Subject: SMML VOL 2666 Date: Fri, 05 Nov 2004 02:03:43 +1100 SMML is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http//sandlehobbies.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1 Re Casting hollow resin parts? 2 Re Casting hollow resin parts 3 WSW Derfflinger kit 4 PT Boat Camouflage 5 Re RN Tribal Class Destroyers 6 casting hollow resin parts 7 Re Casting hollow resin parts? 8 Re U-boat 9 Re Casting hollow resin parts? 10 Re U-boat 11 Re Casting hollow resin parts -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1 1600 Warship kits for swop! ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From "Les Pickstock" Subject Re Casting hollow resin parts? There's a process called rotational casting which might apply where a closed mould with a measured amount of resin is spun through 3 axis to distribute the resin evenly around the inside of the mould. This would mean building some kind of gimbal arrangement. An alternative that I have used to save resin is to pour a layer of resin into the mould and place a insert of rigid polyurethane foam in the mould on top of the resin layer then top the mould off with resin. This leaves a foam core in the moulding. You have to ensure the foam can't move as the the rest of the resin is poured as it will want to float to the top. The wall thickness of the resin can be adjusted by altering the core size. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From "Bruno Gire" Subject Re Casting hollow resin parts Hi Matt, I use two different ways to cast "hollow" parts (i.e. thin parts to spare resin and weight) Way 1 (the most difficult and expensive) make a two-part mold with RTV - Lay a thick (1cm) clay layer in the bottom of a molding case - Fit your master on the clay this will let only one face visible. At this stage, add filling and venting pipes and put postionning pins in the clay around the master (I make all those with tappered 3mm square or round Evergreen). Experience (and "feeling") is required to place the pipes and mold joint to the right place to avoid trapped air bubbles when molding. - Pour RTV on this until you've got about 3mm above the master top. Let cure overnight. - Turn the molding case upside down and carefully remove the bottom clay layer, leaving the master and pipes in place. Remove the positionning pins and lay a generous coat of rubber-to-rubber mold release on the mold joint. - Let dry for an hour and pour RTV to make the "counter-mold", the same way as the first part. Let cure overnight, demold, clean and let cure again overnight. The mold is ready secure the two half-mold together between plates with tape or anything else without causing deformation. Pour the PU resin into the filling pipe until it fills back from the vent pipe. Let cure and demold. Products you'll need for this (from www.micromark.com) - #82663 ten-to-one high tear strength RTV - #80475 rubber-to-rubber release - #80476 Kleen Klay Way 2 (the inexpensive, more "accobatic" way) - Make an RTV mold only for the exterior side of your master model. - Prepare an insert this is a piece of light, inexpensive material (balsa, foam *) which is carved to fill most of the volume of the final part. - Either pour a 3mm layer of PU resin into the mold, let cure to the "mid-hard cream" stage, put your insert on it and complete filling of the mold... - Or design a device to hold the insert from the top into the mold and pour resin around. Be carefull the insert will float in the densier resin and will have a tendency to go upward, thanks to Archimedes.... This works fine for PU and Epoxy. I even tried it successfully with RTV. If you use foam (polystyrene, PU, etc.) try first PU resin has a tendency to bubbles on contact with foam, destroying the expected result. I prefere balsa wood. Hope this helps Bruno Gire (Bordeaux, France) ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From "The code" Subject WSW Derfflinger kit Hello list, Im taking a break from HMS Victory and am working on WSW little 1/700 scale SMS Derfflinger... I want to do the mast in Brass as the white metal one are not very good IMHO.. My question is are the white metal mast correct for may 1916 Jutland? I have seen pics on the web that show a very wide yardarm type mast but I think this is her as built in 1914..Also there are lots of pics of her after Jutland with the tripod mast forward ??? Any help out there Im almost finished with this very nice little kit.. Cheers BC ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From "Robert P. Mattis" Subject PT Boat Camouflage Does anyone have any experience in using the WEM line of paints for Pacific Theatre PT boat camouflage. All my sources have indicated either an overall dark green or two color green camouflage. I am modeling an 80 foot Elco boat and I am looking for a source for the shade of the green paints. WEM has several US Navy greens including one called MTB green. Can anyone help? Bob Mattis ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From "JOHN HODKINSON" Subject Re RN Tribal Class Destroyers >> I am currently building the Samek 1/700 kit of HMS Eskimo as she appeared at Narvik in April 1940. From references in various books it seems she was in AP507A (Admiralty dark grey) overall but the colour of the decks I am unclear on. A posting here by John Lambert some ago mentioned that "as-fitted" drawings of sister ship HMS Matabele showed some deck areas as covered in a non-skid rubber composition, other areas bare steel (painted) and yet other areas (possibly internal) were linoleum covered. Does anyone have any information on the colour of the non-skid rubberised material. From photos I have seen it seems to be lighter in shade than the painted steel deck areas (prob AP507A). Also, what was this stuff called. Was it "Wundergrip" which Chris Amano-Langtree has stated was fitted to the J,K,N classes or was it an early form of Semtex or was it something entirely different and not a linoleum-type product at all. Whatever, the colour of it is what I need to know. Can anyone help? << Hi Ken, Dont know if this is any help to your questions. I have the as fitted drawings from John Lambert of Matabele and it says - "heat resisting non-skid latex composition on walking way".non skid rubber composition on exposed deck, on the foredeck from the midships deck break to the breakwater then bare steel deck(with footstrips )matallized to the bow. Also on colours in Peter Hodges RN Warship Comouflage the following was in the appendix. DECKS- Western approaches...............................deck...B30 Light Admiralty.......................................deck..G20 Intermediate admiralty..............................deck..G10 Dark admiralty.........................................deck..G5. Cant help more than that. I did find John Snyder at WEM extremely helpfull on colours for my HMCS Haida I am building at the moment (1/48) Good Luck Regards John ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From JRKutina@webtv.net (John Kutina) Subject casting hollow resin parts My method is to cast in parts. I recently cast some 1/160 scale truck trailers. You do it in parts. Cast the bottom [ top of trailer ]. When dry cast separately the four sides. With ship hulls you cast the bottom [ deck ] then one side -- then after that side is dry -- cast the other. Works well for me as I cast waterline hulls. Regards, John Kutina ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From Randy Ward Subject Re Casting hollow resin parts? >> I've been making resin parts and hulls for a long time, however I'd like to start making hollow parts to keep weight down. Does anyone on the list know how to "blow-mold" resin? << Matt, I've not tried it yet, but I've heard of folks who pour a mold partially full, then rotate it thoroughly to coat all of the surfaces. 'Don't know how good it is, but maybe that's something to try... Cap'n Randy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From "Harold Stockton" Subject Re U-boat Concerning the cost of the new Czechmaster series of updates for the Revell 1/72 U-boat, calling it their "Das Boot" series. The cost is not projected to be that prohibitive. Hannants lists these as the suggested retail price for the specific sections, Pound Sterling for export at 29.45 each, or about $ 50.00 N72001 Central Control section of hull (does not seem to cover the control tower itself); at http//www.hannants.co.uk/search/?FULL=CMKN7201 N72002 Torpedo room section; at http//www.hannants.co.uk/search/?FULL=CMKN7202 N72003 Engine room section (should be the same price). This should put a fully finished U-boat at about $200 for all of the Czechmaster resin pieces and crew, and one would then have to add the cost of a WEM photoetched set and replacement aluminum gun-barrels. A $400 model is still cheaper than a fully outfitted Flower class corvette. Harold Stockton ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From Gary Kingzett Subject Re Casting hollow resin parts? >> I've been making resin parts and hulls for a long time, however I'd like to start making hollow parts to keep weight down. Does anyone on the list know how to "blow-mold" resin? << Matt, In Peter Beisheim's book, Building Model Warships of the Iron and Steel Eras, Naval Institute Press, Annapolis, MD, 2003, there is a chapter by David Merriman III on building an RC model of the USS Skipjack. He casts the hull and sail using flexible and removable cores to save weight. It appears he is reachable through his firm, D & E Miniatures, in Virginia Beach, VA, and has a website, www.vabiz.com/d&e. Good luck Gary ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From "David N. Lombard" Subject Re U-boat From Ives100@aol.com >>NCzechmaster has announced their latesr series of updates for the Revell 1/72 U-boat, calling it their "Das Boot" series. These will comprise complete interior sections for the kit in order to do cut-aways of the hull. The specific sections are N72001 Central Control section of hull (does not seem to cover the control tower itself). N72002 Torpedo room section. N72003 Engine room section. << Where? Oh, google is my friend http//kits.kitreview.com/mpmpreviewbg_2.htm >> I recently saw photos of these posted. Very impressive hunks of resin detailing. I'm guessing that with the size and details, these are going to run fairly high in price, possibly with each section costing as much as the original kit. This must be some kind of aftermarket record for a ship model (possibly a record overall regardless of subject). If one loaded up on all the aftermarket accessories (decks, brass detail sets, new resin conning towers, crew, etc.) one could easily turn a $50 polystyrene kit into a $400 project!! << I would guuess the GLS mods to the Revell Flower are easily around that price already. That would be a great pair on a BIG shelf, a flower and a viic David N. Lombard Rossmoor, Orange County, CA http//www.fourmilab.ch/cgi-bin/uncgi/Earth?imgsize=320&opt=-z&lat=33.8&ns=North&lon=118.08&ew=West&alt=7&img=learth.evif ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From "david angelo" Subject Re Casting hollow resin parts Hi Matt, A fellow once demonstrated this to a bunch of us at a modelers meeting. He put a quanity of resin into an envelope mold and slowly rotated it 360 thru one plane and then another. He continued this till the resin set up. Vola! out came a hollow 1/96 VLS tube for a Sparrow missle. HTH David ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From NeilTaylor54@aol.com Subject 1600 Warship kits for swop! I am a 1600 warship modeller who would like to swop the following Aurora Kits Yamato King George V Graf Spee Saratoga Independence In return either in a job lot or individually, in rebuildable condition, built, some damage but all the bits there or unbuilt the following Bandi Hyuga Aurora Guadalcanal Airfix Victorious Contact Neil Taylor neiltaylor54@aol.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Reviews, Articles, Backissues, Member's models & reference pictures at http//smmlonline.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume