Subject: SMML VOL 2658 Date: Thu, 28 Oct 2004 04:08:03 +1000 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http//sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1 Lengthening a ship hull 2 Re SS Young America 3 Re Cold War Deck Plans 4 Re Lengthening an Injection Mold Hull 5 Re 7 turret Fletcher? 6 Re 7 turret Fletcher? 7 WW2 Bomb Colors 8 Re Cable ship Cyrus Field 9 Foxtrot sub 10 Re Lengthening an Injection Mold Hull 11 USS Constellation sails home after a century -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1 Card Model Queen Mary 2 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From 520086475121-0001@t-online.de (F. Pletscher) Subject Lengthening a ship hull Mike I'd suggest you cut off the Belfast hull so that the fore part is half the length of the new model. Then cut off the Tiger hull so that the aft part is also half the length you need for the new model. Then fix both parts together, glue some strong parts of plastic sheet to the back of the hull sides to strengthen the link, and finally fill and sand it over until you have a smooth surface. Don't forget to allow for good drying after each step. It will take some time, but it works. I did so several times. Falk Pletscher ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From Russell_Lessard@aigvalic.com Subject Re SS Young America Thanks to all who provided photos and information on the Young America! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From David Wells Subject Re Cold War Deck Plans Jon Warneke wrote >> The CGN's don't have released plans since all are nuclear-powered ships, and are still restricted by National Archives. The Navy has no copies of these plans (according to an FOIA request, all have been forwarded to NARA), and National Archives won't declassify them << Richard Sweeney wrote >> Having worked in a National Archives facility (A Presidential Library, sorry nothing particularly naval.) I can tell you that the Process for getting anything declassified can sometimes literally require an act of Congress. Aside from the topic matter, to declassify documents requires agreement from ALL parties involved. If the companies no longer exist or do not agree to the release, things stay classified. If people involved are dead, things stay classified. Eventually approval to release the documents can be achieved if the United States Congress passes an act to declassify them. There are times NARA can't even tell you why things are still classified, except, they can't get the approval to release the information. << It makes you wonder what's so secret about the external plans of these ships. I can understand keeping things like the reactors secret, or sensors even the or lower hull designs, but why on earth would the basic horizontal plan of the deck be so secret? And why is the profile unclassified? I've got several profile diagrams, and of course, the basic dimensions. And there are plenty of photos out there. You can get diagrams of SSBNs, which, if anything, should be even more secret. What on earth could they be trying to keep secret? FWIW, in the case of the Truxtun (CGN-35) I was going to try to convert a battered wreck of an Aurora Bainbridge into a Truxtun. I need some information on the width and placement of the hangar, the superstructure piece in front of the bridge, etc. In the case of the Virginia, I was actually thinking of making a Modified Virginia (CGN-42) class, and was just looking for some basic hull information. I have a hard time understanding why all this stuff is so secret. Of course, if somebody knows why it's all secret, they probably can't tell, because the reason is secret too. ;-) How does the old saying go? "I could tell you, but then I'd have to kill you". "There seems to be something wrong | David R. Wells with our bloody ships today" | Adm. D. Beatty, May 31, 1916 | http//home.att.net/~WellsBrothers/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From David Wells Subject Re Lengthening an Injection Mold Hull "Connor, Michael" >> David Wells in Vol 2656 talked about lengthening the hull in his case to accommodate additional 5” guns on a Fletcher class. In my case I want to try to build my version of the post war “never was” “HMS Neptune”, using an Airfix “Belfast” or “Tiger” hull. The “Belfast” is nearly the correct length, but has a rounded stern. However, the “Tiger” has the correct square stern but would need lengthening. << We may have some sick ideas in common here. One of my many ongoing projects (I swear I'll finish one someday....) is a post-war Minotaur class CL. IIRC, the Minotaur class of 1947 had pretty much the same hull design as the Neptune class. I started with a Belfast hull, on the grounds that it's about the right size. Also, it's a nicer model than the earlier "Tiger" kit. I ended up building extentions to the side of the stern out of strip styrene, and of course, the inevitable automotive glazing putty. If the Neptune class has a flush deck similar to that on the Minotaur, then you can use the strip styrene to build up the quarterdeck and flare the stern at the same time. The problem with the Belfast kit is that it has bulges that were added to repair torpedo damage. I "solved" this problem by deciding to make a Minotaur class at mid-career, with some damage repair. It's hypothetical anyway, so I can do anything I want. ;-) I'm also working on a Revell KGV to Lion conversion, which also involves a flared stern. Splicing a hull is easier, in some ways. I typically splice the hull amidships. I make a lateral cut, then use a combination of strip and sheet styrene to make interior reinforcements, glue these into place, and then fill in the outer "shell plating". In the case of the Airfix Tiger kit, the hull is nice and smooth, so you should be able to make a splice easily. Contact me off-list, and we'll talk about deck plans. ;-) David R. "Too Many Incomplete Projects" Wells "There seems to be something wrong | David R. Wells with our bloody ships today" | Adm. D. Beatty, May 31, 1916 | http//home.att.net/~WellsBrothers/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From David Wells Subject Re 7 turret Fletcher? AAA Hobby Supply wrote >> Dave, you missed the most obvious 7-gun conversion. Replace two of the single mounts with the twin mounts of the Sumner/Gearing classes. << Concieveable, I suppose. Indeed my entirely fanciful 10-gunned destroyer leader was made sort of like this. As I said earlier, I started with the recent Testors re-issue of the Hawk Fletcher class, since it's cheap, and slightly larger than 1/700 scale. (1/670 or so, by my calculations) I used the 5" twins from a Skywave E-6 set, since they're a little on the narrow side, and I happened to have some lying around. They looked really good on there. With a slightly stretched hull, it even looks quasi realistic. You could probably make a 7-gun ship without stretching the hull. Or perhaps take a Sumner, and add a 5" single in place of the aft 40mm quad gun or torpedo tubes. (depending on whether the Sumner has the late-war AA refit) >> I couldn't find the reference anywhere in my quick scan, but I do think the 7-gun DD was one scheme considered for what became the Gearings, which were little more larger improved Fletchers. << I looked through my copy of Sumrall's Sumner/Gearing book, and I couldn't find it. >> It seems that the 8-gun DD was another - both of which added a mount above the rear mount, but was dropped in favor of more 40mm mounts. << Now, here's a really obscure one I think there was a Pyro 1/475 scale "wheeled" kit of a Sumner with 8 guns like this! I've never seen one in person, so I have no idea if it's any good or not. I know I've seen a diagram for a Gearing/Sumner-like 8 gunned destroyer (not one of the pre-war leaders) but I can't find it anywhere. It doesn't seem to be in Sumrall, or in Friedman's "US Destroyers". Maybe on-line somewhere? "There seems to be something wrong | David R. Wells with our bloody ships today" | Adm. D. Beatty, May 31, 1916 | http//home.att.net/~WellsBrothers/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From "William H. Shuey" Subject Re 7 turret Fletcher? FWIW You need to remember that the Sumner/Gearing hull was not simply a lengthened Fletcher. There was also an increase in beam to increase displacement to accommodate the weight and to give space for the twin mounts and their under deck equipment. IOW no twin mounts on a Fletcher hull. William Shuey ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From "Kim Lee Christensen" Subject WW2 Bomb Colors Hello Does anybody have some information or pictures showing which color the various bomb types had, used by the RAF/FAA, during WW2. I use Humbrol nr. 66 when I have no other information but I would like to have some variations of color. So anything from torpedoes to target indicators would by appreciated. with thanks beforehand Kim ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From "Kevin W. Woodruff" Subject Re Cable ship Cyrus Field Rolie A nice picture of the C. S. Cyrus Field can be found online at http//www.virtualmuseum.ca/pm.php?id=story_line_child&fl=&lg=English&ex=00000052&sl=461&pos=1#12 I hope this helps Kevin ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From "KIT C. Lam" Subject Foxtrot sub Dear fellows, Do you know who make the cold-war Russian sub the Foxtrot class? 1/700, 1/350 or 1/400 Okay. Better plastic injection model (Resin maybe too expensive). Thanks for helps ! Kit Lam ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From "Pelle Bergschöld" Subject Re Lengthening an Injection Mold Hull Funny that someone else is building "could-have-beens". I've done lengthenings by inserting a hull plug from a second kit of the same type, in your case a second "Tiger". You primarily use the hull halves of the second kit, cut to waterline or not, and add plasticard to make deck if the original kit deck isn't useable. Sometimes it is. You also have to be careful choosing exactly where to cut the first hull to avoid problems with the hull with, but that is mainly a problem if you aren't using plasticard deck. Otherwise it is simple, not least due to the very soft and shapeable plastic that the Airfix kits are molded in. Good luck! Pelle SWE ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From JRKutina@webtv.net (John Kutina) Subject USS Constellation sails home after a century http//www.washingtontimes.com/functions/print.php?StoryID=20041027-121031-3134r Regards, John Kutina ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From "D. A. den Bakker" Subject Card Model Queen Mary 2 Many 'traditional' ship modelers may not realise that paper modeling leads to very acceptable models. One great advantage compared to 'real' models, paper models are relatively inexpensive. I would like to draw your attention to two very special kits the Queen Mary 2, scale 1400, published by the Polish firm JSC (Poland has a number of excellent designers and publishers), and the modern three mast schooner 'Eendracht', fully rigged. Both come with full instructions in English and detailed sketches. The 'Eendracht' is definitely a demanding project - the QM2 is probably easier, but a lot of details make for a lovely model. For pictures, go to my website www.zeistbouwplaten.nl, where you will find a number of other ships as well. Please feel free to mail me for information da.denbakker@planet.nl ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at http//smmlonline.com Check out the APMA site for an index of ship articles in the Reference section at http//apma.org.au/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume