Subject: SMML VOL 2097 Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2003 15:34:34 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Potemkin propellers 2: Nichrome 3: HMS Abercrombie 4: QE2 Cockroaches 5: Re: Holland Project 6: Re: Nichrome rigging 7: Re: Sydney 8: The Holland Project Followup 9: UP comming books DDG 10: Re: Sydney Hobby shops 11: 1930's LEANDER / Modified LEANDER 12: Re: Cockroaches on QE2 13: Re: Resin kits... best glue etc. to use? 14: Nichrome Wire (Thanks to Dr. Jang) 15: Airfix HMS Daring 16: nichrome wire 17: Re: Norfolk 250N Stain 18: Equipment Guides -SSN640 19: 2,400 year old ship found in Black Sea 20: Re: propellers for Potemkin 21: Sydney -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: New 1:700 Warship Kits 2: Re-Stock at WEM ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: " Kjetil Lindahl" Subject: Potemkin propellers The Potemkin had triple expansion engines. She probably had slow turning low pitch large diameter propellers, not high speed turbine propellers. The large 4-blade propellers are badly cast in my kit too, but maybe not so wrong in general shape. Kjetil Lindahl ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: ZMzimmerman Subject: Nichrome Nichrome wire sounds like great rigging material, so where do you get it? Other than your doctors office. Thanks, Michael Zimmerman ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: ZMzimmerman Subject: HMS Abercrombie Does anyone know the colors worn by the monitor HMS Abercrombie in 1944? Thanks, Michael Zimmerman ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Rod Dauteuil" Subject: QE2 Cockroaches OK, who let the cockroaches on board in the midst of this thread????? Rod ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: Holland Project >> I sure could use your help. I been looking at that site all morning and cannot find where to request a CD. Can you help me? I built the model of PLUNGER, a Holland sub, that is on display at the Sub Museum at Grotton. << Yes I looked too and was not sure how to get a CD. I would also like to obtain one. It is am impressive site. Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: Bradford Chaucer Subject: Re: Nichrome rigging >> The nice thing about nichrome wire is that it can be pulled straight and it is very strong, even in the very finest guages. << How do you secure it?? Do you merely anchor it in a drop of glue or do you go for some sort of mechanical security first?? Also in that gauge does it have any stiffness or is it limp like thread? In your view, is there any advantage to nichrome (or I presume stainless steel) wire in that gauge over fine monofilament or even stretched sprue?? The two possible factors that come to mind to me are greater strength in smaller gauges and environmental stability over materials that might sag with humidity. Are there other advantages?? Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Rees, Graham" Subject: Re: Sydney The model shop in Parramatta meant by Andrew is probably Berg's Hobbies 1/181 Church St, Parramatta (St John's Square) The book shop in Parramatta meant by Alan is Wheels Bookshop 333 Church St Parramatta (near the river). Graham Rees ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Richa5011 Subject: The Holland Project Followup Bob Santos wrote: >> I sure could use your help. I been looking at that site all morning and cannot find where to request a CD. Can you help me? << As it happens, the order link I used back in November is not there anymore (that's what I get for not checking it before I sent the message to SMML!), but the Press Release ends with the following: "For a free copy of The Holland Project CD, contact Ed Popko by e-mail at: popko@us.ibm.com. Include your mailing address and allow three weeks for delivery." Dr. Popko is the Worldwide Market Manager for IBM's PLM group and is located in Poughkeepsie. New York. Hope this helps, Nat Richards ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Don Macdonald" Subject: UP comming books DDG Just wanted to thank you for clearing a few things up on the future books, I was thinking one of A DDG was comm I know when you or do put out one on a DDG it will be as good as the rest, I will just sit back an wate. Don Macdonald The Portland Rustbucket ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Stephen Varhegyi" Subject: Re: Sydney Hobby shops Apart from the ones already mentioned. There's Bergs at Parramatta in the mall near the station ( good selection). There's Vaggs at Miranda on the main drag opposite westfield (the owner's an old mate of mine, his wife also operates a folk art place next door for little crafty things). There's punchbowl hobbies in Chapel Rd Bankstown (mostly railway stuff but some models,paints etc.) The name of the great bookshop in Parramatta is Battlebridge. They just south of the parramatta river bridge on the western side of church street. They have a much better collection than Napoleons and are much more helpful. Also a great collection of videos. Tom's Discount hobbies has a good selection of plastic kits, but the guys there aren't very helpful. They're mostly railway heads, who don't know much or seem interested in modellers, despite the fact that we've spent 000's in there over the years. I hear that Wings n Things have opened up a shop in Dee Why, which is being staffed by Chris Wauchop, a very accomplished aircraft modeller. His work is truly awesome (a great artist with the airbrush). Wings n Things at Gladesville have some good stuff too but not so many ship kits, Tom's has more. Wings n Things have another shop in Kingsford near the roundabout, used to be called Jordal hobbies. Hobby Co has a reasonable selection of stuff but don't expect service or good advice, they're mostly just young shop assistants. It's now part of the Wesfarmers Bunnings connection, taken over from Howard Smith / BBC. They sometimes have sales. All these are worth a try but you should also consider visiting some club meetings which always have people selling stuff. They also have swap meets and auctions. The IPMS meet at Ryde City Bowling Club on the fourth Saturday of each month. APMA meet at the same club on the 2nd Saturday. Guests are welcome at IPMS but I think you have to pay an admission charge to APMA. Steve Varhegyi ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Starline / Fleetline Subject: 1930's LEANDER / Modified LEANDER Would anyone on the list have in their posession either a PLATING plan and/or DOCKING plan for this class of vessel. Please don't suggest NMM, have spoken to them. Unless there is someone on the list willing to pay them a visit for me. Please contact me on starline@netspace.net.au Thanks & all the best Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: Fkbrown90 Subject: Re: Cockroaches on QE2 Clairvoyant little {CENSORED} aren't they? My next question was going to be about how the big cruise ships handled the problem. That news flash suggests that, like bin Laden, the other cockroaches have the upper hand. Do any SMML people have any stories of cockroaches on the fancy cruise ships? Franklyn ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: EDWARD GRUNE Subject: Re: Resin kits... best glue etc. to use? Steve.Richards wrote in SMML2095 >> I am venturing into constructing a resin kit and was wondering if anyone can tell me what sort of glue to use? << No one jumped in in SMML2096 so here goes ... For assembly of a resin kit you need to use a cyanoacrylate (CA - Superglue) or an epoxy. Most styrene glues work by melting the plastic together and have no affect on resin. If you use CA - you may want to get one of the thicker brands that set slower (30 seconds?) that will give you the chance to position the parts before the glue sets. I also use some fast glue to set parts together without the wait. I use FLASH brand - because its available in my local Hobby Lobby. Others will recommend other brands such as Zap or even the kind in the small tubes from the hardware store. When you're getting the CA you may want to get some accelerator to speed up the setting time of the glue. If you're using epoxy - get the 5-minute setup kind - and mix small batches to minimize waste. Something the size of a US dime will do. I generally don't use epoxy because there is a lot of wastage because you only need a few drops on the tip of a toothpick for most assembly You didn't ask about filler putty. Use your favorite brand. They work equally well on resin. I use Bondo catalyzed putty for quick set-up jobs and also use Bondo red spot glazing putty. Both are available at an auto supply store - in the body work section. >> Also, should the model be "primed" at all prior to painting? << You should thoroughly wash the kit parts before use. That will remove most of the mold compounds. I will soak the parts in some dishwashing detergent and brush them wih an old toothbrush. Rinse well and allow to air dry (to avoid pickng up lint). I generally do prime my kits. I use Krylon brand gray or red primer. I will also use Plasticoat brand primer. I use a primer to even out the colors - since I use a red putty against a cream colored resin the differences stand out. A coat of primer evens out the color. You want to get something which will bond to the resin substrate and allow the finish paints to bond to it. More information below in the paint section. Experiment - if your finish coat bonds well with your resin - then you don't really need to prime. >> Also!.... are enamels paints ok to use or should one use acrylic? << Use whatever you are most familiar and at ease with. Both enamels and acrylics work well on resins. From personal experience I have found that with enamels I don't always need a primer coat. I can spray a well thinned color coat and once that has set I can begin laying up heavier color coats. I have also found that acrylics don't always cover well on raw resin. Even when the resin is clean it has 'fisheyed'. I have had better success applying acrylics over a primer coat. Hope this helps from "sunny" Ft Worth/Dallas Texas, where the temperature is 25F and the native Texans are worried about finding enough firewood to keep warm. Ed Mansfield, TX ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "Katz, Gene S" Subject: Nichrome Wire (Thanks to Dr. Jang) Thanks Kerry, appreciate the answers. Now to convince my "trouble and strife" as to why I need 100 feet of nichrome 80 wire. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: "Raymond Guy" Subject: Airfix HMS Daring I have just acquired the Daring on an Ebay auction. Obviously many smmlies have built this model. Any points to look-out for regarding out of scale items, poor reproductions etc. The WEM PE kits for this model will be arriving shortly.Any tips would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Ray ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: "robert patmore" Subject: nichrome wire Nichrome wire generally comes on little spools. How does one straighten it? Bob Patmore ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From: wem Subject: Re: Norfolk 250N Stain >> Does anbody have a formula to mix Norfolk 250N Flight deck stain, as used on the Hornet? I have a good assortment of WEM colourcoats, including deck blue 20 and flight deck stain 21. Would one of these be close? << Norfolk 250-N and 5-N Navy Blue were virtually identical. 250-N was a trifle more blue, so if you REALLY want to mix, you might try adding a bit of Flight Deck Stain 21 to 5-N Navy Blue. Personally, I'd use 5-N and then weather it afterwards. Best, John Snyder The Token Yank White Ensign Models Home Page for WEM, http://WhiteEnsignModels.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From: John Kutina Subject: Equipment Guides -SSN640 http://www.military.com/Resources/EQG/EQGmain?file=SSN640&cat=v&lev=2 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From: John Kutina Subject: 2,400 year old ship found in Black Sea http://www.iht.com/cgi-bin/generic.cgi?template=articleprint.tmplh&ArticleId=83685 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 20) From: "Keith Bender" Subject: Re: propellers for Potemkin Hi SMMLies, The man looking for pre war cruiser prop inf. can contact me of line, got archive drawings, KTB propmeup@att.net ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 21) From: JOHNEME Subject: Sydney My family and I are thinking about Sydney and Melbourne for a vacation this coming June or June 2004 (school vacation, don't ya know); what is available in Oz that either isn't available in the states, or is more expensive here? John Emery ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Mike Bartel Subject: New 1:700 Warship Kits The name of the 'small' British WW2 subject IHP has been planning is HMS Wild Goose, of the WW2 Black Swan class of sloops. The kit will represent the 'Mad Duck' (as she was known to her crew) in 1943 fit. More details can be found on the IHP website. The kit is due in April of 2003. Also coming is a re-run of the HMS Invincible (1921 G-3 design). The kit has been reworked to require a Tamiya Rodney/Nelson kit to complete it. Delivery is expected in May of 2003. MSRP of the Wild Goose is expected to be in the $40 range. The MSRP of the Invincible is expected to be in the $120-$130 range. Both kits are in production at our various casters now. See your dealer now to reserve. DEALERS: Reserve your quantities of each kit NOW! Mike Bartel IHP http://ihphobby.tripod.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: John Snyder Subject: Re-Stock at WEM We've received a re-stock on our 1/350 USS REUBEN JAMES (DD-245), the classic Clemson-class 4-stack destroyer lost to a U-Boat's torpedo 5 weeks before Pearl Harbor. Of course, the kit would be the basis for most of her sister ships at that period as well. Price £64.64 (about $100) for this kit which can be built waterline or full-hull. It's a typical Peter Hall design, which means that the resin parts are crisp and fit well, and a full range of white metal parts and photoetch mean that all that is needed is glue, paint, and rigging to complete it. Detailed instructions, and a full-color plan & profile showing the ship in her Measure 2 camouflage. We also received a re-stock on our Pro2001, 1/200 scale replacement turrets for the Trumpeter SOVREMENNY. These have been out of stock for a few weeks, and you'll want a set to accurize that fine kit. Price £11.02 (about $17.08) for a pair of turrets and guns, complete with cooling lines on the guns. Another batch of our 1/350 HMS JANUS (1940) arrived as well, but these were all pre-sold and have gone out. More will arrive shortly, so order now if you want to be assured one of these fine kits. Price £66.34 (about $102.80). If you haven't seen her colour profile, go to: http://www.whiteensignmodels.com/brochure/images/350janus/januscolourprofile.jpg Finally, we've had our 1/350 PT-34, 77' Elcos arrive. These are the boats that served in the Philippines in the early days of WW2 and were the boats of "They Were Expendable." They won't be ready to ship until Peter Hall can find a moment or two to finish the instructions (hopefully very soon), but we'll take orders now. This is a great addition to our "Narrow Seas" range, and a class of boat that hasn't been available before. Price £10.00 (about $15.50). Best, John Snyder The Token Yank White Ensign Models Home Page for WEM, http://WhiteEnsignModels.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume