Subject: SMML VOL 2738 Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2005 02:43:03 +1100 The Ship Modelling Mailing List (SMML) is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http//sandlehobbies.com For infomation on how to Post to SMML and Unsubscribe from SMML http//smmlonline.com/aboutsmml/rules.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1 Re Freeboard of Liberty ships 2 Re IJN Destroyer Camouflage 3 Re revell parts replacment 4 Re Salinity and buoyancy 5 Re # 2 mount on Sumner class DD's 6 Re "What colour is the Sea"? -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1 Books for sale 2 NEW WEM 1/350 NIMITZ SETS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From "Doug Bauer" Subject Re Freeboard of Liberty ships Read the posting regarding the accuracy of the freeboard of the Trumpeter S.S. Jeremiah O'Brien...mariners will recall the Plimsoll Line, that cryptic heiroglyph found on the sides of merchant vessels. Usually found with a circle with a line drawn horizontally through it and with the letters A and B on either side of the line (the letters stood for American Bureau of Ships, who calculated the permissible drafts); next to it was a sort of a Z with lines emanating from it horizontally with small lettered abbreviations next to each one. The cargo load displacement was so critical to the vessel's "reserve buoyancy" and stability that the load limits were determined for tropical waters (T), tropical fresh waters (TF), summer (S) and winter (W), and winter North Atlantic (WNA), among others. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From "Daniel A. Kaplan" Subject Re IJN Destroyer Camouflage I stand corrected on my original statement "None of the IJN DDs ever carried a camouflage pattern." Mssrs. Reynaga & Rowlett have reminded me of the Mutsuki and other participants of the Aleutians Occupation/Northern Fleet. The Mutsuki is the only DD for which there is photographic evidence that I can think of, though. Dan Kaplan, NYC ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From Donsrcships@wmconnect.com Subject Re revell parts replacment Good moring to all of you . Want to say thank you for all of the advice that you all sent to me on trying to replace parts for the 32 , I did the web information that revell has ask this morning now it will be a wate and see game, Thank you again. This is a grate web sight and through the years I have been allways happy, YES THE cutter hull is now on it way to engine department and RC. DON That Portland Rustbucket ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From GKingzett@aol.com Subject Re Salinity and buoyancy Regarding the U-boat diving too deep and the emergency procedures to correct the problem. I wonder how they knew they had a problem and what was the problem. Depth gauges work on the principal of pressure. If you are diving in less dense water your gauge is going to read less pressure for any given depth, or conversely, you are going to dive until you reach the pressure you are looking for, and if that happens to be physically deeper, so what. (Within reason, of course. At some point you may collide with an immovable object, such as the bottom, as the USS San Francisco reputedly did recently, but that didn't seem to be the point of this story.) What I can't be sure of in my own mind is what happens in a fully immersed vessel; in a sub they must flood to near neutral buoyancy and control depth with the planes. I am assuming that even in those conditions, the sub would reach a depth where the apparent density of the water matched the depth they thought they wanted. But I could be wrong. Gary ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From "Paul Giltz" Subject Re # 2 mount on Sumner class DD's I seem to recall that several of the pre-war DD leaders , Porter class perhaps, had their #2 mount replaced with a quad 40 mm mount during their rebuilds. These leaders had twin 5 inch mounts and might be confused with a Sumner. Among my friends is an artist who works with aviation subjects.These artists go to extraordinary lengths to depict aircraft as they would have appeared during a specific combat mission.They research official records to obtain the aircraft serial numbers, consult almanacs to determine what the angle the sun would have been on that day,what was the weather like , and they interview the pilots if they are still available. ( if they can get the pilot to autograph their paintings/ lithos there is good money to be had...) While working on a painting of a Hurricane ace from the battle of Malta, the question came up as to what color the underside of the plane was at that time. Some of the planes still had the markings from their previous duty in Britain, some had been repainted to local markings. The pilot was contacted and asked.Upon short reflection he replied- "Pink... the undersides were always pink ...) This caused my friend some problems until he realized that this pilot had always flown the dawn patrol, and the rising sun had made his wingmen's planes appear pink as they took off. Of course they were actually White. My friend painted them pink, as they would have appeared. Part of the joy of model-building has got to be the detective work and mystery involved. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From Reynold.Oh@defence.gov.au Subject Re "What colour is the Sea"? Hi John Collins (from TN) 1. George Oh from Sydney, Australia, here - also a dedicated land lubber. There is no single, easy answer. Basicly the colour of the sea depends on the light - and there are a multitude of factors that affect the light - sunlight. Sunlight is radiation covering a wide band of wavelengths (or frequencies) Light (or white light) is that part that our eyes can capture. White light is flanked by infra-red (radiation) at one end, and ultra-violet (radiation) at the other. You've already seen white light split-up into its components (= radiation wave-lengths) when you last saw a rainbow. This is the visible spectrum. BTW, some (= active) night vision equipment work by shining a beam of infra-red (IR) light - also known as black light - linked to a device that collects IR. The (passive) defence is to have an equivalent device with the IR torch turned off. Other (passive) devices just amplify the available light (eg, a Starlight scope). 2. The (sun)light can strike the water directly from the sun or after being reflected down from the sky. It can strike the surface of the at any angle between 0-degres (= sunrise/set) or 90-degres (= sun is directly overhead) depending on time &/or latitude (the tropics or the polar regions). Some of the light is immediately reflected without penetrating the water. The rest enters the water and is absorbed (= it warms the water) or is eventually reflected back to the surface. The sea colour is the reflected light that your eye(s) collects. What is reflected back is determined by lots of factors - the sea-state (dead calm or lots of wave action), turbidity, depth..... 3. Lets look at clear calm water as a base-line. 100% of light immediately reflected back says the sea is shiny - just like looking at the sun. With a bit of surface action, small areas just happen to move into exactly the right position to reflect 100% of the light to you, and the sea sparkles. As the light penetrates the water, it is gradually absorbed or reflected back to the surface, starting at the shorter (or higher) wavelengths end. Most Ultra-violet is all reflected or absorbed in the first 4"/100mm of water. That's why you get sunburnt very quickly when on the water. Why does it start at the shorter end? Because shorter wavelengths are more likely to hit something that will reflect it - but that's more complicated. If there 'aint a lot of light getting to the sea surface in the first place (eg, overcast day etc) the same water will look much darker than on a bright sunny day. 4. If the water is very shallow (eg tropical lagoon in a atoll, a gentle beach in a protected bay etc), the white light is not yet split-up and it is reflect as the colour of the sea-floor, and the water looks clear. In shallow water, the green zone is reflected back and the water acn still look clear (again, shallow lagoon or surfers waves). In deep water, the blue zone is reflected back. (Ditto the atmosphere/sky, which is why the sky is blue.) The sea does not appear black (well, perhaps at night) because some light is always reflected back. Incidentally, because the longer wave lengths are absorbed last (= they penetrate deepest into the water), signals to submerged submaines are sent on VLF (= Very Low Frequency - can they TX on Ultra LF now?) and the submarine must trail a very long antenna. 5. Turbidity is the amount of other-than-water in the water - like dissolved minerals (= making the sea salty), plankton (small to microscopic plants & animals or parts thereof), good 'ole dirt (from the land), gases (dissolved & bubbles) - anything that makes the water less clear. The depth of the stuff in the water also has an influence. Turbidity inhibits the penetration of the light into the water and reflects it back. Lots of air in the water as bubbles (microscopic to large) - eg, surf - reflect the light straight back, so surf looks white. To get a rough measure of turbidity (or water clarity), a Marine Biologist lowers a clean, white, 1-metre diameter steel circle (= a sechi disk) into the water and records the depth when s/he is no longer able to see it (it disappears). It is lowered a bit more, then retrieved, and the depth it reappears is also recorded. 6. Bottom line is that the answer to your question is complex, and the colour of the sea will vary because a combination of many factors. Even the paint manufacturers have their own opinions (see the colours Sea green, Sea grey, Sea blue, all available as is, in a Dark shade, in a Light shade and even a Deep shade - though no Deep, dark shades). To paint a sea, I stick with a glossy very dark (almost black) blue. For bow-waves/foam, I stick with gloss white (with a drop or two of grey) and possibly a dry-brushing of pure white, especially on the edges of the foam. My advice to you is to do your sea a colour/colours that YOU are happy with. After all, others will look at your model (& sea) for minutes. It will be on your shelf for years (I hope) so who should be happy with it? Don't forget to slop some clear gloss onto the sides (& decks?) of the ship to indicate where the water reached. 7. Does anyone put down a thick (a relative term), clear, final layer on top of the sea? After all, on a 11-scale ship/boat, you can see some way down the hull into the water. I guess that this concept is a bit far-fetched for, say, 1/700-scale isn't it? George, out. TX ends........................ ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From CokerRE@aol.com Subject Books for sale I have the following books for sale. Please contact me off line at cokerre@aol.com. All items are OBO. Archibald, The Metal Fighting Ship in the Royal Navy $50.00 Coronation Review 1937 souvenir pamphlet 20.00 Elliott, Maritime Heritage 1981 UK museums 20.00 Hackney, HMS Victory (German edition) 10.00 Harding, Grey Ghost, RMS Queen Mary in WWII 20.00 Lynch, Canada’s Flowers 1939-45 15.00 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From "WEM" Subject NEW WEM 1/350 NIMITZ SETS Hi Chaps, Well, I now have the artwork from Mad Pete for the new 1/350 Nimitz sets. Take a look at WEM PE 3538 Fret 1 & Fret 2 http//www.whiteensignmodels.com/brochure/images/wembrass/wempe3538a.jpg http//www.whiteensignmodels.com/brochure/images/wembrass/wempe3538b.jpg If you're building the kit in the fit portrayed in the box, you only need WEM PE 3538. If you want to do a later fit of any of the Nimitz Class, and you need WEM PE 3539, which consists of the above, plus additional Fret 3 http//www.whiteensignmodels.com/brochure/images/wembrass/wempe3568.jpg We've also decided to release the additional Fret 3 separately, as WEM PE 3568 Nimitz Class Refit Parts, just in case any of you have fitted out the basic kit with another brand of PE, and just want the refit parts. This will sell at GBP 27.66. So, to clarify the final draft of what we're doing, PE 3538 fits out the basic kit, PE 3568 gives only the parts added in post-1975 refits to cover all ships of the class, and PE 3539 gets you both of the above sets at a saving of GBP 5.96 above buying them separately. Don't forget that none of these sets contain the airwing fittings, which are available as PE 3563 http//www.whiteensignmodels.com/brochure/images/wembrass/wempe3563.jpg I hope you all understand now, and if so could someone please explain it to me! 1/350 SCALE PE ORDER PAGE http//www.whiteensignmodels.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_1_350_Scale_Photo_Etch_40.html We also have a set of two anchors available in white metal for post-war US Carriers, WEM PRO 3507. You can order these here http//www.whiteensignmodels.com/acatalog/Online_Catalogue__Professional__Fittings___Accessories_34.html Thanks! Caroline Snyder, Director, http//WhiteEnsignModels.com for secure online ordering. For the latest news from WEM, Click Here http//www.whiteensignmodels.com/brochure/whats_new1.htm ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Reviews, Articles, Backissues, Member's models & Reference Pictures at http//smmlonline.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume