Subject: SMML VOL 2485 Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2004 01:46:45 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http//sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1 Re Thin wires 2 Re 1/72 Fleetsubs 3 Naval blockade of Charleston 4 A review of Chesneau's "KGV Battleships" and "German Pocket Battleships;" Slipping into the Digital Imaging Abyss 5 Tamiya Pre-Built 6 Hecker and Goros 1/72 U-Boat crew figures 7 Re Tamiya Pre-Built 8 Re Fleet submarine 9 ..thin wires -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1 Ships up for auction onEbay 2 For Sale ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From Subject Re Thin wires I have had a lot of success using fuse wire from the UK. Available in 5amp (the thinnest) 10amp and 15amp. For thinner wire, as has been suggested, coils from small electric motors. To straighten stretch slightly with two pairs of pliers. Michael London ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From CapnAgee@aol.com Subject Re 1/72 Fleetsubs Regarding 1/72 Fleetsubs, I don't think you'll see any injection plastic kits because at that scale, they come out at 51 7/8 inches in length! However, Lee Upshaw has a 1/72 Fleetboat hull in fiberglass that Rusty White used to build his excellent model in a Steel Navy feature. Check Lee's Scale Shipyard site at www.scaleshipyard.com. Ray Agee Tempe, Az ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From THEGAVEL@aol.com Subject Naval blockade of Charleston It is my understanding that it was accepted international law that if a blockade was broken then the port was open to neutral shipping for a thirty day period. While the south made several claims during the war that a port's blockade had been broken, the north rejected those claims and no neutral nation took action in response. Further, it is my understanding that in order to break a blockade the blockading ships must be driven off either by inclement weather or enemy action. Of the claims that I've seen most seem to be wishful thinking on the part of the south as while the close blockade may have been broken, blockading forces further out to sea remained in place. The statistics on blockade running are interesting, many ships avoided the blockading forces but few did so for more than a couple of voyages. The profit was so great it paid for ship loss and a business grew up in the Bahamas with a fleet of fast ships with small coal bunkers and large cargo spaces. Slipping through the blockade did not break it, the issue was forces available to enforce one thus the 90 day gunboats, ferries, converted merchantmen that were dubbed the "soapbox navy" early in the war before the monitors, double enders, and other purpose built ships came on line. John Gavel ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From Douglas Simpkin Subject A review of Chesneau's "KGV Battleships" and "German Pocket Battleships;" Slipping into the Digital Imaging Abyss Roger Chesneau is an author of no small repute. An expert on military equipment, both naval and aeronautical, his works include the now-classic “Aircraft Carriers of the World” (1984) as well as numerous AEROGUIDE descriptions of post-WWII aircraft. It was therefore with great anticipation that I awaited the publication of the first two offerings of his “Ship Craft” series of monographs. My opinions of Chesneau’s “KGV Class Battleships” and “German Pocket Battleships” are, unfortunately, quite mixed. These 64 page, large format (A4 page size) soft-cover offerings from Chatham Publishing are designed especially for modelers. (Prices for new copies seen through www.bookfinder.com vary from US$14 to US$35.) The first third of the books cover the design and history of their subjects, with the final 10-15 pages devoted to their “Appearance” during their careers, both from modifications to equipment and camouflage. Chesneau’s text is lucid, lively, and concise. There are pages of color profiles (2 for the KGV battleships, 6 for the various Panzerschiff vessels), and 4 to 6 pages of 1700 scale line drawings with details. These are very well done. A full page of References include sources for plans, Web sites, and videos, as well as the usual books. Where these “Ship Craft” books depart from other histories, and what makes them particularly attractive to modelers, are the 10 page “Model Products” and 20 page “Modelers Showcase” sections. The “Products” chapter reviews the commercial styrene (but no resin) kits available over the full range of scales, with photos of the kit boxes and unfinished kit parts, with Chesneau’s considered opinions of each. Available aftermarket photoetch and resin detail parts are also reviewed. The “Modeler’s Showcase” is inspiring, but also fully illustrates the near-fatal flaw in these books. In full color, various modeler’s scratch- and kit-built efforts are shown at a wide range of scales. But, on closer inspection, one realizes that nearly every one of these photos is a digital imaging nightmare. Reviewing the black and white photos elsewhere in the book shows that these historic photographs have also been digitally scanned and printed, and show the same problems of “pixelation” and image interpolation. This ruins the resolution in the images. No rigging lines are visible on any b/w images. The digital images also show the annoying Moire interference patterns seen when the pixel size is too large to show repetitive small details in the object (e.g. the deck planking on any of the models, or the hull port holes in the photos on the back cover of the Pocket Battleship book). These b/w photos are the usual, widely-reproduced images, so comparing them to their previous presentations in older publications shows how poorly they have been reproduced here. This is not progress; this is shameful. I am extremely disappointed with the publisher and printer for the presentation of the photographs in these first two “Ship Craft” series books. Indeed, with Squadron/Signal Publication’s “In Action” series having also slipped into this digital imaging abyss, things appear quite bleak for the book-buying modeling community. Roger Chesneau’s expert text, the skill of the contributing modelers/artisans, and the accuracy of the color camouflage profiles and line drawings is very greatly diminished by the horrid photographs. Lets hope that the publishers get the message that we will not stand for such poor images in our modeling books. Let us also hope that the four further monographs planned for this "Ship Craft" series live up to the potential shown here. Doug ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From Peter Subject Tamiya Pre-Built I have had a chance to inspect the Tamiya pre-built Bismark up close, but not the Yamamoto. The work is OK but nothing too wonderful. I don't think most of the folks who enjoy this list are Tamiya's target market for these pre-built kits, but here is my impression. The work is good-- no obvious mistakes but one (see below), no beginner's glue marks or mismasking spots. The colors are all nicely even and airbrushed. The PE is limited to mostly outer railings without the extra detail work that separate good from great in much of the work we see online by real ship guys. The biggest glaring error is that the big seams between the pieces that make up the deck are not filled. To most serious modelers, this would be a showstopper, especially given the price. That said, I don't think Tamiya is trying to sell this to most of us. The market I would guess are folks who are not interested in the time it takes to create a decent model but want something big on the shelf. The price is much higher than buying the kit, but still lower than most custom builders would charge. I live in Japan and the shop guy I spoke with (at Yellow Submarine in Akihabara for those who know the place) said he has sold a fair number of the Bismark, mostly to older men who say they don't have the time to build one of their own. He thinks the work is done in China. For beginners who are still learning how to use PE, fill (most!) seams and handle an airbrush, the pre-built models may represent something better than what they have on the shelf. Like with die cast stuff, there is a large market out there for people who want decent finished models but do not have the time or the skill to create them. Maybe after a few Tamiya pre-builts they will start commissioning some us to build them a real museum piece! Peter ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From "Kerry L. Jang" Subject Hecker and Goros 1/72 U-Boat crew figures Hi All, This weekend I picked up the new Revell U-Boat. It was an inpulsive purchase as I found it at quite a discount. Now that I have the thing, I guess I am committed to building it and I think it really needs a crew. Does anyone know where I can purchase the three sets of Hecker and Goros 1/72 U-Boat crew figures that I have seen reviewed on various sites (none say where to get 'em!). Thanks! Kerry Vancouver, BC ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From "Ed" Subject Re Tamiya Pre-Built I agree with Ron on this. If you are contemplating getting the 'Pre-built' take a few minutes to do the math. 1/350 Bismark Kit from you local hobby shop $65.00 Paint and Photoetch (that are dead spot on) from WEM $40 (may be less) The enjoyment and satisfaction of putting together an outstanding model? Priceless Give it a shot. This mailing list is full of fantastic modelers who have always been very forthcoming with instructive advice and ideas. Go for it, and give us a call when you need a hand. Ed Wandall ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From Ives100@aol.com Subject Re Fleet submarine >> I was just looking at Fine Scale Modeler may 2004. It has a model review on Revells VIIC U-boat.. Looks like a nice kit ...Any hints out there of anyone doing an Injection-molded US fleet sub any time soon?? .. Are there any kits of a fleetboat in 1/72 scale? << Highly doubtful in that scale, but one can only hope. A Fleet submarine in 172 scale would be almost 52 inches in length, as US Fleet subs were much larger than German Type VIIs. The only fleet submarines in that scale are fiberglass hulls that are used for R/C submarines. Look at big $$, a lot of aftermarket parts and much scratchbuilding with these kits. Actually, there were 135 scale hulls at one point, leading to working models almost 10 feet in length. There is a company called (no joke!) BaD Ship Models that makes a fleet submarine kit in 196 scale. These are wood plank on frame kits. There may be some new high quality resin kits of fleet submarines in the future, but these would not be the very large 172 scale, more like 1192 scale (about the same as the Revell Lionfish). One can considerably upgrade the Lionfish kit with the Nautilus Gato (3 kits of different Gato configurations) and Balao resin conning tower upgrades. Tom ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From "donald p morgan" Subject ..thin wires I've been buying thin wire in a variety of diameters from my local hobby shop for years. The stuff I buy comes in packets, several 12 inch long pieces per packet, and it is offered by Detail Associates, Box 5357, San Luis Obispo, CA 93403. This is brass and it is offered to simulate piping on model railroad locomotives and can be had in diameters from .0625 inch down to .005 inch. By the way, I usually cut it with a pair of fingernail clippers. If you are looking for something stiffer, check out your local music store. I have found many uses for steel guitar strings which can be had in many small diameters. My favorite is .005 inch. These come coiled up in a small plastic envelope and may need to be straightened, but this should be no problem as there is a loop at one end and a small brass fitting at the other. Hanging a small weight should do the trick but be careful not to overstress the wire. It won't take much weight. I've never straightened one as my models are 1/1200 scale, and I seldom need to cut off a piece more than 3/4 inch in length. I've often used this wire for rigging airplane models in 1/72 scale. If your hands are steady enough, it can be inserted between the wings of a biplane with tweezers, held in place with Elmer's Glue which can be applied as a drop on the wire end, and faired using a damp, small diameter paint brush. Good luck and have fun!!! Don Morgan San Antonio, TX ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From Mark McKellar Subject Ships up for auction onEbay Hi folks, I have a number of ships up for auction on ebay. Mostly fun of the mill stuff but you never know who needs what http//cgi6.ebay.com/ws/ eBayISAPI.dll?ViewSellersOtherItems&userid=shipguy59&include=0&since=-1&sort=3&rows=50 If you have any questions, please drop me a note. Mark Boston ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From "John Durham" Subject For Sale I have a 1/100 Heller kit No 897 A plastic kit of H.M.S.Victory Which is offerred for sale to a keen SMML subscriber. The kit is unstarted and complete with 20 page Instruction book. The carton condition reflects the age of the kit. Offers in the region of £75 plus postage,insurance and secure packaging. This is a genuine offer ,m interests have changed towards wood modelling Please reply to john.e-durham@ntlworld.com regards to all smellies ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at http//smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at http//apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume