Subject: SMML VOL 2872 Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2005 04:38:56 +1000 The Ship Modelling Mailing List (SMML) is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http//sandlehobbies.com For infomation on how to Post to SMML and Unsubscribe from SMML http//smmlonline.com/aboutsmml/rules.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1 Re One-handed modelling 2 Re One-handed modelling 3 One handed modeling 4 Chant class tankers 5 Welcome to Tall Ships Tacoma! 6 Re HMAS Voyager, Vampire & Vendetta 7 RAN Darings 8 HMAS Voyager, Vampire & Vendetta 9 RAN Daring Class Destroyers 10 Re DARING 11 Re HMAS Voyager, Vampire & Vendetta 12 Re PAPER SHIPWRIGHT MODELS - HELP 13 Hasegawa Mikasa 14 Re One handed modeling 15 Warship Magazine ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From "Les Pickstock" Subject Re One-handed modelling Saddlers use a device with 2 jaws, one fixed and one moving, that operates with the foot. to hold stuff while they stitch it. If you had two pins that rose and fell through the work bench operated by a treadle, as has been suggested you could have a threaded hole in each pin so you could either screw a ruler or stright edge between the two for long cuts and also have a selection of radiused plates that could also be screwed to a pin to allow you cut around them. I could draw something quickly and post it to the SMML homepage if thats alright with the bosses. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From "Tom Detweiler" Subject Re One-handed modelling >> Now can SMML members help me? The problem is holding the ruler, card and knife with only the use of one hand (my left, I was right handed). I need the ideas team of SMML to see want they can come up with. << Gary Mansfield-- I appreciate your dilemma. I don't have any special expertise-- I know it's out there in this group and they won't dissapoint. I remember one of my elderly Mennonite relatives who'd had a stroke continuing to do his wood painting hobbies with the aid of a mouth stick-- he used this special wooden "third hand" to push down and hold things while he worked on it with his "good" hand. It was an old fashioned, but effective way of doing things, but it worked for him. That's all I remember but I hope it helps. Tom in Grass Valley ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From Raven0222@aol.com Subject One handed modeling We use an old matt cutter from a frame shop. This small unit has the cutter on a rail that slides. We put cork under the cutter and use press pins to hold the card stock in place. Slide the cutter and there ya go a perfect one handed cut. There are many models and a simple modification could yield what you wish. Fair winds Christian Raven ShipModelMasters.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From "David Hathaway" Subject Chant class tankers People I am looking for a source of scale plans/drawings for the small Royal Navy CHANT (CHAnnel Navy Tanker) class coastal tankers built during WWII for use in the Normandy landings. Pre-fabricated, hard chine and ugly! Most survived to be sold into civilan service after the war - though a couple turned turtle due to stability problems and some were wrecked. The obvious source (National Maritime Museum in Grenwich) is also the most expensive and I am looking for an alternate source before considering whether to go there. There is a good model of one in the shipping gallery of the Science Museum in London - I intend to photograph it next time I am in the "big smoke" - and can offer the photos as (part of) a swap. David Hathaway ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From JRKutina@webtv.net (John Kutina) Subject Welcome to Tall Ships Tacoma! http//www.tallshipstacoma.com/index02.html Tacoma, Wa. July 4th Celebration Regards, John Kutina ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From Reynold.Oh@defence.gov.au Subject Re HMAS Voyager, Vampire & Vendetta G'day Dave G, Ref your search for models of RAN mid-50's destroyers. Try Ozmods Sclae Models (look under 'O' in scalemodelindex.com). They have resin kits of HMAS Vampire in 350 & 700, HMAS Vendetta in 700, HMAS Duchess in 600 and HMAS Voyager in 600. Dragon (I believe) did a model of HMAS Brisbane in (I believe) 700. Please note that I am only another customer of OzMods (I've bought a kit of HMAS Voyager) and Dragon, not a shareholder or partner. George, out..... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From "roger pearson" Subject RAN Darings Hello Dave G, The following RAN Daring class Destroyers are produced by Ozmods Scale Models, here in Australia -- HMA Ships Vampire and Vendetta in 1700 scale, HMAS Vampire in 1350 scale and HMA Ships Voyager and Duchess in 1600 scale. Cheers, Roger ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From JOHN RULE Subject HMAS Voyager, Vampire & Vendetta Regarding request for kit of above ships, try Ozmods available through Sandle Hobbies, sponsors of this web page. John Rule ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From "Brett Soden" Subject RAN Daring Class Destroyers Dave, you can obtain models of the 4 RAN Daring Class Destroyers from OzModels, they have them in waterline 1700, 1600 respectively and a full hull version in 1350 scale, all made from ressin. The can be purchased through Sandle Hobbies at www.sandlehobbies.com for 1700/600 at about $38.50 and the 1350 at about $143.00 I hope that is of some help. Brett ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From GORDONBUT@aol.com Subject Re DARING This kit is produced by Deans Marine in the UK. It is 1/96 scale. I dont think there was much difference between the Australian and British version. Gordon Buttress ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 11) From brownatfareham@surefish.co.uk Subject Re HMAS Voyager, Vampire & Vendetta Try OZMODS Models of Australia. They have resin models at 1700, 1600 and 1350 scale. The 1700 and 1350 scale models are good but the 1600 models are not so good, really just copies of the earlier Airfix kits. Regards Les Brown ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 12) From Mike Potter Subject Re PAPER SHIPWRIGHT MODELS - HELP Gary, I salute your courage in living an active life despite a condition that would depress many. http//www.micromark.com/ item number 83137 is a PE bending jig that looks like it could be set up and operated with one hand. Item 83138 is a set of longer blades for it. Together it appears these could fold paper model parts with creases up to 6.5" long. From the photo it appears also to support folding pieces with creases in more than one spatial dimension. I personally do not own one so cannot vouch for it. But it looks promising. Cheers, Mike Potter San Diego, Calif., USA ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13) From chris Tilley Subject Hasegawa Mikasa With the release of the new Hasegawa 1/350 Mikasa, I thought I'd run off a 'quick' 'in-box' review. I should also say, this is the fifth Mikasa I've got, including the Navwar wargaming piece, the JSC card kit (1/400 and blown-up to 1/250) and the Seals 1/700. Does that make it my favourite ship, or is it just the pre-dreadnought thang? What I have is the initial production version with anniversary extras. The slip case has some photos of a well constructed model on the back, which makes a nice change from some manufacturers. The photos also show what appears to be a custom-sized display box, which may be the mysterious fourth bonus item noted on the side of the slipcase as a send-away for the Japan-only market (I can't read Japanese to tell). The other bonus items are a 54mm model of Admiral Baron Togo, which has been previously available with a recent special edition of the Seals Mikasa; a print of Shotaro Tojo's 'Bridge of the Mikasa' painting, on which the Togo figure is based; and a silver or gold commemorative medal. The box itself has another fine Koike Shigero painting which even shows some details not actually in the kit (e.g. the fold-down doors for the 6-inch casemates) and is just right for super-detailing reference. The big box itself is full, which is always good to see. There are fifteen sprues, eight of them in multiples for the smaller parts, in grey plastic in three separate bags. A fourth smaller bag contains a sheet of transfers for the base, a sheet of ensigns and standards on self-adhesive paper and, best of all, a length of fine chain for the anchor cables. What I think is missing though is a length of monofilament, or similar, for rigging (like Williams Bros. used to put in their aircraft kits). I don't doubt someone will be producing a photo-etch set for railings and companionway replacements before long. The mouldings are, as to be expected, crisp and with a great deal of detail in each piece. In my opinion, in some cases there is too much, of which more in a moment. The main hull is complete, in two halves. I would have preferred a separate lower hull, as I was intending to do her as she is on display in Yokosuka (including blue-plastic tarpaulins, welding gear and air-conditioners, as when I visited her last September!), so waterlining will need careful use of a saw. The six-inch casemate doors are moulded open and are a little chunky in some cases, which is a pity. The hull strakes seem over-large too, but as I've yet to see a picture of Mikasa out of the water, I'm not really in a position to say. The boat stands could be replaced and, of course, the solid companionways. These are down to the limitations of the plastic moulding process, as likewise, is the overscale deck-planking, which, if done to accurate size, would probably not show up at all! The instructions are straightforward and comprehensive, as well as actually showing where things go on the model. Other manufacturers take note. The instructions also advise painting each stage as you go, which may not be a bad idea, but, as they say 'flavour to taste'. I'm glad to say the sheets also have rigging instruction plans. Apart from that, she does look rather splendid, with plenty of scope for extra detailing. I'm not sure if I'll be drilling out all the portholes though! I think this is Hasegawa's first exercise into the 'true big ship' scale, previous efforts for them being in 1/450. All praise too them, despite my, admittedly, minor criticisms. For those of you interested, I got mine direct from HLJ.com. Now, let's look for some photo-etch two-bar rails and companionways. Hmm, figures too, I think... ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 14) From Fritz Koopman Subject Re One handed modeling Hi Gary A friend of mine is in the same predicament, however she does framing (and matting). Her solution was to buy a good quality, heavy, Stainless Steel straigt edge (1yard long, 2 inches wide, and about 3/32" thick with one beveled working edge). She then bought a 1/4" steel plate, about a meter square, that would fit on her work bench. A local machine shop bore three allignment holes, and three screw holes through both the plate and the straight edge such that the straight edge was lined up along one side. The alignment holes on the plate were set with a metal dowel slightly longer than the plate and edge together. Like-wise the screw holes had threaded rod tapped into the plate side of things so that a wing nut could be used to tighten the straight edge to the base plate. Imagine if you would a giant, 1 meter, hold and fold tool (like we use for photo-etch), and thats basicaly what she built about twenty years ago. This, I believe would be perfect for some of your larger parts, if you work in the 1/250th scale. As for smaller parts or scales, it may actually be of interest to you to look into investing in the 8", or even the 4" hold-and fold tools. Where their clamp can be rotated, you would wind up with an 8" straight edge to cut and score against, and on the side with gaps, you would have a usefull tool for holding the smaller parts in place for one handed folding. Just be sure you get the real-mcoy (aluminum), and not the cheap knock-offs. As I've discovered with my photo-etch, the plastic fakes just can't clamp down hard and hold the parts as tightly. Hope this helps Best wishes Fritz K ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 15) From Roger Antrobus Subject Warship Magazine Can anyone please help me locate Warship Magazine numbers 9, 10, 11 and 12 - these are the issues that cover the KGV class battleship in some detail. Roger A ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Reviews, Articles, Backissues, Member's models & Reference Pictures at http//smmlonline.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume