Subject: SMML VOL 2593 Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2004 00:54:41 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http//sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1 Putty 2 Re Request for advice about plastic putty filler 3 HMS Relentless 4 ID for a Greek warship 5 Re WWI Battlecruiser HMS Australia Plans 6Heller HMS Illustrious ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From "Jim Johnson" Subject Putty Just to add my two cents worth, all of the advice that has been given will work. The only thing I saw that I don't agree with is to let CA set overnight before you sand it. It will be to hard by then. If you use CA to fill gaps (I have and do) apply it, spray it with acclerator and sand at once. Just be sure that you get plastic compatable accelarator. There is no right way to fill seams. I have filled many yards of seams over the past 40 years. Different situations call for different methods. Regaurdless of what you use, here are some suggestions 1. Take your time. I can't remember when I have ever been pleased with my first attempt. You must fill, sand, fill, sand etc. untill you have it smooth. I am currently building an Airfix Boeing 727-100. The -100 model is rare and not produced any longer. I thought it was a -200 which is common. I let my, at the time, 7 year old and his buddy build it. There was an eighth inch gap all around. The wings were glued on upside down. The windows were glued in with a half a container of Testors thick liquid glue. The fuslage is the only part I am saving (the wings etc. are the same as a -200). I am currently on my approximatly 12th fill and sand cycle. This is before I prime it to find all the little spots. That may be another 6 to 12 cycles. 2. Solvent type puttys/fillers (Squadron, 3MAcryl Blue etc.) shrink when they dry. They shrink after you think they are dry. They are particulary bad if you use them to fill a gap with no backing. You will let it dry for days, sand it smooth, prime/paint it and a week later there will be a gully where the gap was filled. They arn't bad when filling small areas with backing, but if you are filling open gaps, use CA of epoxy or something else. 3. Epoxy and CA are mechanicaly bonded. They grab ahold of microscopic flaws in the surface, fill these flaws and then harden. The moral of this story is to give the surfaces that will be bonded the most small flaws that you can. Sand or wire brush the surfaces to be bonded. 4. Regardless of what you use, sand the ares flat with a stiff sanding medium. If you use sandpaper in your hand, some areas will sand faster than other. This is due to more pressure in one spot than another and the differences in the hardness of the materials being sanded. Use something with a stiff backing. 5. As you can see, there are a lot of ways to fill and sand. Try them all and pick the one you like. Above all, be patient. Jim Johnson ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From Ives100@aol.com Subject Re Request for advice about plastic putty filler You'll probably get two dozen different techniques. First, toss the Squadron Green and or White. I've been using successfully for several years Bondo glazing putty. This is a red material, very smooth (not to be confused with the two part Bondo for car repair). The material can be sanded very smooth after drying. Apply in very thin coats, and once dry, you can dry sand with 400 then wet sand with 600 paper. There is a similar material called I believe Eurocoat Eversoft which is supposedly excellent, but I have not been able to find any to buy. Tom Dougherty ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From brownatfareham@surefish.co.uk Subject HMS Relentless Recently, I have been cleaning a model of the RN Type 15 frigate, HMS Relentless, for a local museum. We assume the model was originally built in the late 1940s and the museum has some pictures of the original model (3 photos attached). The model has since been modified to more closely represent the vessel as actually built/reconstructed. We are trying to find out more about the 'four barrelled turret' on the forecastle. It seems likely that this was intended to be an ahead throwing anti-submarine weapon of some type. There are also two 'single barrelled turrets', one either side of the bridge, which look like they could be the same basic weapon. If anybody can provide further information, we would be very grateful. Regards Les Brown Hi all. Photos have been uploaded to the SMML site in the Reference Section under Misc References. Shane ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From " David and Alison Muir" Subject ID for a Greek warship A large-ish warship appears in the background of the some photos of the womens Olympic beach volleyball. Two turrets, ram bow, tripod mast, cruiser stern, looks 'old'. Question 1 Any idea which ship? Question 2 more interested in the ship than the women...is there a cure? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From "Joy and Nick Rogers" Subject Re WWI Battlecruiser HMS Australia Plans Shane wrote in SMML Vol 2592 >> Does anyone know where I can get some decent plans for the RAN WW1 battlecruiser HMAS Australia?? Got the urge to do some scratchbuilding. << As in the West Islanders battlecruiser which had an unlucky war? Why not build a HMS New Zealand, which fired more shells (400) than any other dreadnought at Jutland. Also fought in all three of Admiral Beatty's battles in the North Sea, whereas HMAS Australia missed all of them. The Official Historian's statement being that she "never saw a battle or fired a gun in action". (see http//www.gwpda.or1g/naval/hmasaust.htm) HMS New Zealand sailed around the world twice(1913 & 1919-1920), was Admiral Jellicoe's flagship in 1919 and had magical Maori armour protection. HMAS Australia did manage to collide with two other battlecruisers. Sister ship HMS New Zealand in 1916 & HMS Repulse in 1917. She missed Jutland because she bent her propellors backing out of dry dock after completing repairs to the first lot of collision damage. Almost as good a score as another Aussie Navy flagship HMAS Melbourne. (2 friendly destroyers + at least one wharf rammed & sunk) The 11 scale prototype is still around,as HMAS Australia was scuttled by her own Navy in 1924. That is if you have a submarine as she lies in 150 fathoms, 24 miles east of the Inner South Head, Sydney Harbour. Anyways enough trans-Tasman comparisons.PLANS that I know of. #1. I have the RAN ship model plans on CD which I ordered from the Aussie Navy website. A bit basic but fine enough for the hull and superstructure. Easily re-scaled on a computer. #2 Plan & Elevation 1913 & Elevation 1919 of HMS New Zealand in R.A. Burt's "British Battleships of WWI." Still a little plain but probably all you need. The decks are covered with coal loading scuttles. #3 Elevation only c/w Hull compartmentation detail on page 259 of Anthony Preston's "Battleships of WWI." (of HMAS Australia herself) #4 The National Library of NZ has some amazing photos of HMS New Zealand. They do very reasonably priced laser photocopies & postage. Their website has some quite large previews of these pics. What scale are you planning to build your model? Cheers, Nick Rogers, Auckland, NZ Hi Nick, Cheers for the info mate - appreciated I have the RAN CD which is why I'm after better plans ;-). They're not bad but not what I expected when I ordered it. I'm looking at either 1/700 or 1/600 for the model, but don't expect anything soon. Shane ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From "philip j LONG" Subject Heller HMS Illustrious Hi Guys I've noticed that the Heller illustrious is again available can anyone tell me what stage of her career is she modelled and what aircraft is she carrying? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at http//smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at http//apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume