Subject: SMML VOL 2519 Date: Mon, 31 May 2004 00:07:15 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http//sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1 Dreadnought 2 Re TRIP TO CALIFORNIA 3 Smart Ship Painting 4 Re Scratchbuild in plastic from card model template 5 Re Scratchbuild in plastic from card model template 6 Re Chicago, Ill. and a putative aircraft carrier 7 Noah's Ark 8 Re Scratchbuild in plastic from card model template 9 Re Ark (as in Noah) 10 Noah's ark 11 Re Scratchbuild in plastic from card model template 12 Re Ark (as in Noah) 13 Re Scratchbuild in plastic from card model template 14 Re Ark Model 15 Re Monitor/Merrimac 16 Re Monitor/Merrimac 17 Ark (as in Noah) 18 Re Ark (as in Noah) 19 Plastic Gears source? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From Masashi Ito Subject Dreadnought Hi, everyone. I have seen an article written in Japanese arguing that although the Dreadnought was a revolution, making the other battleships obsolete, it also meant that the other battleships of the Royal Navy were made obsolete, too and therefore that other powers (especially Germany) got (or perceived) a better chance to catch up with Great Britain in Naval arms races. Does anyone know an article or a book written in English making a similar argument? I would like, if any, an English reference. Thank you in advance, Masashi ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From "Paul & Renee Jacobs" <1250man@comcast.net> Subject Re TRIP TO CALIFORNIA Darren You plan to be in Long Beach on the 11th AND SF the same day!? You driving or flying? If the latter, you got a LOT of drivin' to do. We're talking near 600 miles and some of this will be in heavy traffic. Then leave SF on the 14th and arrive in Portland on the 15th and Victoria on the 16!? Holy cow! You won't be arriving in Portland. You'll be driving thru at about 80 mph. You plan to sleep at all? Sounds like a race to me. Are you one of those folks from the east coast who thinks that since L.A. and S.F. are in the same state they're only two hours apart? I suggest that you rearrange your itinerary or you're gonna need a vacation when you finish this one. By the way, if you find time to slow down and enjoy the scenery I recommend the air museum in Tillamook OR., along the coast. Lot's of beautiful, real antique aircraft. Paul (in San Jose CA). P.S. Bring shorts and a lot of sunscreen cause it it'll be HOT in the southern parts. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From George Colleen Hargreaves Subject Smart Ship Painting Hi, This is a modification of something I learned to paint red lines on white Federation star ships. (hmm the ministry denies any possible confession.) It works great for water lines. 1. Paint the lower colour. 2. Paint the upper colour masking the lower colour 3. Place thinly cut masking tape for the water line, thin so that the tape can follow the hull contours.. 4. Lightly brush the lower colour on to the lower masking tape and lightly brush a layer of the upper colour on to the upper masking tape. 5. Allow to dry. 6. Paint the waterline colour. Remove tape and voile; a perfect waterline. By painting over the waterline masking tape with the colour below it, any seepage is sealed with the same colour and is invisible. When you paint the waterline colour all the seepage cracks are filled so you end up with a clean straight line. Cheers, George Hargreaves ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From PolTexCW@aol.com Subject Re Scratchbuild in plastic from card model template >> Specifically I'd like to discuss Fixing templates to plastic stock Selecting appropriate plastic card thickness Removing templates from trimmed plastic To bend or to cut? << I affix the templates to the plastic with rubber cement. After cutting, simply peel the template off. If any cement remains on the plastic, it is easily rubbed off. John Biskupski ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From lars.scharff@stud.uni-muenchen.de Subject Re Scratchbuild in plastic from card model template Hi Adrian, I used card kits by JSC to scratch build the German light cruiser Königsberg and some C-Class and D-class cruisers. I use Tesa Stick or Prit Stick to fix the paper template on the plastic. It is possible to remove the template without any problems. For the frames and the waterline 1 mm plastic is necessary, better also for the main deck. The hull sides and all part of superstructure are made from 0,5 mm plastic. Parts of the hull, which more complicated forms, e.g. the bow of some old French armoured cruiser, are made from solid block, which could be produced by cluing multiple plastic sheets together. I use a pair of scissors to cut the plastic. For the stack and the solid railings I use paper. I still thinking about better techniques to scratch build the boats and the barrels of large calibre guns. Best regards Lars Scharff ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From Roland Mar Subject Re Chicago, Ill. and a putative aircraft carrier Some weeks ago I noted on SMML that I would be visiting Chicago this fall and asked for any hobby shops of note. The silence of the response was deafening. So be it. I now need to check on something else there. I have a Captain who flat insists that a couple of years ago, he was in Chicago and boarded an aircraft carrier tied up as a museum ship. I can find no mention anywhere of a CV of any variety moored at Chicago [at least not since the paddle wheel flat-tops SABLE and WOLVERINE were training pilots on the Great Lakes]. I admit to more than passing skepticism as to how even an older CV would get there, and wonder what my boss was consuming on that trip. However, does anyone know of any such museum vessel that could be visited? Thanks, Roland Mar ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From Kelvin Mok Subject Noah's Ark >> Anyway, my question. I'm looking for additional references (online preferable, but books are also possible, budget-permitting, and so are video documentaries, etc.). Anybody know of new and particularly reputable research on Noah's Ark? << I believe Israel had a zoo project where they tried to populate it with all the animals of Noah's time and land. Since the Ark was meant to conserve God's animals two by two your project should take this into consideration. In particular how to house them, keep them fed and keep the carnivores from eating the others. There will also be that very important materials handling problem as to where to dump the load of crap. There was no mention of any propulsive mechanisms (oars, sails, poles) in the Ark so the accommodations will be the principal interior details to reproduce in the model. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From "Tim Perry" Subject Re Scratchbuild in plastic from card model template I've been working on a related project, but rather than using the paper/card parts and glueing them to the plastic sheet, I've been printing directly onto the plastic sheet. The parts I have done have been of my own design, but if you can scan your paper original, I see no reason why this process would not work for you as well. You would probably have to revise the scanned image to reduce it to outlines, ie no areas of solid colour, as the ink (inkjet, NOT laser!!) tends to blob together in larger quantities. You can see more details of how I did this on my site www.kipperboxes.co.uk , in the section on scratchbuilding an LCT4 landing craft. Hope this helps, it works for me! Tim Perry wunwinglow www.tjpgraphics.com for digital aviation modelling www.kipperboxes.co.uk for 1200 Warship models ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From "keith" Subject Re Ark (as in Noah) Hi SMMLies, Noah's Ark, You can start by looking in the Bible, Genesis 615. here you'll find the dimensions of 300cubits X 50 X 30 and I believe a cubit is 18" as you suggested it was. There you have it 450' X 75' X 45' pretty close to the size of an APA. You can also find a big and beautiful 172 model a man built in a magazine called "Creation". This thing is a cut-away, what a piece of work it is. I will try to locate the magazine I have and let you know more about it when I find it, Keith ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From "Robert Lockie" Subject Noah's ark Ned I’m not an expert on the subject but I did see an interesting British TV documentary recently in which it was pointed out that the quoted dims for the ark were wildly optimistic for a wooden ship and that the thing would have been far too big to be practical and would have broken up once launched. It certainly looked massive in the CGI reconstruction. I suspect that you can therefore apply significant artistic licence to your project. Wonder what camouflage measure he used…… Interestingly, they suggested that he probably built a rather smaller raft (presumably the lions had to hot bunk with the gazelles due to the smaller space) and that he was washed down the Euphrates (or the Tigris) into the Gulf and that he then ended up on what is now Bahrain. Robert Lockie Swindon UK ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From "Matthew Prager" Subject Re Scratchbuild in plastic from card model template Here are some techniques I've used in the past; Fixing templates to plastic stock I use a glue stick to paste the template to plastic sheet. It will easily come off with water when you've finished with the template. Selecting appropriate plastic card thickness Really depends on where you are using the part and if there are intricate bends or if it is a structural component. Keep a good selection of thicknesses available and select what you think will work. Removing templates from trimmed plastic see above To bend or to cut? Depends on the part you are making. If the plastic needs to be bent you can soften it in warm water first. Hope this helps. One other note - I generally use the finished piece as a master for a RTV mold, then cast it in resin. Resin is alot less fragile, and with a mold I can make several copies if I desire. Matt Prager ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From "Kevin W. Woodruff" Subject Re Ark (as in Noah) Ned You may want to try http//www.noahsarksearch.com/ Kevin W. Woodruff ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From Ernst-Bernhard Kayser Subject Re Scratchbuild in plastic from card model template Adrian check out this webpage http//www.ziewe.de/index1.htm . Click the blue "English"-button on the left for hints in English. For a well designed card model the thickness of the paper is factored into the design. Thus, if you do not want to run into problems with parts fit use plastic stock that is the same thickness as the card that the model is printed on. If you want to use thicker stock you have to make adjustments. For example if you want the decks be thicker you have to trimm the top of the internal formers down by the added thickness of the deck. German cardmodels most often come in scale 1/250, a scale that is not very popular elsewhere in the world. For some of the newer models printed by HMV or Passat Verlag dedicated photoeched parts are available. These PE sets can be more expensive than the actual kit itself. See Scheuer and Struever http//www.moduni.de/index.php ; to find PE search vor "tzsatz" and look for results having the word "Ätzsatz" in the title. "Standardätzsatz" is a set with standard/generic parts (railings, ladders, handwheels). Disadvantage both, PE sets and shipping, are expensive. For older models more generic PE can be found at Saemann Ätztechnik http//www.saemann-aetztechnik.de/ . Disadvantage they do not accept credit cards. If you need help dealing with German language or businesses post a distress signal addressed to me here on smml. Good luck with your project. Bernhard ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From "David Judy" Subject Re Ark Model Ned, Check this site for Ark research. Answersingenesis.org Search for "Ark model" In Christ Dave Judy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From "George Stein" Subject Re Monitor/Merrimac The same Osprey series has coverage of both ships. Also, just do a Google search. See also 1/600 metal ships at Thoroughbred Miniatures. Good Civil War naval links from that site. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 16) From "Paul R. Mitchell" Subject Re Monitor/Merrimac >> I've dug out the old Monitor/Merrimac Lifelike kit, and am thinking about completing them (I'm on a Civil War kick, and just finished/thoroughly enjoyed the Osprey book on Civil War Blockade Runners). Any decent references out there (on the originals, or kit reviews?). I imagine that the two ship kits are only vaguely like the originals (this IS "Lifelike" and very old, eh?), and while I'd like to accurize them a bit, I'm going more for "display" than "competition" on this - still, I'd like references if available << Ned, Here are a few references that may be useful Model Ship Builder magazine Ironclads CSS Virginia vs USS Monitor Cynthia Thompson No. 079, SEP OCT 1992, Page 41 Comments diorama based on Lindberg plastic kits. Seaways' Ships in Scale magazine TWO PLANS OF THE USS MONITOR OF 1862 FELDMAN, CLAYTON A. Vol. V, No. 2, MAR APR 1994, Page 72-73 Comments Plan review. Nautical Research Journal MONITOR, US ironclad book subject, 24197, 25153 half-model at MCNY, L2152 historical references, 4121, 680, 9111, 183, 7, 1933, 20133 , 20187, 27169, 3095, L1107 mentioned, 16103, 20154, 38121, 4068 model in NRG registry, 628 plans in NRG registry, 636 topic at 1983 NRG Conference, 29218 VIRGINIA, ex-MERRIMACK, Confederate ironclad description, history, 9110-111 historical references, 1933, 20133, 187, 25153, 27169 query, 20101 description, history, 9110-111 Cheers, Paul ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 17) From Mark McKellar Subject Ark (as in Noah) Does snyder & short have chips for this??? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 18) From Randy Ward Subject Re Ark (as in Noah) I built a cardstock model of the ark, back in the late 1970s. There were a number of books on the market (especially in Christian bookstores) about the searches. The design I settled on was essentially a barge with a long skylight along the top. It was boxy, with square corners. The important thing, as far as dimensions, is the ratio. I seem to recall that someone built a battleship to the same ratio and it turned out to be exceptionally stable. I'd suggest looking at ABE (www.abebooks.com) and doing a seach for "Noah" or "ark". I'm sure some of those classics will be there. I'd send photos of my model, but it's in storage with family 1200 miles away. As for videos, Sun Classics came out with an overly-dramatic movie called, "In Search of Noah's Ark" (or something like that), in the late 70s. I seem to recall that they interviewed someone who visited the ark when a boy, who worked with an artist to come up with a drawing. It was essentially a barge. Cap'n Randy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 19) From Kelvin Mok Subject Plastic Gears source? I have several boat models that I will like to motorize. I need to gear down the electric motor to bring the boats to scale speed. The boats are single, twin and triple screws. That means I have to make my own gear train to match the shaft positions and motor installation. The motor mount and gear train is easy enough to make from acrylic plastic. Is there a source for plastic gears. The gear-tooth size should match the motors' used in motorized cars. I haven't been able to get suitable gears from toy cars and I need lots of them anyway.. Modelling tips I have been getting plenty of scrap acrylic sheets from the retailer. Some of these are sizeable, such as a half inch thick by 34 " x 12 " panels. In two of the boat kits the wood was warped. I restored them by soaking the wood then weighing them down between two of these panels. The panels are absolutely flat and quite heavy, more than enough to flatten the wood parts. And they are waterproof! I also had a bunch of 1/16" acrylic square offcuts. These are excellent for making hull templates as the outlines can be scratched directly on the sheet, cut and sanded to the exact profile. The hull reference grid lines can also be scratched onto this template and you can stack them together to get a good eyeball check for accuracy. The acrylic material is strong and dimensionally rigid. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at http//smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at http//apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume