Subject: SMML VOL 2743 Date: Thu, 03 Feb 2005 00:56:53 +1100 The Ship Modelling Mailing List (SMML) is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http//sandlehobbies.com For infomation on how to Post to SMML and Unsubscribe from SMML http//smmlonline.com/aboutsmml/rules.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1 Re Henri IV color scheme 2 Plank on plank boat 3 USS Maine 1898 4 Airbrushes 5 Re Recommended Airbrushes? 6 Re Compressed Air on Subs, Bouyancy, etc 7 Re Salinity and buoyancy 8 ARTHUR W RADFORD kit -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1 IHP 2005 Kit schedule ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From Subject Re Henri IV color scheme To the best of my knowledge Henri IV had a black hull and quarterdeck with other decks wood. Upperworks were stone color (Humbrol 121) and funnel tops black. Michael London ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From Reynold.Oh@defence.gov.au Subject Plank on plank boat 1. George from Sydney, Australia here. About six years ago I glimpsed a catalogue in German, selling small solid plugs, on the outside of which could be built a plank-on-plank boat. One was a 6"/150mm long dingy with single mast and boom. By the photos, the keel is laid in a groove atop the plug (the boat is built upside-down), then the planks are laid in the outside of the plug. Finally the plug is flipped and the planks leveled with the (now) top of the plug. I am asking SMML if anyone knows of this catalogue (or similar) and how I can contact them (my German is non-existant). 2. The reason is that I wish to build in 1/35-scale a 16' small boat, which would make it 5.5" long. My intention is to build a diorama of a lone (civilian) man in a small boat picking-up six or seven British soldiers - a Dunkirk diorama. I got the idea from (re)reading "The Snowgoose" by Paul Gallico. For the diorama, I will need a 5.5 - 6"-long model boat. It should have a clinker hull, with a single mast fitted with a boom and gaff. George, out. TX ends.................... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From ALROSS2@aol.com Subject USS Maine 1898 If any SMMLies would like to see progress photos of the MAINE (1898) kit I'm developing for BlueJacket Shipcrafters, go to alross20.tripod.com/mainekit I upgrade it every couple days. It will only take twelve photos, so I've already deleted a few. Al Ross ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From Ralph Nardone Subject Airbrushes Hello, all..... Devin J. Poore asked >> Does anyone have recommendations on airbrushes primarily suitable for spraying fine detail? I use a Tamiya Sprayworks purely for large area coverage and manual brushing for detail/camo schemes. << I used to teach airbrushing courses at the local hobby shop, and what I used to tell anyone who was intetested was this--the best airbrush is the one that is comfortable and works for the user. That being said, here are a few of my favorites Badger 200--sure, it is a single action airbrush (SA-the trigger only controls air on/off, there is a separate paint volume adjustment), but it is one of the best out there. I have one that I still use that was given to me as a Christmas gift in 1978, and it still works like brand new. Badger 150--the 200's bigger dual action (DA) brother. Again, it can do most anything you'll ask of it. I bought mine in 1991 and it is still going strong. Paasche H--at one point, the H was the benchmark of hobby airbrushes. It is an external mix SA airbrush, but with practice it will do anything you want it to do. Paasche VL--the DA Paasche. It can be tempermental, but it is an option. Aztek 470--Up until a year or so ago, I used an Aztek 470 exclusively. My first was bought in 1991 (when it was the Testor's Model Master Professional Airbrush), sight unseen, and lasted until 2000 when it began leaking out of the rear roller adjuster. I had a second one that I bought at a club swap meet in 1999, and it was nowhere near as reliable as the original. Same goes for the tips--the originals would last 5X as long as the ones of more recent manufacture. They used to have lifetime warranties on the airbrush itself, but that recently changed to a 3-Year warranty. Some people I know have had to send theirs in at least once a year, so if you are leaning towards an Aztek I'd suggest you look elsewhere. A real shame, they are quite versatile, but their recent track record prevents me from suggesting this as a serious contender any longer. Iwata Eclipse family--the current "darling" of the model community. Granted, they are very nice airbrushes, and will (if cared for properly) last a lifetime. Still, I don't think they are any better or any worse than the Badger 150.... I've also used the Binks Wren and Raven II--great tools. Shame that Binks doesn't make them any longer.... The big variable in this equation is the user. The best (and often most ignored) advice I used to give was that in order to get proficient, you needed to practice. With practice, you can get a Paasche H to paint the fines line you could imagine. All it takes is a bit of time to experiment with air pressures and mixing ratios. You will eventually (if you don't already have one) purchase a compressor complete with pressure regulator, pressure gauge, and water trap. I use a Badger 180-1, the whole setup ran me about US $200. The last bit of advice I can give anyone wanting to improve their airbrushing skills is this--there is very little that you can do to stuff up a paint job that cannot be fixed. Patience pays in this case, as do the "Six P's" Proper Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance Cheers! Ralph ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From "Rick Nelson" Subject Re Recommended Airbrushes? I highly recommend the Iwata Custom Micron B (ICM-2000) if you want to do fine line work. It is probably at the high end of the price curve but from my experience "you get what you pay for". Be sure that you have an air system worthy of the Iwata. Air delivery is another key element in airbrushing. I have a Husky 5 HP, 13 Gallon tank Air Compressor with a Parker regulator/moisture trap. I also have an additional in-line moisture trap as close to the airbrush as possible. The air cools down as it travels through the hosing and you might get some additional moisture condensation that the regulator/moisture trap wasn't able to remove because the air was too hot coming out of the compressor. So a second moisture trap down-line is additional insurance that your air is dry. Rick Nelson "Damn the Pressure, Six-Zero feet!" "Boomers Hide With Pride" ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From "Rick Nelson" Subject Re Compressed Air on Subs, Bouyancy, etc Hanks' discussion can be summarized in the definition of Boyle's Law for gases pV = constant {for a constant temperature and a constant mass} (p)pressure times (V)Volume remains constant for a given temperature and a given mass. So, if pressure (p) increases the Volume (V) must decrease and visa versa. And as Hank pointed out the weight remains the same because the mass is assumed constant. As far as a submarines' internal atmospheric pressure changing is concerned the effect due to hull compression/expansion is negliable compared to other events that take place within the sub. First, all submarine candidates must be able to equalize their inner ear passages when exposed to atmospheric- or water-pressure changes. Otherwise, they cannot serve aboard submarines. Secondly, the pressure inside a submarine changes more due to numerous events like venting off a tank that had been pressurized with high-pressure air. Or, in the days when fleetboats would snorkel with their diesel engines running and the snorkel head valve would close due to a wave slap those diesels would pull a vacuum that would make you think your brains were coming out through your ears. As I had mentioned in one of my earlier responses Hull deformation is VERY demonstrable but the internal air pressure changes are not nearly as noticeable because the internal volume of a submarine hull is so large. A modern nuclear sub hull is approximately 33 feet in diameter and 300 to 600 feet long, and we are still only talking about a change in inches in hull size due to compression. Rick Nelson "Damn the Pressure, Six-Zero feet!" "Boomers Hide With Pride" ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From "Rick Nelson" Subject Re Salinity and buoyancy I have read some rather interesting theories about how submarines operate in the last few issues but most of them are incorrect. 1. Submarine crews do not have to be concerned about breathing out when ascending from the depths as George mentions. As I have stated previously the internal atmosphere in a submarine does NOT vary (much) as a function of the depth the submarine is at. The only time a sub sailor has to worry about an air embolism (lungs blowing up) is if they are attempting an emergency escape from a sunken submarine. The procedure used when attempting an escape is called "Blow and Go". The "Blow" portion being the constant exhaling of air from the lungs during the free assent because the escapee had to breath pressurized air prior to the escape attempt. This procedure used to be another test administered to submarine candidates as part of training to become a sub crew member. However, it was discontinued in the '70s as being a bit out of touch with the reality that very few subs would be sinking in water shallow enough to attempt an unaided escape. The record for a "Bow and GO" is around 266 feet if I remember correctly. 2. It is more correct to think of the process of diving or surfacing a sub as changing its' density. "Blowing tanks" is done at a relatively shallow depth (< 500 feet), otherwise the external sea-pressure is too great for the compressed air to expand enough to displace the seawater in the MBTs. The total volume of the MBTs on a fleetsubmarine was roughly 13,500 cu. ft. Submarines will "drive" up to a reasonable depth before they release the high-pressure air into the MBTs. Fleetsubmarines MBT blow systems used 600 psi air where nuclear sub MBT blow systems use 4500 psi air. Again, Boyle's Law enters into the issue here. The objective is to displace a volume of water large enough to create a positive buoyancy. There is not enough high-pressure air to completely blow the MBTs dry. Nor does one want to completely empty the high-pressure air banks during a single surfacing. The least amount of hp air is used as it takes too long (hours) to re-charge the high-pressure air banks. Once the submarine is on the surface a second air system is brought on line. It is a high-volume, low-pressure 10 psi system which is run for several minutes (10-20) to complete blowing the MBTs dry. (The San Francisco limped back to Guam continuously running it Low-pressure Blower system to overcome her damaged MBTs from taking on water again.) 3. Submarines have not had flood valves (Kingston valves) on their MBTs since early in WWII. There is no need for a valve at the bottom of the MBT and removing them removed one more thing that could fail. The MBTs have permanent holes or flood-ports at the bottom. As I have explained before, the MBTs are either completely full or completely empty and are "Free-flooding". Furthermore, you do NOT want to isolate their interior from the external sea-pressure or the MBTs would collapse. Depth charge attacks would create a problem also if the MBTs were sealed as they would not be able to equalize during the pressure impulse.It's obvious that if the tank is full of seawater having it open at the bottom is not a problem. The tank is filled with seawater by opening the vent valves at the top of the MBTs and allowing the air inside to vent out as the seawater displaces it. The vent valves could remain open while the submarine is submerged but are shut to insure that the MBTs are ready to hold air when the submarine needs to surface. When the submarine is on the surface the vent valves are kept shut and the MBTs are full of air. The air trapped in the MBTs prevents the seawater from entering the tanks through the open flood-ports at the bottom. Variable Ballast tanks and Special Ballast tanks do have valves that control the entry of seawater at the bottom because they are designed to be partially filled. Just as a side note, the word "closed" is never allowed to be used on a submarine. It sounds too much like "blows" and could be miss-interpreted. "Shut" is the only word used. Compressed air is not 'pumped' into the diving tanks to bring the sub to a neutral buoyancy. Neutral buoyancy is achieved by using the "Trim and Drain" system to move water into or out of the Variable and Special Ballast tanks. A good reference to look at is the "The Fleet Type Submarine, Navpers 16160," which is on-line at http//www.maritime.org/fleetsub/index.htm This is the training manual that was used to instruct submarine crew candidates on how a WWII type fleetsubmarine works. This manual explains in detail the various systems and construction of a fleetsubmarine and how they are operated. Nuclear submarines obviously operate on the same principle but have been implemented differently. Rick Nelson "Damn the Pressure, Six-Zero feet!" "Boomers Hide With Pride" ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From Brooks Rowlett Subject ARTHUR W RADFORD kit At my local hobby shop tonight I found as a new arrival the Dragon kit of the ARTHUR W. RADFORD, the SPRUANCE class destroyer with the experimental enclosed after mast. Brooks ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From Mike Bartel Subject IHP 2005 Kit schedule IMPERIAL HOBBY PRODUCTIONS is producing the following new 1700 kits in 2005 SMS 'Ersatz Yorck' 1915 KM Projekt Leichte Kreuzer M 1938 KM Projekt Panzer Kreuzer P 1938 MNF Lyon BB 1913 MNF Joffre CV 1940 USN 'Tillman Design IV-2 Ultimate Dreadnought MNF Gascogne BB (Richelieu Class) 1940 Patternwork is complete for all models and delivery will begin on the first few kits shortly. All models will feature turned-brass gun barrels and some will feature photoetch parts where appropriate. The Tillman BB will be produced in a one-time run of 30 kits and will never be produced again regardless of demand. Check the IHP website for these and other cancelled ship models and take a look at our new selection of turned-brass gun barrels for your other projects. If you have not done so, reserve all models now at your IHP dealer. More new subjects are in the works and will be announced as they are ready to go into production. Mike Bartel IHP http//ihphobby.tripod.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Reviews, Articles, Backissues, Member's models & Reference Pictures at http//smmlonline.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume