Subject: SMML VOL 2309 Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 03:07:16 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Re: Prince of Wales References 2: Re: Fletcher-class Destroyers 3: Re: USCGC Eastwind flight deck 4: Re: Brass Monkeys 5: Re: EASTWIND 6: Re: Hobby shops in Milano or Florens, Italy 7: pins and dowels for deck furniture 8: PoW ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "Allan and Crystal Plumb" Subject: Re: Prince of Wales References >> I've decided on the Tamiya 1/350 Prince of Wales as my next project and I hope list members will recommend some good references with photos and drawings. I would like to depict this ship in May 1941 configuration. Any comments and suggestions are welcome! << 1) British Battleships of WWII by Raven & Roberts (which, BTW, is allegedly back in print by USNIP, but not on their site) 2) Allied Battleships by Dulin & Garzke (on their site, not cheap) are the best I know of for KGV diagrams in large scale. They're also in Warship Volume i-don't-recall, in smaller scale. Or Breyer's Battleships and Battlecruisers, which apparently is back in print although perhaps only in German. There's also Martin Middlebrook's book on the sinking of PoW and Repulse, with some fair picture but no diagrams. It's the only one I have that confirms Tamiya's claim of AA gun tubs on the stern, in 12/41 which is the way I built mine. Much more interesting camouflage! Enjoy. Allan Plumb ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "JOHN P WILCH JR" Subject: Re: Fletcher-class Destroyers I have several models of the USS Fletcher. I would like to build these into different ships of this class, so I need a better reference then the one I have (Squadron/Signal's publication: USS Fletcher in Action). I know that there are small differences between each ship, such as weapons (secondary weapons and such), and colors. So if anyone out there can help it I would be very thankful. Also, where can I find some after market detailing material (photo-etched metal, resin detail parts) in several different scales: 1:700, 1:720 and 1:350-scale. John P. Wilch Jr. (TSgt, USAF Ret.) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Reynaga, Tim@EDD" Subject: Re: USCGC Eastwind flight deck >> I am building the old Revell Eastwind and need some advice. What is the makeup of the decks? Are there steel plate as well as wood? Does the Helipad have a non-slip surface? What colors would the steel deck plates and the Helipad be? I would also like to thank Loren Perry for the great photo etch set for this oldie, it is very good! << Hi Dave, There are a number of pictures of USCGC Eastwind and her sisters at "Fred's Place": http://www.fredsplace.org/cgi-bin/psearch.cgi a virtual reunion hall for former crewmen and USCG enthusiasts generally. This site has a huge USCG photo archive with tons of great pictures. Definitely worth a look! For Eastwind there is a 1954 photo taken on the the flight deck at: http://www.military.com/fp-photos/pix2/02938_s.jpg showing it in natural wood at that time. The picture shows aircraft carrier style tie down strips as well, laid fore and aft spaced about three feet apart. Later color pictures at: http://www.military.com/fp-photos/pix2/02152_s.jpg and http://www.military.com/fp-photos/pix2/02148_s.jpg show that by 1966 Eastwind's flight deck had been covered with gray non-skid. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Tony Mattson" Subject: Re: Brass Monkeys With the recent focus on Brass Monkeys and other pseudo-nautical terms, I thought the following might be an option to consider. This comes from Evan Morris's excellent website: www.word-detective.com Origin of the Specious. Dear Evan: Can you please tell me where the expression "Brass Monkeys" (used when it's really cold) comes from. -- Karen, via the Internet. Considering that monkeys are our evolutionary cousins, more or less, the development of English slang has been of two minds regarding our little primate pals. The monkey crops up in countless folk sayings and catch phrases, some of which are vaguely affectionate -- to call a child a "monkey," for instance. More often, however, the monkey has been used as an object of mockery, from "making a monkey of" someone, meaning to cause them to look foolish, to "I'll be a monkey's uncle," an expression of astonishment. When we don a "monkey suit," or tuxedo, we're comparing our appearance to that of the organ grinder's monkey, dressed in a gaily colored outfit, that was a fixture of urban life in the 19th century. And while "monkey business" may connote either innocent silliness or underhanded behavior, to have a "monkey on one's back" is to be plagued by a stubborn addiction, usually to illegal drugs. Monkeys could use a good public-relations agent. The slang term "brass monkeys" is actually a shortening of the phrase "cold enough to freeze the tail off a brass monkey." (Common variants of the phrase almost invariably specify a more risque element of the monkey's anatomy, but we'll go with "tail" for purposes of this column.) While a brass monkey might seem an outlandish item, such knickknacks were, in fact, quite popular in Victorian drawing rooms, usually found in sets of three, set in the classic kitsch "see no evil, hear no evil, speak no evil" pose. Given that brass monkeys were the Lava Lamps of the age and thus never far from the Victorian mind, their use in the phrase is not surprising. Of course, given the shocking dearth of brass monkeys in modern living rooms, it's also not surprising that the phrase seems so mysterious to us today. Tony Mattson Editor- Mailship Scale Marine Modellers Inc. Auckland ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "David Edgerly" Subject: Re: EASTWIND Thanks to Duane and Loren, Both of your comments are very helpful! I found a rough photo of the ship showing a similar configuration to the Revell model but the details aren't clear. The overall layout is very similar though the helicopter is of an earlier type. I think I've got enough info to take the ball and run. Again, thanks. Dave E ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Reid, John (AFIT)" Subject: Re: Hobby shops in Milano or Florens, Italy Pelle, If you read any Italian, you could check www.paginegialle.it. The word to look for is "modellismo" not "hobby" which has a broader meaning in Italian than English. In addition to Enrico's suggestions in Milan, try: Navitren - via Giovanni da Milano, 2 - phone 02 701 26436 Rail Ship - via Vodice, 9 02 487 03179 These and others advertise in Italian railway modelling magazines, but names of this pair suggest they also do ships. Perhaps Enrico could give Metro stop references and/or comments for these? There are some shops in Florence who also advertise in railway mags, but their names are not promising - personally I do not think you will find any interesting model shop in Florence. Go to the Science Museum and see Renaissance models instead! If you happen to come to Rome, do try: Baby's Store - viale XXI Aprile, 40 06 44238578 - on top of "Bologna" metro line B. This definitely does have 1/700 resins including some rarities. (There are two nearby shops of this name - if you get to the one featuring baby carriages, ask for directions to the "modellismo" store!) If you are visiting Milan this weekend, try visiting "Hobby Model Expo" at the Novegro exhibition center adjacent to Milan Linate airport. 26-28 September, 0930-1900. This is THE show of the year for the modelling trade in Italy. OK, the proportion of ship models might be only 1%, but 1% of a lot is worth looking at. Please feedback to list what you think of the Milan shops. I would be very interested to know if they have any "old" kits in 1/1200. John Reid Aussie in Rome ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "richard wootten" Subject: pins and dowels for deck furniture Two ideas which, although I work in scales larger than those most on this list seem to use, I hope will be relevent. First I am sure that most will agree that a high proportion of damage occurs in transport, so I try to plan to make evrything removable that can be removed and transport it separately. And I keep it separate until I am finally ready to show/run the boat. Second, on the subject of pins or dowels for secure fixing I have found neither to be necessary. Instead I drill my holes in the deck and the fixture as near opposite each other as possible without being impossibly fussy about it and then drip cyano glue into the opposing holes before mating the two parts together. So long as you make quite sure the cyano runs well down into each hole and you give it extra time to dry the glue forms its own "pin" and you have a much stronger joint through the paint or varnish. A little judicious scratching of the paint if it can be hidden is a bonus. If the face of the fixture is too thin to make a hole the cyano will run into, e.g. dog-house walls, a short length of plastic tube fitted internally will do the trick almost as well. Slightly off the subject but still on damage limitation I find it pays to "design for damage" when you build. It is not unusual for it to be less trouble to have a whole assembly carry away than build so strongly that if it does get bashed the components are actually broken and half the deck is splintered as well. Boats in davits are a case in point. They are extremely vulnerable and it is much easier to make a good repair if, when you catch one on your sleeve the whole rig comes away, boat, falls, davits and all, than if you are left with two bent davits, a splintered deck, a crushed boat and a bunch of knitting! Lastly, fragile spars for looks or use. The fishing boys have some wonderful tapered glass fibre rods and tubes in all sizes and lengths. The thinnest I've seen are about 1mm tapering to say 2.5mm by about 14 inchs. The are surprisingly rigid and very strong but flexible. Used in large scale for radio antennae or small scale for yards they can take any amount of punishment a not hold a permanent set. Most good fishing tackle shops sell them, but as I don't know their technical names you will have to explain what you want Richard ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "Gernot Hassenpflug" Subject: PoW I think there is also a book by Burt on British Battelships which might have information on the PoW. Gernot Hassenpflug ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume