Subject: SMML VOL 2121 Date: Fri, 14 Feb 2003 16:51:27 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Aztec airbrushes 2: Air Brushing 3: Re: Prinz Eugen-German 101 4: Re: Thinning of Paint for Airbrushing 5: Aztec Airbrush 6: Australia tips 7: Tribals in Korea 8: Decking ships 9: Aztec clogging 10: Seefahrt in aller Welt? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: WEM Hornet PE Now Shipping!! 2: Model Ship Journal for Spring 2003 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: DILIANE Subject: Re: Aztec airbrushes I have been using one for the last couple years, after years of a Badger. I initially had a lot of trouble keeping the nozzles clean, and usable. After some help from the nice folks at Aztec, and a little experimenting, I now am able to use the machine with little trouble. When I finish a color, I rinse with clean water, then spray some of the cleaning solution through the nozzle. And then every once in a while, I store the nozzles in cleaning solution to loosen any dried paint. I only use acrylics, and it has been working fine for me. Jim Campbell Chippewa Falls, Wi ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Raymond Guy" Subject: Air Brushing Hi All Have been very interested in the discussion taking place on the subject. I have never tried this form of painting as apart from the fear of the unknown I have always, as I thought, achieved good results by hand painting my ships with a Windsor & Newton artist camelhair using both enamels and acrylics. Sometime ago I had mail on the subject with Bruno who kindly sent me a series of shots of models built by himself and the group of youngsters he teaches. I saw a kit in the local model shop but with our lousy monopoly money it was notoriously expensive. Could someone briefly explain to me what I could gain by switching to airbrushing, obviously it has something to do with the finishing , but the thought of masking off the model to do the camouflage (the POW comes to mind here) seems extremely daunting. In the past I have always done this free-hand. Having reviewed the kit I saw, I found I could save a great deal of money by purchasing a compressor imported from the Far East which comes complete with moisture trap and has a larger air capacity for a quarter of the price. The problem here, as I see it, is going to be adapting the airbrush connections to suite the compressor. Guys any help and advice here would be appreciated. Ray ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Baumbach, Werner" Subject: Re: Prinz Eugen-German 101 Okay fellow SMMLies, I promise, this will be my last posting on the topic. Thanks to Richard and and Bill for the reference of the Mullenheim-Rechberg book (very interesting). I do not own it so far, but a quick check of amazon suggests that I will fairly soon. As I said, I am happy to hear about special customs in this case. I'll read the book with interest for sure. However, even this this quote, it was certainly not used consistently (see my quote of Fritz Otto Buschs book printed during the war). In any case, I own several books on the Bismarck (in German) that all use the "correct" (meaning the vast majority of German speaking folks would use it) form of "die Bismarck". Same is used on TV, in newspapers ... So, I learned a nice story, but the genereal statements on usage of article remain correct. And to Bill's comment, I don't think the discussion of German articles was irrelevant at all. Statements like all German ships are refered to as "he" are definetely incorrect (even if there is one or several exceptions to the rule), and I assume that some folks like to get it right from the locals. I wouldn't try to tell a New Yorker where the best hot dogs are sold either but accept advice... In any case, I don't think its necessary to keep this thread up any longer. Anyone interested in discussing this topic further, I posted my email in the last round of SMML. Happy modelling Werner ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Stephen Varhegyi" Subject: Re: Thinning of Paint for Airbrushing In the last posting a few guys said they had problems with their airbrushes clogging. The only time I've had this problem is if the airbrush wasn't cleaned properly after the last use and if I don't use enough thinner. I mostly use acrylics on aircraft and enamels on ships. I use different brushes for each. I've found that how smooth the paint flow is also depends on what type of paint you are using. In acrylics Gunze Sangyo is by far the best. I use Tamiya X20A acrylic thinner. I use methylated spirits to clean the airbrush. Acetone is also good if you can stand the fumes. I've tried Aeromaster acrylics and enamels and don't like them at all. The enamels are very powdery and hard to gloss up for decals. The acrylics are very sticky and tend to clog your airbrush no matter how much thinner you use. Aeromaster recommend distilled water which makes it even worse. Also I've found their clear matt doesn't go matt enough, much prefer Gunze Sangyo matt clear. Humbrol super enamels also work well using the super enamel thinners. The only thing I don't like is the fumes. Also it's a bit harder and messier to clean up than acrylic. The finishes however are very good and humbrol enamels also brush very well, giving good adhesion and coverage. For thinner ratios I usually use about a 50/50 so the paint is like the consistency of milk. You can get very subtle results with this ratio. For things like exhaust stains and panel shading I might even go down to a 70% thinner mix. Using alot of air and a little paint you can really control the shading. Also you tend not to get as much overspray when using higher thinner ratios. Other modellers marvel over my realistic Luftwaffe mottle schemes and soft but contained demarcation lines. Ooops! Now you know my secret. Seriously, you need to experiment with paints and thinner mixes to find what works best. It's not always the airbrush that's at fault, there is a human and chemical element at work. Some guys also use just a drop of dishwashing liquid to break surface tension when spraying. Steve Varhegyi ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: Kelvin Mok Subject: Aztec Airbrush >> and, despite careful cleaning post-use, I had to reclean it prior to the next use. << I find that after cleaning do apply a tissue paper or rag to the tip to draw off the meniscus of solvent which may still have residual paint. Otherwise thin layers of paint soon build up inside the tip. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: enrico_villa Subject: Australia tips Hi everybody, I'm planning a trip to Australia, and I would appreciate any suggestions in terms of hobby/book shops and other ships-related things to see (museums, etc.). I will be visiting Sydney, Melbourne, Adelaide, Darwin and Cairns (actually Alice Springs area as well, but I don't expect many ships there...). Thanks a lot and happy modeling! Enrico ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Ron Hillsden Subject: Tribals in Korea This subject has been discussed before. I was going to cut and paste a few nuggets from the SMML archives, but when I started, I realized the response would be too long. Suggest you go to the SMML archives (URL at the bottom of this page) and search on "RCN colour". I got 48 hit, and they covered prototype and model paints.... Ron Hillsden Victoria BC Canada flags: http://members.shaw.ca/modelflags/ club: http://members.shaw.ca/VMSS/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Eamon69PA Subject: Decking ships Hello SMMLies, I have just finished laying a wood deck on my 1/350 BB-62 New Jersey. I followed Dan von Gartzens' excellent advice that was listed in an earlier post. I am at the point where I have to sand, stain and then finish the deck, and I could use some advice on what color, type of sealer etc. (Don, are you out there?) Thanks is advance! Ed Wandall North Wales, PA P.S. Paging Dr. Rathgeber. Hows your New Jersey coming? Have any spare 5 inch mounts? My cat absconded with one. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: O'Connor Subject: Aztec clogging I use the older Testors airbrush, which uses the same tips as the Aztek. The tips are able to be broken down into sub parts, and cleaned completely. Use a toothbrush and also soak the tips in the appropriate thinner, in spite of what the manufacturer says. It has always worked for me. I do this regularly. Another technique is to use a toothbrush with the appropriate thinner on it to handle in-progress problems. I have found that when I did not thin properly, I can go back and take care of the problem of paint buildup on the nose of the tip by toothbrush cleaning the tip front and adding sufficient thinner to the paint cup, restirring and continuing painting. I am always to blame when the airbrush is not working right- well, after I calm down, anyway. Take a few days and a few old kits, experiment with paints, thinners and settings. I do that periodically, and it reminds me of how much I forget from painting season to painting season (I live in Fla, so painting does not occur from late May thru October-I paint outside in the garage where the humidity is about 10000% in the summer). That reminds me- check your humidity levels- it always affects your paint and anything that results from it. Bob O'Connor ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: CCORRALIZA Subject: Seefahrt in aller Welt? Hello everyone, Does anyone own or seen the German language periodical mentioned above. Published between 1954-1959 or so. Are these the German language equivalent of Warship Profile of the 1970s and the current Polish language Profile Morskie? Dos Seefahrt... include plans, scale drawings, etc? Or is it mostly text and photos? Thanks. Felix C. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: John Snyder Subject: WEM Hornet PE Now Shipping!! It's been an arduous couple of days cutting brass, printing instructions, and packing, but all of our photoetch sets for the Trumpeter 1/350 Hornet are now on their way to our customers who pre-ordered. For a look at the sets, go to: http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/wembrass/wempe3525.jpg http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/wembrass/wempe3526.jpg http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/wembrass/wempe3546.jpg http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/wembrass/wempe3547.jpg http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/wembrass/wempe3548.jpg http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/wembrass/wempe3530.jpg http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/wembrass/wempe3531.jpg http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/wembrass/wempe3532.jpg http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/wembrass/wempe3533.jpg http://dspace.dial.pipex.com/white.ensign.models/wembrass/wempe3542.jpg Cheers, John Snyder White Ensign Models http://whiteensignmodels.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Victor M. Baca" Subject: Model Ship Journal for Spring 2003 We are currently producing the Spring 2003 (Volume 4 #1) issue of Model Ship Journal. There will be model coverage of everything from a fine scale USS Texas to Doug Bauer's highly detailed German Vorpostenboot from the WWII era. I'm placing some very interesting plans and ship's photos in this issue as well. A note on back issues: The current issue, Winter 2002-2003 (Vol. 3 #4) has completely sold out. These magazines will be selling quickly from now on, so I cannot guarantee delivery direct from our office to other than subscribers on our list at the time of mailing (late March 2003). You'll still be able to obtain single issues from normal dealer channels (Squadron Mail Order, L'Arsenal, Christian Schmidt and Borders Books as well as hobby shops in the USA). If you've been wanting to subscribe--do it now and be assured that you'll have mail delivery of your magazines. Subscriptions per year: $35.00 USA, $45.00 outside USA Victor Baca Editor & Publisher MODEL SHIP JOURNAL www.modelshipjournal.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume