Subject: SMML VOL 2366 Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2003 02:56:11 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http://sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1: USS Missouri Color Help 2: Re: Battle of Feline Bay 3: to: the portland rustbucket 4: Re: the battle of feline bay 5: 1/72 Hunley Instructions 6: Minesweepers - Intervals between ships while sweeping? 7: Help With Guns 8: 1/200 YAMATO 9: Re: ASDIC blind Time -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1: NOW BACK IN STOCK! OZMOD'S 1/48 CARIBOU! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: David Garrett Subject: USS Missouri Color Help I have scanned the archives and Snyder's Ship Camoflage site but haven't been able to come up with a clear interpretation of the USS Missouri's colors ca. 1945. Can anyone convert the following into Testor or Model Master colors (or the correct ratio thereof) for Haze Gray, Deck Blue, Navy Blue, Ocean Gray? I am undecided whether to do my model in MS 32/22 or MS 22, so am asking about Ocean Gray just in case I go with the former. Thanks in advance. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From: "Amy" Subject: Re: Battle of Feline Bay I keep my ship yard in the box when I'm not working on it for this exact reason. My husband keeps his tanks out on his work bench, and invariably, there are parts missing every morning. As for the photoetch....I put mine on as I go along. I don't cut the piece off until I'm ready for it, and I paint the entire part at once. i.e. photoetch ladders on the gun turrets, I paint the whole turret and gun after the photoetch is on. I have no idea if this is the best way or not, as I am still working on my first large ship. (I did a small model first just to get my hands wet, and didn't do any detailing on it. Decided 1/700 was not the scale for me though!) Hope this helps. Amy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From: "Amy" Subject: to: the portland rustbucket hey don...yes, you can help me. my husband and i have found 3 hobby shops in the area. ultimate hobbies at jantzen beach, which why/how it is still in business i'm not sure, bridgetown on sandy boulevard, which seems pretty good actually, and a-train here in vancouver, which is ok. any others? amy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From: "Amy" Subject: Re: the battle of feline bay >> They move so damm quietly you're not aware of them until the foul deed has been committed. << ahhhhhhhhhh!!! that is where id tags on the collar come in. we adopted our cats, so they have a tag from the shelter plus the rabies tag. the make noise!!!! it's a wonderful tool, and not as annoying as a bell :) our youngest kitten is trying to "help" daddy with his tanks as I type. Maybe today I'll get my shipyard out. It's been a few months since I've had time to work on her. Amy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From: "Ed" Subject: 1/72 Hunley Instructions Hello all, Does anyone have a set of instructions for the 1/72 'C.S.S. Hunley' resin kit by Cottage Industries? Mine have gone AWOL (and I am thinking its that darn Cat!) I would be happy to pay for any copying fees and postage in U.S. Dollars or beer. Thanks in advance. Ed Wandall ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From: "Robert Mosher" Subject: Minesweepers - Intervals between ships while sweeping? This is a question that has intrigued me for a while and comes up because of an interest in miniature naval wargaming. I started buying models in the small scales used for naval wargaming several years ago and now that I have changed lifestyle and no longer travel, I want to get back into this. I bought a few WWII Royal Navy minesweepers thinking that they would provide some more varied and interesting scenarios, but wanted to try and base them so that when the bases of the minesweepers touched they would accurately depict a line of minesweepers clearing a channel through a large minefield or as they might have a done in sweeping ahead of a large formation of ships. However, despite some success at picking up source material on minesweeping I still have not found any source that would answer the question: was there a standard interval of distance between minesweepers when they operated together to clear a large field or a channel through a large field? So, can anyone here tell me whether there was a standard interval - or not? Tell me what a standard interval would have been? Or steer me in the direction of a source? Looking forward to your replies. Robert A. Mosher ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From: Joe Hinds Subject: Help With Guns Hey Everybody, I have two 1/72 kit models of the Soviet, TUPOLEV G-5, torpedo boat and I need Guns. The model is rough any any standards. (They could have sent me two lumps of plastic and I could have carved my own). The 12.7mm guns that come with the kit are made from a really soft 'white metal'. They are actually useless and beyond ugly.. The guns sent are beyond my ability to repair. I'm not down on Russians or trying to belittle their fledging model industry. These are more then terrible! They also only sent one gun when the kit and cover art, and kit directions call for, TWO! I need FOUR ,1/72 scale, guns of approximately .50 caliber. Single barrel. Anybody who can help is my friend for life. I will trade a few of my torpedo boat prints or send money. I need these for a display at my art show at The Hampton Roads Naval Museum in March of 2004. Not exactly a long lead time. Thank you all for even reading this. Joe Hinds ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From: "DUCKMAN" Subject: 1/200 YAMATO HOWDY ALL, NAVAL BASE OUT OF NEW YORK, USA, SHOWS this kit. hope this helps, DAVID IN DIXIE ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From: "John Durham" Subject: Re: ASDIC blind Time A contact(Target)is lost(blind time) when the ASDIC the receiving equipment can not cope with ship generated noise. Equipment employing thermeonic valves(tubes) has a poor signal to noise ratio as the equipment generates self noise(electronic noise),this limits the amplification factor as the self generated noise is also amplified. The echo will also be lost by the noise generated by ship noise(propellor cavitation etc).So when a vessel attacks by overtaking a target,speed,and therefore noise is increased.The ASDIC operator can no longer separate the echo from the noise nor can the equipment due to the poor signal to noise ratio.The tactics employed by Captain Walker RN to use two vessels to detect,but stand off, and a further vessel(s) to attack at speed. ASDIC blind,but remaining on target by the targets location passed via ship to ship radio from the stand off vessels.This mitigated to an extent the problem of blind time. The advent of foreward throwing mortars such as squid and all around mortars such as limbo increased the vessels reach across the blind range. The breakthrough which greatly improved the signal to noise ratio was the "Transistor" a cool quiet amplifier(no more noisy thermeonic valves) so equipment amplification and therefore detection range is increased.........then came.....Integrated cicuits..... Confused? So am I! The subject of A/S warefare is vast and fascinating. Employed as a technician rather than as an operator aboard type 15 frigates, I had to learn from the ASDIC team leaders and operators. Also deployed on the occasional submarine day exercise, I did see a little of their methods to avoid detection but that's another story. regards to you all and especially to SMML JED ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From: Greg Anderson Subject: NOW BACK IN STOCK! OZMOD'S 1/48 CARIBOU! OzMods has done a new run of its ever popular 1/48 DHC-4 Caribou. These will be sold on a first-come basis ... so order your kits now, stocks are definitely limited! When originally released, this kit set new standards as one of the world's most comprehensive 'multi-media' aircraft construction kits. 18 major vacform components (by Falcon of New Zealand), 95 superb injected resin and 16 cast metal parts, 11 different RAAF (including 38 squadron) and US army decal/paint scheme options. Complete assembly guides and instructions, photo references, general information, paint and decal scheme plans and three-view drawings. Kit features detailed cockpit and flight deck, wheel wells, plus detail parts for flap hinge covers, aerials, etc Price: Aus$129.80 (+ Aus$20 registered insured postage within Australia; Aus$40 insured air post overseas). Order now! Phone or E-mail your order - Payment by Visa, Bankcard, Mastercard, Amex, Diners, Eurocard - Or post your order with Cheque or Money Order. OZMODS PRODUCTS ARE AVAILABLE FROM: AUSTRALIA: Hobbyco, Voglers Ipswich, Victorian Hobby Centre, Sandle Hobbies, Magpie Models, Viking Models, Red Roo Models, Hawkeye Models, High Planes, Gosford Hobbies, Mundaring Hobbies, Modelmania, John's Hobbies, Model Sports. USA: North American Hobbies, AAA Hobbies, Meteor Productions. CANADA: Nostalgic Plastic, J.M. Perreault. JAPAN: First Air International. ENGLAND: Hannants, Aeroclub, The Aviation Hobby Shop, White Ensign Models. GERMANY: Wolfgang Hora. FINLAND: Martti Kuivalainen. CZECH REPUBLIC: LF Models. OZMODS SCALE MODELS Proprietor: Greg Anderson Web Site: www.ozmods-kits.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at: http://smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at: http://apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume