Subject: SMML VOL 2364 Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2003 02:31:00 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: Fletcher class Destroyers 2: Re: Things to do in the Netherlands 3: Nichimo NI2053 1:200 Yamato - no longer made? 4: Borodinos at Tsushima 5: 1/1200 Photoetch 6: Re: CIUDAD DE INCA 7: ASDIC WWII "Blindtime" 8: For John Reid 9: Re: Feline Bay 10: Re: keeping life of ColourCoats ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: "JOHN P WILCH JR" Subject: Fletcher class Destroyers I'm in need of some help to build my models (several in different scales) of the USS Fletcher. I would like to build them to represent the different ships that were built in this class, so I need a better reference then the one I have (Squadron/Signal's publication: USS Fletcher in Action). I know that there were small differences between each ship, such as weapons (secondary weapons and such), and colors. So if anyone out there can help I would be very appreciative. Also, does anybody know where can I find the after market detailing material (photo-etched, and resin detail parts) I have heard of in the different scales I have: 1:700, 1:720 and 1:350-scale. Thanks, Brothers and Sisters. John P. Wilch Jr. (TSgt, USAF Ret.) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Reid, John (AFIT)" Subject: Re: Things to do in the Netherlands Johnny Geldhof wrote: >> In Rotterdam, there is also a large marine museum. They also a large bookstore and modellingstore. In Rotterdam there is also situated the 'Mariniersmuseum'. Also very interesting. << Could we have the name, address and contact details for the bookstore and modeling store, please? John Reid ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "T. Kostis" Subject: Nichimo NI2053 1:200 Yamato - no longer made? Hello All, I was wondering if anyone could shed some light on this subject. I placed an order with Hobby Link Japan to purchase the Nichimo 1/200 IJN Battleship Yamato "Super Real Action" model number NCMU-2053, which was selling for 32,000 Yen. I picked this version cause it was the latest mold version with the R/C gears, lights, small radar motor and instructions (in English) included. After a month and a half of waiting for them to ship it, I was informed through e-mail that Nichimo has discontinued this model indefinitly. Would anyone have any follow-up information about this? Does anyone know if a follow-up to this version of the kit is in the future? Thanks Tony Kostis ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "D.Przezdziecki" Subject: Borodinos at Tsushima Me, Bil Ragan and Vladimir Yakubov are having a friendly debate about the paint scheme of 4 Borodino sisters during the Russo-Japanes War but since it is such a complicated topic I have decided to throw it open to the other members of the list. What I ask for is a bit of educated speculation and the sharing of your knowledge of black & white photos of the time: in most of the photos of Orel, Borodino, Aleks.III and Suvorov in "Rozdestvienskij scheme" the area from the waterline to the net shelf (armor belt) appears to be of the different shade than the rest of the hull. It would have been tempting to conclude that this area was painted in different colour than the black of the hull. Some of us think that it might have been grey but I have problem with this conclusion for following reasons: 1- even thou the difference in shade must be (and have been) as apparent to others as it is to us, no single written source (Russian or foreign) ever mentions that those ships were painted anything other than black & ochre, 2- with two exceptions, no colour painting show them as anything other than black/yellow and even those exceptions disagree- one, a painting by a Russian artist, shows this area to be red and the other one, a cover painting on a French book, shows it to be grey, 3- while there is photographic evidence that before joining 2nd Pacific Squadron some of the Russian older ships were repainted overall grey at the outbreak of Russo-Japanese War, there is no evidence that Borodinos were ever painted this way. Those 4 ships never even completed their final trials and, most probably, went straight from their early trials scheme (white with yellow funnels) to black with yellow funnels war scheme. 4- if Borodinos were indeed painted in three colour scheme, than why only Borodinos??? Why paint 16 ships one way and in 4 another??? And last but not least: I don't have any special problems accepting that armor belt looks to be of different shade because it could have been possibly painted gloss black while rest of the hull was satin (or semi-gloss) or the belt was satin while the rest of the hull was gloss but, until some new and convincing evidence comes along, I am unwilling to deviate from the orthodox overall black/yellow funels scheme. Best wishes Darius ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Richard Mitchell" Subject: 1/1200 Photoetch Does anyone on the group know if I can get 1/1200 photoetch enhancements for WW2 subjects in the UK, or similarly can you get resin or metal parts, it seems daft getting a couple fo dollars worth from the states? Richard Mitchell ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Tony Mattson" Subject: Re: CIUDAD DE INCA Michael London has asked whatever happened to the tall ship CIUDAD DE INCA Michael, I'm sorry to say that as far as I'm aware the Ciudad de Inca was renamed the MARIA ASUMPTA and subsequently grounded at Rumps Point, outside Padstow Harbour (north coast of Cornwall) and sank on 31 May 1995, with the loss of 3 lives. I believe that she did indeed make it to Quebec and then on to Ontario under the same ownership as the "Marques" but don't know which route was taken to avoid US seizure. You may wish to have a look at http://www.tallshipstock.com/masumpta.htm for a couple of pictures and the following http://www.schoonerman.com/amsink.htm has a description of the newspaper coverage of the loss and subsequent trial of the skipper on manslaughter charges. regards Tony Mattson Auckland, NZ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: "Kim Lee Christensen" Subject: ASDIC WWII "Blindtime" Can anyone explain whats the reason of the so called "Blindtime" phenomena. All I know it is when an Escort vessel looses contact with its ASDIC on a Uboat, its is about to attack with Depth charges and therefore the Escort vessel has to make a sprint on the last leg of it's attack run. With regards Kim LC ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: Joe Hinds Subject: For John Reid John, I have had great success in keeping paints for what seems like forever by putting all jars, cans, whatever into tupperware containers and keeping them in the fridge on the bottom shelf. The less air in each container-the better, so I sometimes add a bit of thinner, or whatever is called for, and pour into a new smaller container. Joe Hinds ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: Ray Cockram Subject: Re: Feline Bay Dear John-the-EXTREME-Sadist, I would love to get the PE for the IJN 25mm clips. What is the order code please. Ray (the tounge in cheek) Masochist. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From: John Snyder Subject: Re: keeping life of ColourCoats Hi John, >> What lifetime should be expected from a ColourCoat before the paint deteriorates: a. after the tin is opened? b. before the tin is opened? << Quite a long time. I've got some that was opened 2-1/2 years ago that is still fine, and I've got Humbrols that I opened 8 - 10 years ago that are still useable. >> Are there any hints for prolonging this life, other than the obvious one of resealing open tins properly? Is there an optimum temperature at which to store them (like, do I put them in the wine cellar)? << I just make sure the sealing surfaces of the tin and lid are as clean as possible, and ensure the best seal I can. Our manufacturer says optimum storage temperatures are from 40F to 80F, with changes gradual. >> If a particular colour has already started to deteriorate, are there any ways to bring it back together, e.g. with thinner? << You can try, but adding thinner will change the chemical makeup of the paint, and could shorten the life of the tin. >> Are any other brands particular bad or particularly good for longevity? << As I noted, I've still got old Humbrol--and Floquil--that is useable. Now, off to Telford.... Best, John Snyder The Token Yank White Ensign Models http://WhiteEnsignModels.com for secure online ordering. For the latest news from WEM, Click Here: http://www.whiteensignmodels.com/brochure/whats_new1.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume