Subject: SMML VOL 2497 Date: Wed, 05 May 2004 00:23:08 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http//sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1 Re NIMITZ CD Volume One 2 Re 1.700 BISMARCK AND TIRPITZ kits.....from PANDA DML 3 Re NIMITZ CVN variants CD 4 Re Enterprise hanger deck 5 Anatomy Of USS Intrepid 6 Need Help? Styrofoam hull 7 styrofoam 8 Soviet deck red paint -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1 Re Modern Soviet/Russian Navy red color 2 Unique collection of 21st century naval aircraft on ebay ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From Ray Bean Subject Re NIMITZ CD Volume One >> May I impose upon to PLEASE put me down of the set of your CDs? Let me know how much so I can get the money out to you. Bless you heart!! Finally ONE source for accurate Nimitz carriers info. << Thank you for your blessings, these days I need all the help I can get. I am testing the waters with this offering NEVER ever done this before....and am only now setting aside the images for Volume One. (100 images). Its looking like $19.95 each USD, $23.00 or so Canadian, but dont quote me on that...... send no money at this time untill I have boxfulls to sell. RD Bean in Canada ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From Ray Bean Subject Re 1.700 BISMARCK AND TIRPITZ kits.....from PANDA DML Someone was asking about the new kits of BISMARCK and TIRPITZ from Trumpeter. ......dont know anything about those kits, but I have seen the new test shots of both kits from PANDA DML DRAGON models....... that is a definite future release in waterlined with bottom hull option. TPTz has different sprues with separate AA moldings not on BSK kit. These ARE NOT reworks of the horrid Aoshima kits. New toolings. And no, I have not been informed of the release dates, but they will be this year. I am suggesting hard they look at SCHARN and GNEISEN very soon, with Atlantic bows......no word back on that. RD Bean ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From NAVYDAZE@aol.com Subject Re NIMITZ CVN variants CD I have seen some of Ray's photos and they are awesome!! The detail and close-ups are "to be seen to be appreciated". Whatever price Ray sells them for will be a bargain to the modeler!! Mike Donegan Navydaze http//www.navydaze.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From PSmith6328@aol.com Subject Re Enterprise hanger deck Hi, Can anybody tell me what colour to paint the hanger deck floor and the other interior colours for the hanger deck. The kit I am making is the Tamiya 1/350. Thanks Phill Smith ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From Ned Barnett Subject Anatomy Of USS Intrepid I recently received from the USNI Press a review copy of noted naval historian John Roberts' Anatomy Of The Ship series on the USS Intrepid, the Essex-class carrier now serving as a museum in NYC Harbor. The book, originally published about 22 years ago, holds up remarkably well. It has tight but useful text, great photos, and - of course - the kinds of drawing-after-drawing-after-drawing of the ship, it's details and fittings, etc., that you've come to expect from the AOTS series. This AOTS book includes a complete description of this early (CV-11) Essex-class fleet carrier, an up-scale/modernized version of the earlier Yorktown class carriers (which also included Hornet and Enterprise). The photo section focuses on Intrepid, but includes shots of other Essex carriers. Several photos show the Intrepid's deck overloaded with aircraft being transported to the Pacific Theater, which would make a great basis for a display model (if you don't mind scratch-building P-61 Black Widows, PV-2 Harpoons and other land-based aircraft seldom seen on aircraft carriers. Camoflage is important for these mid/late war carriers, and the Intrepid's dazzle scheme is well-presented (along with camouflage of the F6F Hellcat. Of course, the heart and soul of the AOTS books are the drawings - these in 1/350th scale, ideal for use with the new 1/350th Essex class kits now out on the market. These are nothing short of superb. The cover says "complete with 1/350th Scale fold-out plan" and I looked several times trying to find this fold-out in the reprint ... then it hit me. The inner side of the dust jacket IS the "fold-out plan" - a brilliant printing solution, and something that makes this plan even easier to use than if it had been bound into the book. I've been fortunate to spend a lot of time on the USS Hornet (CV-12), now a museum ship in San Francisco Bay (at Alameda). Though modernized, she's still very much an Essex, and my familiarity with the class convinces me even more than might otherwise be the case that this book is a "must" for ship modelers or WW-II Naval historians. The book is available from Amazon for $27.95 (new) and about three dollars less (used). ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From "Rod Dauteuil" Subject Need Help? Styrofoam hull Tim, A few years back I made a 1/144 scale USS Hornet CV8 carrier and used the extruded styrofoam for the hull. This is the styrofoam everybody on the list has been talking about. The one I bought was made by Owens Corning, was pink (of course), and measured 2 inches thick by 8 feet long by about 2-1/2 feet wide. I made my model a waterline model. My first step was drawing out the "footprint" of the ship at the waterline on 1/4 inch lauan, then cutting it out and sanding to the final shape. Lauan has a tendency to splinter, which I learned the hard way. Use rawhide gloves of you do this. I used wood for a footprint because if the model were handled it would have more strength than just the foam. Anyway, I laminated the sheets together using Liquid Nails which is better than white glue. White glue takes forever to dry toward the inside of the sandwich. Liquid Nails is far superior and if you use it, buy the one you use in a caulking gun--Much more product for the price. In addition to the lauan footprint I also laminated a piece of 1/3 pine down the center to keep the hull from bowing fore and aft. After the styrofoam is laminated to the waterline footprint and everything is dry, I marked the centerlines and beam all around so I could use the centerline as a reference datum and measure everything off of that. I measured the decks and transferred those dimensions to the styrofoam. Same for all parts of the hull that rise above the hangar deck. Once all my dimensions were set I was ready to start shaping. That's where the fun begins. I bought a thin serrated knife to do all the cutting and shaving. It makes quite a mess because you will have all the chunks of foam plus all shavings and dust (from the serrations--If you use a straight blade it shouldn't make as much dust). Be prepared to spend a lot of time to get the contour of the hull right. The good thing about the extruded styrofoam is it can be sanded without breaking apart. I used coarse sandpaper to shape and contour the hull, followed by some medium grade grit. I didn't sand it too fine, because I glazed it after. For my initial glaze I used wood putty. It adheres to the styrofoam just fine. I used the powder, mix-it-yourself type rather than pre-mixed. This is because I wanted to mix it to the consistency I chose. For the initial glazing I made the putty about the consistency of peanut butter. Then that was sanded with coarse paper, gradually working to a fine paper. A second glazing of soupy putty covered most imperfections. This is where I screwed up. I used auto body filler for some areas to give it a nice, smooth finish. Big mistake. The fumes from the filler made their way under the putty and actually melted the styrofoam underneath. I didn't know this until I started sanding and broke through some layers of glazing. I caught on to what was happening and went seeking melted spots. I was actually breaking through the filler to get to the cavity underneath. I filled those with wood putty and never used auto body filler again. It sanded very smooth, and in the end I gave it a real soupy glaze painted on with a brush. Then lots and lots of sanding after the whole hull was dry (about a week or so later.) The rest of the model was built using regular wood, styrene, brass, and all kinds of odds and ends. The deck was also made from 1/4 inch lauan, laminated the Northeastern wood deck with rubber cement. I found a lot of parts from the model RR catalog. Altogether the model came out OK, although as I became more educated on the real Hornet, I found a lot of discrepancies on mine. The model took me about a year and a half to complete, and I estimate had a raw material cost of about $1,000.00. After completing it I took some time off and built regular models, but then started planning a CVN65 USS Enterprise carrier in 1/144 scale. I have the hull all carved and ready for some sanding, but haven't worked on it for some time. The flight deck is also cut out and they sit in my basement. I will attack this project sometime in the future as it really does sap all your time and money. Sorry to go on so long about this but I have "been there and done that" as they say. Rod ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From "Chris Christenson" Subject styrofoam A couple of notes on styrofoam that I've gleaned from 20 years managing a lumber yard/home center. You definitely want to stay away from the beaded product as Ned Barnett advised, it's also a real mess when you try to cut it cuz the beads fly everywhere. Be careful with adhesives Liquid Nails or similar construction adhesives work well but you must stick the pieces together and then pull them apart a little bit to vent off the solvents otherwise the adhesive will melt the styrofoam. Model planes hold together very well with the yellow aliphatic resin glues gluing balsa to styrofoam. If you are willing to come to my store in Burwell Nebraska I would be more than happy to help! Good luck with the project! Chris Christenson Ord Nebraska ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From "Robert Lockie" Subject Soviet deck red paint Augustin I am sure the WEM chaps will respond on this one but such a paint exists in the WEM Colourcoats range as item M13. In the past (when my projects reached the paint stage) I have used an old Humbrol railway colour whose name escapes me but WEM’s is probably rather more accurately matched. Robert Lockie Swindon UK ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From John Snyder Subject Re Modern Soviet/Russian Navy red color Hi Agustin, We have that color accurately matched in our Colourcoats enamels M13, Modern Russian Deck Red. Best, John Snyder The Token Yank White Ensign Models http//WhiteEnsignModels.com for secure online ordering. For the latest news from WEM, Click Here http//www.whiteensignmodels.com/brochure/whats_new1.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From Mark McKellar Subject Unique collection of 21st century naval aircraft on ebay 1/700 JAG Osprey, seahawk & Advanced Tactical fighters This aircraft set is from the JAG CVX carrier kit. I built mine without photo etch or aircraft so I don't need these. http//cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3191159110&category=2590&sspagename=STRK%3AMESSE%3AIT&rd=1 Email me with any questions. If you bid and win, I'll forgo shipping cost for SMMlies. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at http//smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at http//apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume