Subject: SMML VOL 2893 Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2005 02:25:13 +1000 The Ship Modelling Mailing List (SMML) is proudly sponsored by SANDLE http//sandlehobbies.com For infomation on how to Post to SMML and Unsubscribe from SMML http//smmlonline.com/aboutsmml/rules.html ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS INDEX 1 Weld seams 2 Re Various 3 m.s. Seven seas 4 Revell LIONFISH WELDS 5 Re Simulating welds 6 Re Warrior Queen 7 Re Lionfish 8 Re Revell's USS Lionfish 9 Schleswig-Holstein Und Schlesien 10 Re Results of NATS -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD INDEX 1 FS Books 2 1/700 USS Blue Ridge & Mt. Whitney - - - In stock now ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- MODELLERS ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From "Jill Ferreira" Subject Weld seams Hi, There are a couple of ways to go on the weld seams. The first is photo etched, Royal Models makes a sheet of weld seams for 1/35 scale. I have not seen them so, I am not sure if they would be over scale or not for your subs. They are available from VLS. The second method would be to put them on with thick paint or white glue with a small brush or knife tip. Lastly, you might try stretched sprue and melt it to the hull with liquid glue roughen up the bead line. I would try the paint or white glue first, because it is cheap and can be removed with water or thinner without hurting the kit. Good luck, Bob ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From "Gary Mansfield" Subject Re Various For John Fraser, Brian Taylor, "Battlecruisers" book by John Roberts and Shinano Aircraft carrier 1. John, Wow, look at that model, does somebody sail her? The builder must be very good. I have seen the book you mentioned on the French Amazon site; Buying some books from the Amazon French site (just like UK site) and some books and magazines from Jacques of www.L'Arsenal.com his modelling site is very good (just like WEM and he is very helpful; just like WEM!)! Oh why cannot publishers re-publish?!! 2. Brian, I have all those books you mention, that is what interested me in these early French Ironclads, and I have found out a loads more searching the internet. 3. Paul, You can buy this book (and all the others mentioned in the vol 2891) from www.navybooks.com (they publish the magazine "Warship World") check the prices in the "bargain books" section; the prices shown include postage free in UK. Thank you all for your help and advice! 4. Regarding IJN Shinano, could not Janusz Skulski publish an "Anatomy of the Ship - The Aircraft Carrier Shinano"? There seems to be loads of information out there, it just needs all putting in one book! He did write the same on Yamato and Shinano was to be the third Battleship converted while on the stocks to an Aircraft carrier after the losses at Midway. We will all wait for the JSC 1400 Card model to come out! 5. PC Coker, can I have more details of the "Duilio" photographs please? (Your e-mail address would not open, thank you). GARY MANSFIELD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 3) From "Terry & Ann Veenendaal" Subject m.s. Seven seas Hi My name is Terry Veenendaal. I live near Calgary AB. I came to Canada at age 18 in 1956. I would like to make a model of the ship I traveled to Canada on, the Seven Seas. I have a few Photos but these are not enough detail to make a model of the ship. I am a scratch builder of tall ships. An immigrant ship would be a nice change. Can any one help? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 4) From beyondsun@mindspring.com Subject Revell LIONFISH WELDS Hi Nick, At the scale of your Revell fleet boats, you can spraypaint indications of plating/weld seams to great effect. I use regular painter's masking tape, and spray a coat (or two), to about the thickness of the tape itself. I've gotten great results by simply alternating patches of tape to indicate plating; one raised, the next not. However at the level of detail you appear to be aiming for, you could mask every plate right up to the weld seams. Use a gray which matches the kit plastic as closely as possible. Afterwards, if the seams look too "square", you could soften them by degrees with brushed-on thinner, until they look just right to you. Hope this helps - and if you go this route send me some pics to show how you did! Cheers, Matty ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 5) From Randy Ward Subject Re Simulating welds SMML wrote >> My only remaining problem seems to be How do I reproduce the weld seams in the pressure hull and supestructure? Since the detail level on a sub is somewhat low, I think that the seams should be visible. The ones on the kit are overdone, and in any case will be sanded off in the constuction phase. Does anyone have a suggestion? Thanks! << Nick, back in SMML 2502, Tim Perry suggested simulating welds by using an adjustable ruling pen and unthinned acrylic paint. When dry, the paint leaves just the hint of a raised line. He also talked of scribing a line, then dry-brushing over it. For realism, keep the line subtle. You may be able to fine this issue in the archives. Cap'n Randy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6) From Randy Ward Subject Re Warrior Queen >> I have just finished the model of the Queen Mary in her troopship colors and configuration. Some of you may recall that I asked for information re the Queen Mary on this list and the response was very good. I now know the purpose of a degaussing cable! I am sure my Aunt will treasure the model. Some of you contacted me directly with info and photos. I thank you. If you contact me again I will gladly send you a photo or two of the finished model. << Dave, if you could send photos to the Debris Field site (http//debrisfield.russellwild.co.uk/ ), I'm sure you would find may admirers. We do merchant ships, including war-time liners. Cap'n Randy ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 7) From Ives100@aol.com Subject Re Lionfish Sounds as if you have everything you need. Would love to hear more about your limber hole custom photo etch set. One way to reproduce the weld beads is to use very fine "invisible mending thread", stretched over the hull in the areas needed and held in place by very tiny amounts of cyanoacrylate applied with a wire. One item you didn't mention is how you are going to modify the lower bow for the USS Tench model. Tom Dougherty ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 8) From "Rick Nelson" Subject Re Revell's USS Lionfish Hi, I'm curious about the item you mentioned in your RFI, >> I've got a custom photo-etch brass detail set to replace the limber holes in the superstructure above the pressure hull. << How do you "replace" holes? I've served aboard diesel boats and have built several Lionfish and other than removing the material where the limber hole should be I don't know how one would "replace" them with PE. Please let me know. Thanks, Rick Nelson "Damn the Pressure, Six-Zero feet!" "Boomers Hide With Pride" ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 9) From "Marvin Reichman" Subject Schleswig-Holstein Und Schlesien Since the Schleswig was involved in the first naval action of WW2 I thought I might find some information on this ship on the internet. I have not been able to find a thing. Does anyone know of any sites I can visit that might give me photos,specs etc. Thanks for your help ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 10) From BRADFORD CHAUCER Subject Re Results of NATS Well I guess I can be the first to report that Gary Kingzett took both best ship and best Scratchbuilt at the Nats. One more well deserved kudos. The rest of the results will have to wait. They were going to announce the awards with a computer presentation, and you guessed it, they had computer problems. The awards were distributed by being placed at each winning entry, but there is no compilation available. It will be posted on the NATS website in a few days. So unless someone did a better job of running around and noting winners, we will all have to wait. Regards, Bradford Chaucer ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- TRADERS, ANNOUNCEMENTS & NOTICEBOARD ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1) From Derek Frost Subject FS Books F/S. Postage is extra. BATTLECRUISERS. By J. Roberts. 2003 ed. A separate set of large-scale plans for model makers of the battle cruiser HMS Queen Mary 1913. Hc. 128 pp. NEW. $20.00US DESTROYERS OF THE SOKOL CLASS. 2004. Russian review on these early Russian Navy torpedo boats from about 1894 to the early 1920’s. Prof. Ill. with rare contemporary b/w photos plus a centre-fold with top & side view scale drawings plus a cut-a-way side view. b/w scale drawings plus the rear cover contains full color side profiles. Sc. 32 pp. Russian text. New $8.00US MENDEZ NUNEZ SPANISH LIGHT CRUISERS. 2003. Review published in Russia on this class of Spanish Navy cruisers. Prof. Ill. with rare contemporary b/w photos plus a centre-fold with multi-view scale plans for the ship in 1938. b/w scale drawings. The back cover has full color side view ship profiles. Sc. 32 pp. NEW. Russian text. $8.00 ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- 2) From "shaya novak" Subject 1/700 USS Blue Ridge & Mt. Whitney - - - In stock now Brand new from Trumpeter Command and Control ships for the US Navy Amphibious Forces. Each kit over 175 parts waterline or full hull. http//www.totalnavy.com/700blueridge.htm The Captain at - Totalnavy.com www.totalnavy.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- Check out the SMML site for the List Rules, Reviews, Articles, Backissues, Member's models & Reference Pictures at http//smmlonline.com ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- End of Volume