Subject: SMML VOL 2103 Date: Fri, 24 Jan 2003 11:55:05 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Civilian aircraft catapults 2: Nichrome Wire Sizes 3: Mike Ashey's 1/350 Arizona appears in FSM 4: young modelers 5: Civilian aircraft catapults 6: KGV Decks 7: Re: Bismarck?'s/Night Diorama Hints 8: Re: Bismarck 9: Re: USS NJ 1/350 scale Tamiya cont...... 10: Re: Chapaev & Sverdlov References 11: Re: 8 mm to dvd 12: Getting Kids interested in modeling 13: Re: Bismarck 14: Re: Bismarck? 15: Bismark paint??s 16: 350 hose reel hoses ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Brooks Rowlett Subject: Re: Civilian aircraft catapults >> Any comments, SMML people? << You might want to check: http://www.hazegray.org/navhist/carriers/odd/ http://www.hazegray.org/navhist/carriers/odd/index1.htm http://www.hazegray.org/navhist/carriers/germany.htm http://www.hazegray.org/navhist/carriers/germany.htm#cat-ships Brooks A Rowlett ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Kerry L. Jang" Subject: Nichrome Wire Sizes I have suggested that for 1:700 scale, wire about 41 guage ought to do right off the spool. For 1:350, you could take a long strand of it (double the amount you need), loop it to form two strands and put one end in a lathe chuck. Through the loop at the other end, stick in a piece of dowel as a handle, and tirn on the lathe (or whatever rotary tool you have, like a Dremel) twist it together. Voila, a strand of scale wire rope! You can twist more strands of wire together to form a thicker rope. Like the rigging of sailing ships, different parts of the ship used different thicknesses of rope. You vary the thickness of the rope by using more or less strands of wire, or using heavier gauges of wire. I have a variety of gauges in hand, ranging from #40 (fine, like hair) to #32 (heavy - the stuff that beaders use to make necklaces) and each gets used on the same model. Head off to a craft shop or electrical shop and look at the guages of wire available. From that, you will get a real idea of what you need to buy in nichrome. Cheers, Dr. Kerry Jang ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Loren Perry Subject: Mike Ashey's 1/350 Arizona appears in FSM The March 2003 issue of FineScale Modeler features an eight-page article with 32 photos and a beautiful portrait of the ship on a two-page spread on superdetailing the Trumpeter 1/350 USS Arizona using GMM photoetched fittings, a resin Kingfisher, and numerous other details. Author Mike Ashey's exceptionally clean and well painted model also appears on the cover of the issue, and he shows how to deal with the multi-piece deck assembly and other tricky areas. Bravo Zulu and well done Mike! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: Hubert Letterly Subject: young modelers Hi Victor, While reading about your gift to the neighborhood children reminded me of my two granddaughters, Morgan 5 and Brittani 10, when they visit grandpa. The first thing Morgan asks is "can we go down to grandpa's room?" She has been watching me build ships for a couple of years now and has decided to try her hand at it, to my enjoyment. I have an immense amount of Evergreen Styrene used for building masters for kits and I never throw the scraps away. All the scraps are put into small jars for future use and the scraps from the hull is put into a box. She has watched this while we were having some of grandma's snacks. About a year ago she ask to set on my lap at the desk and picked up a reject hull and the tweezers and proceeded to build her own boat from the scrap jar. She knows which glue to use and she sand each piece before gluing. She even had her big sister scratchbuilding too although she would rather color in a book or play school. They both have a small collection of reject resin hulls that they give to playmates. Morgan learned how to pour resin last summer when David Angelo put an apron, rubber gloves [up to her armpits], and safety glasses on her and stood her on a tall stool so she could reach the workbench. She pours the resin, mixes, injects it into mold and then removes it at the proper time. That is one of her favorite ways to spend the day with me and I really enjoy it myself. Who knows, this may be the next generation of kit manufactures learning the trade. Hugh ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: MGFoster Subject: Civilian aircraft catapults Fkborwn90 (Franklyn) wrote: >> I just ran across an interesting bit of nautical aircraft history. In 1929 the North German Lloyd's passenger ocean liner BREMEN and in 1930 the EUROPA had aircraft catapults which were used to dispatch ... << According to the book THE SEAPLANES by Henry R. Palmer, Jr. (p. 33, caption) "Several of these Dornier Wal flying boats were used to carry mail accross the South Atlantic by Germany's Lufthansa during the early Thirties. Unable to carry sufficient fuel to make the crossings non-stop, the planes were landed alongside a mother ship stationed in mid-ocean, hoisted aboard (after taxiing onto a drag trailed astern), refueled and shot on their way by catapult. The system was used with varying degrees of success for several years." And, according to the book FLYING BOATS AND SEAPLANES: since 1910, by Kenneth Munson, (p. 122) "... [Lufthansa] employed the Wal on its regular South Atlantic mail services from February 1934. [...] a total of 328 crossings were made before the service was withdrawn." Another quote, from the book THE ILLUSTRATED HISTORY OF SEAPLANES AND FLYING BOATS, by Maurice Allward, (p. 86) "... in 1933 by Lufthansa, [...], was to catapult seaplanes from mother ships which had carried them part of the way across the ocean. Initially, the mother ship WESTFALEN was used to carry Dornier Wal (Whale) flying boats, which, loaded with mail, were launched as soon as the ship had taken them within range of the South American continent. Using this technique, regular air mail services were inauguarated in 1934. Later a Blohm and Voss Ha-139 four-engined float plane, launched from the mother ship SCHWABENLAND, operated across both the North and South Atlantic." Regards, MGFoster:::mgf Oakland, CA (USA) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Stephen Varhegyi" Subject: KGV Decks For anyone who's interested, I managed to stumble over a nice B/W aerial shot of KGV today on the net. Can't remember the site, this was at work. It has answered one of my questions. It looks very much like the decks were painted in 501a, with several areas showing paint wearing off, such as forward of A turret. When you look at the stern the decking appears to be a much darker colour than the hull or superstructure. One aerial shot from above the bow I previously found, showed some natural wood decking in front of A turret but fading to a darker colour as you move out towards the edges and the bow. Now I've seen this new picture, it all makes sense. With the heavy seas in the North Atlantic the wash coming over the bow had severely weathered the paint on the decking. This will make a very interesting painting subject. A mixture of weathered wood and 501a? I know this all sounds a bit anal but god I'm chuffed. Steve ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: wem Subject: Re: Bismarck?'s/Night Diorama Hints >> It has been preached here many times, that KM ships were painted in two greys. I want to know if the lighter colour is for the superstructure or the hull? << The lighter colour is for the superstructure. It is Hellgrau 50 (Colourcoats KM01). The darker colour is Dunkelgrau 51 (Colourcoats KM02). >> Would this apply to Bismarck in May 1941? << Yes. >> Does anybody have any decals of swastikas I could use for the bow and stern? << IIRC one of the decal companies (Microscale?) makes sheets of various-sized swastikas. >> (or find a way of making the 109 in 1/700th scale to go with an available Japanese destroyer). << Find a way of making the 109 in 1/700?? Oh Ned, Ned, where have we gone wrong??! WEM K741, 1/700 PT-109, 2 to a bag.... Best, John Snyder The Token Yank White Ensign Models Home Page for WEM, http://WhiteEnsignModels.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: DortaB Subject: Re: Bismarck I'll leave the paint to others, but for the swaztikas, try 1/48 or 1/72 aircraft decals. George Tampa ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: VonsHobbyWorld Subject: Re: USS NJ 1/350 scale Tamiya cont...... Michael, I apologize, the article was moved to a different forum on the site. Below is the correct link; http://pub143.ezboard.com/fmodelfleetfrm17.showMessage?topicID=10.topic Again, it is a quick "How To" so if you have any further questions, just let me know. Best regards, Dan ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: Sanartjam Subject: Re: Chapaev & Sverdlov References Hi SMML, Does anyone know of any good references on the Soviet Chapaev and Sverdlov class light cruisers? Other than the article in Warship, that is. Is there a Modelist Konstruktor issue on them? Thanks! Art Nicholson ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: ELLshipmodeler Subject: Re: 8 mm to dvd VONJERSEY writes: >> is there a way to transfer 8 mm movies (a great format and had lasted for decades) directly to dvd by skipping the transfer to dvd << Or a way to scan in high resolution 8mm frames to print photos? Many years ago I used a high end (for then) photo enlarger in a school lab and got fantastic prints. I no longer have that access. I am able to get great high resolution scans from a HP 35mm slide and negative (4 image max) scanner. Trying to adapt it to 8mm is tough without cutting the film since the scanner moves the slide as it scans and there is no through passage for 8mm film strip. It can be done by adapting a plastic slide holder so the scanner thinks there is a slide there, but it is a real chore and is only successful occasionally. The better camera stores have no suggestions. I have some 50 year old images of my models, Naval Academy cruises, and family on 8mm, and I would like to preserve them digitally. The plastic film won't last forever, and the quality of transferring to video tape is sadly lacking. Then the tape won't last. I imagine even a transfer directly to DVD as questioned above would be lacking in quality/resolution if only because of file size, making low resolution scans necessary. Gene Larson Alexandria, VA NRG Member ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "RUSSELL SMITH" Subject: Getting Kids interested in modeling This doesn't work for all kids but this is what I do. My local library has three glass cases mounted in the entry hall (Rome, NY) For two months of the year, April and May I have models on display there and a short writeup about naval history. I also make myself available to answer questions for a couple of saturdays while the display is up. I have seven grandchildren and am lucky that they all live within fifteen miles of me. I pick up old Linburgh line or aurora models and sometimes Tamiya and such when I see them. When the kids come to stay for a day or two I help them put the ships together and then they can do whatever they want with the model. Not, all of them still like to do this and some just destroy them in mock battles but I did that too many years ago. They enjoy the model and the building of it. Perhaps someday they will be interested in building with great accuracy but for now I try to make it fun. My oldest grandson age 13 has started building resin models now. He works for me in me woodshop or for his parents to get the money. I bought him a Italian Battleship for Christmas. He loves those Red and white stripes! Maybe, I can bring him back from the Dark Side of cars and planes where he is leaning toward now. I guess what I,m saying is, I spent time with them, then let them make mistakes and let it be theirs to do with as they wish and they seem to enjoy that. This works for me and them apparently. Regards Russ Smith ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: Darald Bantel Subject: Re: Bismarck Suggest that you look at the drawings and photos on the Bismarck website! www.KBismarck.com Darald ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From: "Daniel Bauer" Subject: Re: Bismarck? Hello Keith, The Hull should be dunkelgrau51, the superstructure hellgrau 50. The boot was dunkelgrau2.The ship's launches were hellgrau 50 with the bottoms dunkelgrau 2. The upper deck works were either teak, or dunkelgrau 2. You can look for the emblems from various decal suppliers. I use small strips of masking tape and then paint them. The bow section has alot of detail which makes placing a decal difficult. The front emblem had a gray or red banner. The stern emblem had no banner or some say it did. In either case they were covered during Rhienubung, either by canvas or painted over. You can get the actual colours used from WEM in the UK. The turrets tops were either dunkelgrau 2, red, or yellow. There is much debate on the actual color. I say gray as most who have researched Bismarck will say. There is a possiblity the turret tops were painted yellow from May 26th, until the sinking.The jury is still out on that however. Hope that helps! Regards, Dan Bauer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From: James Corley Subject: Bismark paint??s >> I have had a half built Academy 350 Bismarck dropped in my lap and have been asked to finish it. It has been preached here many times, that KM ships were painted in two greys. I want to know if the lighter colour is for the superstructure or the hull? Would this apply to Bismarck in May 1941? If not then what grey should I be using? How were the ships boats hull and superstructure painted? They look white with a teak deck and a black bottom. Does anybody have any decals of swastikas I could use for the bow and stern? Paint them? Ha! Not these shaky hands. << Keith, If you like acrylics, Testors offers all the DKM colors in their line. For the Bismark you'll need: main hull color - Dunkelgrau 51 #4258 light camoflage - Helgrau 50 #4257 dark camoflage - Dunkelgrau 2 #4267 white stripes - use either bulwark white #4201 or flat white #4769 in regular rack lower hull - anti fouling red #4228 The lower hull color I suggested is great, IMO, for US ships. German ships used a slightly redder color, as shown in Wipers Prinz Eugen book. Nazi decals can be had from almost any aircraft decal sheet. The size you'll need is around 1/2" across. I've never heard the real size question answered but I have heard assertions that the swastika was either 200", 210" or 225" across. In scale this works out to 0.57, 0.60 or 0.64" respectively. I do happen to have a set of swatikas with either solid or outlines that are 0.47, 0.52 or 0.62 across, it is TechMod Decals #32003H, SRP is 12.98. A great site for the Bismark in general and the camoflage in particular is: http://www.bismarck-class.dk/bismarck/paint_schemes/paintbism1941rheinubung.html Notice how for the 1941 breakout the high visibility nazi markings had been replced by greys. James Corley AAA Hobby Supply ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From: Keith Butterley Subject: 350 hose reel hoses Hi, What does the combined wisdom say to use to simulate the "hose" on the "reel" in 350? Thanks Keith Butterley ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume