Subject: SMML VOL 2592 Date: Sat, 14 Aug 2004 00:46:39 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http//sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1 Re putty filler 2 Re Request for advice about plastic putty filler 3 Re Request for advice about plastic putty filler 4 Request for advice about plastic putty filler 5 Holes 6 Re Request for advice about plastic putty filler 7 Re Filler 8 Re Request for advice about plastic putty filler 9 Re Request for advice about plastic putty filler 10 HMAS Australia I plans -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1 New from Tom's Modelworks ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From BRADFORD CHAUCER Subject Re putty filler >> I'm modifying various styrene plastic kits into particular ships within a class and into other designs where the hull and other parts are > compatible. I know about real ships and ship designs but at modeling I am a novice. To create a continuous smooth surface, such as to join a scratch-built superstructure that is continuous with the hull, I have tried three methods, none with great success a. I lay down an excess of Squadron white putty filler and sand it smooth. Even after sanding the putty has pits, especially at the junction with the plastic. b. For a test I applied a gap-filler superglue over the dried putty. It warped both the plastic and the putty. c. I've attached .005-inch (.13mm) styrene sheets over the junction and sanded that smooth. This creates a bulge equal to 3" on a real ship, where I need a flat surface. It must be a common problem with resin kits, too. Has anyone a technique or material that works? If you know of web pages or books, point me. << Try 3M Acryl blue - an auto body filler. works much better than Squadron Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From John Biskupski Subject Re Request for advice about plastic putty filler For plastic, I take a bottle of solvent glue (the clear liguid in a bottle type) and dissolve pieces of sprue until I have a thick liquid. Then paint the joints with this, allow the solvent to evaporate. The solvent has fused the joint and the dissolved plastic has filled any imperfections. Simply sand flush and you should have a perfect joint. I have also used this method for resin, but it does not fuse the joint and care must be exercized when sanding because the resin is usually softer than the plastic. A, perhaps, better approach is to fill large gaps with putty and sand and use liquid paper to fill tiny gaps. John Biskupski ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From "Ouellette, Lawrence M" Subject Re Request for advice about plastic putty filler Mike Potter wrote >> To create a continuous smooth surface, such as to join a scratch-built superstructure that is continuous with the hull, I have tried three methods, none with great success >> b. For a test I applied a gap-filler superglue over the dried putty. It warped both the plastic and the putty. <<< Try using the gap-filling superglue instead of the putty. Let it harden a few minutes, then sand the joint smooth. Don't wait until the next day to sand it, as the glue will now be too hard. >> c. I've attached .005-inch (.13mm) styrene sheets over the junction and sanded that smooth. This creates a bulge equal to 3" on a real ship, where I need a flat surface. << How about putting the strip behind the joint, if possible. Then use the superglue to fill the gap. If there is no access behind the joint, then just use the glue to fill it. Aircraft modelers do both of the above all the time to fill seams when putting two halves of a fuselage together. I'm sure others will have some good advice. Larry Ouellette Volunteer, USS Salem (CA 139) United States Naval Shipbuilding Museum Quincy, Massachusetts, USA http//www.uss-salem.org/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From Rob & Rose Brown Subject Request for advice about plastic putty filler Hi Mike Try another thinner application of putty over the sanded area, and sand with a finer grain paper. Might take a few applications, but eventually all the bumps and dips can be filled in. I usually slap some paint over the gap to see where the problems are, the paint really shows up any imperfections in the sanded area. Cheers Rob ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From andrew jones Subject Holes Hi there These are what i use & have heard of with filling holes 1) I uses Testors putty & then wipe off the excess with a coton bud dipped in Nail polish remover.... sometimes it works..other times it takes a bit more off than needed..maybe i just have to let it set for a bit longer before wiping..also good if you have fine lines & you hate to sand for risk of sanding off more then the putty 2) you mis a bit of water with PVC glue to get a thick goop & you use that to fill in gaps. You can also use PVC glue straight, but when you fill in your gap after it dries, it does seem to shrink, so you only fill in part of teh gap & hence you have to keep going till you get it right 3) hard ware "no more gaps" ..i used to use but found that it needed a lot of cleaning, but is good to use as a base for real big gaps 4) I have also heard of people using Zap glue as a filler... you sand it just as it gets hard but not rock solid ... never tried it so not sure how good it is. Hope that gives you a few ideas..or maybe someone has some better ones regards Andrew ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From Gary Kingzett Subject Re Request for advice about plastic putty filler Mike, it seems to me that you might be trying to do too much, too soon. When cementing things together, use as little cement as you can, whether it is solvent based or CA. Then, make sure it is thoroughly hard. That would be at least 24 hours for solvent based liquids like Tenax, 2 or 3 days for a thicker glue like Testor's in the tube, overnight at least for CA, again, longer if it is thicker. Once, I used Testor's tube glue between the hull halves of an Airfix 1600 Iron Duke, the last solvent made its way out (through the plastic) 16 months after I assembled it. After the plastic is hard, you can use many different kinds of fillers. The key in all cases is to build up in layers, again making sure everything is hard underneath before you put on the next layer. Squadron putty shouldn't be any thicker than about 1/32". CA, less than that. 2 part epoxy fillers like Bondo can be a little thicker, but there you have to be careful, the setting reaction causes heat, which can warp or melt the underlying plastic. I find the most forgiving filler to be vinyl spackling compound, Borden's and DAP are two brands. The stuff is about the same hardness as styrene, sticks well, sands easily, is water based so it doesn't attack the plastic, and can be built up in layers. Before finish painting, put on any kind of primer, which serves the purpose of sealing the filler and blending the filler into the plastic surface. To reiterate, try to go slower and easier. You can always speed up after you have the feel. Gary ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From "David Judy" Subject Re Filler Mike, You didn't mention scale, but you might try using 2 part epoxy putty. Kneade together, then roll into a string, then place along the edge of the part....kinda like a gasket, then using your normal glue( CA or epoxy ) press down until the putty squeezes out, then trim with xacto blade, then smooth with damp Q-tip. In Christ Dave Judy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From Mike Settle Subject Re Request for advice about plastic putty filler Mike, I would suggest trying a two part automotive body filler such as Evercoat or Bondo. These come with a resin and a catalyst and usually mix to a ratio of 10 to 1, although you can vary that somewhat to increase or decrease working time. You can usually sand this stuff 15 to 30 minutes after you apply it. As an alternative, you can also use what is called spot putty, again, another automotive body repair product. This is more like the Squadron putty, but in a much larger tube. In the automotive trade, spot putty is used to fill small imperfections in body work, and touch up areas where the two part putty was used. Both of these products can be purchased at any auto parts store such as Auto Zone, Car Quest, or Pep Boys. Mike Settle ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From GORDONBUT@aol.com Subject Re Request for advice about plastic putty filler for Mike Potter, The method I use is P38 car body filler although not in any position where it is flexible. this i have found to cheap and does not shrink. The only snagg is the rubbing down when dry. The ideal tool is the Pensander from Proxxon Gordon Buttress ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From Shane Subject HMAS Australia I plans Hi all, Does anyone know where I can get some decent plans for the RAN WW1 battlecruiser HMAS Australia?? Got the urge to do some scratchbuilding ;-) All the best, Shane ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From "Tom Harrison" Subject New from Tom's Modelworks Pictures should be up on our web site this weekend www.tomsmodelworks.com Set 6007 1/600 Scale Prinz Eugen detailing set $20.00 Set 3545 1/350 US Naval doors, over 130 doors, 11 styles both open and closed, Half etched detail. $11.00 Set 4021 1/400 US Naval doors, over 130 doors, 11 styles both open and closed, Half etched detail. $11.00 Set 2012 1/192 US Naval doors, over 130 doors, 11 styles both open and closed, Half etched detail. $25.00 Set 2013 1/200 Yamato / Musashi Reel set enough reels for one kit plus spare. Half etched detail. Over the next several months we will be releasing sets in 1/96, 1/144, 1/192, 1/350, 1/400 1/600 and 1/700 We will start posting these future sets on our web site. currently we are putting the finishing touches on the super detailing set for the soon to be released Liberty ship from Trumpeter. We have also developed a photo CD which covers the Jeremiah O'Brien and John W Brown. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at http//smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at http//apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume