Subject: SMML VOL 2235 Date: Wed, 09 Jul 2003 03:04:35 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: WW1 Subchasers 2: Re: Eagle boat PE56 3: Re: Yellowed decals 4: WENMAC Model Tanker 5: Re: Yellowed decals 6: USS Darter wreck? 7: Re: Trident Hobbies 8: deck coverings 9: Rehabilitating Yellowed Decals 10: Rehabilitating yellowed decals 11: Re: Oldest ship still in service 12: grafspee.jpg 13: From stem to stern, the carrier Ronald Reagan is ready ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Millen, Alan R." Subject: WW1 Subchasers Franklyn and others, I have just recently scored a book entitled "U.S. Official Pictures of the Great War, Special New York Edition, 1920." It covers all aspects of the war, Army, Marines, Air Service, and Navy. Several pictures of the 110 footers are in it, many pictures of camouflage patterns on the larger ships, etc. Most I had never seen before. Hundreds of pages total. Would anyone have a scanner handy to share these with our audience? I don't happen to have one. I would prefer someone in the Philadelphia, as I am hesitant to ship it, and would meet someone half-way. Gonna be down my way any time soon, Franklyn? That is, IF there is an interest. Alan Roy Millen ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: Fkbrown90 Subject: Re: Eagle boat PE56 To: Ken Goldman You are right, I stand corrected. It was two weeks before V-E Day, not V-J Day. Thanks for the info. Franklyn ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Graham Boak" Subject: Re: Yellowed decals Yellowed decals can be restored by leaving them in the presence of sunlight - perhaps by taping them to a window for a week or two. Possibly a UV light would work - worth a try? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Jeffry Fontaine" Subject: WENMAC Model Tanker In my wanderings around town I occasionaly frequent second hand shops and about two weeks ago I came across a model of a tanker that was about two feet in length fully assembled in black, red, white, green plastic with some chrome plated fittings here and there about the deck. I was unable to discern the scale of the model but it was sitting on top of the original box which said it was a WENMAC kit and the price was no where near my interest range. Could any of you all here in SMML shed some light on this kit? I had always thought that WENMAC made gasoline powered flying model airplanes so this kit was a bit of a surprise. Regards, Jeffry Fontaine Bremerton, Washington ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Devin J. Poore" Subject: Re: Yellowed decals >> Is there any way of re-habilitating decals that have yellowed? Thanks. << I know a lot of people have luck with simply setting the sheet in the sun for a few days, that will usually fade the yellow right out while leaving the decals unharmed. Devin ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Pwesty" Subject: USS Darter wreck? Hi List I was just wondering if anybody know just how much of the USS Darter (SS-227 is left on that reef that it got stuck on during WW2 or has the navy long ago scarp the wreck? Just wondering and thanks ;-> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: brya1716 Subject: Re: Trident Hobbies In regard to the inquiry about Trident Hobbies, I believe that Mr. Decker is on the road a good bit. So, he may be somewhat slow to respond, but I've ordered from him before. He'll eventually respond & provide what you've ordered. Hope this helps. Regards, Bill Bryant ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: ED LARYEH Subject: deck coverings Chris langtree contributed an excellent bit about deck coverings and colorings. I think a couple of points merit a little amplification. 1) Corticene was a linoleum covering, chocolatey brown, but Semtex, to the best of my knowledge, was a sort of asphalt like material. When I laid linoleum on board ship we painted a bit of steel deck with an adhesive, then heated the individual squares so they would be soft and flexible and conform to the steel surface we laid them on. But Semtex was applied with and smoothed with a trowel, and then left to harden. You could pry up sections of linoleum, but removing Semtex meant breaking it up, like chipping paint. Post war anti-skid materials were both self-adhesive traeds and troweled/sprayed gritty composites mixed with adhesives that had to dry. The post-war versions, both USN and RN, as I recall, were always black and never painted because a layer of paint, however thin, reduced the non-slip effect of the materials. 2) world war II decks (admitedly before my active service career) were, indeed, painted. Sometimes the camouflage was painted over the original deck materials. But early war camouflage practice in the RN usually did not include painting the decks at all. The Tribals and early Hunts started the war with brown corticene, unpainted. I assume the JKN classes, which were nearly contemporary, would also have had unpainted Semtex in the areas amidships. (bow and stern were steel and painted 507A dark grey) 3) The navigating bridge usually was covered by a wooden lattice, and, depending upon how old it was, colored dirty grey to yellowish or reddish natural wood (depending upon what varnish or preservatives were used on the wood) This lattice was never painted with the same materials used on other deck surfaces. 4) Last comment - Hosho had a wooden flight deck, but I don't remember what kind of wood, or what stain was used on it. (think I had this written down somewhere once, but I can't find it) At least some Japanese pre-war carriers had a reddish mahogany stain applied to the wood and it is possible that others were more like a bleached or greyish teak. Since Japanese deck markings were in white (except for the stern apron, where red and white was often used) I suspect the mahogany stain would have provided a greater contrast and been better for the aviators. As far as I know, there was no central authority controlling Japanese deck markings on the carriers and the individual captains may have had a lot of influence on how their ship looked from the air. Since Hosho was such an early carrier, you should expect that there was probably a certain amount of changing and experimentation in applying any deck markings. All that having been said, remember you are the one making the model. Unless you are particularly concerned about historical accuracy (i. e.a nit-picker, like me) paint it the way it looks best to you. Aryeh Wetherhorn Elazar, Israel ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "Stephen Varhegyi" Subject: Rehabilitating Yellowed Decals I've tried this techinique which worked. Find a sunny window in your home. Tape the decals to the window for a few days and you'll be pleasantly surprised. The sun will bleach the carrier film back to it's original colour. This worked on an old set of Fujimi decals I had. Obviously the efficacy will vary with decal quality and the strength of the sunlight. However I don't think you've got much to lose, because there is no other method I know of. If this fails you could always consider cutting off the excess carrier film. Hope this helps. Steve Varhegyi ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: BSteinIPMS Subject: Rehabilitating yellowed decals >> Is there any way of re-habilitating decals that have yellowed? Thanks. << Absolutely. Tape your decal sheet to the inside of one of your house's sun-facing windows. In time the sun will cause the yellowing to naturally fade out and become clear once again. Three provisos apply here: (1) select a window which does not experience condensation which will loosen your waterslide decals. (2) Don't leave the decal sheet in place so long that the decals themselves begin to fade. (3) After you achieve the results desired you will probably want to apply a clear overspray fixative such as Testors Dullcote or Glosscote to seal, protect, and prevent cracking and fragmentation of your decals. Bob Steinbrunn Stillwater, MN IPMS/USA #3345 Nautical Research Guild ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From: Les Pickstock Subject: Re: Oldest ship still in service I'd offer the 42 Ton/26 metre Passenger steamer "Lady of the Lake" which is still carrying tourists in the Lake District, Cumbria UK (Windermere, I think!) and has been doing so since 1877. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From: John Kutina Subject: grafspee.jpg http://www.acrosstheatlantic.com/archives/grafspee.jpg ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From: John Kutina Subject: From stem to stern, the carrier Ronald Reagan is ready http://home.hamptonroads.com/stories/story.cfm?story=56499&ran=210308 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume