jim Myers Jim, as the owner of a 40' wooden sloop, built in 1939, a few questions: Where are you located? Where is the boat located? What is the condition ~ in your opinion, if for sale does current owner have recent or any 'survey' of the vessel? Do you have photos that can be e-mailed? Is it a 110' WW 1 or later cut down 106'? The ones I heve seen were cut to 106' (flat transom) w/steering gear enclosed below decks, originally powered w/ Packards for ASR duty, when released for civilian auction, engines were replaced w/ Gray Marine 671's. I'm on the East Coast, Chesapeake Bay area, and may have some answers or recommendations for you. Hope you have DEEEEEP pockets. Best, Jim Chaconas ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Ives100 Subject: Re: Lafayette class sub >> I see there is a reissue of the old Revelle Lafayette Class Polaris sub (1/200 - I think?) Anyway if I were to throw all the guts away and seal up the foldaway hull - making a full hull model - how accurate is the hull and sail to just make it a desk top model. I am sure it could be detailed somewhat. << Mike, Actually, the externals are not quite what they should be either. The two piece rudder is wrong, the upper rudder needs to be extended, the sailplanes need to be reshaped and should be flush, and a number of other items that need correction. That being said, Ken Hart did an article a few years ago on correcting the Renwal subs (which is where Revell got the molds for the Lafayette). I'll dig it out of my files, scan it and send it to you. The interior is, of course, quite wrong. I have a couple of these Renwal sub hulls, and plan to try to make both the interior and exterior more accurate....someday...when I get time..... Tom Dougherty ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: USS Texas, BB35 Hi David, TEXAS was in Measure 31A, Design 8B. Steve Wiper's book also shows her starboard side. Perhaps Floating Drydock has a sheet for Design 8B, regardless of ship? Perhaps my good friend Randy Short can be of some help here...? Best, John Snyder White Ensign Models Home Page for WEM, http://WhiteEnsignModels.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: URUDOFSKY Subject: Re: USCG White I don't think a model with the official USCG colors would look quite right, especially if it is a small model. But as far as I know the Federal Standard number for the "spar" color is 10371 and I am sure you can call them to get the white FS number. U. Rudofsky ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Don Macdonald" Subject: USS Texas I have seen a few books on her, I did see one soft copy of the Book called USS Texas. It has alot of good shots of her in color, The sample type is like the Book Called (USS lextingtion the Blue ghost). as well as one that says USS Lexingtion) but you may get the idea of what type I am talking about? But I dont remember who put out the Texas book. I pick it for a buddy of mind a couple of years ago, I have seen it one other time but that a wile back, Maybe someone else can remember what book I am talking about ?if you can fine it I am sure it will help, It has alot of good information and nice Color Pictures, I think WP press has a something like it as well, Not sure if is the same BOOK or not. Sorry I cant help any feather. Don That Portland Rustbucket in Portland ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Edd Pflum Subject: Re: Teak John Snyder wrote: >> Except that I think you'll find that U.S. carrier flight decks were Douglas fir, mostly from the Pacific Northwest. << I recall reading somewhere (Friedman?) the planked decks made damage repair easier. Cut away the twisted metal and throw some new planks on. Edd ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Russell_Lessard Subject: Re: USS Texas, BB35 David, with regard to the USS Texas (my favorite ship by the way), there was a book on the pictorial history of the Texas for sale on E-bay a couple of weeks ago. You might try searching there once more... or a general search on the net for this book. BTW: I want to keep all my ships at the same scale... 1/350. It is been very frustrating to me that no one has made that model in years. I think Viking was the last company to do so, and that model received very negative reviews. I keep hoping one of the better modeling companies will come out with a new 1/350. I would think it would sell quite well... especially now that the ship is a living museum here in Texas. Best of luck, Russ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Michael McMurtrey Subject: Re: USS Texas I'll check my references, but I don't recall seeing the view you are looking for, either. Where did you get the Samek kit? Every retailer I've checked with seems to be out of it at the moment. Texas is a particular favorite of mine. I gre up on the Gulf Coast of Texas and visited the ship annually as a child. My girlfriend from college was one of the project coordinators for the restoration. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Edd Pflum Subject: Re: Revelle Lafayette Class >> I see there is a reissue of the old Revelle Lafayette Class Polaris sub (1/200 - I think?) Anyway if I were to throw all the guts away and seal up the foldaway hull - making a full hull model - how accurate is the hull and sail to just make it a desk top model. I am sure it could be detailed somewhat. << The original Revell release was the George Washington, and the hull was not a very good representation. The casing over the missile tubes was kinda squared-off. Revell also has the Renwal molds. Renwal's SSBN had a much better hull, but without a model handy, I can't speak to the absolute accuracy. Edd ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: "Ken Hoolihan" Subject: Potemkin Black and White To tone down the starkness of black and white schemes and at the same time provide a weathered appearance I suggest you apply washes and then dry-brush highlights. For example, on the black hull sides, apply a thinned down dark grey wash with a little dark brown mixed in (in a vertically streaked fashion) and then lightly drybrush mid grey over raised details, edges etc. For white areas, the wash should be a heavily thinned light grey with just a touch of pale brown. Followup with light grey drybrushing. This approach worked for me. However, with techniques like this it is best to go carefully - less is more if you know what I mean. Ken Hoolihan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "Andrew Jones" Subject: KIT REVIEW deliphis Models resin kit 1/700 Scire/Tembien well just rcvd my order from WEM & one that I was particularly curious about was the metal resin Italian Subs Scire & Tembien When I opened the large box & the small parts inside (there is a lot of bubblewrap to protect such very few parts) well the parts..you get 2 subs, waterline with coning tower .a bit of excess flash attached the other parts, you get 3 "trees" of white metal..a small amount of flash is attached, but nothing that a knife & a file wouldn't clean up..the cargo containers are free to roam & the side panels would either need to be cleaned up or replaced as these don't sit on the hull of the sub cleanly the instruction sheet.... what a waste! the instruction sheet does not list the parts or anything...gives 1 top & side view of the Scire (I guess) as a frog man/chariot carrier & then you get 3 side views of other regular subs.. the sub kits coning tower has like a step feature on the front, yet the Scire top/side drawing does not show this & gives it a straight up & down front of the sail with with a slight extension at the bottom..the side profiles show NO style similar to the coning tower & also the kt has like a wider part where I guess on U-boats the deck gun would be near as to allow gun crews to operate on the decks when the gun needs to be turned around..the 3 side profiles have colour tabs so you can arrange the colour to match & the chariot carror only is a light grey with no colour markings so I did a little digging on the web & came across a web site of someone who did a large scale diorama of the Scire being loaded with the chariot cargo..that kit has the step coning tower & the wide circular part in front of the coning tower & the colour appears to be a light brown with dark brown splotches, just saw on the web site that is listed for Delphis & it shows the sub in what appears to be overall grey style colour my comments... though have not built it yet... the kit would need some serious research on the subs in question to make sure of the colour scheme, & the arrangements of the deck guns etc Good side: it's the only that I can see of these subs in 1/700 & is not covered in excess flash & the small parts seem pretty strong as 1 or 2 parts were bent when I opened the box bad side: instruction sheet...if you cant put in a decent instruction sheet, why bother putting one in at all...so best to ask around to see if anyone has any good research on this before attempting..one day will like to see the other range to see if the instruction sheets are a little better now remember this is only my comments....probably best if you can see this kit for real before probably buying it yourself.. will try to scan the sheet & the kit in for a proper SMML kit review sometime later regards Andrew Oz ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: 1;1 subchaser >> I have found the remainder of a WWII Submarine Chaser and would be interested in any opinions/etc/advise that any of you might have for a restoration project. << You might also want to talk to the folks at Mystic Sea Port. While probably out of their area of interest, they might be able to make some suggestions. Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Found on Ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1787293395 Check this one out, It's a Tom's Modelworks 1/350 Essex partial kit. Kit parts include the complete hull, flight deck and hanger side panels ONLY! There is no brass, no planes and no small parts. However since it is currently sitting at $23 with 4 days to go- - - And No it's not mine :-) Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: ALROSS2 Subject: Re: Can anyone help! >> I have found the remainder of a WWII Submarine Chaser and would be interested in any opinions/etc/advise that any of you might have for a restoration project. << There are still a lot of yards here in Maine that build/restore wooden boats. Get a copy of "WoodenBoat" magazine and check out the ads in the back. You might also want to contact Jon Johanson, the editor of "Maine Coastal News". Jon knows practically every builder in the state. His email is:igmatats@aol.com; phone is: (207) 223-8846 Al Ross ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: "Kathy/Pirie Sublett" Subject: Re: USGC White You will get better, more professional answers, but the USCG cutters I see almost everyday here look very, very white. They certainly don't seem to have any yellow in the mix. I would start with one of the colder whites from your favorite brand. Pirie Sublett - San Diego ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: Jim Chaconas Subject: Re: USCG White John S. is not going to like this, but, I recommend Floquil "Reefer White" avail. in acryl as: Polly Scale, they're railroad colours. Best, Jim ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Information ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: SHIPMDLR Subject: 2003 IPMS Convention T-shirts We have just accepted shipment of our first batch of 2003 IPMS/USA Convention T-shirts! So if you wish to be the height of fashion at the Nationals next year or wish to look like you were, feel free to check out the shirts on our web site. You can purchase them on-line using your credit card (via Pay Pal). They are very colorful and look coooool! The first fifty shirts will be sold at a special LOW price. Once they're gone, the price goes up! Just click on the T-Shirts icon and follow the directions. Prices include shipping. Nationals 2003 Home Page: http://ipmsmetrookc.org/Nats_2003/index.html Rusty White # 20181 Chairman 2003 IPMS/USA National Convention http://www.ipmsmetrookc.org OKC In 2003! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume