Subject: SMML VOL 2701 Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2004 12:25:00 +1100 The Ship Modelling Mailing List (SMML) is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http//sandlehobbies.com For infomation on how to Post to SMML and Unsubscribe from SMML http//smmlonline.com/aboutsmml/rules.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1 Landing Craft 2 Paint Stirring Tip 3 Paints Shaking vs Stirring 4 WEM Paints 5 uboat.net - The U-boat War 1939-1945 -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1 Contact for Samek Models 2 New Magazine from Classic Warships Publishing ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From "Daniel Taylor" Subject Landing Craft >> Note the gaps in my knowledge/research. Admittedly, the vessels underwent modifications (both local and sanctioned) by the addition of firepower &/or other fittings. Some vessels had a bow door that lowered to form the ramp. Others had gangways on or flanking the bows, that lowered like a castle drawbridge (strictly for disembarking troops). A comprehensive write-up (with drawings & photos?) of all of the permutations, combinations, types and classes of Landing Craft would undoubtedly fill several volumes. As usual, a wealth of information can be found on the internet under "landing craft". The ultimate is the US Marines system of 25 troops riding ashore in a swimming armoured tracked vehicle called a LVTP7 (Landing Vehicle Tracked, personnel), later renamed AAVP7A1's (Amphibious Assault Vehicle, Personnel), supported by troops landed from helicopters, and backed-up by aircraft (jets and choppers) from their Assault Carrier mother-ship. I wonder what their next vehicle, the AAAV (Advanced Amphibious Assault Vehicle) will look like? << Dear George I was interested to see the information on the current Australian landing craft, so thanks for that. I hope the following is of interest. The LCPL - Landing Craft Personnel (Large) - was the original Higgins boat. It was produced in two basic types a British vessel, which had a narrower troop space and canvas cover; and a US vessel with wider troopspace, armour protection and two 0.30 calibre MG tubs forward. The British one was lighter and a little faster. Neither had a ramp so the troops had to disembark over the bow! The LCPL led to the LCR - Landing Craft, Ramped (sometimes LCPR) which was the same vessel but with a ramp. The ramp was very narrow, between the two gun tubs, so the design was then adapted to make the LCV - Landing Craft, Vehicle and strengthened for the LCVP. Just to broaden your point on the LCT, there were actually eight significantly different vessels designated LCT. LCTs I, II, III and IV were British designs. LCTs 5 & 6 were US designs around a British concept. The LCT 7 was a US design that, because of its size became A LSM - Landing Ship Medium - and the eight was another British vessel There were two very different LCI designs. The LCI you mention was an American design based around a British concept that they took on because they had more facilities for producing steel boats (and were better when it came to welding facilities. This was the LCI(L) for Large. The British also produced and LCI(S) for Small. This was a Wooden vessel based on the Fairmile motor launch fabrication technique. It had riveted armour added and could carry just over 100 troops. Don't despair on the LCT (R). One of the projects on the stocks is a LCT2 /LCT3, and I believe I have worked out the basis of how it could be built in a straightforward manner (notice I did not say simple). As you suggest, there are volumes worth of information on these vessels. Best wishes Dan Taylor ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From mflake@airmail.net Subject Paint Stirring Tip I took an old paint brush and cut off the bristles. After that, I sawed off the handle leaving a 2-inch piece, including the metal part at the end of the brush. Then I bent the metal part 90 degrees. I put this new attachment into my motor tool, insert the bent part into the paint and turn on the Dremel at a low speed. Paint mixes in less than a minute. Oh, yeah, remember to turn the Dremel off before you take it out of the paint. Marc Flake ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From KELVIN MOK Subject Paints Shaking vs Stirring >> This means that redispersing them takes a bit of energy. Shaking is a very inefficient way of applying that energy, hence all the suggestions to stir the paint. I would also suggest that shaking will also cause bubbles which may mar your finish. Another good reason to stir, stir, stir. << One very good reason not to shake hobby paints is that some of the paint sticks to the underside of the cover or lid. When you open the cover or lid to use the paint the cover or lid is laid flat on the table. This glob of paint levels out and flows to the edges, perhaps even wicks up the screw threads. When you replace the cover or lid this paint smears the can's rim or the bottle's screw threads. The paint dries and repeated coats of dried paint glue the cover or lid shut; cause solvent evaporation due to an incomplete seal; and of course flakes of dried paint can fall into the container to aggravate your air brush problems or that gritty finish if you brush on the paint. As 007 said "Stirred not shaken" or was it the other way round? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From James Kloek Subject WEM Paints I've had the same problem with WEM paints. And yes, I have stirred, stirred, and stirred some more. Nevertheless, they (very slowly) dried to satin, and not flat, and their covering power was, in a word, unacceptable. It took at least three coats, and considering that it took 48-72 hours for a coat to dry, it took a long time to get anything painted. And no, I was not painting in a refrigerator, I was painting at room temperature. This is a problem that has been asked about on Steel Navy and Warships in the past. As has been the case here, there are some people who have had this problem with these paints, and then a number of others who have not. Poor mixing is always blamed, but in my case I can assure you that was not the problem. I suspect there is a quality control problem with their manufacture. Most batches are OK, but from time to time a bad batch gets out there. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From JRKutina@webtv.net (John Kutina) Subject uboat.net - The U-boat War 1939-1945 http//www.uboat.net/ I have just completed reading "Shadow Divers" by Robert Kurson. It is an amazing book documenting the discovery of a type IX German sub found in 230' of water about 70 miles off the New Jersey coast. It reads like a novel but it is a true documentary of two men, scuba divers, who spent several years identifying the U boat number and type. The author suggests the reader download the attached for more information. The gallery has amazing photos of the U-boat fleet and service bunkers. Regards, John Kutina ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From "WEM" Subject Contact for Samek Models Hi Guys, I am looking for a replacement for a part missing from a SAMEK kit, and would like to get in touch with the manufacturer by e-mail. Could you email me offline at wem@onetel.com if you know? Many Thanks! Caroline Snyder ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From SteveWiper@aol.com Subject New Magazine from Classic Warships Publishing The first issue of "Warship Modeler" magazine is at the printers as of today. I will be mailing out subscriptions by the second week of January. "Warship Modeler" should also be available at your local hobby shop, or mail order dealer by the end of January. If you have not subscribed, and would like to, then please go to my web site @ www.classicwarships.com and click on the image of the magazine. An order form will pop up. Print this out, fill it out, and mail it in to me. Below is the original announcement - >> Well, it is official! "Warship Modeler" is a reality! I am almost finished with the first issue of this new quarterly, which will be published in January, with the others to follow in April, July and October. This magazine will cover the scale steam era warship modeling market and enthusiast. Content will be kit and accessory reviews, along with reviews of other warship modeling products from around the world. Many drawings of warship details, and a complete set of plans on a specific vessel will be included. Articles on modeling techniques, historic vessels and built ship model galleries, along with the above mentioned items will make this a premier magazine for this venue. Initial page count will be 56, but this will grow soon, and a heavy 70 lb. glossy paper will give this magazine a very nice look. "Warship Modeler" will be available at your local hobby shop and also thru your favorite hobby mail order business. Subscriptions are also available direct from Classic Warships Publishing. Subscription Price $36.00 USA, $42.00 for Canada, or $60.00 overseas. Make payments in US $, Personal Check, Postal Money, or VISA/MASTER CARD Order to Classic Warships P. O. Box 57591 Tucson, AZ 85732 USA (520)748-2992 Welcome aboard! << Thanks for your support, Steve Wiper ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Reviews, Articles, Backissues, Member's models & Reference Pictures at http//smmlonline.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume