Tools: although everyone has their favourites I find one tool in particular
is indispensible: the dentist's probe. Yes, it's the one you all love to hate
but in modelling it aint 'arf' useful. As a glue applicator, hole punch, priser,
scriber.....
Always use two type of Cyano. Thick and thin - applied with the tool above.
Also keep some water based impact adhesive like Evostick Impact2 handy for
applying railings.
Always use an Exacto no. 11 and 17 for etch brass and cut your etch brass
on a small slab of shatterproof 6mm glass preferably frosted or sand etched.
When preparing the seascape for your ship model always use the hull of the
ship prior to any building, placing it on the seascape in the desired position
and angle so you can draw around it at water line in order to cut out and
prepare the sea. Once the sea round the hull is virtually complete, then begin
building the model.
A pair of dividers is an invaluable tool for getting your railings and rigging
the right length. No measuring with rulers and the like is necessary, just
measure the gap or span required and cut the railings or rigging wire to that
length.
If you are doing WWII R.N., R.A.N. or R.N.Z.N. then you do need to get hold
of a set of paint mixes and try them out. Remeber a 1/700 scale model of a
ship is typically viewed from a scale quarter of mile away so the colours
will need to be toned down or faded in order to look 'right'. Similarly, the
depth of colour will depaend on whether the ship had been at sea for a long
time or just out of a refit. Only your research will get it right. As a general
rule, small ships like corvettes seldom got painted so they tended to look
more scruffy than bigger ships.
I always apply the railings like this: having measured, cut and bent the
railing I apply a thin 'run' of impact adhesive along the deck where the railing
is to go then to the underside of the piece of railing. Let them both dry.
In a very short time they are ready to bring together. There is a firm bond
but with a degree of flexibility.
Rigging: I use a combination of 0.008. and 0.006. brass rodding (purchased
mail order from a model railroad shop the U.S.A.), 0.004. wire (using multi-strand
0.1mm circuit wire, I burn off the insulation, cut it into suitably short
lengths, unstrand it (about 8 wires to a core), roll it under a metal rule
on a hard smooth surface to straighten it, measure with dividers the section
I require and Bingo! - it's easy to cut, handle, glue and looks excellent).
For aerial wires I use the tried and tested 0.002. Dai Riki fishing trace
which handles easily and looks just right.
Weathering: I always use children's water colour paints - you know the ones
in those flat tins with at least ten colours. Use orange, black and green
in combination to produce any number of weathering effects.
Brushes: I always use a new 00000 brush with each model but when I finish
I never throw them away. Cut them down to stumpy ends and apply your weathered
areas of paint with that. Sort of 'ponce' it on and twist is the best description.