Subject: SMML VOL 2122 Date: Sun, 16 Feb 2003 06:01:21 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: oriana 2: Places to visit while you're in Melbourne 3: Queen Elizabeth 2 4: AZTEC AIRBRUSH 5: Re: Decking ships 6: Re: air brushing 7: World's Worst Warships 8: Airbrushes/Compressors 9: Response to David (Dafuelmann) Re. Pearl Harbor floating crane 10: Re: Australian Visit 11: Paging Bob Patmore- Nautilus guns 12: sources for IJN DD Amatsukaze after loss of bow? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Information 1: SMML site update ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: MPMenache Subject: oriana Hello, Does anyone have a copy of SS Oriana The last P & O Liner by Mccart. Planning to build the plastic kit and need the book! thanks mpmenache ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "David Clark" Subject: Places to visit while you're in Melbourne Enrico Some places to visit while you're in Melbourne: If you take a trip to Williamstown you can see one of the ANZAC frigates under construction. Also in Williamstown is the HMAS Castlemaine Maritime Museum (see link http://www.hmascastlemaine.com/). The Castlemaine is a Bathurst Class Corvette from WW2 and is the last of the class still afloat. Closer to the Central Business District on the Yarra River is the Polly Woodside Maritime Museum. The Polly Woodside one of only two 19th Century deepwater sailing ships still afloat in Australia. At Half Moon Bay you can see the hulk of the HMVS (and HMAS) Cerberus. Launched in 1870, the Cerberus is one of three Monitors left in the world (see link http://home.vicnet.net.au/~cerberus/) There are three hobby shops and three bookshops with a military/naval emphasis: Hearns Hobbies is in Flinders Street in the Flinders Street Railway Station building (opposite the intersection with Elizabeth Street. The Victorian Hobby Centre is in Swanston Street between Flinders Street and Flinders Lane. Hobby Place is in Lonsdale Street between Swanston and Elizabeth Streets (closer to Swanston Street) Hylands Bookshop is the largest military and transport bookshop in the Southern Hemisphere. It is in Flinders Lane between Elizabeth and Queen Streets. It is not easy to find but it is well worth a visit. Napoleon's Bookshop is in Elizabeth Street near its intersection with Lonsdale Street (I think). The Technical Bookshop is in Swanston Street between Lonsdale and La Trobe Streets, not far from Melbourne Central Station. It's bad luck you're not taking in Canberra as the Australian War Memorial is worth visiting. Have a great trip. David ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: Martyn Denchfield Subject: Queen Elizabeth 2 does anyone know what modifications were carried out to the QE2 for the falklands war? martyn denchfield ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Dean, Tom" Subject: AZTEC AIRBRUSH Hi Gang: I received an AZTEC #A4709 air brush for Christmas and had my first real opportunity to use it yesterday. I applied a primer and a first coat to a F****R Class hull. I was very pleased with it. I use acrylics almost exclusively and had no trouble at all. I changed tips a few times without stopping. I just removed a tip and dropped it in a saucer of warm water until I need it again. When I was finished I just filled the jar with hot water and blew each tip through into a sink until clear. Cleared any little paint bits off with a tooth pick (carefully). If you are using Testor Model Master paints, you can use the actual jar without decanting into the paint jars that come with the brush kit. For some reason they don't mention this in the book or the video that comes with it, but it saves on wasted paint. After the difficult time I had over the years with Badger airbrushes it was a nice change. The Badger brushes were forever clogging, especially with the acrylics, and needed constant disassemble and cleaning. Like someone mentioned in an earlier message I got to the point that I dreaded using them and did a lot by hand. The last one I had, can't remember the model number, but it cost $90.00 Cdn, literally blew apart at the connection for the air hose after a few years. I was so fed up with it anyway that I didn't bother about getting it repaired or replaced. So with the limited use of my new AZTEC I am impressed with it's flexibility and paint coverage. Tom Dean Hamilton, Ontario Canada ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: VonsHobbyWorld Subject: Re: Decking ships Ed Wandall, I am pleased that the article helped and apologize for the lack of the finishing steps in the short article. I hope to have the full version up soon. For the finishing of the wood decks, start with a good sanding with 400-600 grit sandpaper (using a sanding stick in tight areas) until the deck is smooth. Clean the decks with a toothbrush or a damp q-tip. The deck should be clean and very smooth. This may take some time to do, but a very smooth and clean deck makes the results the best they can be. After the deck has been smoothed and cleaned, it's time to apply the stain. I prefer Minwax stains. They work very well for this procedure and the color used is "golden pecan". Apply this with a q-tip that is damp with the stain, too much stain will cause the deck to sweat. Allow the stain to dry 24hrs. Once the deck is totally dry, you can weather it with Age-it-Easy or a Paynes Gray wash (wash made with acrylic Paynes Gray mixed with water and small dab of dish detergent). Allow the decks to dry again then lightly sand the decks which will blend the weathering and stain and give a realistic wood deck. As far as overcoats, I prefer to cover the deck with the rest of the ship with a matt finish overcoat. A wood sealer is not necessary. If you have decals to place on the wood, just apply gloss coat in the area, apply the decal then overspray with your matt finish. I hope this helps and if you have any further questions just let me know. Dan von Gartzen ModelFleet.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "David L. Miller" Subject: Re: air brushing I have argued this point a number of times, but here I go again. I much prefer using compressed gas (CO2) for air brushing. My reasons: 1. Ease of use.Compressed gas is dry so there is no messing around with filters, moisture traps, etc. 2. Cost. I had a Passche compressor that I used for about four years. Then it left me stranded in the middle of a paint job. You probably will not find an airbrush compresor/regulator for less than $125. Better quality ones start at about $200. After a frustrating compressor search, I read aboout using CO2. I bought a used regulator for $35, and paid an $80 DEPOSIT on the medium size tank that is redeemable when my airbrushing days are done! Refils are now about $10. Recently, I got a second tank as a backup. I get the tanks refilled at an industrial supply place only a few blocks from my house. Tanks and gas may also be available at beverage supply locations. 3. Operation. No chugging and humming of a compressor, of course "silent" compressors are available at higher cost. The compressed gas system makes a pleasent hissing noise when in use. Once I switched to CO2 I found that I could airbrush later in the evening without disturbing my children's bedtime! If you are just starting out, and do not know if you will be using an airbrush on a regular basis, I would try compressed gas rather than a compressor. At least you could get part of your money back if you do not like the airbrush. Regards, Dave Miller, Macomb, IL ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Leonard, Michael W" Subject: World's Worst Warships The Naval Institute Press has finally published Antony Preston's "The World's Worst Warships", 30 case studies of a ship or class of ships (dating from the 1860s) that the author deemed failures of naval construction. These are listed chronologically: US Civil War monitors Turret ship HMS Captain Russian coastal defense ships Popov & Novgorod Armored rams HMS Polyphemus & USS Katahdin Russian armored cruiser Rurik Dynamite cruiser USS Vesuvius HMS Powerful class protected cruisers Borodino class battleships (Russia) Destroyer HMS Swift Viribus Unitis class dreadnoughts (Austria-Hungary) Normandie class dreadnoughts (France) AA class fleet submarines (USA) Flush deck (four-stacker) destroyers (USA) K class submarines (UK) HMS Courageous/HMS Glorious/HMS Furious light battlecruisers Fast battleship HMS Hood USS Omaha class light cruisers HMSwS Gotland hybrid cruiser Duquesne class heavy cruisers (France) Deutschland class pocket battleships Condottieri class light cruisers (Italy) IJNS Ryujo aircraft carrier Mogami class cruisers (Japan) Yamato class super battleships (Japan) Bismark class battleships HMS Implacable class fleet carriers Hydrogen peroxide fueled submarines (US/UK/Germany/USSR) Alpha class SSN (USSR) Type 21 ASW firgate (UK) La Combattante class fast attack craft (various navies) (I noted a number of cherished SMML subjects on Mr. Preston's list!) MWL Reston, VA USA ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: NeustadtDonau Subject: Airbrushes/Compressors Ray: I won't argue the merits of airbrush versus hand painting, but, if you are interested in airbrushing, bottled air is far superior to compressors. Carbon dioxide as a propellent is dry and requires no moisture trap. It does not pulse with stroke of the piston. As it is not mechanical, there is no noise; an important consideration if you live with or near other human beings. To get a compressor that performs as quietly as CO2, you could spend over $300US. To get set up with bottled air, inquire at air/gas and welding suppliers. A deposit os $75 or so is required for the air bottle. You will need a carbon dioxide regulator to deliver the air to your airbrush system. Basic regulators are in the $40-50 range. They have one gauge to measure exit pressure. Dual guage regulators measure exit pressure and bottle pressure, as well, and cost $90-100. I prefer the later; I'd rather not run out of air unexpectedly. When you run out of air, you take the empty to your supplier and they will replace it with a full one for about $15. So you get top of the line performance for about $175-200. Just my opinion, John Collins Franklin, TN, USA ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: SceneN3D@aol.com Subject: Response to David (Dafuelmann) Re. Pearl Harbor floating crane David The large floating crane you speak of was inherited by the 14th Naval District as a part of war reparations from the Kaiser after the signing of the armistice in 1918 and was transported out to Pearl during the 1920's. This 150 ton monster was subsequently designated a floating derrick ( YD-25) and played a prominant role in the extended salvage operations after 12/07/41. Incidentally, it was berthed at pier B-5, Pearl Harbor Navy Yard repair basin during the Japanese attack. HTH and best regards, Bob Bracci ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: "Stephen Varhegyi" Subject: Re: Australian Visit While in Sydney you should visit the Maritime Museum in Darling Harbour. They have some great ship models and also some real ships. HMS Vampire a retired RAN Daring Class destroyer is moored in Darling Harbour and open for inspection. They also have a Russian submarine and various sailing ships. Well worth a visit. Also plenty of bars and restaurants located there and a great view of the city. There is also the Power House Museum which is located near there. Not exactly ship stuff but well worth a visit. If you want to take pictures of naval ships you could go to Garden Island naval base, but it depends what's in port and whether they are open for inspection. So far as hobby shops, there is Hobbyco located in the city, off Pitt Street Mall. Further down pitt street towards central railway station there is Napoleon's military book shop. This is close to the corner of Pitt and Liverpool Streets. The easiest way to get around and see these things is to buy a monorail pass. The monorail goes right through Darling Harbour up into the city. If you get off at World Square monorail station and turn right when you come out, Pitt Street is the next one you come to, just turn left and Napoleon's is about three doors up. If you then get back on the monorail and and go to the city centre station Hobbyco isn't far away. Everyone knows it so just ask. I think it's in the Mid City Centre. If you then get back on the monorail and go to Harbourside station this will drop you not far from the maritime museum. Don't worry if you miss a stop, as it is a continuous loop and a great way to see the city without getting sore feet. I think they also have packages which might include admission to some of the things I've mentioned. The president of the NSW IPMS, Gus Obarzanek is a monorail driver, so if you see a slightly balding guy with a moustache that's him. While in Sydney you should take a ferry cruise on the harbour and go to Taronga Park Zoo which has some great views of the city. You could also drop in to some of the local model club meetings, if you've got time. The APMA run theirs at the same place as the IPMS, Ryde City Bowling Club in Blaxland Road at Top Ryde. The APMA meetings are on the 2nd saturday each month and the IPMS on the 4th saturday. You'd have a chance to meet some local modellers, all good fellas. If you'd like to attend a meeting and need a lift give me a ring on 9642-7971. No STD code required if you're ringing from Sydney. Hope you have a good time. Steve Varhegyi ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Ives100 Subject: Paging Bob Patmore- Nautilus guns Bob Patmore posted a request over a week ago for photos of the guns on the USS Nautilus (SS 168), the US submarine cruiser. As I responded in SMML, I have color closeups from several angles of her sister ship Narwhal's 6 inch guns. These photos of the guns were taken on the grounds of the New London submarine base, where they now stand. I have scanned the photos, along with Nautilus/Narwhal plans, but have not heard from Bob Patmore. I posted that if you wanted these photos, please contact me offline. If you are out there and still interested, please contact me. Tom Dougherty ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: "Franz Aigner GmbH" Subject: sources for IJN DD Amatsukaze after loss of bow? wanting to model Amatzukaze in 1/700 after the loss of the bow (at time of final sinking), I have so far found some great action fotos in Hickey's "Warpath accross the pacific", and a sideview plan in Gakken 23. Is there more? Has somebody built this subject before, and could share his experiences? Richard ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Model club & SMMLcon Information ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Mistress Lorna Subject: SMML site update Hi all, In this update, Dan Jones has graciously allowed SMML to host his articles from Out of Print Plastic Ship Modelers - here you'll find gems that were previously the province of people who had access to the issues. SMML is proud to be able to give them a permanent home for the years to come and make this information more readily available to modellers. A must for anyone building a DKM ship is the German Camouflage series but a quick look below shows that there is something for everyone. So check out the site because the follwing has been added: New Mainbrace Gallery for the following: Lindsay Charman Updated the following Mainbrace Galleries: Andrew Jones, Bruce Ross The following PSM articles have been added to articles: Blue Funnel Line Steamers The Doxford Standard Design Early Bulk Carriers: American Colliers The Harriman Type: Shipping Board Design 1025 The Hog Islanders IJN Hosho and her aircraft IJN Ise/Hyuga BBCV IJN Katori Class Training ships IJN Kumano and Suzuya - Mogami Class Cuisers IJN Minekaze, Kamikaze and Mutsuki class Destroyers IJN Momi and Wakatake class Destroyers IJN Type 13 Subchaser Tamiya 1/700 IJN Yubari Detailing the Tamiya 1/700 kit Kreigsmarine Camouflage 1939 - 45 Kriegsmarine Destroyers Part 1 - Z Class Destroyers Z1 - Z16 Kriegsmarine Destroyers Part 2 - Z Class Destroyers Z5 - Z16 Kriegsmarine Destroyers Part 3 - Z Class Destroyers Z23 - Z30 Narvik Type Kriegsmarine Destroyers Part 4 - Z Class Destroyers Z31 onwards MV Edmund Fitzgerald OSK Line Freighters Scharnorst and Gneisenau Liners SS Arundel Castle SS Athenia SS Ballarat SS Empress of Australia SS Pennsylvania 1872 Tugs - Servants of the Seas USS Wyoming - The Last Monitor Type 42 DDs HMS Exeter & Newcastle added to British References Updated Links page Archives 2109-2122 added Enjoy it! Cheers Mistress Lorna ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume